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-   -   Fender bracket help (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/896942-fender-bracket-help.html)

E_merlin 06-20-13 04:05 PM

Fender bracket help
 
Does anyone have good recommendation for a fender bracket - something durable? I have been using reflector brackets, L brackets, and the all ultimately brake. Please don't laugh at my zip tie. This is for my LHT (it will be C&V some day) with 26" wheels and 50mm fenders - no that any of that matters.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rlin/photo.jpg[/URL]

What crafty solutions am I missing?

due ruote 06-20-13 04:11 PM

What kind of fenders?

I've never had a connection break like that. To me it suggests that you don't have something aligned right and you have stresses right from the start that shouldn't be there.

Also, what's up with Surly not providing a threaded boss on the underside of the bridge? Geez.

whatwolf 06-20-13 04:14 PM

you could try this , but I agree that something must be off.

http://store.velo-orange.com/media/c...r_bridge-3.jpg

E_merlin 06-20-13 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by due ruote (Post 15765232)
What kind of fenders?

I've never had a connection break like that. To me it suggests that you don't have something aligned right and you have stresses right from the start that shouldn't be there.

Berthuod stainless 50mm - I agree it could be out of alignment. It is evenly spaced around the tire and fits well. I guess if I have to replace once year I can.

JohnDThompson 06-21-13 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by due ruote (Post 15765232)
Also, what's up with Surly not providing a threaded boss on the underside of the bridge? Geez.

For my wife's bike I drilled a hole in the bottom of the bridge and used a pan-head sheet metal screw to hold the fender. It's held up fine for many years now.

I suppose if you wanted to get all fancy you could drill the bridge and pop a rivnut in there.

SJX426 06-21-13 12:03 PM

I had to be inovative as well:

For the rear due to the bridge not having a hole. Yea, I could have drilled one but I have this thing of leaving things as purchased or retorable to that state.
[IMG]http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7dde302d.jpg[/IMG]

In the front, I used a blank slot cover from one of my desktop PC's card cage:[IMG]http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5db38179.jpg[/IMG]

No the nut has not fallen off yet. The big problem is the lack of clearence for the brakes. The both rub the fender when applied. More in the front than in the back. With the clearence in the front I could have gone above the brake but then would not be able to release the brake for tire removal

due ruote 06-21-13 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by SJX426 (Post 15768139)
I had to be inovative as well:

For the rear due to the bridge not having a hole. Yea, I could have drilled one but I have this thing of leaving things as purchased or retorable to that state.
[IMG]http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7dde302d.jpg[/IMG]

In the front, I used a blank slot cover from one of my desktop PC's card cage:[IMG]http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5db38179.jpg[/IMG]

No the nut has not fallen off yet. The big problem is the lack of clearence for the brakes. The both rub the fender when applied. More in the front than in the back. With the clearence in the front I could have gone above the brake but then would not be able to release the brake for tire removal

On the rear you could slide the bracket back a bit (might need to turn it around) and zip-tie the sides to the stays. I believe that's what those protrusions on the brace are for. Worked for me anyway. But the OP doesn't have Planet Bike fenders, so this may be a moot point.

You could always throw some cantis on there and improve the clearance quite a bit.

due ruote 06-21-13 12:24 PM

Another option for the OP would be to put a P-clamp on the bridge, then run a bolt through the fender, through a spacer and the P-clamp, then a nylon locknut above the P-clamp. If you follow me.


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