In praise of the SL-L422-S.
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In praise of the SL-L422-S.
OK, I've mentioned these stemmies several times, possibly to the point of annoying some of you, LOL, but I just now found some validation. It seems these were part of the SLR group, but these & the similar downtube one, were different from most of the Light Action parts sold at the same time. Most were either indexed OR friction, but these ones are friction only, BUT with a ratcheting action, somewhat like retrofrictions. I've tried a couple times now, to remove just the lever assemblies from the clamping assembly, but it seems like it's pretty permanently mounted. All I can see of that interior mechanism, is a round black plastic piece, and a spring sticking out of the top. But it works great, & looks pretty cool, I think. I included a pic of the assembly order, just in case someone ever gets a baggie full of parts. But has anyone ever figured out how to pull these apart? I'm not going to force it, but I kinda hope there's a way. Oh, here's a cool ad I found at disraeligears, showing the SLR group. https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/...9_scan_25.html
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I agree with you that they are nice shifters. I stopped short of removing them when I got to the point you did (no sense ruining good shifters). Anyway, I came across a set of the braze on shifters later. On an interesting sidenote, the ad from Disraeli gears shows the SL-431 shifters. Those can be removed from the mount easily and nicer braze on shifters can be mounted, giving you high end stem shifters. I know, I know, it's kind of a contradiction.
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Yep, I think this proves that "some" stem shifters could definitely be considered high-end. I noticed too, in the earlier pages of that catalog scan, that "New" 105, 600EX, and Dura-Ace ALL had Tri-Color markings right on the catalog pages.
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Agreed. I have a set of these, and they're the nicest stem shifters I've ever used. Lovely action and, I think, attractive. 'Course if you don't like stemmies, you won't like these.
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Stem shifters are quite good on the right bike.
A bike with a frame that's long and tall enough to keep the rider's knees from making unwanted contact with the levers, and also with a riding style where the rider perhaps isn't going so all-out that their forward lean, again, forces unwanted contact.
I do often upshift to a smaller cog deliberately with my right knee when using stem shifters, usually when riding my Supersport, and while climbing.
Now, if I can only master a double-shift downshift, knocking the front mech down to the 39t ring while immediately then knocking the rear mech down to a slightly-smaller cog, for a perfect half-stepping of the huge 52-39t gap...
I may have done that once. I know that I have pulled off a few downshifts.
One thing that Schwinn's Twin-Stik "stem" (steerer, actually) lever mount has is a good amount of forward offset, putting the shifter's pivots well ahead of the stem's centerline. Less knee contact results.
Certain of Suntour's most-bulky stem shifters offered two versions of the boxy stem mount housing, with either a forward offset or the more-common rearward offset.
A longer stem really begs for a forward offset imo.
As for those SL-431 shifters, while not actually a ratcheted or retrofriction design, but with a certain "detented" feel, what these shifters offer seems to be perfect calibration of friction level to a Light-Action or other modern derailer.
Since these never seem to require lubrication and since their friction level is preset and essentially self-adjusting, I would personally not take them apart.
What is interesting is that these SL431 shifters were often paired with index-compatible derailers, the first such derailers from their lower-tier gruppos, and as came stock on my Raleigh Technium 460, which was then more easily upgradable to use with STI shifters.
A bike with a frame that's long and tall enough to keep the rider's knees from making unwanted contact with the levers, and also with a riding style where the rider perhaps isn't going so all-out that their forward lean, again, forces unwanted contact.
I do often upshift to a smaller cog deliberately with my right knee when using stem shifters, usually when riding my Supersport, and while climbing.
Now, if I can only master a double-shift downshift, knocking the front mech down to the 39t ring while immediately then knocking the rear mech down to a slightly-smaller cog, for a perfect half-stepping of the huge 52-39t gap...
I may have done that once. I know that I have pulled off a few downshifts.
One thing that Schwinn's Twin-Stik "stem" (steerer, actually) lever mount has is a good amount of forward offset, putting the shifter's pivots well ahead of the stem's centerline. Less knee contact results.
Certain of Suntour's most-bulky stem shifters offered two versions of the boxy stem mount housing, with either a forward offset or the more-common rearward offset.
A longer stem really begs for a forward offset imo.
As for those SL-431 shifters, while not actually a ratcheted or retrofriction design, but with a certain "detented" feel, what these shifters offer seems to be perfect calibration of friction level to a Light-Action or other modern derailer.
Since these never seem to require lubrication and since their friction level is preset and essentially self-adjusting, I would personally not take them apart.
What is interesting is that these SL431 shifters were often paired with index-compatible derailers, the first such derailers from their lower-tier gruppos, and as came stock on my Raleigh Technium 460, which was then more easily upgradable to use with STI shifters.
Last edited by dddd; 01-26-14 at 02:54 PM.
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I have a set of the L422 shifters- I found them too stiff and FAR preferred the Sachs/Huret shifters. But I thought- I should probably get those out and give them a second chance- so I just went down to the basement, found the box and the bag... and bam... they're exploded all over the bag.
Is there some place that has an exploded diagram of how these go together?
I have a clamp on boss that I have some SIS shifters on- I could twistie tie those together- but the L422s... they have to be screwed on to something to hold them together apparently.
Is there some place that has an exploded diagram of how these go together?
I have a clamp on boss that I have some SIS shifters on- I could twistie tie those together- but the L422s... they have to be screwed on to something to hold them together apparently.
Ha!
I got it figured out- just had to look at some pix online- but pictorial evidence is definitely a good thing to have.
Thank you!
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