Lewis_Moon

What's a good method/polish to take out paint on paint marks on a white frame? The Poprad will be here Friday...

RobbieTunes

If the original frame is clearcoated, I'd simply take a bit of rubbing compound and a rag, rub lightly until you see the paint come off. That's the abrasive method, and shouldn't hurt the clear, if you're careful. You'd be able to "feel" the mark through the rag. This will work even if there is no clear, but you'll have to be careful not to get into the underlying paint.

Chemical-wise, I've had success VERY carefully with mineral spirits, but bear in mind they can remove the clear and underlying paint as well. Which is why I'd stick with the abrasives. Any hard rubbing with a chemical is going to force it into underlying paint or clear.

Lewis_Moon

I'm thinking I'll do it in a multi step process. First, give it a good wash, then de-grease w/o rubbing, then with the rubbing compound.

JPZ66

Often times, even Polishing compound, and not the more aggressive rubbing compound is enough to take off paint marks, then buff to a high shine.

Joe

Lewis_Moon

Thanks for that clarification. I've always thought they were interchangable.

JPZ66

Yeah, it can be confusing as there are sooo many different formulas out there. Not to mention, forms...liquid, paste, gel, etc. Usually the finest grade is known as a 'swirl mark' remover or glaze....normally Rubbing compounds are the most coarse, then polishing, then glazes the finest. 3M products are worthwhile, and something I trust. Also, when it comes to buffing, different buffs are used, such as loose or sewn cotton, wool, foam pad, etc. Each plays a different role and will produce different results. One key with buffing - mainly with orbital type powered buffers, is to let the pad or buff do the work...no pressure from the user on the tool !

Anyhow, that is usually getting way too deep into things for bicycle, and they, due to nature and size, are normally buffed by hand anyway. With any product used, I suggest you test a spot on the inside of the stays to be sure you get the result you want, and that it does not affect the color, etc. I also suggest that many finishes are quite thin, so be careful around sharp edges, as it is possible to buff through to primer or metal ! For this application, I usually use soft cotton or a hand wool pad. Then, finish up with a quality wax and buff. If you have a nice bike, careful waxing and buffing will be a good benefit for helping preserve the finish.

And, I have been told that if the finish is nicely polished and buffed to a high shine, it will be faster ! (particularly if the bike in question is RED)

wrk101

+1 Turtle wax POLISHING compound, not the rubbing compound. I do use both, but 99% of the time, I use the polishing compound only. Rubbing compound is pretty aggressive, and if you are not careful, you will get to bare metal.

bigbossman 

Meguilar's Scratch-X seems to work well for me. Pretty gentle abrasive, and hard to go overboard with.

Old Yeller

I've used Simichrome with great results. Just a tiny little dab and a light touch does it.

frantik

i've used rubbing compound *very sparingly* on a rag to polish clear coat and remove paint and other marks, but thanks for the heads up on polishing compound..

JPZ66

Simichrome, Flitz, and there are a couple designed for polishing lexan ....names escape me at the moment...

BTW- even a good paste toothpaste works as a mild abrasive polish ! (your parts will smell minty fresh too)

Joe

roadrunner2012

Try WD-40 or Pledge and a rag first.

orangeology

my experience with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound to rub off a paintmark wasn't very successful.
don't think it's aggressively-abrasive enough... (or the mark was too thick?)
it's good for polishing, anyways. you might want to go with more abrasive stuff suggested above, IMO.

roadrunner2012

Now that I've looked at the pictures, and know the extent of the damage, I think you're gonna have to either replace the tube or PC