ThermionicScott 

It looks to me like it was measured correctly. "Q-factor" is a consideration for some, but a lot of bike companies must not have given it much thought, because I've seen a lot of bikes with way-longer spindles than they needed. Lots of clearance between the chainrings and frame, from the crankarms to the frame... my bikes are now sporting much shorter BBs than they came to me with.

Grand Bois

He included the threaded portion of a nutted spindle in his first measurement. Does that seem correct to you?

ThermionicScott 

His pictures exclude the threaded portion, and I see no written mention of including it in his measurements.

Grand Bois

How do you think he came up with 133.5mm in his first post?

mparker326

Maybe I'm missing it as well, but on pic 1 and 2, it sure looks like the "0" is on 133.5 and he isn't measuring the threaded portion.

ThermionicScott 

Unless my eyes deceive me, his caliper picture in post #17 reads just that. I have no idea why these uber-long spindles were made BITD, but they were.

GrayJay

Same moped conversion site also stocks a replacement 135mm length loose-ball spindle;
https://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog...alqv451otnj6o0

I can attest that a 135mm spindle is rediculously wide for a standard MTB. I used a 135mm spindle with a 90's era deoreLX square-taper crank to get the inner granny chainring out to 48mm chainline, enough clearance that I was able to setup the chainline to clear a 3.7" surly endomorph fatbike tire on a 68mm BB frame (with modified chainstays & seatstays) .

Bill Kapaun

52 + 2X the end the crank fits on.
Since both exceed the 127MM cartridge, you only have one option to try if you go that route.

mainstreetexile 

Are you sure you want to go smaller on your chainrings? With 26" wheels, the gearing is already lower than 700c or 27" equivalents. 28-38-48 should get you pretty much anywhere you need to go, even loaded up for touring.

Jackontheroad

I didn't include the threaded portion when I measured. And I am choosing smaller chainrings since I think it will give me more gears to actually use. I don't have the more powerful legs, yet. My prediction is that of the three chainrings I will only use the 26T and maybe some in the 36T; for instance on my Fuji touring 2013 that is a 9 speed very lightly loaded I don't need to use the 2 bigger chainrings, I mean I could use the middle, never the bigger one but, the gears I would get with the middle chainring are repeated or really close in the smaller chainring so, I only use the rear derailleur shifter. Only experience will tell the right answer if 26T is good or not to my own needs. I am painting the frame so it will be awhile until I build the bike and measure if I have enough clearance to use a 127 mm. BB. I really appreciate all your comments and answers, always helpful. Peace, Jack.

Zoku620

I have one of these bikes (not sure of year, though) that i am converting to a single speed for a friend.

I was replacing the BB anyway, but looks different than yours -

The bike had some replacement parts, but I think the bb and crank were original. Anyway, it's in good shape and I don't need it, if you want to give it a try, pay for the postage and it's yours.

Zoku620

Ok, I looked around at the bikes piled in the basement, and realized the Peugeot crank is actually on the Rixe I built for a different person, it's been a long winter and I am looking forward to the warm weather just to clean house! I tore it apart, but the spindle in that was 128mm. Anyway, same thing, if you can use it you can have it, I actually have a different one to use myself.

mainstreetexile 

Using a 26t chainring in the front with an 11-32 freewheel in the back will give you a top speed of 2.5mph on the flats (if you're spinning at 300rpm). (Those are just rough estimates.)

I'd really recommend just trying to ride in the middle/38 of your 28/38/48, especially for flats, and save the 28 for climbing. It's already really low gearing with the 26" wheels, but whatever works.

Jackontheroad

Thanks,

Jackontheroad

Zoku620, I'll keep your offer in mind but, I think if my bike accepts a smaller spindle I will just buy the longer modern I can find.

Jackontheroad

mainstreetexile, can you please show the math for your calculations, I would really appreciate I can learn that.

mainstreetexile 

I was just joking. The main point I was trying to make was that only using a 26t chainring up front all the time with 26" wheels would be very slow and lead to a lot of spinning.

Jackontheroad

Ok, I am joking all the time and don't understand when people are just doing the same. In any case I chose the 26 because I know my speed is actually slow average 10mph on a 60 mile trip on flat terrain riding a good bike with 700 wheels. In the mean time until I find the formula, only experience will tell the right answer of what I need. And hopefully on a year I am a bit faster, that's the idea.

miamijim

Wide spindles were used so there'd be lots of clearance for mud and such....

likebike23

26/32 is a good ratio if you are mountain biking or loaded touring. I wouldn't worry about it too much. You'll only be in that gear when you need it, and if you need it you'll be glad you've got it.

miamijim

Mock it back together with the old spindle and bearings. Once together measure the crank arm end to chain stay gap, add L &R gaps to get an idea of how much you can narrow the spindle, be sure to measure all 3 chainring gaps as well as Those gaps may be tighter.

Jackontheroad

precisely.