1973 Super Sport Sunset Orange
#26
80's bikes FTW
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Dropping 2lbs + and getting rid of those stock cranks is TOTALLY worth it. Its not like its that much work and you just dropped a TON of weight off the bike. Those one piece cranks are gross IMO.
#27
Mr. Anachronism
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I use a #10 (M5) hex nut and a big pair of channel lock pliers. Works mint.
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#28
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I agree 100%, although removing the guard makes them slightly less ugly. I'm really looking forward to this, it's not going to cost a whole lot and should make for a good weekend project.
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I kind of like SSs also here are a few pictures of my 1973 Orange ones. Scooper's way of doing the crank swap is the expensive way to do it. The way Schwinn recommended starting in 1974 and sold kits for was to use a BMX conversion kit with a 1974 and up Le Tour crankset. Other cranksets can be used also. You can still buy the Bottom bracket at a BMX shop for under $25 for a good one. In the BB pictures there are two BBs. One as it comes and one with the parts laid out. Doing the swap this way with a used crank you should be able to get it done less than $50. Roger
#30
Decrepit Member
I took the Comp Triple crank off the bike, removed the bottom bracket and TruVativ adapter, and weighed it all. I also reweighed the Ashtabula crank, bearings, and press-fit cups.
The crank is the 53-42-30t chainrings version with 170mm arms. The crank with the crankarm bolts weighs 790g.
The bottom bracket with fixed and adjustable cups weighs 230g.
The adapter (two threaded ends and three steel bolts) weighs 120g.
That's a total of 1140g (2.513 pounds).
The Ashtabula crank with bearings and cups weighs 1910g (4.211 pounds)
The difference is a significant ~1.7 pounds.
The crank is the 53-42-30t chainrings version with 170mm arms. The crank with the crankarm bolts weighs 790g.
The bottom bracket with fixed and adjustable cups weighs 230g.
The adapter (two threaded ends and three steel bolts) weighs 120g.
That's a total of 1140g (2.513 pounds).
The Ashtabula crank with bearings and cups weighs 1910g (4.211 pounds)
The difference is a significant ~1.7 pounds.
#32
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It's so nice it became my favorite bike pretty quickly after I got it. My other regular rider is my 23" Le Tour so going down to a 22" wasn't that big of a deal. It rides nice and once people deduce that it isn't a Varsity or a Continental it gets some interesting comments and looks.
#33
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I've placed corks in the kickstand holes of my Super Sport, Sports Tourer and Continental. Chrome bar end caps should look sweet as well.
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#34
Junior Member
It's so nice it became my favorite bike pretty quickly after I got it. My other regular rider is my 23" Le Tour so going down to a 22" wasn't that big of a deal. It rides nice and once people deduce that it isn't a Varsity or a Continental it gets some interesting comments and looks.
#35
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Channel locks or C clamp https://www.bunchobikes.com/repair2.htm
#36
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Channel locks or C clamp https://www.bunchobikes.com/repair2.htm
#37
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#38
Senior Member
You just removed one of the most useful and functional (not to mention iconic) parts of that bike! Not that it matters, but I dissapprove. <g>
Last edited by Metacortex; 08-29-13 at 07:34 PM.
#39
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if it helps you any, the kickstand was too long anyway... It did stand up, but I had to be careful and it was prone to falling down a lot. Stuffed a wine cork in there.
#40
Senior Member
No problem, I'm just giving you a hard time. <g> I have a ladies' SS like that, not sure if the cause is in the frame bracket or the stand. I plan on comparing the stands to others I have just so I know the true cause. I think the stands are fairly consistent angle and length-wise so it is most likely a variation of the hand brazed mounting tube on the frame.
Last edited by Metacortex; 08-29-13 at 09:43 PM.
#41
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No problem, I'm just giving you a hard time. <g> I have a ladies' SS like that, not sure if the cause is in the frame bracket or the stand. I plan on comparing the stands to others I have just so I know the true cause. I think the stands are fairly consistent angle and length-wise so it is most likely a variation of the hand brazed mounting tube on the frame.
My old Superior had a threaded bottom bracket and no kickstand. So there. Nyah...
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#42
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#43
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Metacortex, respectively I disagree: Schwinn had no business putting the Varsity/Continental kickstand and stem shifters on the Super Sports and Sports Tourers. I feel the same way about using the one piece Ashtabula crankset on the Super Sport. The fillet brazed bikes were positioned just below the Paramount. Better components were used to set them apart from the Varsity/Continentals. But then Schwinn added all these extra pounds that were not needed.
I've always wondered why they did not stick with the 1968 S/S Tourer model? 15 speeds, TA crankset, no kickstand, and downtube shifters. This version of the fillet brazed could have been updated as components got better and the TA cranks made it possible for individual riders to easily gear the bike to suit their needs.
S/S Tourer is on the right.
I've always wondered why they did not stick with the 1968 S/S Tourer model? 15 speeds, TA crankset, no kickstand, and downtube shifters. This version of the fillet brazed could have been updated as components got better and the TA cranks made it possible for individual riders to easily gear the bike to suit their needs.
S/S Tourer is on the right.
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#44
Senior Member
I think they should have made the kickstand optional and/or installed an aluminum version on the fillet-brazed bikes, I heard rumors that one was in development at the time.
I've always wondered why they did not stick with the 1968 S/S Tourer model? 15 speeds, TA crankset, no kickstand, and downtube shifters. This version of the fillet brazed could have been updated as components got better and the TA cranks made it possible for individual riders to easily gear the bike to suit their needs.
#45
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I had no idea the Super Sport was such a conversation piece! I think I got 5 replies when I posted pics of my Le Tour a few weeks ago. I'm anxiously awaiting a crank puller and a truvativ adapter. I'll really appreciate this bike when It weighs the same (or less than!!) my Le Tour... I think the cranks and bb will even them out, I think a new alloy seat post and seat clamp will make it lighter than... I'm excited to ride it in tonight's critical mass!!
#46
Senior Member
The clamp w/binder bolt on the other hand is a massively heavy 3.0oz (85g) solid steel piece. Alloy replacements are about 1oz (28g) or less, but you need to find one that is 30mm and you'll need a new compatible rear brake cable hanger as well.
#47
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You don't gain (or lose) as much as you think on just the seat post. The 9" steel post weighs only 5.8oz (164 grams). A 300mm (11.8") alloy post weighs 5.4oz (153g), not much of a savings there. Of course if you cut the alloy post down to 9" that should proportionately drop the weight further to about 4.1oz (116g).
The clamp w/binder bolt on the other hand is a massively heavy 3.0oz (85g) solid steel piece. Alloy replacements are about 1oz (28g) or less, but you need to find one that is 30mm and you'll need a new compatible rear brake cable hanger as well.
The clamp w/binder bolt on the other hand is a massively heavy 3.0oz (85g) solid steel piece. Alloy replacements are about 1oz (28g) or less, but you need to find one that is 30mm and you'll need a new compatible rear brake cable hanger as well.
#48
Senior Member
A seat post with an integrated clamp like this would be considered an improvement functionally, however it weighs 314g or 11.1oz. The stock steel post weighs 5.8oz and the saddle clamp is 5.5oz for a total of 11.3oz. You'd only be saving 0.2oz with that change.
It's an excellent idea to save all of the original parts, they will increase the value of the bike if or when you ever decide to pass it on.
It's an excellent idea to save all of the original parts, they will increase the value of the bike if or when you ever decide to pass it on.
#49
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Funny thing I used to remove the porky kickstand but I had two buyers in a row ask me to reinstall them. Anymore I leave them on and ask if they want them removed. So far, no one has taken me up on the offer.
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#50
Still learning
I feel bad for DetroitSchwinn because his free Super Sport has already exceeded the cost of my 1987 AlbanySchwinn SuperSport and unfortunately will never get to 22 lbs.
After going over the bike today, new cables, housing, tires, a tube, bartape, bearings, and maybe pads. I estimate $60-$75, of which 1/2 would be tire budget.
After going over the bike today, new cables, housing, tires, a tube, bartape, bearings, and maybe pads. I estimate $60-$75, of which 1/2 would be tire budget.
Last edited by oddjob2; 08-30-13 at 09:18 PM.