SJX426 

Introduction:
I paid too much for this bike, so I am resigned to get it back on the road in some decent condition. I originally wanted to use it as a beater for around town riding but the real reason for purchase was the need for a bike to ride while away from home (bikeless at the time). I also thought I was getting something better than a gas pipe or 4xxx tubed bike that I could restore. It is 2cm bigger than my Colnago and I wanted to see if a larger frame was a better option. It was/is to be an alternative to riding the ‘nago for a number of reasons. At one point I considered using 610 for commuting (need those eyelets!) and light touring. Now that I have ridden it, it is worth keeping and is a good replacement for my ’72 Le Champion that was destroyed in 2009.

What it is:

The Frame - The eyelets were drewed, negating restoration. The frame was rattle-canned painted to cover up the rust. After complete stripping, there was some surface level rust under some of the paint but nothing significant.

Drive train - The cranks are correct for the spec but have been removed multiple times or tried to be removed multiple times with a pulley extractor leaving a lot of damage to the surface. I didn’t notice this until last week even though I have had it nearly a year.
The spec’s say it came with Shimano 600 brakes and drive train but, the brakes are Dia Compe. Everything else is stock. Oh yes, the RD was damaged but still functioned.
The hubs don’t feel great. I cleaned and lubed the front one and adjusted properly. The cones don’t look great and should be replaced. Don’t think the hub is worth the effort, reasons below.

Wheels – Stock 27”, 36 spoke with rear Mallard Helicomatic freewheel

Choices:

Frame - I purchased braze on parts for eyelet replacement, FD frame mount (should I use or not?), barcon adjustable cable stops and bosses for mounting a rear rack. I even considered adding bosses to the fork for a pannier rack. I ordered two sets of different sizes but one set has too large a radius to use on either the fork or stays. I suppose I could cut one of the large ones into two pieces and braze them on the side of the fork, not an appealing thought. Minimum would be to replace the drewed eyelets.
Finish – PC or wet paint, with or without replacement decals and head badge? The Imron was really difficult to get off and required a lot of scraping in the difficult areas. My thoughts are since this is not restorable (thanks drew!) Why not just PC it in the color of my choice and get the durability of PC. A somewhat local shop (Figure Finishing, Manassas) has a good reputation of not applying it too thick. Would it be wrong to apply the stock decals or should I just apply the head badge? I think it would be appropriate to keep the ID of the bike known. The SN may be enough but….

Drive train - I have parts left over from my 72 Le Champion (NR RD, FD and shifters, Stronglight M93 crank and BB in Swiss threading), a Suntour Superbe Pro Derailleur set and barcons, and the parts pulled from the bike originally. I also have a Shimano frame mount FD.
I don’t know if I can use the Stronglight spindle (118 length for a 68 shell) with the Shimano cups. If you could tell me great, otherwise it will be trial and error with the most expensive solution being a new BB purchase.

Brakes – I have Dia Compe side pulls and levers, and Universal 61 brakes with levers (need hoods) and mounting brackets (rear would be a challenge due to the difference in the seat post clamp). My preference would be for Tektro 539 or equivalent DP brakes (Universal 61’s?). I really like the Universal brake levers, which are in good condition except for the hoods, which I know are available as reproductions. Could I use them with the 539’s?

Wheels – The original hubs and rims (27”, 36 spoke) are in good condition, well the rims anyway. I have Record HF hubs and Rigida 1320 rims (hardly used but can’t remember if these are 27’s or 700c’s). I also have an extra set of tubulars with GP4’s with Record LF hubs. The rear hub is suspect as I have not inspected it yet. Felt OK when checked for rotational resistance and smoothness. I don’t need or want the Helicomatic system.
I do have a couple of sets of currently unused Record HF (36 hole) hubs to replace the stock ones. One is already converted to 126 spacing. I would need to purchase spokes (LF to HF) if my stock is the wrong length. I think I have some that are the right length for HF with 27” rims. I also have a number of 5, 6 and 7 cog freewheels to choose from. The existing gearing is a bit high for the area but not a significant problem unless I wanted to ride in the Blue Ridge Mountains. That brings up another option of going compact or triple!

What would you do?

Pictures (27) here: https://s985.photobucket.com/albums/a...0%20Evolution/

kc0yef 

I would get all the rust off and prep the frame the pictures I saw your not ready to do anything,

Then add braze ons add whatever you want to add at a frame shop reprep the frame then paint it and then I would put a Suntour Sprint 9000 Group with Weyless hubs on NISI 36 tubular and modello Corsa brakes and on it I thought about rebuilding the Superchampion rims but they were missing 6 spokes so I went ahead and rebuilt them they are great but the tubulars are so much lighter and I used a TA double crank. Thats what I would do and did

Wildwood 

Treat the rust. Clearcoat it. Ride it unique.
Clamps on stays/fork will support racks.
You stated that you spent too much and are mad about the drew job, go cheap.