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Zacks Schwinn Continental Overhaul

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Zacks Schwinn Continental Overhaul

Old 05-25-13, 04:51 PM
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Zacks Schwinn Continental Overhaul


So I picked up a box from the post office yesterday. Happy I got something, but disappointed I only have half of the bike. Check here for the back story(including photos) on this bike: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...l-in-the-mail!


My Dad did a great job with the packaging, that's for sure.


He even made smaller boxes for the seat and forks. But anyway, lets see whats inside.


First up, these rusty old plastic platform pedals. I dont think I'll keep these since as of late I have been using SPD...now flats feel insanely awkward and inefficient. This may turn out to be my daily to-and-from-work bike so maybe Ill keep platforms on it.


Next up is the bars/stem. I like these bars, I love these brakes and the stem is a stem. Ill probably clean the bars up with a wire brush, but the stem and brakes I want to really polish. I like the yellow covers for the lever handles. Does anyone know if you can put those rubber hood covers(you call them grips??) over the brakes?


Another shot of those beautiful bars.


Next we have a fork. Its pretty beat up. I like how the chrome crown is actually just a thin chrome cover. Not a structural piece. I can already tell this bike will have more..."patina" than I was hoping for.


The crank. Its got a bit of pitting going on. Not sure if this will clean up or not. I searched for 2-3 hours yesterday for some steel wool or wood bleach...No luck. On to Amazon or Fleabay


The backside looks worse, but I think this will clean up easier. Its just surface rust, grease, and dirt.


The brake calipers. Weinmann "Schwinn Approved". One made in West-Germany, the other in Switzerland.

Continued:

Last edited by TokyoZack; 05-25-13 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 05-25-13, 04:51 PM
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"Schwinn Approved - TYPE LC 2.7"


"Schwinn Approved - TYPE LC 2.3"


"Brake made in Western-Germany by Weinmann"


"Brake made in Switzerland by Weinmann" Being a 90's kid, this is awesome to me. Growing up it was impossible to find anything not "Made In China" in my house.


The brakes before I started cleaning them.


My wife was pissed. But hey, we eat dinner on the couch...so the dinner table is now my workbench.


After the cleanup. The only cleaning tool I had that really helped was this wire brush I got at a dollar store(Called DAISO...japans dollar stores are amazing). It came in a pack with a Silver wire brush, a gold wire brush, and a black one(seems like nylon) for $1. I also got these little rectangular polishing things that attach to a handle but they proved to tough for the aluminum.

Hopefully tomorrow I can start cleaning up the bars, stem, and brake levers. I really hope they come out good. My wife's due date was yesterday and the baby still hasnt come. If the thread seems abandoned for a few days, trust me, its not.

I will return!

Last edited by TokyoZack; 05-25-13 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Photo swap
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Old 05-25-13, 06:22 PM
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A bike project seems like just the thing for dissipating your understandable level of nervous energy!

I hope your wife understands. Is she perhaps restoring a Paramount in the garage(?) lol.
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Old 05-25-13, 06:26 PM
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This will be fun to watch. I Kool Lemon!
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Old 05-25-13, 06:40 PM
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Instead of steel wool, use aluminum foil and WD-40, lemon juice, or water to clean rust. Oxalic acid > wood bleach.
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Old 05-25-13, 09:03 PM
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so wait, dip the foil in wd-40 or lemon juice or water? or a mixture of wd-40 and lemon juice? Id prefer the water and juice as i could drink whatevers leftover
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Old 05-25-13, 09:48 PM
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I bought a big old car project the day before my second daughter came. Sold it right after the third daughter was born. Have fun!
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Old 05-25-13, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TokyoZack View Post
so wait, dip the foil in wd-40 or lemon juice or water? or a mixture of wd-40 and lemon juice? Id prefer the water and juice as i could drink whatevers leftover
Foil and one of the liquids. I use water. Steel wool will damage the chrome.
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Old 05-26-13, 12:34 AM
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Looking forward to seeing the end results.
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Old 05-26-13, 04:13 AM
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Found this magical toilet cleaner than dissolves rust. I'll post some photos soon.
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Old 05-26-13, 11:10 AM
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I LOVE the excitement in this thread.
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Old 05-26-13, 05:18 PM
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So I started some of the rust("sabi" in Japanase) cleaning on the little nuts and bolts, headset parts, cable brackets or whatever. I should have taken more BEFORE shots. I was rushing to hurry and get the parts in the solution before dinner so good photo's didn't happen. I did get to go to a Food Festival, and sit in traffic for a solid 3 hours. SamPol


First thing in the morning I stripped the bars and disassembled the brake levers. This all went pretty smooth, though the stem was a huge PITA to remove. Didnt have anything strong enough to pry it open with.


The stem and everything cleaned up really good without having to sand or repolish. Just a few passes with the wire brush and it was good to go.


For lunch me and the wife went to this food festival. It was okay...which means it was too expensive. You exchange your money for tickets, then exchange the tickets for food. Problem is your getting little samples of these restaurant's dish's, but your still paying 300-400yen ($3 or $4) for like half a serving. IT was also very hot and as usual, at events like this, water is extremely overpriced at 300yen a bottle.


Some people were beating on these drums. It was actually pretty awesome.


At the hardware store getting my rust cleaner, i spotted this: An imported Dodge Voyager mini van. Someone went to great lengths to have there very own Dodge minivan in Japan. I hope it is everything they dreamed it would be. Also, there is an awesome slammed Beetle with loads of negative camber. Almost everyone that walked by it stopped and took photo's.


I got home with a bottle of this "Sam Pol" toilet cleaner stuff. I kept thinking, why name your product SAMPLE...or maybe it was invented by a guy named Sam Pole? Idk, but it works.


I put the stuff in the stuff. And instantly, it started to fizz and bubble. I threw in all the headset peices, and bottom bracket pieces. Bearings, nuts and bolts. The worst part is i put the brake lever hoods in there and it destroyed them.


The parts after the soak. I know i didnt have a before photo, but i promise. They looks leaps and bounds better.


So everything looks great minus these brake hoods/bodies..whatever you call it. And thats where I am now. Ill try to polish them up, but they look un-repairable. I might hop on e-bay and buy another set

Thanks for following my progress guy!

Last edited by TokyoZack; 05-26-13 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Photo swap
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Old 05-26-13, 07:18 PM
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Fortunately, you only destroyed two of the most ubiquitous brake lever bodies on the planet. You should have no trouble finding replacements. Especially if you're amenable to Dia Compe bodies, which are identical to the Weinmanns, i.e. referring to that specific design that was manufactured under licence by Dia Compe.
Actually, they're probably not destroyed, but whether or not worth repolishing will depend on local availability of replacements.
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Old 05-26-13, 07:34 PM
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Started sanding the brake hoods. This sucks. A lot more work than I wanted to do.





I'll work my way to 1000grit and polish with some toothpaste. Pictures soon.
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Old 05-26-13, 07:52 PM
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Looking at the bright side, from the weight weenie point of view, when you're done you will have removed some significant mass... j/k
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Old 05-26-13, 10:20 PM
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Well, I fixed them. It took 2 hours of my day but hey. I saved like $60 and shipping time.



I could have kept going to #1200 and then #1400 and #2000...but I dont want them to make everything thats attached to them look like total ****. I was also tired of sanding.

I got the bars all back together. Ill wait till they are mounted and adjusted correctly to re-wrap them. They honestly don't look that much different. They do work a lot smoother and you can even look inside and they are nice and clean. I used silicone spray lube so there's no trace of grease. After 20mins of bending and tweaking the levers you can pull back on them and they will fall right back down on there own with little to no resistance.







The stem didnt get much attention, just a few hits from the wire brush. I did spend some time on the stem bolt though, i really need a wirewheel.



The stem clamp bolt I actually successfully restored. I devised a way to attach aluminum foil to a screw, clamp the screw in my drill, and polish the chrome. It worked very well. A better photo might have proved my point better haha.





Moving pretty quickly here. Hoping to have all the parts I have totally cleaned up before the frame, wheels, and the rest it arrive. I've almost decided to order a set of 27" aluminum wheels, tires, and tubes from "BikeManForU". Price seems to be pretty good and I know he's really into bikes...couldn't see him selling totally-****-parts.

Could anyone confirm if these will work for me?
https://www.bikemanforu.com/products/...-rear-set.html
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Old 05-26-13, 11:13 PM
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That's a nice looking handlebar but I didn't catch the brand. Is it a GB Randonneur, or is it marked at all?
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Old 05-26-13, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TokyoZack View Post
Moving pretty quickly here. Hoping to have all the parts I have totally cleaned up before the frame, wheels, and the rest it arrive. I've almost decided to order a set of 27" aluminum wheels, tires, and tubes from "BikeManForU". Price seems to be pretty good and I know he's really into bikes...couldn't see him selling totally-****-parts.

Could anyone confirm if these will work for me?
https://www.bikemanforu.com/products/...-rear-set.html
Before you dive into what appear to be reasonable new non-vintage replacement wheels, have you considered looking for a set of period correct wheels? In my experience, there are plenty of them out there, especially 27". If you aren't in too big of a hurry, you can bide your time and jump on a bargain when it comes up. Ebay auctions typically last long enough that we can assist you with valuation of a particular set.
I've not been disappointed buying wheels from Ebay, as the sellers I've dealt with have been very scrupulous to represent them accurately.
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Old 05-27-13, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool View Post
Before you dive into what appear to be reasonable new non-vintage replacement wheels, have you considered looking for a set of period correct wheels? In my experience, there are plenty of them out there, especially 27". If you aren't in too big of a hurry, you can bide your time and jump on a bargain when it comes up. Ebay auctions typically last long enough that we can assist you with valuation of a particular set.
I've not been disappointed buying wheels from Ebay, as the sellers I've dealt with have been very scrupulous to represent them accurately.
These look okay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-36-Hole...item5aec5e4a35
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Old 05-27-13, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool View Post
That's a nice looking handlebar but I didn't catch the brand. Is it a GB Randonneur, or is it marked at all?
The only marking is "BRITISH MADE"...Cant find anything else.
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Old 05-27-13, 07:40 AM
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The continental I used to ride had GB randos on it, and they looked a lot like this. Mine were marked on the end of the drops, if I recall correctly.

Also, I've never regretting buying new wheels for a bike. On a Schwinn Continental, if it were my build, I'd prioritize usability over being strictly period correct. This thing would have been rolling on steel rims originally, so really, even a decent set of 80s aluminum rimmed wheels is going to stick out like a sore thumb as being non-factory-spec. I say just buy a new set for a few extra bucks, and guard yourself against the headache of dealing with old wheels. I've got bikes rolling on vintage wheels, but I've also replaced a number of them in frustration, after discovering flat spotted rims, seized up spoke nipples that looked fine before I started turning them, and in one case, a broken spoke that turned out to be functionally impossible to replace owing to it's length. Comparatively, buying a new set, getting a shop to check the true, and forgetting about it for the next couple years is definitely worth a couple extra bucks to me.
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Old 05-27-13, 09:57 AM
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Those are definitely GB rando bars, and they will have a GB logo near the "BRITISH MADE" stamping, however it may be faint and hard to read:



The "S" stem was also made by GB, and I wanted to warn you that yours has been previously damaged and "repaired". You can see what it originally looked like here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/261221151556



It originally came with slits in the side and a cone expander. At some point in the past it broke (probably at the ends of the slits) and to repair it somebody ground an angle into what was left and used a wedge type expander from another stem. I suppose the stem is still useable, however it will have to remain very low in the steerer, pretty much bottomed out. Just thought you should know, and if there are any "max. ht." marks they will no longer be accurate.
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Old 05-27-13, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Metacortex View Post
Those are definitely GB rando bars, and they will have a GB logo near the "BRITISH MADE" stamping, however it may be faint and hard to read:



The "S" stem was also made by GB, and I wanted to warn you that yours has been previously damaged and "repaired". You can see what it originally looked like here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/261221151556



It originally came with slits in the side and a cone expander. At some point in the past it broke (probably at the ends of the slits) and to repair it somebody ground an angle into what was left and used a wedge type expander from another stem. I suppose the stem is still useable, however it will have to remain very low in the steerer, pretty much bottomed out. Just thought you should know, and if there are any "max. ht." marks they will no longer be accurate.

wow, good find. I'll make sure to keep it low in the headtube.
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Old 05-27-13, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by not_jason View Post
Also, I've never regretting buying new wheels for a bike. On a Schwinn Continental, if it were my build, I'd prioritize usability over being strictly period correct. This thing would have been rolling on steel rims originally, so really, even a decent set of 80s aluminum rimmed wheels is going to stick out like a sore thumb as being non-factory-spec. I say just buy a new set for a few extra bucks, and guard yourself against the headache of dealing with old wheels. I've got bikes rolling on vintage wheels, but I've also replaced a number of them in frustration, after discovering flat spotted rims, seized up spoke nipples that looked fine before I started turning them, and in one case, a broken spoke that turned out to be functionally impossible to replace owing to it's length. Comparatively, buying a new set, getting a shop to check the true, and forgetting about it for the next couple years is definitely worth a couple extra bucks to me.

Im agree with you. I could get a nice old/vintage/period correct set of aluminum wheels but I dont really see the point. I think I'll stick with BikeManForU's wheels. I can order wheels, strips, tubes, and tires all in one shot.
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Old 05-28-13, 03:30 AM
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So I have entered round 2 of rust removal.















I have basically gotten everything ready to go, I'm just waiting on the frame and additional components to arrive in the mail.
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