What Bike is this?
 

I bought a used Bike yesterday from A guy who rebuilt it. I want to know what kind of bike I bought. The only marks on it I could find was a box with 3 horizontal lines inside creating 4 open areas followed by G2. He said it was an 80's Nishiki? Can anyone help?http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=339611

Well if it's Nishiki check out the Nishiki data base here at BFs there are nice examples of nearly every Nishiki made there.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...umber-Database
If I had to wag a quess I would go 82 International cheapely repainted.

we need a big bold sticky that is call "What kind of bike do I have: READ ME!"

It would include all the import things..

Drive side photos
close ups with examples of the all close-ups of all the lugs, drop outs etcs... It would explain how to check tube diameters, get your seatpost size and the differences in threading plus how to look for head badge holes... think how fast people jump on ID threads when all the info is posted in the OP.... you open a thread like this kind of excited. see one non-drive photo of poor resolution and don't even bother to read the post and hit the back button, right?

This is not a rant. it is a good and honest suggestion.. Now I am going to hit the back button and see if we already have this and if I am an idiot.

To the OP, we lots of close up high res photos of all the junctions of the tubes and the dropouts, the top and bottom of the bottom bracket shell, you should look to see what size seatpost you have and check the headset and bottom bracket threading... Sheldon Brown (google it along with bike terms) is a good place to start if you need further explanation.

Assuming it is a Nishiki, the huge (27") frame automatically narrows it down to two models and the presence of steel rims, if OEM, would further narrow that down to a Marina. Check the rear dropouts for a date code, format Gmmyy.

Even if it's not a Nishiki it's almost certainly an entry level model. Most manufacturer's only made these very large frames in one or two models and they were targeted at the most popular price point, which was typically upper entry level.

(49)

It looks too big for you for starters. I would ditch the aero bars, I don't see any point in having them on a bike of this level, or most any bike for that matter.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1378788432

Thanks. The Aero bars are the black "horns and cushions, Right?
Thanks
Cobber

(WHAT does this all mean, I will assume that I'll figure that out at Sheldon Brown) All close-ups of all the lugs, drop outs etcs... It would explain how to check tube diameters, get your seatpost size and the differences in threading plus how to look for head badge holes... think how fast people jump on ID threads when all the info is posted in the OP.... you open a thread like this kind of excited. see one non-drive photo of poor resolution and don't even bother to read the post and hit the back button, right?


I'm new to the blogging and biking thing.
Thanks
COBBER

No need to be smug. The contributors on the C & V forums are volunteer enthusiasts who enjoy sharing there expertise and knowledge, but some basic work is required by those making an inquiry or seeking input, like taking and posting photos to help with ID. If you aren't motivated or capable of doing that, try patronizing your local bike shop for free help.

Read mytenspeeds.com, a site authored by randyjawa, a frequent contributor to this board to learn the basics too. Enjoy your new ride too.

By the way, Sheldon Brown's site includes info from some of the experts who contribute here, like T-Mar, who weighed in above on your post. Look up Centurion on sheldon brown and you'll see an attribution to T-Mar.

language especially technical jargon like bicycle lingo can be such a barrier to simple communication.

Nice call on the Nishiki Marina, T-Mar. I think a helpful post is always nice for folks just getting used to the subtle nuances of bicycle identification. Posts like yours make beginners want to come back to this forum.

Try sailing and you will find bike lingo ez peasy.

hey, cobber, if that's you in the photo, the bike doesn't look too big. the standover on my bikes is 2" taller than my pants inseam, and i have more than 4" of seatpost showing atop the seat tube. (i stand flatfooted over all of them with ease, which is one of the most important size characteristics of bicycles.) that said, that bike is huge! i'm guessin' you're all of 6'6". am i close?

bg, i love that airplane clip.

I am 6'9" not smug and "Very thankful" for all of you for your input. I'm 58 yrs. old (arthritic)and moved away from a gym with a pool. Bicycling seemed a natural since I really need non-impact cardio. I really appreciate all the help. This is the first time in about 45 years I have done anything on a bike
Thanks to all
COBBER (Cobber means friend in Australia).

'friend,' i meant to add that the negative size comment was probably coming from the impression that the seatpost is 'slammed' all the way down in the seat tube, making it appear at first like the bike is way too big. at 6'9", i'd suppose it's a decent fit, and you merely need to raise the post to a normal level. i have mine as high as possible and comfortable. this is difficult to explain easily, but you should have only a slight bend in the knee when seated and the pedal is at the 6:00 o'clock position. at this position, you should also be able to straighten the leg, though uncomfortably so. i can only do so seated if the pedal is at 5:00 o'clock and there is some bow in my leg.

to mount the bike, stand over it, put one foot in the pedal, take off, then sit. don't try to sit first, as you cannot do so easily with a saddle at an appropriate height.

often, when i sell a road bike, the new rider will have a hard time sitting on the saddle before trying to ride the bike. it doesn't work like that. if you can rest a foot easily on the ground while comfortably seated, you're going to have a really tough time climbing any hill in that position, and will most assuredly be forced to 'stand and mash.' i seldom need to stand and mash, due to a proper saddle height.

enjoy your big black road bike, and welcome to the hobby and forums. stay safe.

At 6'9" , it may even be a bit small, but that's what extended seatposts and stems are good for. I think you may have a good bike there for starting out with, might change those stem shifters to bar ends or thumb shifters. Other than that, an overall greasing of the bearings in the steering tube, bottom bracket, and wheels will help get this bike ready for the road. Seen people (okay, me) start out riding on a lot worse bicycles.

Especially now that Americas Cup yachts are foiling. Everyone is just figuring out a common name for a foiling gybe. Flybe seems to be it.


But i digress, I too think it is a Nishiki (small chance an Azuki) The frame is huge. This size was created for the 38"+ inseam club.

You mean stuff like the spinnaker, jib and hawser? or is it howitzer?

Exactly.
Then there are the yacht racing rules.
Weather reading.
Wind prediction.
VPP
Etc, etc, etc.

And the days before GPS, oy!

Chart reading, an art in itself, before GPS.