PeregrineA1

Ed Litton

Michael Angelo 

Getting that thin paint look is not that difficult. This paint job has nine layers. Including 3 clear coats.

rpenmanparker 

Is Bilenky doing his own painting now? He did an S&S refit for me many years ago and sent it out for paint. The frame work was first class. I can't say the same regarding the paint. The old frame had a bit of filler on it which was totally invisible under the old paint. During the prep for the new paint job, they removed the filler and just painted over all the flaws. I wasn't thrilled. If they are painting in house now, I would be much more confident.

Wulf

My brother had a frame at Ed Litton for repair and repaint. Took 2 years beyond the promised delivery.

jimmuller 

Michael-A, that is a beeyootiful paint job. Did you do that?

Michael Angelo 

Yes I did. Sanded with 600-1000 between coats. I could have polished the final clear coat, but I saw no need to. Still can in the future.

ScottRyder 

Top, I'm glad you're thinking of having the Mirella repainted .. I've been hearing good things about Circle A and can put you in touch with a friend who is having his Hetchins restored by them .. Have you gotten a chance to ride it yet?

Scott

love2pedal.com

Here are two bikes they did for me

Dawes-man

I have a Cyclart-painted frame and hate the decal - just yesterday I found myself yet again wondering how I could get rid of it. As repechage says, they should put it on the steerer. I have my frames painted by Argos in the UK and there's no nonsense like that from them. Among other things, Cyclart claims it allows them to do the work for less as they don't spend on advertising...

I agree about the overly glossiness of a lot of modern finishes and for my latest frame, a 1949 PARIS Tour de France, I've asked Argos to give it what they refer to as a 'Hilary Stone' finish, which I think involves adding matt paint to gloss to tone the shine down a little. It seems that modern paints tend to a shininess that wasn't possible back in the 40s, 50s & 60s and Hilary, who has his frames painted by Argos, came up with this in order to achieve a more period-correct finish. I have also heard of people having frames pumiced in order to dull down the finish of new paint.

repechage

My thinking with any painter decent communication is key and even then things can go haywire.

My thinking:
Photo-document the existing well, and apply measurements to key transfer placements to those images.
Do the transaction face to face if you can.
If shipping, think about how someone could repack the frame in the same box and packing effectively.
(I have done this, only 50/50 chance, but when it was not done the frame got damaged on the return)
On color... I am very particular. I trust Brian Baylis, but he is not seeking work, everyone else I will request and pay for a sprayout with me furnishing a section of tubing. Or, find out what paint system they are using an I buy the paint. Sounds silly but actually works pretty well. "trust but verify" to paraphrase Ronny Raygun. Ask for a splotch of lug accent color too if applicable.
Find out ahead of time how threadings are protected or not. Do you have that 3mm tap for dropouts and or access to a set of bottom bracket tapes? If you are using a cartridge BB instead of a traditional assembly, advise as some mask the BB shell faces. I provide sacrificial 5 mm fasteners for bottle boss and shift boss fittings. Same for the seat lug if so equipped.
If the BB shell is pierced, discuss how the inside of the shell can be coated, even only the epoxy sealer is applied, this provides peace of mind going forward.
On gloss and paint thickness if you have preferences discuss them upfront and give that guidance in writing, do not depend on the artist to remember stuff, your frame will be one of many, while you just get to focus on one.
Note chrome masking, style and placement.
Know if the frame, fork and ends are straight before you take it in. This avoids the hidden up charges of some and if things need correction it is done BEFORE the new finish.

Some of what I have advised will cost more, but painting a bike can get quite expensive and the possible extra 10-15% you spend will help avoid lots of dismay later when it is done and not quite right. No one wants to ask for a redo, and the painter will not be that excited either. Sometimes transfers are scarce and there may not be a second chance.

I also think there should be no surprises with the final bill. None. Anything else is just not sound business. If they can't come up with a not to exceed estimate that you can live with be warned, you will be unpleasantly surprised. I have been told that some who do wet paint sometimes use powder coat for the base layer, NOT acceptable to me.

Grand Bois

My avatar is a prime example of too glossy and thick. It's my own fault. I asked for it.

fender1

Yeah, I had a Dr. Deltron painted frame as well. The paint never really hardened and was sprayed on so thick, I could not mount the front derailleur without mashing the paint. Anywhere components were attached paint either had to be removed with a razor blade before installation or the paint was torn off by the component. Fun stuff.

rootboy 

I could be wrong but I associate the too-thick and glossy look with modern, automotive paints. Do you know what paint Dr Deltron used, Fender & Grand Bois?

But then, it could just be how it's applied. Maybe it is possible to put on a very thin coat, or coats, of modern plastic paint, but I kind of think the look of the paint on classics of the 60's and 70's was more a function of the paint itself.

Not to offend Michael Angelo at all…that is one beautiful paint job on his Carlton, but frankly, that looks too thick to me as well. Much better than most, however.

Perhaps it's just that most constructors back then just didn't put all that much time into it. A quick coat or two of top coat over one of primer, and they were done. Not of this multiple coats of primer and color coat stuff. Don't know. I'm just theorizing. But I'm interested as I am going to try my hand at spraying a frame this Spring, and I'm looking for a type of paint that will give me the same look as the paints used back in the 70's.

muzpuf

this is one of those threads where everybody choice was and will be the best option ...............................and what is my thought ............. "I don't always drink beer, but when I do, I prefer Dos Equis."

sloar 

The paint I use is lacquer, no matter how many coats I apply it never ends up very thick.

Drillium Dude

Interesting points, Scott. I've gotta agree that the older paint (while it may not be as durable) floats my boat better as it shows off good/great lugwork better. What's the point of laboring like hell to produce beautiful shorelines only to have their beauty covered up by paint that is too thick?

DD

rootboy 

I wish it came in more colors, Sloar. Maybe it does, but I haven't found it yet.

Grand Bois

Mine is painted with automotive urethane and a clearcoat that he claimed cost $300 per gallon. I asked him to a jet black where black is added to the clearcoat and each successive coat has less black in it. Like I said, I asked for it. The striping is real gold leaf. I had no intention of trying to duplicate factory paint.

I didn't have the problems that Fender had. The paint was not soft. The frame is metric, so the clamps are not too tight.

sloar 

Have you checked their website? They have more choices than I thought. Autozone just carries the basic.

Michael Angelo 

I just repaired a Peugeot Course, the top tube had over 10 layers of paint. This was a factory original paint job.

balindamood

My experience:

I thought the initial price was a bit heafty, but no one locally could do the fork repair/decal recreation.

They made a mistake. They owned up to it right away and fixed it.

They did a fine job.

I wish I could make the Cyclart decal go away, or be less conspicuous.

I would use them again for a similar restoration, but might check into some other options if they were available as the shipping really equalizes the equation.

Before:



After:



I still do not have it completely re-assembled as I am trying to reconcile what Mr. Moulton had for components when it left his shop versus what the original owner insisted it had. Other projects seem to have take some precedence.

rootboy 

I agree with that, Jeff. Just to be clear, to everyone, my mention of Mike's Carlton was in no way a critique of either Mike's skill or that bike. That is one of the most beautiful restorations I've ever seen. Only that modern paints look different than the older paints used in the 60's, etc.

I've even considered using One Shot sign enamel for this old Moto GR frame, but was advised it might not be a good idea. Not sure why. The guy didn't elaborate. As far as I know, it is just plain old enamel, and seems as though it might work as it is used on exterior sign work, etc.

rootboy 

Who's website?

sloar 

Duplicolor paint shop system.

rootboy 

Oh yeah, have checked there, thanks. Looking for a particular color. Pretty basic color, but no mas.
And I only need enough for the head tube and two seat tube bands. A tall order.