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Anybody make handmade headset tools ?
Thinking of making a set of headset tools. Has anyone made a set for themselves? Post pics, if you would.
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Picture these tools:
1-Long screwdriver, about medium heft. 2-Hammer 3-2 pieces of composite imitation wood. 4-Fiber welcome mat. That's all I've ever used, but I've probably only removed a half dozen and installed a half dozen or so. No more than 10, for sure. If I did it a lot, I'd get the proper tools. I'll stay tuned to see what the real wrenches use. |
I made one.
junk frame -pipe cutter and hacksaw took out a junk DT and two cross cuts, perfect for tapping out the press in races. putting in races- my vise is big enough for that, I just use a bit of masking tape on the jaws, rootboy check out the bikes are all the same thread... |
Hi,
I haven't removed or installed a headset, but I use a threaded rod with nuts and washers for pressing down the stem (thread less) on a bike that I run without a star nut and stem bolt. Here is where I got the idea. This link includes the removal tool as well. |
For installation of the cup/race into the headtube I use the threaded rod with fender washers (from Sheldon Brown?). [but have also used the hammer + scrap wood method]
For crown race installation I use a piece of Sch40 PVC, also banged on with a hammer + wood scrap. You can use an old race at the bottom of the pipe to aid installation if needed. Be sure you place the fork down on a nice surface before you smack the pipe - carpet, mat, etc., or you can scrape the fork ends (done that) For cup/race removal I use light tapping with a long punch all around the perimeter - but I really think the split pipe is the way to go. I'll probably buy one next go-around. Crown race removal - a punch or screwdriver can leave marks that are visible after reinstallation, so if you want it to look its best use a wooden block or dowel. This is an area I need a better solution sometimes. |
Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
(Post 14923240)
Picture these tools:
1-Long screwdriver, about medium heft. 2-Hammer 3-2 pieces of composite imitation wood. 4-Fiber welcome mat......... I use a long punch & a ball peen hammer. Firm hits all round the lip. To re-install, put a piece of hardwood on top and firmly tap it home. I've done it dozens of times. A set of headset tools would be nice, but really necessary. |
For race removal, a piece of electrical conduit slightly smaller in
diameter than the race interior diameter, split on one end into four tongues that expand out (use a hacksaw or similar). To get an idea what this ends up looking like: http://www.bti-usa.com/pictures/PK/PK6100.jpg For installation, the standard home made version is made from allthread, large fender washers, and nuts, all easily found at your average Home Depot. |
Threaded rod with large washers and nuts to install cup. Piece of pipe to install the crown race.
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres
(Post 14923454)
For installation of the cup/race into the headtube I use the threaded rod with fender washers (from Sheldon Brown?). [but have also used the hammer + scrap wood method]
For crown race installation I use a piece of Sch40 PVC, also banged on with a hammer + wood scrap. You can use an old race at the bottom of the pipe to aid installation if needed. Be sure you place the fork down on a nice surface before you smack the pipe - carpet, mat, etc., or you can scrape the fork ends (done that) For cup/race removal I use light tapping with a long punch all around the perimeter - but I really think the split pipe is the way to go. I'll probably buy one next go-around. Crown race removal - a punch or screwdriver can leave marks that are visible after reinstallation, so if you want it to look its best use a wooden block or dowel. This is an area I need a better solution sometimes. As to the second bolded section, I don't like the idea of banging on the fork ends, so I stick a chunk of 2 x 4 in a vise vertically, and let the fork straddle it with the blades hanging free. That way the force of blows is on the crown only. |
[QUOTE=3alarmer;14923662]For race removal, a piece of electrical conduit slightly smaller in
diameter than the race interior diameter, split on one end into four tongues that expand out (use a hacksaw or similar). To get an idea what this ends up looking like: http://www.bti-usa.com/pictures/PK/PK6100.jpg Yes- this is exactly what I made from an old down tube as mentioned above, then you can say it is re-cycled bike parts! |
:D http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8...c47f68b4_z.jpg Worked excellent, even on the CF LOOK. Just have to freeze the races, helps a lot. Ended up being $3.00 at Lowe's, minus the cost of the NPT sweat reducers. (Dad had them handy.) A lot better than $150.00 :P |
^ What are those bronze pieces above?
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Sweat on reducers, he says. Novel idea! Thanks. And thanks for all the suggestions so far, guys. I'm probably thinking these have to be more involved than they actually need to be. You know; inveterate tinkerer. I've got a big hunk of all thread with big nuts on it. Something like 3/4 diameter rod. Probably way over kill but with some nice big washers on it. Will probably use some nylon or something in between the big washers and the head set cups, to protect them.
I've never replaced a head set before, but that was only because 3 of my bikes have Nuovo Record head sets and the things don't seem too bad when I find them. The most recent one I found, however, has a touch of brinelling, which I'm not even sure is bad enough to warrant replacement. Or, is it more properly described as false brinelling? The Brinell effect might be fodder for a thread in itself. Seems to be the weak point in head set design, not that I know all that much about it. Anyway, I was sort of loath to start pounding on things with a punch/drift and hammer, but, I suppose it doesn't require anything more sophisticated than that, really. I figure I can make a split pipe cup remover easy enough. Maybe even a crown race remover. Thanks all. |
Originally Posted by KvltBryce
(Post 14923907)
:D Just have to freeze the races, helps a lot. |
Originally Posted by puchfinnland
(Post 14923323)
I made one.
putting in races- my vise is big enough for that, I just use a bit of masking tape on the jaws, rootboy check out the bikes are all the same thread... |
A pipe clamp would open plenty far enough, but as you know it will tend to pull to one side, so it's not really a good choice. I'd stick with the all-thread and washers.
Also, it may have been said already, or obvious, but put the cups in one at a time. |
allthread is a very good idea with big leather covered washers.
I think you know all about that material... |
Originally Posted by KvltBryce
(Post 14923907)
:D http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8...c47f68b4_z.jpg Worked excellent, even on the CF LOOK. Just have to freeze the races, helps a lot. Ended up being $3.00 at Lowe's, minus the cost of the NPT sweat reducers. (Dad had them handy.) A lot better than $150.00 :P I made this tool and while it was cheaper than a press, it still wasn't as cheap as a lot of the diy websites claimed it to be. All told, I think I was out about $35 including a short piece of pvc as a crown race setter. I believe the copper fittings must have shot up in price over the last couple years. I used the pvc method for setting the crown race. I would suggest just holding the fork in one hand and hammering with a mallet with the other, like park suggests using their crown race setter. |
Hmm, I clicked on this thread hoping to see some homemade wrenches for top races (particularly the ones with the scalloped facets) -- how do you work those? :o
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 14924257)
Hmm, I clicked on this thread hoping to see some homemade wrenches for top races (particularly the ones with the scalloped facets) -- how do you work those? :o
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Originally Posted by due ruote
(Post 14924205)
Also, it may have been said already, or obvious, but put the cups in one at a time.
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I've always used a hammer & drift to punch the cups out & a piece of hardwood to pound them in. Crown race can be problematic w/o a good tool?
Not mine, but one way to go... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...adsetPress.jpg |
same here, I use a brass drift to take the headset out.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Inst...bike/?ALLSTEPS |
Originally Posted by James1:17
(Post 14924237)
I made this tool and while it was cheaper than a press, it still wasn't as cheap as a lot of the diy websites claimed it to be. All told, I think I was out about $35 including a short piece of pvc as a crown race setter. I believe the copper fittings must have shot up in price over the last couple years.
I used the pvc method for setting the crown race. I would suggest just holding the fork in one hand and hammering with a mallet with the other, like park suggests using their crown race setter. http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/146...=41&zmap=14606 For setting the crown race, I don't hammer on the tool. Rather, I place it face up on the garage floor, insert the steering tube (fork upside down), and work the fork similar to a slide hammer. The race gets set more gently that way, and there is no risk of damage to the fork dropouts. |
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