Does Every Used Bike Comes with Challenges?
#26
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Oddjob and SailorB...
For all intents and purposes there's no such thing as Japanese threading.
JIS: Japanese Industrial Standard The JIS standard for BB's call for 1.370 X 24 British threading. The JIS standard for headset threading call for 1" X 24 tpi British threading
JIS standard headset use 30.0 diameter cups. It's the cups that determine if it's JIS, not the threading nor fork race diameter.
For all intents and purposes there's no such thing as Japanese threading.
JIS: Japanese Industrial Standard The JIS standard for BB's call for 1.370 X 24 British threading. The JIS standard for headset threading call for 1" X 24 tpi British threading
JIS standard headset use 30.0 diameter cups. It's the cups that determine if it's JIS, not the threading nor fork race diameter.
#27
Hogosha Sekai
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Oddjob and SailorB...
For all intents and purposes there's no such thing as Japanese threading.
JIS: Japanese Industrial Standard The JIS standard for BB's call for 1.370 X 24 British threading. The JIS standard for headset threading call for 1" X 24 tpi British threading
JIS standard headset use 30.0 diameter cups. It's the cups that determine if it's JIS, not the threading nor fork race diameter.
For all intents and purposes there's no such thing as Japanese threading.
JIS: Japanese Industrial Standard The JIS standard for BB's call for 1.370 X 24 British threading. The JIS standard for headset threading call for 1" X 24 tpi British threading
JIS standard headset use 30.0 diameter cups. It's the cups that determine if it's JIS, not the threading nor fork race diameter.
And personally I've yet to come across a bike that didn't have some unique challenge, but that's most of the fun. Nothing like defeating a PITA and feeling quite accomplished after.
#28
Senior Member
oddjob2, I don't flip my builds or rebuilds so when I have a problem, I just replace the part with a new one or something from the bin (which is very low now). If those were my bikes the Trek would see a new BB, the Raleigh a new headset and the MB would be guessed as reverse threaded until proven otherwise. 
To answer the title, there is usually some drama associated with rebuilding any aged mechanical item. That's the fun!
Brad

To answer the title, there is usually some drama associated with rebuilding any aged mechanical item. That's the fun!
Brad
#29
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Every. Single. One.
Trek 600 - original Imron paint was a disaster and unrecoverable (powder coat = $170); parts were dirty and under-lubricated, as well as beat to ****e (more expense required). Brake levers were partially bent and scratched. The saddle was a bad joke made from gel and spandex. The chain wouldn't work properly, requiring multiple installation attempts of new HG pins. The bar-end shifters wouldn't seat properly, causing mis-shift events in traffic.
RADAC - top tube was dented; chainstays were crushed by the previous owner's attempt to install a kickstand (repair was $300). None of those things were mentioned in his craigslist ad.
Maruishi - extended-reach brakes were required to make it work with 700c wheels. Back wheel was bent, requiring sixteen new spokes and a new clincher rim.
Peugeot PX-10 - where to start? Threadings and dimensions were French, so every major part had to be carefully re-fitted. The stem had to be sanded down to fit the French headtube. A previous owner had spray-painted the original finish (which was in bad shape) in glorious ironic fixed-gear matte black rattle-can, which meant powder-coating the non-chrome areas (another $170 job at King's). The derailleur hanger had to be tapped out to fit a decent non-plastic derailleur. The front derailleur clamp did not fit properly. The bottom bracket cups, supposedly French-thread, had problems getting past the chainstay and down tubes. Hub axles were bent, requiring replacement. Finding an appropriately-sized seatpost was agony.
Schwinn LeTour - Budget = $100. Schwinn internal stem diameter strikes again (bars flex back and forth). Also, the paint sucked. The crown race for the headset didn't fit properly and had to be held in place via Loctite. Pedal bearings were as dry as Death Valley. The Dura-Ace lockring I bought for it got lost in the mail. The seat is awful. Tires are kinda crummy, too.
Tommasini (current project) - Stem is way too long; paint is chipped on chainstays, seatstays. Bike has wildly inappropriate parts for a high-end Italian build (Shimano 105? WTF?); having spent far too much time being abused and under-appreciated in California. Front and rear wheel are mis-matched and were slightly out of true and under-tensioned (fixed). Shifting was absolutely horrid prior to swapping out the Sachs/Maillard gear cluster for Shimano. The seat (Selle Italia Mundoitalia) is a wretched ass-hatchet. Bar tape is ugly and uncomfortable. Despite these things it rides pretty well.
Trek 600 - original Imron paint was a disaster and unrecoverable (powder coat = $170); parts were dirty and under-lubricated, as well as beat to ****e (more expense required). Brake levers were partially bent and scratched. The saddle was a bad joke made from gel and spandex. The chain wouldn't work properly, requiring multiple installation attempts of new HG pins. The bar-end shifters wouldn't seat properly, causing mis-shift events in traffic.
RADAC - top tube was dented; chainstays were crushed by the previous owner's attempt to install a kickstand (repair was $300). None of those things were mentioned in his craigslist ad.
Maruishi - extended-reach brakes were required to make it work with 700c wheels. Back wheel was bent, requiring sixteen new spokes and a new clincher rim.
Peugeot PX-10 - where to start? Threadings and dimensions were French, so every major part had to be carefully re-fitted. The stem had to be sanded down to fit the French headtube. A previous owner had spray-painted the original finish (which was in bad shape) in glorious ironic fixed-gear matte black rattle-can, which meant powder-coating the non-chrome areas (another $170 job at King's). The derailleur hanger had to be tapped out to fit a decent non-plastic derailleur. The front derailleur clamp did not fit properly. The bottom bracket cups, supposedly French-thread, had problems getting past the chainstay and down tubes. Hub axles were bent, requiring replacement. Finding an appropriately-sized seatpost was agony.
Schwinn LeTour - Budget = $100. Schwinn internal stem diameter strikes again (bars flex back and forth). Also, the paint sucked. The crown race for the headset didn't fit properly and had to be held in place via Loctite. Pedal bearings were as dry as Death Valley. The Dura-Ace lockring I bought for it got lost in the mail. The seat is awful. Tires are kinda crummy, too.
Tommasini (current project) - Stem is way too long; paint is chipped on chainstays, seatstays. Bike has wildly inappropriate parts for a high-end Italian build (Shimano 105? WTF?); having spent far too much time being abused and under-appreciated in California. Front and rear wheel are mis-matched and were slightly out of true and under-tensioned (fixed). Shifting was absolutely horrid prior to swapping out the Sachs/Maillard gear cluster for Shimano. The seat (Selle Italia Mundoitalia) is a wretched ass-hatchet. Bar tape is ugly and uncomfortable. Despite these things it rides pretty well.
#30
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In five years of flipping , probably the worst one was a Moto Super Mirage , paid $50, didn't look it over real good (big mistake) . Rear wheel was warped , big time , rear drop was bent , figures . Oh, fork was bent , of course ! Broomed it for $50, quickly , before I noticed anything else wrong . On a positive note , current project , 1982 Trek 311 , is going very well !
Last edited by elboGreaze; 03-26-14 at 02:55 PM.
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Don't get me wrong...I've thrown away entire bikes because of issues. But I've also had my share of bikes that just need air and a quick cleaning. Most of it comes down to knowing what your buying...if its beat to death of course there're going to be problems.
I just bought a Colnago with a bad fork...rather than being a quick turn over bike it quickly became a part out. Oh well.
I just bought a Colnago with a bad fork...rather than being a quick turn over bike it quickly became a part out. Oh well.
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As a reply to the general query: it varies...
My Soma built up just like a new frame in a single evening; not one hitch.
My Trek was an seemingly endless series of landmines: every aspect of the build was utterly aggravating, from removing the rusted & seized OEM parts to discovering it was JIS spec (very unexpected)... stripping, de-rusting, repainting... all of it; building it was like a three-month-long root canal.
Once it was done though... ahhhh: so nice. I've ridden it damn near every day for the last two years and loved every moment of it.
My current project is taking a very long time (10 months so far), but I'm in no rush. I'm bring exceptionally picky and it's historically interesting; a fascinating exploration of old Japanese bikes.
My Soma built up just like a new frame in a single evening; not one hitch.
My Trek was an seemingly endless series of landmines: every aspect of the build was utterly aggravating, from removing the rusted & seized OEM parts to discovering it was JIS spec (very unexpected)... stripping, de-rusting, repainting... all of it; building it was like a three-month-long root canal.
Once it was done though... ahhhh: so nice. I've ridden it damn near every day for the last two years and loved every moment of it.
My current project is taking a very long time (10 months so far), but I'm in no rush. I'm bring exceptionally picky and it's historically interesting; a fascinating exploration of old Japanese bikes.
Last edited by DIMcyclist; 03-27-14 at 02:26 AM.