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Both crank arms stripped and frozen

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Both crank arms stripped and frozen

Old 01-24-13, 02:37 PM
  #1  
RFC
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Both crank arms stripped and frozen

So, am I encountering the proverbial immovable object?

I picked up an MB-2 last weekend and began to disassemble it last night. I discovered that the crank threads were already pretty far gone and I stripped them the rest of the way trying to get them off. I wouldn't be surprised if the spindle is also frozen.

Am I at the point of having to cut off the arms or spindle? Other reasonable options? If I have to cut, what's the best way, a Dremel?

Thanks,

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Old 01-24-13, 02:39 PM
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Of course I'd say Dremel - with a fiber cutting wheel. It'll still be a bit of work, though

Good luck!

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Old 01-24-13, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RFC View Post
Both crank arms stripped and frozen
I had a date with twins once. Ended up something like that



If you can borrow a gear puller from an auto parts store, you may be able to pull the cranks off with that.
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Old 01-24-13, 02:57 PM
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I used a ball joint removal tool (pickle fork) to remove a stripped crank arm, worked great. Autozone will loan one at no charge.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:02 PM
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Loosen the crank bolts & ride it hard.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:14 PM
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Pulley, or gear puller should work. Cutting them off with a Dremel is going to be a messy, hard job. But it'll work.

Auto Zone might loan you one of these too. Two jaw version recommended.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...y%20Toolsmv=rr

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Old 01-24-13, 03:23 PM
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I did it with a Tuning fork and a hammer on one of mine. I think pickle fork/balljoint tool are the same, right?
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Old 01-24-13, 03:33 PM
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baseball bat.

Just get the frame set up somewhere nice and soft, preferably on grass and wack with baseball bat or other wooden bat like object. you might want to put some lubricant in there and let it soak in first. So far I have removed many cranks this way and not damaged any frames. I have tried the cutting and riding around with it loose, but always have to resort to the bat.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:34 PM
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Is it feasible to tap out the threads to a larger dimension? Like the old Stronglight threads?
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Old 01-24-13, 03:38 PM
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I'm kind if liking the baseball bat idea.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:39 PM
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I'm pretty sure Auto Zone won't have those.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RFC View Post
I'm kind if liking the baseball bat idea.
PB Blaster first!
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Old 01-24-13, 03:53 PM
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I have had success this way - Secure one crank arm in a bench vise. Put a steel pipe (about 3' long) over the other crank, and rock it back and forth.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:57 PM
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I had a 1st generation C-record crank become fused to a spindle. My first attempt to remove the ds crank stripped the threads, then I bent one of the spiders using a gear puller (borrowed free of charge from AutoZone), then bent the spiders some more (using a different model gear-puller borrowed from Kragen Auto Parts). From there, I had to saw it off with a hack saw. It took about 20 minutes with a hack saw while I fought back tears. From an emotional standpoint, it was like cutting off a gangrened finger.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:57 PM
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I'm gonna see what develops with this one. Good luck, Rob.
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Old 01-24-13, 03:57 PM
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I can see this is leaning toward brute force rather than subtlety. Whatever works. I think I'd be tempted to beat it with a mallet too.
But I have gear pullers.
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Old 01-24-13, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by gaucho777 View Post
From an emotional standpoint, it was like cutting off a gangrened finger.
Ye gods. Pretty graphic vision.

Wonder if heating the suckers with a torch would work?
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Old 01-24-13, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post

Wonder if heating the suckers with a torch would work?
If the crankset is Aluminum and the BB is steel or titanium, I think it would work fine.
But not vice versa.


Correct?
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Old 01-24-13, 04:07 PM
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Dry ice would be better, as the aluminum shrinks at a greater rate than the steel spindle. You'd probably still need to whack at it though.
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Old 01-24-13, 04:19 PM
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Heat should help, but it will still require some force. (Dry ice would shrink the arm more tightly onto the steel spindle.) Perhaps heat in conjunction with a gear puller. Some more discussion with various options (both destructive and non-destructive) for removal here:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hat-BB-out-now

I would not recommend simply whacking it with a big mallet, for fear of damaging the frame and/or BB.
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Old 01-24-13, 04:29 PM
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Heat them up with MAAP (fancy propane) gas and go for a ride.
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Old 01-24-13, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by gaucho777 View Post
From there, I had to saw it off with a hack saw. It took about 20 minutes with a hack saw while I fought back tears. From an emotional standpoint, it was like cutting off a gangrened finger.
That's how it fell out when I first got my Trek commuter; the PO had apparently neglected it for years... The drive side came off with a little effort, but the left (& the spindle) were frozen in place & had to be sawed off before I could pull the BB.
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Old 01-24-13, 05:26 PM
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I have a snap on gear puller set that will pull those off in a jiffy. Too bad you're in AZ.
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Old 01-24-13, 05:54 PM
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I've done this dozens of times at the co-op with the pickle fork. I'm sure the thing has paid for itself many times over with all the scrap aluminum I've saved. Get a 4lb beater and every crankarm in a 20km radius will tremble.
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Old 01-24-13, 06:39 PM
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Pickle fork and a BFH i've never incountered a crankarm that doesnt come off this way
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