jonwvara

Years ago, I stupidly--no, the correct word is "ignorantly," I guess--had my Gitane TdF repainted, even though the somewhat patina-ed old paint was basically intact. I'm abashed to think what it cost me. Now that that coat of paint is getting somewhat shabby, I'm thinking of having a local auto painter--who also does an occasional bike frame--restore it to something like the original color on the cheap, on the theory that a somewhat low-end paint job is probably closer to the bike-boom quality finish it had when it left the factory. I'm hoping it might look pretty good again if I spring for a set of reproduction decals. I'll try not to think about the brazed-on shifter bosses, cable guides, and other ill-advised changes that I can't afford to reverse.
Anyway, here are a couple of questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me.
First, any guesses as to an automotive paint color that might approximate "criterium violet?" No one on the Gitane forum seems willing to hazard a guess. I don't have a sample of the original paint to go by. It doesn't have to be a perfect match, but I'd like to have something that's pretty close. Or should I use something other than auto paint? What kind of clear coat, if any, did they use back in them days of yore?
Second, when the bike was stripped for the repaint (by Matt Assenmacher in Michigan) is it likely--or inevitable--that the original chrome got trashed? I'd love to reclaim at least the original chromed fork legs and fork crown. The seatstays and chainstays are a lost cause, since I had cable guides and a derailleur hanger brazed on, which must have wrecked the chrome in that area. Technically, I guess, the damage would all be on the drive side, but I'm not sure how I'd feel about riding a bike with one chromed set of stays and one painted set.

repechage

Quick and effective strip back then would be to sandblast it. Provides tooth for the paint over the chrome.
I would chemically strip it at this point as it keeps your options open.
The quick and dirty "braze-ons" over chrome would be with silver right over it, doubtful that was done, as it places all the hold of those parts between the plating and the metal. The chrome acts an an isolator.

I repainted an old French bike decades ago that had chrome forks and stays. It too needs a repaint now. I have considered restoring the chrome which I also sanded off to mount a shift cable stop below the chainstay where is ran above originally, so I fully understand your situation. Just remember at one time these were just out of date bikes, too narrow for a 6, nutted brake fixings and were modified to keep up with the times essentially, there were no organized vintage enthusiasts.

rootboy 

Jon, I can elaborate later but when I did the touch up on my purple TdF, the closest thing I could find, in hobby paints, was the Mopar color Plum Crazy. It's not spot on, but quite close. I had to add a drop or two of something I can't quite remember, and I never got it absolutely perfect…it's a very difficult color to touch up…but that would be a good start. Over white primer.

gsinil

Don't give up on the chrome yet...

I am currently in the process of restoring a De Rosa Nuovo Classico.
It will be totally custom including DIY chrome plating of the lugs and rechroming the chain stay. You can read more here.
So far it worked pretty well.

zandoval 

Not and exact match but well worth the time to buy a can and test - I love these rattle can engine paints as they are very resilient - Especially if you hang them up in a Texas attic during the summer for a few days after they dry - My first experience with these paints was painting and old UNIVEGA just for the summer so I could ride - I was expecting to tear the bike down and repaint over the winter - Five years latter the paint is still holding up with real good color - I can't complain...

Dupli-Color DE1640 Ceramic Plum Purple Engine Paint - 12 oz.

gomango

I've been following that thread closely and you have been quite thorough.

.......and successful.

Nice project, cool De Rosa.

bikemig 

I don't think you did anything stupid or ignorant in repainting your Gitane TdF; back in the day that's what people did to steel bikes. They were just bikes and sometimes they need paint and/or you wanted a fresh paint job. Now those bikes are vintage or classic and so the original paint job has some value to BF posters and obviously it has some market value as well. Plus there's a nostalgia thing going. But if you're talking about a rider that you aren't trying to sell, paint it whatever color makes you happy (including trying to restore it).

Hudson308 

Just be sure to stay away from Dupli-Color (or any brand) Lacquer rattle-can paint for painting bike frames. Once applied, the stuff is as brittle as glass. Bump it with a tool or bike part and it chips, even after proper prep and priming. If the can doesn't specify whether or not it's lacquer, look for the word "keytones" in the warning verbage. Learned that the hard way after spending a fair bit of time and money repainting this frame with Dupli-Color lacquers. You can barely see the first of many infuriating chips on the bottom head lug.

jonwvara

Very nice--I'll have to look into that. Not sure I understand how the process works, exactly, after a quick scan of the manufacturer's site. Would it be possible to re-chrome just part of a larger chromed area--for example, a brazed-on derailleur hanger? It seems like you'd have to strip the entire chainstay and seatstay and rechrome the whole thing. And wouldn't you need a substantial dip tank to do that? I'm also a little uneasy about the toxicity of the material. Still, it seems pretty cool.

jimmuller 

I was hoping from the thread title that this was about removing re-paint while leaving the original paint underneath. I have a Motobecane Le Champion frame with a user-applied layer over the original and I'm wondering if I could somehow get it back to the original.

JonV, you might just have to go with a real bike painter. At least check with Tobie at Hottubes in Shirley, MA.

Hudson308 

Jim; You may be disappointed even if you could get the top coat off without affecting the factory paint. My guess is the previous owner repainted for a reason. They may have done some sanding to prep for paint, as well. It may be worth a shot however to try your luck with lacquer thinner on a Viva paper towel on an inconspicuous area, like the bottom of the kickstand bridge if so equipped. This will remove weaker enamel (and lacquer, obviously) paints with a little patience, but the factory finish is usually tough enough not to be affected. I've even used acetone to remove rattle-can paint and factory graphics, but you have pay attention and stop rubbing for a couple hours if you feel the factory paint start to soften.

gsinil

Well, there is some conflicting information on their site: it states several times that you can't plate over chrome (not just chrome on chrome, but any other metal over chrome) but then I also read that one of the intended uses for the Plug N' Plate process (the one I used) is to fix scratches etc. on chromed surfaces like car fenders. Not sure how that would be applicable...
Long story short, I don't know and probably will have to try one day. On the other hand, taking off the old chrome isn't that hard…
I sanded down my chain stay (220, 300, 600 and finally steel wool) in less than 1h. Polishing with a cotton wheel in the drill to get it to mirror polish finish added another 30 min.
Not too bad giving the result and rewarding feel

Nope, look up their Plug N' Plate products…
Here's a link to Caswell's complete kit with an instructional video half way down.

BTW, I am working on setting up a blog with all the steps including the overall restoration progress of my De Rosa.
Once done I will post a thread with a link.

Cheers,
GS

jonwvara

I've never painted or wanted to paint one of my own bikes, though I understand how some people like to. What really dissuades me is that even if you only consider the cost of good-quality rattle can paint, sandpaper, etc., the cost is pretty comparable to what the local guy in my neighborhood charges: about $100 to media-blast off old paint, followed by a primer-colorcoat-clearcoat finish. If the DIY approach saved significant $ while still yielding a quality job, I might feel differently. But since that doesn't seem to be the case, it all just seems like way too much trouble and too many solvent fumes for me.

rootboy 

A hundred bucks? Well, I'd say that if he does a good job, that's a real deal. I am facing this dilemma at the moment, though I am trying to look at it like an adventure. I have never wanted to paint a bike either but now have one which plopped into my lap courtesy that nice fellow, Scott Ryder.

But the prospect of diving in, with all the strippers and prep work, is daunting. Ordering my new decals was the easy part.

Hudson308 

There's a local guy that does powdercoating in his garage, and charges $80 to blast & coat a frame & fork. At least a couple others here on the forum are as happy with his work as I am (see below). I'll likely never spray another frame, even if I had access to a spray booth.

jonwvara

Well, sure, if you're just talking about some old Schwinn you might as well go ahead and power coat...

No, just kidding. I have been thinking that maybe powder coat makes sense in my case, since with all the extra braze-ons and stuff, the originality of my frame is already pretty much out the window. In some circles, I believe, this would be called "letting the tail go with the hide."
Pastor Bob speaks very highly of an outfit called Race Metalsmiths, which does powder coating in the town of Wilder, Vermont. I love what they say about that town: "White River Junction is a pretty wild place, but the next town over is Wilder."

werwer2012

I have a cruiser frame that I just had a friend sandblast and having a body shop he also painted it a Candy Apple Green for my wife. I wanted to find out what type of paint he uses because I bought a compressor and HVLP spray gun so the next one I can do myself and he told me that he only uses Dupli-colour paint and clear coat. But he did say that if you sandblast a frame to use Epoxy Primer when I do it myself.

Hudson308 

uh oh. I probably shouldn't tell ya what I had him do to this old eye-talian one, then...

The Golden Boy 

That actually looks really deep- like there's depth to the finish. The same as my 1985 Trek, but apparently nowhere near as tough.

zandoval 

How much money you want to spend - How much of the rebuild do you want to do yourself - I guess this is the deciding factor on what kind and how you will get your paint job and other rebuild tasks done...

Best is to go with Powder Coat and official or remanufactured decals...

I guess I am one of your rat bike guys - I make sure my bike is preimo tuned and at a state of "Totalmente Balancia" - I'll chem strip and rattle can a bike in a heart beat and my Gettocals make do cause I'm a cheap ba*turd...

But I'll easily drop extra bucks into a compact crank, special cables, or derailuer pulleys... (compalining all the time about it - Ha)

Have fun and ride - Thats the rule...

Hudson308 

The paint turned out absolutely gorgeous, which is why it killed me to relegate it to garage wall art. My personal frame finishing preferences were forever sealed after that, especially after I saw the beautiful chameleon 'flake I can get applied (cheap, IMHO) by the "Powdercoat Man". My thing is if you're going to go through all the work to refinish a bicycle frame (or car, motorcycle, snowmobile, family room, etc), why not have some fun with it? Especially if it's not something rare or historically significant.

The Golden Boy 

Could you do a clear powdercoat over that?

jonwvara

AAAAAH! My eyes!

Hudson308 

Interesting question. The lacquer paint may possibly survive the 400 degree curing oven, but the decals under the pearl clear would almost certainly not. If it didn't have the decals, that might have been worth a shot as the frame isn't doing me any good now. Except as a teaching/demonstration aid (Remember... FAIL!!!). At some point I may try shooting it with (uncatalyzed) urethane enamel clear, after touching up the gaks. Who knows.

Hudson308 

Dang. He looked.