Brake Compatibility (600 Content)
#1
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Brake Compatibility (600 Content)
I've been in the process of rebuilding my 1986 Trek 400 Elance.
I want to do a build that is functional, yet sufficiently preciously retro.
One of the things I wanted to tackle was getting some fancy pants brakes on there. My initial thought was to do the Tri-Color 600 dual pivots- so I was able to score a set, but I had trouble getting the rear mounted- as my bike took a recessed front and a nutted back. Someone suggested the Tri-Color single pivots, and I actually liked the idea of the dual pivot in the front and the single in the back... so I scored a set of those- and put the front brake on the back with a nut.
I really wanted drilled or slotted levers- I think they look the coolest. I acquired a set of the dual slotted 600 brake levers- from the 600 series before the Tri-Color.
Anyone know the problem I think I've run into?
It seems the Tri-Color brakes are really easy to pull. Conversely there isn't a lot of spring tension to open them back up and pull the cable back to the lever. I'm assuming that's why the Tri-Color levers have that SLR spring assist.
Is there any way to increase that spring tension on the brake?
I'd really like to keep the dual slotted levers and the Tri-Color brakes... if I can't... I don't know which I'd rather give up.
I want to do a build that is functional, yet sufficiently preciously retro.
One of the things I wanted to tackle was getting some fancy pants brakes on there. My initial thought was to do the Tri-Color 600 dual pivots- so I was able to score a set, but I had trouble getting the rear mounted- as my bike took a recessed front and a nutted back. Someone suggested the Tri-Color single pivots, and I actually liked the idea of the dual pivot in the front and the single in the back... so I scored a set of those- and put the front brake on the back with a nut.
I really wanted drilled or slotted levers- I think they look the coolest. I acquired a set of the dual slotted 600 brake levers- from the 600 series before the Tri-Color.
Anyone know the problem I think I've run into?
It seems the Tri-Color brakes are really easy to pull. Conversely there isn't a lot of spring tension to open them back up and pull the cable back to the lever. I'm assuming that's why the Tri-Color levers have that SLR spring assist.
Is there any way to increase that spring tension on the brake?
I'd really like to keep the dual slotted levers and the Tri-Color brakes... if I can't... I don't know which I'd rather give up.
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There's a little plactic bushing on the springs where they rest on the arm. You can reverse it - to hold the spring a little farther out from the nub that it rests on, and that will increase the tension somewhat. Whether it's enough to compensate for the lack of a spring in the lever - probably not. Make sure you're using quality lined housing to eliminate friction also.
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That was good advice. Also make sure the calipers are clean & well-lubed, at the pivots. A lot of times, the nut at the pivot is too tight for the spring to work properly, and all it needs is a little adjustment, plus the aforementioned cleaning & lubing. Just don't take everything apart, & blame me if it doesn't go back together right, LOL. Take notes and/or pics, if needed.
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That was good advice. Also make sure the calipers are clean & well-lubed, at the pivots. A lot of times, the nut at the pivot is too tight for the spring to work properly, and all it needs is a little adjustment, plus the aforementioned cleaning & lubing. Just don't take everything apart, & blame me if it doesn't go back together right, LOL. Take notes and/or pics, if needed.
The brakes both squeeze together and open outrageously smoothly. But they do it very effortlessly, so there's nothing pinching-
Unless I'm wrong about the way I'm seeing this- older brakes were harder to pull because of greater spring tension, that spring tension would also PUSH the cable back and reset the lever. The newer brakes are easier to pull and rely on the spring in the the lever to pull the cable back to the lever and reset it.
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#5
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It looks like I might be able to shim the spring a touch...
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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My secret plan is to blame you for the whole thing not working. You can probably hear the cuss words and at least sense my fist shaking.
The brakes both squeeze together and open outrageously smoothly. But they do it very effortlessly, so there's nothing pinching-
Unless I'm wrong about the way I'm seeing this- older brakes were harder to pull because of greater spring tension, that spring tension would also PUSH the cable back and reset the lever. The newer brakes are easier to pull and rely on the spring in the the lever to pull the cable back to the lever and reset it.
The brakes both squeeze together and open outrageously smoothly. But they do it very effortlessly, so there's nothing pinching-
Unless I'm wrong about the way I'm seeing this- older brakes were harder to pull because of greater spring tension, that spring tension would also PUSH the cable back and reset the lever. The newer brakes are easier to pull and rely on the spring in the the lever to pull the cable back to the lever and reset it.
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Welcome to Shimano Linear Response or SLR. One of shimano's big inovations in the late '80s was SLR which had two purroses.
1 Was to lighten the feel on the brake and make them easier to pull and thereby increasing brake power. This was done by putting a slighter lighter spring in the caliper so they were easier to squeeze close. Then they put a return spring in the lever so the caliper spring no longer had to push the brake cable to return the brake lever to the resting point.
2 this was also one of shimano's many ways of trying to keep bike companies from speccing their calipers but a cheaper lever.
I doubt you can locate a stronger spring for the DP brake, which post date your frame by what 6 years? ANd thrying to shim the spring just sounds dangerous.
1 Was to lighten the feel on the brake and make them easier to pull and thereby increasing brake power. This was done by putting a slighter lighter spring in the caliper so they were easier to squeeze close. Then they put a return spring in the lever so the caliper spring no longer had to push the brake cable to return the brake lever to the resting point.
2 this was also one of shimano's many ways of trying to keep bike companies from speccing their calipers but a cheaper lever.
I doubt you can locate a stronger spring for the DP brake, which post date your frame by what 6 years? ANd thrying to shim the spring just sounds dangerous.
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#8
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After looking at the brakes in person, and seeing the way the spring moves at it's outward most point- shimming seems like a poor option.
Now the question is, what do I like better? The cool tri-color brakes or the cool dual slotted levers...
In all honesty, the original Z series brakes didn't seem "bad," I mean, I can't think of any time that I was worried about stopping with them. So some nice shiny single pivot brakes?
On the other hand, I just bought 2 sets of brakes to have these brakes fit on my bike... So a set of 600 Tri-Color levers?
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#9
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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