'73 Schwinn SS
 

I have recently bought , by my standards a Mint SS
It is a '73 Orange 24"
I am not ready to sell the bike I have a lot of work to do before I even ride the bike, but I am interested in the value.
A lot of work means I am most likely going to strip the bike down,repack all bearings. clean paint and wax. clean and true wheels,new cables and housings, new tires and whatever else.

My main ? is doesn't a original paint with very little chips still have a better value than one that is restored, (powder coated and decald)?
Any feedback appreciated

I will present pics after I store them in PhotoBucket

I don't understand something. How can it be "mint" if you have to overhaul and clean it, plus put new tires and cables? Unless you only paid $25 for sounds to me like you got taken.

Once you complete all the work maybe $150 if you can find someone who wants it.

Understand
 

I guess you don't get the ?

Jesus man, stop typing with your teeth. Yes, don't repaint it if you don't have to. Original holds more value than a new finish. There is a bit of a judgement call here- it can't be TOO beat up.

I tend to hold fast to a policy where I let someone else permanently alter the appearance of a bike.

Original always = best value.

The value of a Schwinn Super Sport is relative to the market in which you live and the interest of potential buyers. For instance I have a '65 SS in Coppertone but no market, thus it is not worth much.

I understand your question. what I don't understand is.... How can you call a bike mint if you basically have to clean and overhaul and add new tires? I thought mint refered to a bike that was almost factory fresh and ready to ride. If you plan to sell the bike, shouldn't you have an idea of what you can sell it for before you buy it?

If it you paid $150 for this 'mint' bike and you put 10+ hours (say $8.00 hour for your labor) work into it thats $80. Then new tires, brake cables and bartape lets say $60 for all that. so now just to break even you need to sell it for.... $290 would you pay that for it in ready to ride away condition?

And just how far has it depreciated? Worth a drive yet? ;)

Top

Depending on the condition of the paint, decals, chrome and saddle, in original unrestored and unmodified condition it is probably worth between $100 to $250. Here are some original examples showing sold prices:

$113 http://www.ebay.com/itm/150925047505 Opaque Blue
$123 http://www.ebay.com/itm/190740334234 Sierra Brown, missing Brooks saddle
$200 http://www.ebay.com/itm/390483841062 Sunset Orange
$250 http://www.ebay.com/itm/160923375680 Kool Lemon
$250 http://www.ebay.com/itm/140872602871 Kool Lemon
$300 http://www.ebay.com/itm/380544303438 Burgundy

All of those except one are pretty much all original including the Brooks B15 saddle, without that (or if it is in poor condition) the value goes down. Color also has a big part in the value, Burgundy was a '71-only color and when in good condition it always sells for more than the others. Here is a good deal on an all original '71 Burgundy SS for $335 including shipping: http://www.schwinnbikeforum.com/index.php?topic=22058.0

I'd have to see good pictures to give a more accurate valuation.

EDIT: I see the pics now, without the Brooks saddle I'd say $175, with it $250.

Because I didn't know who I was talking to I didn't feel like telling you what I do with bikes.
OK i usually flip them. this bike tough is my size frame. I will most likely keep it for a daily rider.
My interpretation of a mint bike is something that I have to do very minimum work to.
If anyone out there buys a bike and doesn't have a clue as to the integrity of the bearings the bike may be marked as mint but the crank may not spin at all.
I can't believe that anyone can buy a used bike and not go through the components to ensure it's ride ability.
I have over the past 2 yrs 'Gone Through' 40 entire bikes to ensure their rideability.
It is a precaution.
Like I said the question was about new paint and old (in great shape). Pastorbob did give me the answer. Thanks for that.

Please be patient and wait for the pics of the bike . It knocks the socks off the burgundy.
But also I was only asking about the paint difference. Thanks

here are some course pics W/O the wheels on.
http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/...super%20sport/

There are specific ways to enrich a bikes age without changing the chrome or paint condition. I could detail any different techniques for metal, paint, chrome, aand aluminum if anyone is interested.

I will post pictures of this bike in a week or so and you will see a dramatic (new looking) difference.

Meh. $150 to $200 on a good day. Folks (mostly owners) over values these, as they made & sold, gajillions of them. I have had and sold 6 Super Sports. They are an ok townie type bike but needlessly heavy for a road bike. Your is worth less (in my mind) because it is the more "modern" version without forged drop outs. Get it up and running and enjoy it. Don't worry about the value, it would probably sell for a lot less than you think it would.

Since you are a flipper, you probably know that repainting a bike is a good way to burn through cash with no return. Sometimes, it lowers the value of the bike, and for that, you spend money and time.

Yea the bikes most always need tires that is the first chunk. I do try to only work with older Schwinn road bikes that way I have an inventory of parts.

I currently own a 1966, 1968, 1969, 1970 and 4 1973 SSs and a 1971 Sports Tourer. The most I have paid ever for one was the 1966 and that one is in the picture was $125 as you see it. Most ranged from free to $50. Roger

While you have that frame torn down I would drag it, or the fork to CVS or Rite Aid and look for some nailpolish. BTW be prepared you get some funny looks walking into CVS carrying a bike frame 'cross style.

I sold this '71 Super Sport in Sunset Orange for $225. BUT, it sat for months until that one buyer arrived who had owned one as a teenager, and wanted that bike again.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/c...erSport001.jpg

Yeah, to me a mint bike is one that's been socked away for years in someone's attic, covered in dust and cobwebs but perfect underneath. Of course you know it's the real low mileage ones that still have the original 40 year old grease in the bearings.
I think Sunset Orange is my favorite Schwinn color. Maybe Coppertone.

Like the pastor has said, if there is a market for a specific bike people will pay!
I would also note that some people do have only to use fingernail polish on things that they can't fix themselves.
I can only spray a bike myself (http://s1103.beta.photobucket.com/us...llow%20Schwinn) or take it to the powdercoaters.

David the color Sunset Orange in your picture was only used in the 1973 model SSs. You might of had a frame built in 1972 or even 1971 but the bike was a 1973 model. Roger

Great fillet-brazed frame, but heavy-a$$ed components. The famous three-piece crank is a I've got a '72 green and a '73 orange ($20 each) that I am re-building with lighter and better quality parts. It has proven to be a bit tedious, though, due to oddball sizes of the steerer, head and seat tube, as well as the cupped BB shell requiring an adapter.

The fillet-brazed history is explained here:
http://sheldonbrown.com/schwinn-braze.html

Here is a discussion on the bottom bracket adapter you may find interesting. BTW If you are in Ohio with any 24" Schwinns, let me know if you want to unload them?
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/ret...rt-184615.html

Here is the bracket adapter, I have heard the 4 boltis better if you can find it.
http://harriscyclery.net/product/tru...pter-1335.htm?

I could easily find a better-riding bike for the cost of a good SS, but having an SS is special because it has the Varsity look, so an SS with anything but a one piece crank and factory kickstand is missing something imo, at least as far as riding a bike that I'd want to be seen on.

It's not easy finding and having a better time than keeping up with the local speedy-class road ride on a bike with a 1-piece crank.
...which brings up the issues of 1) finding a race-length .833 neck and a pair of 1/2-inch "clipless BMX" pedals, 2) ditching the rando bars and 3) changing out the Huret's long-cage-version mounting claw that positions the derailer vertically and so ruins the shifting quality.

The SS has normal "road" geometry and so can leave a similar-weight Continental in it's dust. I did say similar.

I sold one that I had, also Sunset Orange last weekend for $200. Paint, chrome and everything else was in really really nice condition. I had it listed at that price and the buyer did not quibble.

Small world guess who has it?
Next time I will Quibble Ha Ha
Still lovin the bike

Connections, connections!

BTW, the link to Stan Coopers BB conversion on Road Bike Review, can also be found here in C&V. Stan is a regular here and there have been bunches of us who have converted our Schwinn one-piece BB shells. If this is your first, there are a few tricks and there is always some guess work involved. Finding the correct BB seems to be one of the challenges. I've found that the Shimano cartridge BB work best.

My '62 Continental
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...rdCrankset.jpg
My wife's '68 Super Sport, i.e. "Mrs. Sporty"
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...tyrearside.jpg
My '71 Super Sport, i.e. "Sporty"
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ankTARings.jpg
My former '80 Schwinn Twinn Sport X2
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...nocrankset.jpg