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Both crank arms stripped and frozen

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Both crank arms stripped and frozen

Old 01-24-13, 06:56 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Ye gods. Pretty graphic vision.

Wonder if heating the suckers with a torch would work?
Heating a gangreous finger with a torch won't work.
But heat on the crank and freeze-spray on the spindle along with proper use of a gear puller should work on a stuck crankarm.
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Old 01-24-13, 07:26 PM
  #27  
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I read here that a drill chuck wedge set, which is used to remove the chuck from drills, is the proper tool for this task:
http://www.jacobschuck.com/product_details.asp?pid=29
Seems simple and elegant and not too much brute force.
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Old 01-24-13, 07:56 PM
  #28  
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Ah. I have those drill chuck removal wedges. For my drill chucks. Thing is though, they're designed to work in quite a small gap. Usually much less that that found between crank arm and BB cups. But, a spacer between the wedges and the cup may help, though a pain to hold all that in place while you tap on each wedge.

Question for the pickle fork users; does the tool mar the BB cup during this operation? I imagine it must damage the crank arm.
Also, though I recommended a gear puller, those can be pesky to use too if you can't find anyplace on the back of the crank arm for the puller jaws to grab on to. Some applications require a selection of pullers, to find one that fits right.

Freeze off and ball bat sounding better all the time.

Last edited by rootboy; 01-24-13 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 01-24-13, 08:17 PM
  #29  
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Drop this guy a note. He goes through this all the time.

http://www.facebook.com/#!/BillsVint...lBikes?fref=ts
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Old 01-24-13, 08:21 PM
  #30  
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One other thing. You may want to heat up the arms with a torch. The aluminum will expand more and faster than the steel spindle.
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Old 01-24-13, 10:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Question for the pickle fork users; does the tool mar the BB cup during this operation? I imagine it must damage the crank arm.
It can if one decides to go ape on it but I've done it with gentle taps and nothing gets ruined provided the crank doesn't just bounce all over the shop floor. It's not hard to stick a scrap of leather or something around the tines, but I've only ever had to use this method on cranks that were ruined otherwise I'd be using the extractor or re-tapping threads.
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Old 01-27-13, 10:55 AM
  #32  
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Thanks all for the advice. Here is the outcome.

Since the cranks were already stripped, I wasn't worried about saving them. After all, why re-install them only to have to go through this again sometime. And, they were not exactly Campy SR.

I began with the brute force method, but used a rubber mallet instead of a bat. This didn't work. It's possible I was not hitting them as hard as I should have. I also wasn't sure how to position the bike.

This left me the Dremel and the fiber cutting wheel. After I was most of the way through the cranks, I took a large screwdriver and wedged it in to crack the remaining aluminum, after which they came off easily. The cranks are now in the Junk Art Materials box.

Cheers
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Old 08-23-14, 09:26 PM
  #33  
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Out of curiosity, if you have aluminum crank arms fused to an aluminum spindle, could ultrasonic cleaning help dissolve the bond between the two? I've unfortunately stripped the extraction threads on the left crank arm. I'm hesitant to attempt the right if the problem is that the axle/crank arm surfaces weren't greased properly years ago. I want to salvage the crank arms if at all possible.
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Old 08-23-14, 09:57 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Ye gods. Pretty graphic vision.

Wonder if heating the suckers with a torch would work?
+1. A propane torch is my go to for any crank that easily remove. Blast for a few seconds then remove with required tool.
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Old 08-23-14, 10:51 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mparker326 View Post
Loosen the crank bolts & ride it hard.
+1 without the crank bolts being tight, most cranks will quickly work themselves loose. Plus with this method you don't need to acquire anything to see if it will work.
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Old 08-24-14, 07:47 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Ah. I have those drill chuck removal wedges. For my drill chucks. Thing is though, they're designed to work in quite a small gap. Usually much less that that found between crank arm and BB cups. But, a spacer between the wedges and the cup may help, though a pain to hold all that in place while you tap on each wedge.
I've found that two sets of the wedges can fill the gap nicely.
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Old 08-24-14, 10:49 AM
  #37  
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Are you sure it is truly stripped and not just FUBB? I would try to chase the threads, or have someone else do it if you lack the tools. Or ride it with the locking nuts off, and ride it hard. If that does not work, kruzzer in post# 9 had a good idea, tap it out to a larger diameter that another tool would fit.
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Old 08-24-14, 10:49 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RFC View Post
Thanks all for the advice. Here is the outcome.

Since the cranks were already stripped, I wasn't worried about saving them. After all, why re-install them only to have to go through this again sometime. And, they were not exactly Campy SR.

I began with the brute force method, but used a rubber mallet instead of a bat. This didn't work. It's possible I was not hitting them as hard as I should have. I also wasn't sure how to position the bike.

This left me the Dremel and the fiber cutting wheel. After I was most of the way through the cranks, I took a large screwdriver and wedged it in to crack the remaining aluminum, after which they came off easily. The cranks are now in the Junk Art Materials box.

Cheers
A rubber mallet will only soften the application of force in a case like this. You want to apply a sudden percussive force, i.e. with wood or metal.
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Old 08-24-14, 11:09 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by vvup View Post
baseball bat.

Just get the frame set up somewhere nice and soft, preferably on grass and wack with baseball bat or other wooden bat like object. you might want to put some lubricant in there and let it soak in first. So far I have removed many cranks this way and not damaged any frames. I have tried the cutting and riding around with it loose, but always have to resort to the bat.
+ 1. Real mechanics use real tools.
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Old 08-24-14, 11:12 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mparker326 View Post
Loosen the crank bolts & ride it hard.
This
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Old 08-25-14, 03:22 PM
  #41  
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The above problem and (most of) the recommended remedies illustrate why I don't like to buy used bikes.
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Old 08-25-14, 07:22 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mparker326 View Post
Loosen the crank bolts & ride it hard.
And PB Blaster. The crank arms will fall off when you are at the maximum distance from home with no ride available.

Seriously, it's worth a shot.
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Old 08-26-14, 11:57 AM
  #43  
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this is the most fun thread we have had in some time.

keep those ideas coming.

wrt not saving the arms because of the damaged threads. they could always be tapped out to the stronglight size. var makes/made a tap for this.
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