Shellac
 

I have used cloth bar tape many times and I have wrapped with twine but I have not ever shellacked anything on a bike.

Reading this convinced me that I should:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/...y-and-how.html

I am about to do a harlequin wrap on my son's road bike and want to make it as nice and durable as I can.

Will any ole' shellac do? Is there a brand/type that is better than others? Is there anything else I should be aware of going into this for the first time?

As a side note has anyone ever seen or themselves wrapped non-aero levers with twine?

Shellac doesn't have a long shelf life, so ideally it's better to buy the flakes and mix small amounts. That being said, I've always just bought the smallest size can (1/2 pint, I think) that was available at the LHS. You'll generally have a choice of regular or amber; results are fairly predictable and depend on number of coats. I usually do about 3 coats. When it gets too heavy it looks like one of those poly-dipped tables that peaked in the '70s.

I've never wrapped levers, but I bet someone has. Me, I'd rather have rubber there for comfort.

I use Zinsser Bullseye.

1. I use the cheapest stuff I can find, where I live that's Zinsser's, both the amber and clear varities work great for me. Personally, I think the mix out of a new can is a little thick, I prefer to thin it out further with more denatured alcohol before applying it to the handlebars. Thinning it out makes it easier to coax the shellac into every nook or crevice and produces a more even coating (this is especially important if you're going to apply multiple coats).

As far as shelf-life goes - shellac has a shelf-life? A can of prepared shellac will become thick, 'muddy,' and eventually turn into a solid crust as the alcohol evaporates off over time, but you can reverse this process at will by adding more alcohol, giving the mix a stir, and allowing some time for the shellac to become fully dissolved again.

2. I wouldn't use twine on brake levers, I've played around with twine quite a bit and it's great for finishing tape or attaching cables, but it doesn't stand up to frequent handling. Even with a good tie and coating or two of shellac, it doesn't take much to displace a single loop of twine, and once one loop gets loose it's just a matter of time before the entire bundle comes apart.

Obligatory pictures of bikes whose handlebars I have shellac'ed:

http://s30.postimg.org/d6c133zbl/Falcon.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/bhgrnt08j/080813.jpg

http://s28.postimg.org/d66238v3v/image.jpg

Zinsser, its the only shellac I use. But not on my bike. Send away for Zinsser's "The Story of Shellac". Its a great read.

I also use Zinsser, clear. Works fine! I usually do 3 layers.

I went to a wood working place and bought flakes the first time, but mixed it so it was a little thin. It still worked fine. Now they don't carry flakes as apparently the lac beetle is in short supply. I use Zinsser in a small can and, for my tastes, mix about 1/3 clear with 2/3 amber. I used Tressostar Yellow cloth tape with shellac and came close to Honey color. Very nice.

This, from the wiki page states what I've always been told about it:

Liquid shellac has a limited shelf life (about 1 year), hence it is sold in dry form for dissolution prior to use. Liquid shellac sold in hardware stores is clearly marked with the production (mixing) date, so the consumer can know whether the shellac inside is still good. Alternatively, old shellac may be tested to see if it is still usable: a few drops on glass should quickly dry to a hard surface. Shellac that remains tacky for a long time is no longer usable. Storage life depends on peak temperature, so refrigeration extends shelf life.

Oh and as an aside, I've used black waxed twine to finish off black bar tape. It covers up the electrical tape used and looks nice. Because it's waxed it should be relatively fine in the weather.

ditto

Don't buy the Zinsser shellac. Buy their Sealcoat product which is actually a high grade dewaxed amber/blonde shellac. It lasts a long time in the can, has improved moisture resistance, and is less likely to get sticky over time as regular shellacs have a tendency to do. I frequently use shellac in my woodworking and Sealcoat is a superior product. I don't bother making up flakes into solution anymore.
http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...sanding-sealer

I did a leather bar wrap with hemp (because it lasts longer than cotton, flax, jute, or synthetic) twine, then Shellacked the whole thing about 10 years ago or more and the Shellac has held up fine. Of course you don't shellac leather because it won't work right so I did the twine and simply wrapped painters tape around the leather to prevent the shellac from getting directly on it. Also with shellacking the more coats you put on the darker it gets, so you simply stop shellacking when you reach the desire darkness.

I learned to do this by watch this video: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/twine.htm Only difference is my twinning came out tighter packed then what the Rivendell guy did.

How many handlebars would that 5 gal. bucket do?

I would imagine acrylic varnish would work too. Any sealer type product thats fast dry will seal cloth tape. Back in the day Shellac was the product used on everything from your house woodwork to canoes. I don't think it possesses anything unique other than tradition.

It dries a bit more flexible than varnish and some folks say it feels better on the hands. It'd be worth trying the varnish, though, just to try.
On oars and paddles a lot of guys don't varnish the handles because they say the varnish will give you blisters. Maybe shellac there would work better.

You can buy Sealcoat in smaller quantities.

Shellac has a unique quality with regard to compatibility with a wide range of finishes and makes an excellent sealer. It is commonly used to seal and provide a compatible coat between dissimilar finishes, hence the repurposing by Zinsser as a seal coat. Since it does not need to cure, you can recoat at any point in time, unlike polyurethanes. It is an easy finish to touch up if damaged. Other than table tops and bar tops, it's a great finish for furniture and my finish of choice for bookshelves and similar pieces. An acrylic finish isn't going to give you that nice honey color on tape that shellac will, especially not the water-based acrylics.

would this be the Brooks saddle color? and could I beg you to post a picture of the bike? thanks

I am referring to the name of the color "Honey" of a Brooks saddle. Unfortunately with the flash the photos of these shellacked bars don't really show how close they are in color. It's not an exact match, but it's close enough. I have removed those bars - they were on a 1974-75 Motobecane Grand Jubile. I now have Soma "Oxford" bars on that bike.

This wrap job is about 6 years old... it has darkened over time.

Base tape was yellow and the shellac was amber.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...mpathbars2.JPG

thanks; helps me decide what my next project will be!

thanks for the caution. great looking cockpit!