Wanna build this frame with new components!!??
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Wanna build this frame with new components!!??
I always liked how my old Raleigh felt back in college and I basically got this frame for free so I'm thinking about building it. I would use the wheels shown. I also do realize that the rear wheel doesn't fit but somebody suggested the frame could be widened. Wondering if this is a bad idea?? And what else isn't gonna work? Thanks!!

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There is a thread retro roadies which shows old road bikes that have been updated.
As far as the wheels you can cold set them which involves bending the frame. Or you can just spread it when you put the wheel on going from 126 to 130 is not much.
As far as the wheels you can cold set them which involves bending the frame. Or you can just spread it when you put the wheel on going from 126 to 130 is not much.
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Very pretty. It doesn't look like the rear drop out has an integral derailleur hanger, so plan for that. It might also be a 120mm rear end instead of a 126, so plan for that as well.
#4
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
That is a beautiful looking frame.
If the spacing is 126 and the hubs are 130 then fitting them is quite easy as steel frames do have a little spring and 4mm does not throw off the dropout alignment much although the proper way to do this is to cold set the frame and align the dropouts.
Frame looks like a Raleigh International with a new coat of paint... would love to see the fork if you have it.
You will need to check the bottom bracket to determine the bottom bracket type and the diameter of the seat post will determine what type of tubing it is and what size of seatpost you require.
If the spacing is 126 and the hubs are 130 then fitting them is quite easy as steel frames do have a little spring and 4mm does not throw off the dropout alignment much although the proper way to do this is to cold set the frame and align the dropouts.
Frame looks like a Raleigh International with a new coat of paint... would love to see the fork if you have it.
You will need to check the bottom bracket to determine the bottom bracket type and the diameter of the seat post will determine what type of tubing it is and what size of seatpost you require.
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The first thing to check is does this frame need 27" or 700c wheels?
Then, as mentioned, the RD hanger thing, that could cause headaches getting a 7+ system to index well.
As for the dropout spacing check for a bike shop in the area that knows how to 'coldset' and align the frame. You can DIY it but I use a guy in NJ with a nice frame table.
Did you get the fork too?
Then, as mentioned, the RD hanger thing, that could cause headaches getting a 7+ system to index well.
As for the dropout spacing check for a bike shop in the area that knows how to 'coldset' and align the frame. You can DIY it but I use a guy in NJ with a nice frame table.
Did you get the fork too?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#6
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did you paint it yourself?
if so you may consider cutting and welding on a deraileur hanger now, you may still have silver(chrome) paint to touch it up.
(cut and use an old steel deraileur hanger)
nice frame!
if so you may consider cutting and welding on a deraileur hanger now, you may still have silver(chrome) paint to touch it up.
(cut and use an old steel deraileur hanger)
nice frame!
#7
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That is a beautiful looking frame.
If the spacing is 126 and the hubs are 130 then fitting them is quite easy as steel frames do have a little spring and 4mm does not throw off the dropout alignment much although the proper way to do this is to cold set the frame and align the dropouts.
Frame looks like a Raleigh International with a new coat of paint... would love to see the fork if you have it.
You will need to check the bottom bracket to determine the bottom bracket type and the diameter of the seat post will determine what type of tubing it is and what size of seatpost you require.
If the spacing is 126 and the hubs are 130 then fitting them is quite easy as steel frames do have a little spring and 4mm does not throw off the dropout alignment much although the proper way to do this is to cold set the frame and align the dropouts.
Frame looks like a Raleigh International with a new coat of paint... would love to see the fork if you have it.
You will need to check the bottom bracket to determine the bottom bracket type and the diameter of the seat post will determine what type of tubing it is and what size of seatpost you require.
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Hmm, sure looks like an Int'l to me.
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The Raliegh lug work makes me think this is a late 70's frame made in Nottingham. Which could pose some problems most of these frames took Raleigh specific headsets and bottom brackets with mathced cranks.
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#14
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I am only a little baffled...
The International used Nervex lugs and this is a match, the derailleur hangar may have been drewed, and it might just be the picture... but those rear stays look far too chunky for an International which used Reynold's / Raleigh rapid taper stays and either had the seat stay wrapped around the lug in some years or had a finer looking cap.
The Professional had plainer lugs.
The drive side seat stay does not look right either for it to be an International.
Will wait on a seat tube measurement and some details on that bottom bracket to get more clues.
It may be a Nervex equipped Super Course with straight gauge 531 in the mains and this would explain the chunkier seat stays.
The International used Nervex lugs and this is a match, the derailleur hangar may have been drewed, and it might just be the picture... but those rear stays look far too chunky for an International which used Reynold's / Raleigh rapid taper stays and either had the seat stay wrapped around the lug in some years or had a finer looking cap.
The Professional had plainer lugs.
The drive side seat stay does not look right either for it to be an International.
Will wait on a seat tube measurement and some details on that bottom bracket to get more clues.
It may be a Nervex equipped Super Course with straight gauge 531 in the mains and this would explain the chunkier seat stays.
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 02-06-13 at 11:08 PM.
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+1 Get the frame cold set, re-align the dropouts and tack on a derailleur hanger, then touch up. You'll be good to go, and it is a very nice looking frame.
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#16
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Cold setting the frame is easy enough but I'm affraid the process may damage your new paint job

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The only claw hanger that may work well, is one of those Campagnolo Gran Sport ones that have an offset to the inside.
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now that new bikes have hangers as replaceable parts, it should be easy to just find one to cut up.
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I did paint this frame and I'm not happy with the color so I don't care if I hurt the paint doing anything to it. I use to paint harleys and this is a true kandy paint job and that's where I messed up. I thought I already had all the colors to get me to lime green/yellow but not really....lol. I cleared the bike with a yellow dye to get it where it is now.... for those that don't understand how it went from blue to green.
Anyways, I took it to a bike shop here in Austin yesterday and they pretty much poo poo'd the whole idea. The rear is at 120mm not 126. They did say they could cold set it but the extra long brakes and lots of other stuff missing on the frame, make it difficult and expensive.... according to them. Said it would be a great fixi frame though.
I'll get the BB dimension in a bit but my question now is what if I stripped this frame, could I go buy all the stuff that's needed and braze it on?? If so where? I have a great machinist who's a good friend. Or maybe I should punt and buy a later model modern frame that has everything there???
Thanks for any ideas!

This is taken outside in full sunlight..... almost lime green.
Anyways, I took it to a bike shop here in Austin yesterday and they pretty much poo poo'd the whole idea. The rear is at 120mm not 126. They did say they could cold set it but the extra long brakes and lots of other stuff missing on the frame, make it difficult and expensive.... according to them. Said it would be a great fixi frame though.
I'll get the BB dimension in a bit but my question now is what if I stripped this frame, could I go buy all the stuff that's needed and braze it on?? If so where? I have a great machinist who's a good friend. Or maybe I should punt and buy a later model modern frame that has everything there???
Thanks for any ideas!

This is taken outside in full sunlight..... almost lime green.

#20
incazzare.
I think that's a super course.
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I dont see a problem here. The lack of a hanger is a small issue in the big picture if you want to build the bike.
What all do you already have that you want to use? Modern tekros are not gonna hurt your budget that much.
I am in Austin also if you need any help.
What all do you already have that you want to use? Modern tekros are not gonna hurt your budget that much.
I am in Austin also if you need any help.
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I agree it is a great color. Its funky and I like funky.
as for building it....I wouldn't go off the deep end and set my sights on DuraAce or top of the line Campagnolo with brifters but it could be a great cool bike.
If your planning to use the wheels in the background, get, as Zach suggest, some nutted long reach Tektros, and brake levers. Shimano barcons will get you 8spd indexing, but not with a super fancy derailleur.
The wildcard is the BB but if it fits the shell you can use a Velo Orange threadless BB.
I have found that at lots of shops they are not interested in doing much other than tuneups and taking a bad part off and putting a new part on. Look around for a dirty old shop that looks like it has been there since Texas belonged to France then you might have a chance of getting something done.
as for building it....I wouldn't go off the deep end and set my sights on DuraAce or top of the line Campagnolo with brifters but it could be a great cool bike.
If your planning to use the wheels in the background, get, as Zach suggest, some nutted long reach Tektros, and brake levers. Shimano barcons will get you 8spd indexing, but not with a super fancy derailleur.
The wildcard is the BB but if it fits the shell you can use a Velo Orange threadless BB.
I have found that at lots of shops they are not interested in doing much other than tuneups and taking a bad part off and putting a new part on. Look around for a dirty old shop that looks like it has been there since Texas belonged to France then you might have a chance of getting something done.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Last edited by Bianchigirll; 02-07-13 at 04:43 PM.
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I liked it in blue but I love in now!
if I were in your shoes, I would build it with an internal hub and 700c wheels. It will give you plenty of clearance for some killer hammered fenders and like Zach said, tektros work great. I can just see it with porteur bars, a brooks saddle and matching leather tape.
my dreaming aside, your original plans are still very feasible but will take a little more work than a later frame. If it is truly what you want, don't let anyone stop you. A bike doesn't have to make sense to anyone else as long as it fits your wants/needs.
for reference, I recently had a shop (co-op) tell me an 84 Colnago wasn't worth building up because it required an obsolete Italian BB.
if I were in your shoes, I would build it with an internal hub and 700c wheels. It will give you plenty of clearance for some killer hammered fenders and like Zach said, tektros work great. I can just see it with porteur bars, a brooks saddle and matching leather tape.
my dreaming aside, your original plans are still very feasible but will take a little more work than a later frame. If it is truly what you want, don't let anyone stop you. A bike doesn't have to make sense to anyone else as long as it fits your wants/needs.
for reference, I recently had a shop (co-op) tell me an 84 Colnago wasn't worth building up because it required an obsolete Italian BB.
Last edited by thirdgenbird; 02-07-13 at 04:59 PM.
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OH an IGH would be cool.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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