Vitus TT steel frame
#26
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If it is "fillet-brazed" you should be able to see the "fillings"? ......"rounded" in the corners" ......it seems not to be in this frame. TIG-welding is with higher temperatures than brazing? ....the BB.....here lugs has been used. But it is just "straight" lugs.....no "arts" made on this frame :-) .....I got the message that the frame has been in a celler for maybe 15-20 years.
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Chombi is right, and there's the other technique that Motobecane used that they called "in-external brazing"... they are all brazing techniques using bronze alloys...not what a welder would call "welding" since the parent material is never molten.
Yes, you'd see the "fillet" in the joint if it was traditional fillet-brazing, a master brazer can make it very tidy and smooth, but with the Peugeot and Moto techniques there really isn't any visible "bead" on the outside joint.
I did notice that the BB shell has boring straight-cut sockets, and that's usually the mark of a cheap(er) frame...let's see what your frame-restorer thinks of it, he'll have it completely stripped and will have seen it "naked".
Yes, you'd see the "fillet" in the joint if it was traditional fillet-brazing, a master brazer can make it very tidy and smooth, but with the Peugeot and Moto techniques there really isn't any visible "bead" on the outside joint.
I did notice that the BB shell has boring straight-cut sockets, and that's usually the mark of a cheap(er) frame...let's see what your frame-restorer thinks of it, he'll have it completely stripped and will have seen it "naked".
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I thought you were having the frame and fork repainted...apparently not by the guy who's got it now. Anyway, he will just cold-set it and that doesn't require him to strip any paint or chrome...but he might have an opinion about the thing: what the tubing is, how it's built, etc. so pick his brain.
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I thought you were having the frame and fork repainted...apparently not by the guy who's got it now. Anyway, he will just cold-set it and that doesn't require him to strip any paint or chrome...but he might have an opinion about the thing: what the tubing is, how it's built, etc. so pick his brain.
#31
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The in external was used from the 80's till the mid-late 90's before Motobecane went all aluminium and carbon. Peugeot also had inexternal brazed frames but also had team line top of the range steel MTB frames that were in external welded for the columbus cyber frame and tig welded for the genius MTB frame, for the top of the range steel road frames, there was the team line with the Neuron set of columbus tubes which was handbrazed with lugs, the Brain which was filet brazed and the Genius set of columbus tubes which was tig welded but was available with the festina polished welds finish.Gitane had made some nice frames in the mid late 90's was one a genius frame which was handbrazed and which had nice lugs then they made a nemo tig welded frame with a carbon fork which was equipped with dura ace 7700 or 7900.
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I am a bit closer to what the frame is. It was a Danish brand and the bike was called "Kildemoes dykker" or translated "Kildemoes diver" and was original sold with a 650c fork. I found some Pictures which shows the bike with its original painting and labels. As far I can see the tubes are called 500 Chrome-Moly and on the label I think it is written "French tubes". Maybe some of you know better what kind of tubes it is. Probably some "mid class" tubes?
On the Pictures I found the bike has been converted to a single speed.
On the Pictures I found the bike has been converted to a single speed.
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Reynolds 500 was a seamed, plain-gauge tubeset. From what I can see of your sticker and reading, the bike is probably only those tubes in the main triangle, with some lesser tubes in your stays. Someone might have to correct me on this, but is 501 just a plain gauge version of 501?
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Ok......so OK material but not as light as it could be. I read another place that 500 is 1mm and 501 is butted down to 0.8mm in the middle? .....but Reynolds is not French....so maybe as you say.....the triangle is Reynolds......and the rest French tubes maybe? I think the frame is OK for my first project.....as least better than Hi-Tensile steel?
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I found this "Reynolds table": https://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/rey...bing-sizes.jpg
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I am a bit closer to what the frame is. It was a Danish brand and the bike was called "Kildemoes dykker" or translated "Kildemoes diver" and was original sold with a 650c fork. I found some Pictures which shows the bike with its original painting and labels. As far I can see the tubes are called 500 Chrome-Moly and on the label I think it is written "French tubes". Maybe some of you know better what kind of tubes it is. Probably some "mid class" tubes?
On the Pictures I found the bike has been converted to a single speed.
On the Pictures I found the bike has been converted to a single speed.
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I think you nailed it for yourself: Kildemoes (and not something any of us would ever have found, I'd bet!)
Looks like a Reynolds 500 frame (that's plain-guage Cr-Mo tube offered just as a 3-main-tube set, so the stays might be "anything else") with Vitus drop-outs...I don't think anything else is "French" on it.
Looks like a Reynolds 500 frame (that's plain-guage Cr-Mo tube offered just as a 3-main-tube set, so the stays might be "anything else") with Vitus drop-outs...I don't think anything else is "French" on it.
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I think you nailed it for yourself: Kildemoes (and not something any of us would ever have found, I'd bet!)
Looks like a Reynolds 500 frame (that's plain-guage Cr-Mo tube offered just as a 3-main-tube set, so the stays might be "anything else") with Vitus drop-outs...I don't think anything else is "French" on it.
Looks like a Reynolds 500 frame (that's plain-guage Cr-Mo tube offered just as a 3-main-tube set, so the stays might be "anything else") with Vitus drop-outs...I don't think anything else is "French" on it.
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Both the bike repair person and the paint person knew the frame and when I got home I knew what to "goggle" to find out what kind of tubes etc. "Kildemoes" is known for making good solid bikes which last for many years. I can probably assume that the assembly of the frame is fine. One thing is the material......another is how it is assembled? Some of the components I have for the frame is: Fulcrum Quattro Wheels, SRAM 10 speed XO flat bar trigger, SRAM Force "rear shifter", SRAM 1070 cassette, Miche BB and crank. Do you think these componets are too good for such a frame......or does it "sound" as a good match?
If it turns out that your frame tubes are at least butted CrMo or Manganese alloy tubing, I suspect that the frame was then meant as a mid level model TT bike. The top of the line TT bikes will usually sport more distinctive lugs from big makers like Cinelli, if they have lugs, and Campagnolo made dropout. I think Vitus frame parts like dropouts were usually used by companies outside of France as a lower cost alternative to Campagnolo stuff.
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Yes, but now I know that it is as least something Reynolds would put their name on :-) ....and as it was sold by a Classic brand (Kildemoes) the quality should be ok. I like the geometri of the frame so I can post Pictures when the bike is ready......if I can find the thread when times comes :-)
#41
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I'm still wondering if that frame is virtuous.
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I am going to build a bike on this Vitus TT frame. I am interested in if somebody knows which tubes are used and also how the tubes are assempled (e.g. Tig welded?). The fork has Tecnotrat written on the dropouts and I don't know if the fork was inserted later. I got the frame and fork as showed and will build a 10 speed flat bar bike. The frame is at a repair show to have the rear drop out space changed from 125 to 130mm and after this the frame and fork will be repainted. The Pinarello decals has been removed as it has never been a Pinarello. I can't give further information before I get the frame back (Pictures, Id number etc.).
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How is the single ring up front working out for you?
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The single ring is working perfect. I can use all 10 gears on the cassette without any troubles. The drive train is very stiff. I can stand up and apply all the force I have and I have the feeling that all the power is converted to speed. The shifting with the SRAM XO 10 speed micro shifter also works very well with the rear derailleur (SRAM Force). Very little break force is needed with the Ultregra breaks calibres. I needed some thinner cables that the ones supplied with the Shimano break levers on the flat bar so they were probably not meant to be used together.......but it works. Even with a thin break cable no "ferrules" is needed on the break calibres (I think they are designed that way). I can recommend the Blackspire Track rings......also to be used for street 10 speed. They are made of 7075-T6 aluminium and "CNC'ed" and very solid. There are no "cut outs" on the "rear" side of the ring so a bit heavy but very strong. The original Miche ring have "cut outs" to save weight.
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