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Help with removing front steering lock for a rudge.
2 Attachment(s)
I am hoping there is someone out there with experience in removing a front steering lock for a 50's Raleigh Rudge. I really want to find the serial number or take it to a lock smith to get a key for it. I have seen a removal PDF on the Internet but it is for a lock which goes through the fork.
The one I have is set back from the front tube as you can see in the photo. It has a chrome blank in the back. I can't work out the access to the mechanism to remove it. I am guessing that I may need to remove the chrome back plate but not really sure. I would hate to mangle the metal if I am completely wrong. Thanks in advance for looking. |
3 Attachment(s)
Hello! how are you? I just restored a lovely Rudge-Withworth 1953.
Everything is in working order now, I fixed the gears, dynohubs and re painted some ares etc. but unfortunately I couldn't find the way to open or fix the steering lock, the same as you.. I wasn't sure how to do it and I didn't want to damage it. I can see that you post this info a year ago and nobody post anything. Did you find the way to fix it at the end? Please see my bike's picture attached. Thanks in advance, Chris http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385088http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385089http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385090 |
Moon,
If you reply with quote, muggers will get an email referring to it. |
Originally Posted by Moon74
(Post 16820119)
Hello! how are you? I just restored a lovely Rudge-Withworth 1953.
Everything is in working order now, I fixed the gears, dynohubs and re painted some ares etc. but unfortunately I couldn't find the way to open or fix the steering lock, the same as you.. I wasn't sure how to do it and I didn't want to damage it. I can see that you post this info a year ago and nobody post anything. Did you find the way to fix it at the end? Please see my bike's picture attached. Thanks in advance, Chris http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385088http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385089http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=385090 There is a number on the lock barrel you will need to get a key made. To remove the lock you will have to remove, and likely destroy, the chrome cap behind the lock. There is a screw that must be removed before removing the lock cylinder. The lock cyclinder cannot be removed unless the lock rod that engages the fork is removed. To remove the rod the lock cylinder needs to be turned to the lock (lowered) position. If you don't have a key you need to pick the lock. This is relatively easy if you are patient. There are 4 "pins" in the lock that need to be depressed as tension is placed to turn the lock cylinder. The first step is to look into the lock to see the brass pins. Next take a dental pick, a good quality one, and try to depress the pins. They should be easy to depress. If not they need to be lubricated so they are. Now play with the pick and depress the pins one at a time. You should be able to feel each one. Next you need to make a tension lever to apply tension to the lock as you "pick" the pins. I use a scroll saw blade bent at a right angle. The end inserted into the lock should be about 18 mm long. The "handle" you will be applying tension to should be about 10 cm long. Next you need to determine which way the cylinder turns to lock or extend the rod. On my Raleigh the cylinder must be turned clockwise (to the right) to lock. Looking at your pictures the Rudge is turned the same. POSITION THE FORK AWAY FROM THE LOCKING HOLES in the frame to allow removal of the lock rod.! Place the "tension wrench" in the cylinder away from the pins and apply LIGHT tension. Using the back of the pick (NOT the sharp(e) tip) depress the pins one at a time moving the pick along all four pins as you hold tension on the cylinder. You should NOT try to depress the pins as far as they will go.You are just trying to push them down enough to place them into position to allow the cylinder to rotate. It will require a bit of trial and error but you will turn the cylinder. Once you turn it the lock rod will be extended fully at this point you will need to remove the rod to the remove the cylinder. The rod is held in place by a spring. The rod is rotated left or right to depress the spring and remove the rod. The rod needs to be rotated a full 90 degrees to do so. With the rod removed the screww at the back of the cylinder is removed freeing the cylinder. There will be a number on the lock cylinder. This is the code a locksmith will use to make a new key. I used a Steve's lock shop (steveslockshop.com) in Texas but I'm sure you can find a local smith to do this. Good luck |
Originally Posted by autoteacher
(Post 16821199)
There is a number on the lock barrel you will need to get a key made. To remove the lock you will have to remove, and likely destroy, the chrome cap behind the lock. There is a screw that must be removed before removing the lock cylinder. The lock cyclinder cannot be removed unless the lock rod that engages the fork is removed. To remove the rod the lock cylinder needs to be turned to the lock (lowered) position. If you don't have a key you need to pick the lock. This is relatively easy if you are patient.
There are 4 "pins" in the lock that need to be depressed as tension is placed to turn the lock cylinder. The first step is to look into the lock to see the brass pins. Next take a dental pick, a good quality one, and try to depress the pins. They should be easy to depress. If not they need to be lubricated so they are. Now play with the pick and depress the pins one at a time. You should be able to feel each one. Next you need to make a tension lever to apply tension to the lock as you "pick" the pins. I use a scroll saw blade bent at a right angle. The end inserted into the lock should be about 18 mm long. The "handle" you will be applying tension to should be about 10 cm long. Next you need to determine which way the cylinder turns to lock or extend the rod. On my Raleigh the cylinder must be turned clockwise (to the right) to lock. Looking at your pictures the Rudge is turned the same. POSITION THE FORK AWAY FROM THE LOCKING HOLES in the frame to allow removal of the lock rod.! Place the "tension wrench" in the cylinder away from the pins and apply LIGHT tension. Using the back of the pick (NOT the sharp(e) tip) depress the pins one at a time moving the pick along all four pins as you hold tension on the cylinder. You should NOT try to depress the pins as far as they will go.You are just trying to push them down enough to place them into position to allow the cylinder to rotate. It will require a bit of trial and error but you will turn the cylinder. Once you turn it the lock rod will be extended fully at this point you will need to remove the rod to the remove the cylinder. The rod is held in place by a spring. The rod is rotated left or right to depress the spring and remove the rod. The rod needs to be rotated a full 90 degrees to do so. With the rod removed the screww at the back of the cylinder is removed freeing the cylinder. There will be a number on the lock cylinder. This is the code a locksmith will use to make a new key. I used a Steve's lock shop (steveslockshop.com) in Texas but I'm sure you can find a local smith to do this. Good luck Thank you for taking your time to explain in details on how to do this. I will definitely give it a go. All the best, Moon |
Originally Posted by seedsbelize
(Post 16820774)
Moon,
If you reply with quote, muggers will get an email referring to it. Muchas gracias por la información. Saludos desde Gales. Diolch! Moon |
De nada.
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