flammenwurfer

I just picked up a Raleigh Sprite with an S5 hub. The bike itself looks like it has spent a lot of time sitting outdoors and I don't know that I want to build it up. I was thinking about using the hub to upgrade my Raleigh Sports though. Is it possible to pull the internals out of each and swap them so I don't have to disassemble and rebuild the wheel on my sports? Does everything come out easily in one basic assembly? Or will I have to take out multiple parts and make sure to reassemble them correctly?

rhm

Yes. It's easy.

First unscrew anything you can unscrew from the left side of the hub. Then don't unscrew any nuts, washers, etc. from the right side; go straight to the ball cup. They make a special tool for this but most people use a hammer and punch (cold chisel is especially good). Try not to put the punch through your thigh, it's painful.

flammenwurfer

I'm confused. Will the internals come out of the left side of the hub or the right side? What are you supposed to be punching?

rhm

Left side: a nut, a washer, a locknut, some more washers, a cone. The S5 also has a bell crank and a pusher rod, which come off first.

Right side, everything else, as one unit.

In this photo:

the ball cup is the black ring you see immediately on the right side of the right flange.

In this photo:

the guts are out of the hub. This is what you take out of the AW, and something very much like this (the five speed one looks a little different on the inside, but no worries) is what you put in its place.

gna

Watch this video up to about 2:45: https://youtu.be/ea6krXSs-lc
As rhm shows, you don't have to take anything off the right hand side. Just don't catch your hand on the cog when you hammer on the ball ring.
You can use your regular SA trigger for the right side of the hub, and you can use an SA trigger, or even a friction shifter, for the left side.

ronp6

GNA agree. I like using an SA triggeer pulling from 3rd to 2nd for the left so it doesn't slip out. They work great. I just put an S5 in a Raleigh Twenty in 451 wheels; very happy with it.

Chris_in_Miami

If your ball ring has the squared-off slots (rather than the rounded ones,) you can also use a modified channel lock instead of the hammer & punch:

gna

Oooh, I like that. Who modified it?

flammenwurfer

Thanks guys! That video I think will really help. I wasn't sure what I would be hammer and punching until I watched the video. Looks easy enough.

My left bellcrank is broken. The threaded portion that the cable would attach to is snapped off. I emailed Mark Stonich of Bikesmithdesign.com to see if he had that part and he suggested using a small spring attached with an aw barrel adjuster to the bell crank.

flammenwurfer

Chris_in_Miami: Would that also work for bb lockrings?

gna

Where are the pictures? C'mon, you know what we want!

PatrickZ

I have a friend in Lawrence that might be interested in your new Sprite, with or without the S5 hub. I added an S5 this past year to my 1972 Sprite 27 and love it.

flammenwurfer

Nice to see a fellow Kansan PatrickZ! I will probably be looking to get rid of the bike minus the s5 hub. It's not in very good shape and I have other projects that are further up my list. I'm in Topeka BTW. PM me with our friend's info if he is interested.

Dan Burkhart 

Not sure why they changed to scalloped notched as opposed to square. The square ones were much easier to get a good purchase on.
I find that a large brass punch works best for the scalloped notches as the tip will deform to the shape of the notch just enough to get a good hold.

rhm

If you're going to use a friction shifter for the left side, that spring is a really good idea. It keeps up a constant pressure pushing the rod into the hub. I like to have a standard trigger on the handlebar just in front of the brake lever, and a bar end shifter at the other end of the grip, so I can do all my shifting from the handlebar. I haven't tried using two triggers (one on each side of the handlbar, I guess?) but I'm sure that's a good system as well.

PatrickZ

I tried the spring with my friction shifter but never liked it. Perhaps the spring was a little too weak since the delay in the rod actuation caused much clunkier shifting than the direct method. I have a custom rod (trimmed nail) and was unsure if the Sturmey shifter would work, though I certainly like the symmetry of two Sturmey trigger shifters on the handlebar.

rhm

Yes, I know just what you mean about clunky shifting. The spring adds a certain disconnect. It's probably not quite measurable, but you feel it. It can mess up your timing.

gna

Very nice. Next time I'm in Lawrence I will look for a tall man riding a tall Raleigh.

Chris_in_Miami

I modified it with a hand file, it was quick and easy. I found the pliers on the side of the road during my commute one morning, and since I already had one like it in the garage, I was eager to sacrifice this one

Yes, that was actually the original goal, the ball ring was an afterthought.




I agree about the rounded notches, they look like they'd strip or wreck the spanner easily. I need to find another brass punch, they're very handy. I also have a few old oak drumsticks that I cut off square on the ends for lighter work.

PatrickZ

Thanks! By all means, let me know when you're coming to Lawrence. I enjoy talking about Raleighs and vintage 3 speeds.