campngolf

So I'm looking down the road a bit to the point where I have my UO8 dismantles, cleaned, parts replaced and ready for assembly. but I want to get the frame as pretty as I can before reassembly. It seems like washing and waxing are standard procedure. I'm wondering if anybody has use a clay bar on the paint before final wash and wax.

Years ago I clayed my minivan and was blown away by how much crap it pulled out of the paint. It left the paint smoother than I'd ever seen on any daily driver. I'm hoping to perk up the finish on my two Pugs and was wondering if other had used clay and what were the results.

Camp

kflagg 

I have used clay for years on my vehicles.I have since discovered the speedy detail cloth.Amazing find a bit expensive but can be used over and over and if you drop it simply wash it off unlike clay you throw away.Read reviews watch videos try it you wont be disappointed.

Keith

Michael Angelo 

I use Meguiars Scratch X, it will take off dead paint, and grime. Just be carefull around decals. Afterwards use a good paste wax.

https://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...cratchxreg-20/

rootboy 

It's the new clay. I like their #6 cleaner wax too.

oddjob2

Many C & V bikes paint are not painted with automotive grade paint. My Grand Record and a few other Motos comes to mind. I think clay would further exacerbate paint removal.

I too would be concerned around decals not under a clear coat.

busdriver1959

Clay is so much less aggressive than products like scratch x. I haven't thought to try it but it can't hurt. Like others have said, be careful around decals.

rootboy 

ScratchX is pretty tame, I think, but you have to be careful with it. I prefer the Mirror Glaze #6 . It's more of a liquid than a paste and
removes light oxidation, leaving a shiny, waxed surface. I reserve my ScratchX for marks and scratches.

auchencrow

+1
While I consider Scratch X as indispensable for rejuvenating weathered finishes, less is more when in comes to any abrasive cleaner. The Mirror Glaze is tame enough for that - and it's from Meguiar's, so I don't have to go out and pay extra dough on special cleaners for my Bugatti, Ferrari, Bentley, Masarati, etc.

DsmBerg

Clay won't hurt your UO-8 but there is probably a pre-clay step for scratch and minor oxidation removal you may be skipping. Clay is really a last-step and it won't have dramatic effect unless all the middle steps are done - particularly on an old paint job. I think Scratchx is a better product to clean up old paint and actually rubbing compound (gasp!) is my preferred method (no power buffing compound if you are a first timer - use a damp tshirt for application and removal in small areas). Good luck.

rootboy 

Only problem, for some, with Mirror Glaze products...I love them...is the lack of availability locally. Sometimes. Last auto body supply place near here went belly up 2 years ago.

But if you're a swell guy, your buddy will send you some.

20grit

Mirrorglaze is good stuff. I use one of them on my guitars.

rootboy 

Not an auto guy. What is this clay stuff, anyway? Rottenstone embedded in soft clay? Pumice flour? Diatomaceous earth?
Dylithium crystals ?

Gallo

I used to sell detail equipment and supplies for about 10 years

Clay is recommended after a good cleaning and before polishing or wax

The idea is that the clay bonds to fallout thereby removing it and some oxidation. The machine or hand buffing can be done and less scratching to the surface.

For cars any way the method would be wash, clay, compound (if needed), Polish (if needed) top wax

If i were to restore a frame I would probably go with clean thoroughly, clay with the spray product that lubricates the spray being careful around the decals and paint imperfections as noted. a good cleaner wax sometimes called a glaze such as MirrorGlaze as mentioned above, Mothers HandGlaze, Imperial Hand glaze from Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing (3M) and then top coat with a Carnuba Paste wax.

The glazes clean well and restore finish but do not last long. A good carnuba paste wax with no cleaners from any manufactuer is still today one of the finest top coats and will make paint glow.

I would recommend a clean sponge for glaze and wax application and a clean microtowel to remove glaze and wax.

letting glaze and wax "set up" or dry to a complete haze is critical

xuwol7

I just clean with simple green the polish with lemon pledge, seems to work well for me and it smells good(and bees love it..lol)

BeginnerCyclist

Is it safe to clay bar over a clear coat / glossy finish ? Mine have decals which is also clear coated, but I've added stickers.

thenomad

done it, it works.
often use three stages of auto clean/wax

The Golden Boy 

I'm giving her all she's got, Captain; she can't take no more!

Sir_Name 

I've used the Mothers clay bar/spray in the past and been quite pleased with the results. As others have said, it's a middle step. Even after a thorough cleaning the clay bar picked up a considerable amount of junk. My process was: soapy water - clay bar - carnuba wax - enjoy. The bike I used this process on has water transfers over the clear coat and I had no issues. Start small in inconspicuous places with a light hand and plenty of spray.

Bikedued

I have noticed that glazes are nothing more than a superlight abrasive with an "oil" in them that deepens color and adds a gloss. It will wash off most of the time. I have also noticed a disturbing trend in waxes and polishes. They seem to be all moving to a chemical type that softens and swells paint to hide scratches. Very disappointing as I started detailling and buffing out fresh paint right about the time that junk started appearing. I had my favorite of all time, 3M's Finesse It, soften the paint on my Lemond. It did NOT do that 15-20 years ago when I was working in body shops.,,,,BD

Italuminium

Interesting perspective, Dued.

Just a good clean and some wax for me.

noglider 

A slight diversion: I'm painting an old Raleigh International frame with high-gloss enamel paint, using a brush. I just put the second coat on and plan to put on at least one more coat on, perhaps a fourth. I am wet sanding between coats. What should I use after the last coat? Since it goes on a little rough, I'm thinking rubbing compound or polish at the end, to make it smooth and shiny. Suggestions?

Bikedued

Annnd.. On top of everything, some paint glazes seem to have the exact same consistency and smell as plastic lens polish, among some brands anyways.,,,,BD


If the paint is non metallic, a light sanding with 1500-2000 grit to knock down the brush marks, and hand polish with a decent compound. Automotive quality. Put a little dish soap in the water, and soak the paper until it curls up on it's own. If you hear a high pitched buzz while sanding stop immediately. It most likely will be a piece of dirt rolling along under the paper. That will leave a hellacious scratch in the paint. Using warm water helps too. Just be seriously cautious about bucket and frame cleanliness, and you should be okay.

garyus

Captain she's gonna blow. Send her up here Scotty.

Lazyass

When I replaced the white cables on my white 22 year old Paramount I could see how dull the paint had become. Went over the frame twice with Turtle Wax rubbing compound, then a couple of coats of wax. It's now a bright white again. You don't need to clay a bicycle. They don't go fast enough to get crap embedded in the paint.

Grand Bois

They don't go fast enough to get crap embedded in the paint.

???