mattstuehler

All,

My kind sister recently gave me her old 1990 Trek 1400, and I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. To my untrained eye - it looks like it's in decent shape, but it hasn't been ridden in years. The good news is that the frame is the perfect size for me.

So...

Option 1: Scrap it, because it's not worth anything

Option 2: Get it tuned up for for the least amount of money possible, and make the best of it. But don't sink ANY more money into it. If something's non-functional, scrap the bike.

Option 3: Get it tuned up and replace any components that really need it. Would the bike be worth the $200-$300 this option might cost?

Option 4: Get it tuned up, and add a nice set of brifters (e.g., Shimano 105), and replace any necessary components. Assuming this strategy costs $400-$500 - would the bike be worth it with the new components?

Option 5: Replace everything with a new Shimano 105 groupset. While this will cost me $600 + labor - would it ride like a new $1,000+ bike?

In other words - I guess what I'm saying is that I'm willing (if necessary) to invest a decent amount of money into the bike if it's worth it. With a new 105 groupset - how would this bike compare to a modern bike? Seems to me that new bikes with a full 105 groupset run upwards of $1,500.

On the other hand - if you told me that investing decent money in 24-year old aluminum frame is a bad idea - that's something I'd like to know.

I guess what I'm really asking is...

1. What's the frame itself worth?
2. Which components still have value after 24 years, and which really need to go
3. Is it even possible to add brifters to an old frame like this? It had 7 speeds on the rear cassette - is there room to add a 9- or 10-speed cassette?

It's a really nice-looking frame, and I'd love to get some value out of this bike. But, if it's really past it's useful life - maybe I should just save the money and put it to a new bike?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

10 Wheels

put new tires on it and ride.

bane

Sweet bike, ride the crap out of it.

Start small, get it rideable. If you want to upgrade it later then go for it.

Also, make sure it fits you. If it doesn't fit, trade it in the Frame Doesn't Fit thread. The important thing is to get out and ride.

oddjob2

Depending on where you live, a complete tune and lube, commonly known as an overhauls, should run $150-$200, plus tires/tubes. New cables, housing, and bearings should be included in the base fee.

A 1400 in good nic is worth about low $300's. I wouldn't put new parts on it unless worn out.

mattstuehler

I'm replacing a circa 2000 Stumpjumper mountain bike that weighs 30+ pounds, so I really looking forward to commuting on a nice light road bike.

So - I'm leaning towards just a tune-up and new tires.

But - the downtube shifters bum me out a little - I love the idea of brifters. But... can I just add those (looks like they're about $150 on Amazon), or do I also need to replace the derailleurs and cassette? Is there even enough room between the rear stays?

Thanks again for the responses.

Essthreetee

Interesting timing. I have a friend wanting to swap the DT shifters for Brifters on his trek 1000, I have asked one member on here, but am curious to hear the responses here as well.

LesterOfPuppets

Woah. There are 30+ pound Stumpjumpers? Did they really make them that heavy? In 1994 the aluminum one was 24.2 lbs.

mattstuehler

To be fair - I use my Stumpy to commute to work. So - it's got full fenders, a serious headlight and taillight, a cargo rack, and a replacement Rock Shox XC32 that's pretty heavy. When the rack is loaded (bike pump, replacement tubes, tools, etc.) the bike weighs almost 35 pounds.

Stripped to the minimum weight - I'm sure it's under 30lbs.

It's a GREAT bike and I love it - I'm just looking forward to a 20lb road bike for distance rides on the weekend!

WNG

The best advice will be from an owner of one of these 1400s, as they know the drivetrain and frame. But IIRC, the 1400 is Trek's bonded aluminum offering.
I'd inspect the frame thoroughly before investing anything into it. If it's sound, it's road worthy and should be a satisfying rider.

If you don't know how to wrench yourself, and must pay a LBS labor and retail for your brifter upgrade, then I don't know how cost effective it will end up.
Learning to do it yourself is my advice. The frame should wedge a 130mm freehub on, so you can go the brifter route.
You'll need:
rear wheel with 8/9/10/11 speed freehub,
cassette,
a new RD (if you go 10/11 speed)
chain,
brifters,
cables, housing,
new bar tape.
TUNE UP: new tires, tubes, overhaul all bearings, wheels trued, bike wash, lube.

The cost effective alternative is to try to find a set of used 7-speed brifters to swap onto the bike and keep existing drivetrain.
Or install VO bar-end adapters to handlebar and move the DT shifters up the the bars.
You're looking at DT cable stops, new cables and housing, possibly bar tape, and the cost of used brifters or the bar-end adapters.

mattstuehler

WNG - first off - thanks for the great reply. I really appreciate all of the advice!

Re: this comment...

I was wondering about that exact point, since the frame has a 126mm gap. A little bit of Googling gave a wide range of opinions, but no consensus, on whether you can force a 130mm hub in there. Are you saying that shouldn't be a problem?

Seems like the Shimano ST-A070 7-Speed brifter is an option with my current set-up, but I don't like the way the cables stick out of from the side of the housing. So - I'm torn between a total overhaul (new wheel/hub/cassette/rear derailleur) just to accommodate a nicer brifter (e.g., 105 if I can scrape up the $$$), or contenting myself with the down-tube shifters.

I guess the advantage of the latter is that they're tried and true; I tend to prefer reliability/durability above all else, so maybe that's not so bad.

Anyway, thanks again.

poke em

Clean it up and ride it. You will find that the dt shifting is responsive and quick, and you might just like it. If you desire an upgrade after getting some miles on, then save up for a freehub, cassette, chain, and brifters. Keep in mind that the dt shifters weigh alot less than brifters, and lots of us prefer them.

The cheapest investment is the free one. You already have the bike, just ride the thing until you figure out if you need to change it or if you are content with what you have. Take it to your local coop and have them show you how to work on it.

RobbieTunes

The Trek 1400 and 2000 shared the same frame, but the 2000 came with Dura Ace, from what LBS told me back then. It's a nice aluminum frame. I had one for a while. I like the bolt-on FD clamp, because you could use a clamp-on in a pinch.

Yes, you can upgrade it to brifters, and if budget is an issue, try Microshift. It works well, is light, and very reasonable.

Mid-90's should be 8-sp, so it should easily handle 8/9/10 rear wheels. If it's running 7-sp now, then you can get the 8/9/10 rear wheel in there, but it's a knuckle-buster. I agree with staying DT shifters for commuting bikes, simple, reliable, less fuss.

RaleighSport

DT's aren't for everyone but the guys are right you may want to try them and form an opinion first.
I personally really enjoy brifters on vintage bikes so if you're going that route... Assuming your bikes 2x7 and not 3x7, here's a pair of brifters that will work with your drivetrain.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A07...&keywords=a070

Most likely you will also need these and a new cable set.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Shift-..._bxgy_sg_img_y

But you're looking at about 100 bucks flat on that, and it's fairly straight forward.

WNG

Shouldn't be a problem, only 2mm per side, and not realistically significant.

I'm like you, don't care the the looks of the dangling cable housing. And stayed away from brifters (Shimano) for the longest time. But it's a cost/looks issue.
You can look into the Campy/Shimano mixing to get around it to. Campy brifters, Shimano gears. But that's best for the experts to chime in.

Lascauxcaveman 

It probably doesn't need anything except new tires, unless it was left out in the rain a long time.

Lube the chain, get tires for it and off you go. A little WD40 squirted into the moving parts of the brakes and derailleurs wouldn't hurt either. If it ain't broke, don't think about upgrading it until you've ridden it at least a couple hundred miles.