Just bought a vintage Rossin frame on a whim - help me build it!
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Just bought a vintage Rossin frame on a whim - help me build it!
Newb alert! Hey guys. I haven't thus far built my own bike from the ground up. I can do the basic maintenance stuff but I have no idea where to start when building from scratch.
I bought a vintage Rossin Ghibli frame on a whim because I've always loved the late 80s over-the-top Italian flair. It's a 57 c-c, and I already have a seatpost, handlebar/stem, brakes, brake levers, and some 7 speed shifters. However, I have a few questions.
First of all, how do I know how many gears the bike is meant to have? And let's say it only is supposed to accomodate a 6 gear freewheel, can I still use my 7 speed shifters without hitch?
The only other real thing I'm wondering about is the crankset, and if there's some relatively standard length/gear combo I should stick on there to be safe with. I ride in areas with a pretty equal mix of flat and hilly terrain.
Thanks for any help you can give, I'm sure I'll have more questions as I make progress. I'm learning but I'm a quick learner (usually)!
I bought a vintage Rossin Ghibli frame on a whim because I've always loved the late 80s over-the-top Italian flair. It's a 57 c-c, and I already have a seatpost, handlebar/stem, brakes, brake levers, and some 7 speed shifters. However, I have a few questions.
First of all, how do I know how many gears the bike is meant to have? And let's say it only is supposed to accomodate a 6 gear freewheel, can I still use my 7 speed shifters without hitch?
The only other real thing I'm wondering about is the crankset, and if there's some relatively standard length/gear combo I should stick on there to be safe with. I ride in areas with a pretty equal mix of flat and hilly terrain.
Thanks for any help you can give, I'm sure I'll have more questions as I make progress. I'm learning but I'm a quick learner (usually)!
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Most of would give a body part a Rossin Ghibli. Since you seem to have lucked out and were able to buy one on a whim you'll get no help from us!!
On a more serious note CONGRATS!! great frame. It will most likey easily handle a 6 or 7 spd hub. Measure the inside spacing of the dropouts it should eb around 126mm and that will do either.
As for the cranks bottom bracket (BB) that is actually realitively simple. since say '85 most all bikes had either a Italian or English threaded BB shell, and you Rossin in undoubtedly Italian 26x34 threading. what you need to do is find the crank sent you want to use say a 1995 Campagnolo Record. you need a 1995 Campagnolo Record BB in Itaslian threading.
when this frame was born the 'standard' was typically 170mm crank lenght and 42/53T chainrings but 39 inner rings were catching one. Some taller riders or riders like me who don't spin well like slightly longer 172.5. I would suggest asking at roadies at the local shop what they ride and go from there. If most of the guys are running 39/53 and 11-25s in the rear go with the 39/53 front but consider a 12-28 in the rear to give you a lower gear than the inshape guys ride.
OH we have a little saying here in C&V.... "Pics or it didn't happen" One last thing where do you live? we live in the oddest places so maybe someone nearby can comment more on gearing and may volunteer to help the build.
On a more serious note CONGRATS!! great frame. It will most likey easily handle a 6 or 7 spd hub. Measure the inside spacing of the dropouts it should eb around 126mm and that will do either.
As for the cranks bottom bracket (BB) that is actually realitively simple. since say '85 most all bikes had either a Italian or English threaded BB shell, and you Rossin in undoubtedly Italian 26x34 threading. what you need to do is find the crank sent you want to use say a 1995 Campagnolo Record. you need a 1995 Campagnolo Record BB in Itaslian threading.
when this frame was born the 'standard' was typically 170mm crank lenght and 42/53T chainrings but 39 inner rings were catching one. Some taller riders or riders like me who don't spin well like slightly longer 172.5. I would suggest asking at roadies at the local shop what they ride and go from there. If most of the guys are running 39/53 and 11-25s in the rear go with the 39/53 front but consider a 12-28 in the rear to give you a lower gear than the inshape guys ride.
OH we have a little saying here in C&V.... "Pics or it didn't happen" One last thing where do you live? we live in the oddest places so maybe someone nearby can comment more on gearing and may volunteer to help the build.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Last edited by Bianchigirll; 09-18-12 at 10:32 AM.
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What is the distance between the rear dropouts? The 1980s were a period of flux in cluster sizes. At the beginning of that decade 120mm (5-speed) spacing was still common, but higher end frames in particular might have 126mm (6-speed) spacing. By the end of the decade, 130mm (7+ speed) or wider spacing was common.
Are you talking friction shifting or indexed shifting? Friction shifting = "no worries." Indexed shifting might work, provided the derailleurs and freewheel are from the same general time period and manufacturer.
170mm arms are a good place to start unless you have particularly long or short legs. Adjust longer or shorter as indicated. 52/42 or 53/42 chain rings were standard for race/sport type bikes, although there's no compelling reason why you can't change from that. I find I never use the higher gears when I have a 52 or 53 tooth large ring, so most of my bikes have 46-50 tooth large rings, and smaller (36-40T) small rings. How small you can go depends on what crank you choose.
And let's say it only is supposed to accomodate a 6 gear freewheel, can I still use my 7 speed shifters without hitch?
The only other real thing I'm wondering about is the crankset, and if there's some relatively standard length/gear combo I should stick on there to be safe with. I ride in areas with a pretty equal mix of flat and hilly terrain.
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Thanks guys! The shifters I have are NOS Campagnolo Synchro II 7-speeds. From what I understand, the Synchro shifters are pretty finicky from the beginning so if it turns out I need to go down to 6 for the frame I'm sure I could sell them and swap. I'll measure the dropouts tonight.
Here's a pic, it did happen!
Here's a pic, it did happen!
Last edited by Streetwaves; 09-15-12 at 04:21 PM.
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Deltas too? OY!
"Onion Bag" paint, lots of chrome that is a real beauty!
"Onion Bag" paint, lots of chrome that is a real beauty!
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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OH BTW if you don't already know it you need a 3.5mm allen wrench. don't fool around go to sears and buy 4 Craftsman or if the SnapOn or MAC guy is around buy from them. get good wrenches and the second you think the edges are rounding a bit use a new wrench.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Last edited by Bianchigirll; 09-15-12 at 05:07 PM.
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Must be NOS or very close to it. I see no scratches, even on the white painted FD tab!
Full C-Record/Delta build then??
Start your search for a 3.5 mm allen wench then.....
Please keep us posted on your build on this thread!
Chombi
Full C-Record/Delta build then??
Start your search for a 3.5 mm allen wench then.....
Please keep us posted on your build on this thread!
Chombi
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Haha, thanks guys. As far as the frame goes, it has been used but it looks like very lightly. There are only a couple of areas with paint chips, but they're hardly noticeable. The paint still shines like new.
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Thanks guys! The shifters I have are NOS Campagnolo Synchro II 7-speeds. From what I understand, the Synchro shifters are pretty finicky from the beginning so if it turns out I need to go down to 6 for the frame I'm sure I could sell them and swap. I'll measure the dropouts tonight.
Here's a pic, it did happen!
Here's a pic, it did happen!
Well, good to see another Campaholic among us !!
Really sweet ride, cant wait to see it built, congrats !
Joe
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You are lucky, the 3.5mm allen wrench is the Delta's cable anchor bolt. Something special about cutting the cable length too. I've never owned them, but Bianchigirl or other mechanics might know more. chris
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The cable runs straight down the middle of the brake body and need to be cut flush on the inside of the body, so it doesn't stick out. As you may have noticed these can be raised and lowered a bit but don't put them too close to the tire. If they are too close and anything happens like you run over a nail or pop a spoke it can cause problems. A nail getting caught between the tire and caliper and really tear up the tire before you stop and it could bind with a broken spoke.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Nice bike! The Italians sure know how to build nice frames... ok I am a little biased.
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Also here is a fun and rather campy CampI site. https://www.campyonly.com/tipstrivia.html
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Thanks BG. I had a back wheel jam with wet leaves. 28MM tire on a 23MM bike. It dosen't take much to stop you. Chris
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Sweet frame!! Love the delta's. I have them on an early Barkley Softride and everyone I've ever talked to says they hate them! Are they generally loved around here? People have told me they don't have much stopping power, but mine seem to stop just fine! Anyways, looking forward to seeing it built up!!
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I agree with Bianchigirll about the gearing. I can speak from experience: a newb tendency towards racing machines is to over-gear and thereafter become discouraged. The ground is heaving with new Shimano 14-28T freewheels that go well with 42/52T. And if you are running 39/53T a new SunRace ?-26T is a choice. Matching the BB to the specific Campy crank-set is vital to get a decent chain line — as I recently discovered.
A nice find and I look forward to following the build.
A nice find and I look forward to following the build.
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Hey guys. Here are the parts I have so far. Some were bought before when I had a different frame that I ended up selling.
Campagnolo C Record Delta brakes (excellent+)
Campagnolo C Record Brake levers (excellent+)
Campagnolo C Record Synchro 7II Shifters (NOS)
Campagnolo C Record era Chorus seat post (NOS)
Campagnolo SGR pedals (NOS)
3TTT Competizione Merckx Bars(NOS)
Dura Ace headset came on the frame
for fun, Ciclolinea Pelten Shade Blue to White
I'll measure the rear dropouts soon to see what I should be able to fit back there. More parts on the way, but I may put this together over a few months.
Campagnolo C Record Delta brakes (excellent+)
Campagnolo C Record Brake levers (excellent+)
Campagnolo C Record Synchro 7II Shifters (NOS)
Campagnolo C Record era Chorus seat post (NOS)
Campagnolo SGR pedals (NOS)
3TTT Competizione Merckx Bars(NOS)
Dura Ace headset came on the frame
for fun, Ciclolinea Pelten Shade Blue to White
I'll measure the rear dropouts soon to see what I should be able to fit back there. More parts on the way, but I may put this together over a few months.
Last edited by Streetwaves; 09-17-12 at 08:39 PM.
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I have a campy headset if you are looking to go all campy, polished or brushed finish.
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Beauty of a frame! Looking forward to seeing this one built up. The Pelten fade tape should look great on that frame.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
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Beauty of a frame! Looking forward to seeing this one built up. The Pelten fade tape should look great on that frame.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Beauty of a frame! Looking forward to seeing this one built up. The Pelten fade tape should look great on that frame.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
Re the shifters, I can't speak from experience, but the Campy synchros did not have a great reputation. It was Campy's first attempt to follow Shimano's indexing lead, and most people would not consider it a success. I wouldn't go out of my way to build a drivetrain around them. Is indexing important to you? If not, I'd suggest you consider using simplex retrofriction shifters, a common upgrade at the time. They can usually be found in decent shape on ebay for around $50 (+/- $10). You can thank me later.
But thanks! If they're absolute crap I'll definitely change that. But really friction mode is all I need.