To Brooks, or not to Brooks?
#27
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I would say brooks B17 here's my installation on my Trek....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvGM...e_gdata_player
#28
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Any bike that I ride any distance will have a Brooks, Wrights or Ideale leather saddle affixed. Anything less is confined to very short errand type rides.
#29
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LOL !!! - Trouble is, now I can't shift the visual of saddle - sniffing. Uuurrrrgh!
#30
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A Brooks with cracks in the top is not the end of the saddle. I have a 70's Brooks that is used several times a week. Got it on a trade for new gel saddle. The thing has cracks all over the top, and around the rivets, but the underside is solid. I soaked it in water (loosen the tension nut to zero) to take out the sag and tighten up the leather. I find it to be just as comfortable as my unblemished Pro on another bike.
#31
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Too true TiH. The 60's Pro I bought recently is cracking, but still solid and firm. A wonderful old saddle. Just have to make sure the cracks haven't developed too deeply.
#32
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Last year I picked up a Brooks Swift for $50 on CL! The former owner said is was too hard and I thougt, gee I'll give it a try. What do I have to lose, for $50 with less than a few hundred miles, why not! I install the Swift on my Gios and wow that is my most comfortable saddle I ever owned. So my suggestion is get those Brook saddles, you can't go wrong for the price!
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#33
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I've had good luck with used older Brooks. I haven't liked the newer used Brooks saddles I've picked up.
#34
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In the end I decided to spring for the Brooks Professional as it was in better shape, and for the price, I couldn't really say no to a useable Brooks. There is a good deal of 'patina' on the surface, and the underside was a bit dirty, but it seems like a very solid saddle considering its age.
I am just wondering whether I should try to hydrate it (surface and underside?), water-proof it, and try to clean up the saddle frame before using it? If so, should I stick to the 'Brooks approved' products?
I am just wondering whether I should try to hydrate it (surface and underside?), water-proof it, and try to clean up the saddle frame before using it? If so, should I stick to the 'Brooks approved' products?
#35
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In the end I decided to spring for the Brooks Professional as it was in better shape, and for the price, I couldn't really say no to a useable Brooks. There is a good deal of 'patina' on the surface, and the underside was a bit dirty, but it seems like a very solid saddle considering its age.
I am just wondering whether I should try to hydrate it (surface and underside?), water-proof it, and try to clean up the saddle frame before using it? If so, should I stick to the 'Brooks approved' products?
I am just wondering whether I should try to hydrate it (surface and underside?), water-proof it, and try to clean up the saddle frame before using it? If so, should I stick to the 'Brooks approved' products?
I just used Proofide on it; the surface crazing didn't go away but it's holding up well and is very comfortable.
For the rails, I'd just use a brass brush or brass wool to take off the loose rust, followed by a wipe down with a cloth soaked in vinegar to get rid of rust in the pits. A coat of wax or even WD-40 (spray it on a cloth and wipe it on to keep it off the leather) ought to inhibit new rust formation.
As long as there's no tears in the leather, particularly around the nose rivets, there's still a lot of life left in that saddle!
#36
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Can't ride a Brooks. It was a B17 that did in my prostate back in the day. I could not ride now without modern anatomic saddles.
#37
Jack of all trades
I would only use Proofide on the saddle, top only. I'm pretty convinced that it's seen "who-knows-what" in the decades previous!
#38
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But you might try cleaning it first. Won't hurt it. I use a short bristle brush and saddle soap, with just a little water, only enough to make a lather. Brush it in circles and wipe off with a paper towel. The saddle will get a little wet but the key is to not get it soaked. Just the surface.
That will help remove a lot of grime. Let the saddle dry thoroughly and then apply Proofide. On that saddle I would do both top and bottom.
That will help remove a lot of grime. Let the saddle dry thoroughly and then apply Proofide. On that saddle I would do both top and bottom.
#39
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The main thing about a Brooks is "no chaffing". They are firm and take a long time to conform to your butt and are very comfortable. I got a B17S meaning short for a slightly shorter nose and noticed it said "ladies model" on it. I didn't know it at first but I really love the comfort it provides and is almost as comfortable as my expensive "ride out carbon comfort" saddle I have on my main commuter. That is a bargain it seems, so go for it.
#40
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I neglected my Pro for over 30 years then started riding it again. Despite the condition, it is a great rider:
#41
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One comment reads about the B17 as having a negative effect on his anatomy. Did that to me too. I changed to a Pro and now never get numb nuts as with the B17 and B15, 15n. Never made sense. What could the difference be?
#43
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But you might try cleaning it first. Won't hurt it. I use a short bristle brush and saddle soap, with just a little water, only enough to make a lather. Brush it in circles and wipe off with a paper towel. The saddle will get a little wet but the key is to not get it soaked. Just the surface.
That will help remove a lot of grime. Let the saddle dry thoroughly and then apply Proofide. On that saddle I would do both top and bottom.
That will help remove a lot of grime. Let the saddle dry thoroughly and then apply Proofide. On that saddle I would do both top and bottom.
#44
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I had the opposite experience -- the Pro always seemed to be pressing in between my sitbones, but my B17, B17N, and B5N are all great. One of those mysteries, I suppose.
#46
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You might be interested in a thread that I have started in regards to an unusual saddle. I had/have a similar question to yours.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...6#post16251186
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...6#post16251186
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#47
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My first vintage Raleigh Sports came with a B-72 saddle. Both the bike and the saddle were well cared for and I loved the saddle. This past spring, I needed a new saddle for my road bike, so I bought a new Brooks B-17 narrow. I have a very narrow sit bone width. After about 200 miles and using Proofide regularly, I removed the saddle and put it into storage. Much chaffing on the inside of my thighs where they join with "taint". It probably isn't broken in yet, but I don't know if I want to suffer (really) anymore.
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#48
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Hey all,
I was hoping for a bit more guidance concerning this rescued Brooks. Firstly, I cleaned the saddle off with a slightly damp cloth and then dried it before doing anything. I proceeded to apply proofide to the top surface as well as the bottom - and it really needed it! it soaked up the first application fairly quickly, so I waited a few days after polishing off the extra and made a second and third small applications to the top surface, and cleaned up the brass rivets - so that they look like brass again - and some of the rust on the frame of the saddle.
I understand that one is supposed to apply proofide 'several times' during the breaking in period, but should I make any more applications before using it? Any thoughts? I have included some 'after' pictures below, and a surprising amount of the colour came back over the past couple of weeks.
I was hoping for a bit more guidance concerning this rescued Brooks. Firstly, I cleaned the saddle off with a slightly damp cloth and then dried it before doing anything. I proceeded to apply proofide to the top surface as well as the bottom - and it really needed it! it soaked up the first application fairly quickly, so I waited a few days after polishing off the extra and made a second and third small applications to the top surface, and cleaned up the brass rivets - so that they look like brass again - and some of the rust on the frame of the saddle.
I understand that one is supposed to apply proofide 'several times' during the breaking in period, but should I make any more applications before using it? Any thoughts? I have included some 'after' pictures below, and a surprising amount of the colour came back over the past couple of weeks.
#49
Jack of all trades
Hey all,
I was hoping for a bit more guidance concerning this rescued Brooks. Firstly, I cleaned the saddle off with a slightly damp cloth and then dried it before doing anything. I proceeded to apply proofide to the top surface as well as the bottom - and it really needed it! it soaked up the first application fairly quickly, so I waited a few days after polishing off the extra and made a second and third small applications to the top surface, and cleaned up the brass rivets - so that they look like brass again - and some of the rust on the frame of the saddle.
I understand that one is supposed to apply proofide 'several times' during the breaking in period, but should I make any more applications before using it? Any thoughts? I have included some 'after' pictures below, and a surprising amount of the colour came back over the past couple of weeks.
I was hoping for a bit more guidance concerning this rescued Brooks. Firstly, I cleaned the saddle off with a slightly damp cloth and then dried it before doing anything. I proceeded to apply proofide to the top surface as well as the bottom - and it really needed it! it soaked up the first application fairly quickly, so I waited a few days after polishing off the extra and made a second and third small applications to the top surface, and cleaned up the brass rivets - so that they look like brass again - and some of the rust on the frame of the saddle.
I understand that one is supposed to apply proofide 'several times' during the breaking in period, but should I make any more applications before using it? Any thoughts? I have included some 'after' pictures below, and a surprising amount of the colour came back over the past couple of weeks.
#50
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I'm a big fan of the Brooks B66. Just got a brown one to put on my Schwinn New World. The sun makes it look sort of red, but it's a nice medium brown color.
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