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Does Every Used Bike Comes with Challenges?

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Does Every Used Bike Comes with Challenges?

Old 03-24-14, 10:46 AM
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oddjob2
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Does Every Used Bike Comes with Challenges?

If it's not Motobecane doohickie thingies, it's something else! Let me start with three challenges this weekend brought. Any feedback, suggestions or advice welcome.

1985 TREK 560 - Picked this up yesterday in very good condition, not a lot of miles. In the process of doing BB maintenance, I pulled the Suntour Cyclone double crankset off and removed both Sugino sealed cups. No rust or stress on the cranks or bb, but note the fixed cup chipping. The vinyl gasket fits between the groove shown. Will it matter if I use a non-sealed set of cups? It appears that the vinyl gasket makes the bearing surface protrude deeper into the BB shell than a non-sealed cup. BB measured 115mm.



MOTOBECANE GRAND TOURING - Stronglight 93 crankset with normal crank removal tool threads and 9/16 X 20 pedal threads. Adjustable cup takes JIS 1.37 X 24 cup, but I'm used to two flats on the drive or fixed side. Any guesses if this is righty loosey? it's rusted really well.



RALEIGH OLYMPIAN - Huffy era. The fork steering tube seems to rattle around, no matter how tight the headset, and if I tighten all the way down it binds. Should I just replace it or am I missing something? It is the lock nut, the washer with notch, and the ring, which is an unconventional almost flat one, versus one that typically covers the upper cup.


Last edited by oddjob2; 03-24-14 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 03-24-14, 10:53 AM
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No, not every bike has challenges.

It's appears your tackling tasks that may be beyond your skill set....
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Old 03-24-14, 10:54 AM
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I don't understand the reference to JIS threads on the Motobecane.
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Old 03-24-14, 10:55 AM
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For that gorgeous 560 (I have the little brother 460) get an ISIS BB. No muss no fuss.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
I don't understand the reference to JIS threads on the Motobecane.

Corrected, thanks. The Stronglight cranks did not require the JA Stein Stronglight tool, a regular crank puller did the trick.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:00 AM
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what are you using to remove the fixed cup with?

Looks to me like a "Sheldon Brown" bolt and washer set up for help or primary effort was used.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:02 AM
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Trek, if you have cups that will fit, and you can make them fit, you're good to go.

Motobecane, I suppose it's possible the left side was retapped to English thread and the right side wasn't, though I'd consider this pretty unlikely. My guess is it's a left hand thread English threaded fixed cup. How tightly does the adjustable cup fit?

Raleigh, possibly the steerer tube is bent, or one of the headset races is not installed right?
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Old 03-24-14, 11:10 AM
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Any chance those 3 circles on the BB cup indicate Swiss?
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Old 03-24-14, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
what are you using to remove the fixed cup with?

Looks to me like a "Sheldon Brown" bolt and washer set up for help or primary effort was used.
You are correct. I sheared a grade 2 bolt going counterclockwise on the outside with my breaker bar socket and upgraded to a grade 5 bolt. I've also applied some heat. It has been PB blasted long enough to try from the loose cup side to see if it is lefty loosey.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
-- French thread being smaller than English.
French/Swiss is 35mm, English is 34.8mm. Anyone that "retaps" French to English is basically just messing up the threads. You can only truly retap to Italian.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:19 AM
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I have an old bottom bracket that came off a Peugeot, I have never fiddled with it but I would assume it is French threaded. Having benefited from the generosity of others here in BF I would appreciate the opportunity to return the kindness and send it to you if you want.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres View Post
French/Swiss is 35mm, English is 34.8mm.
Doh! I knew that. I'm going back to edit away my stupidity.
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Old 03-24-14, 11:56 AM
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The two Moto becanes I've had were either Swiss thread or Japanese thread. Both have the fixed cup threaded the proper way, not the French way. Just my 2 anecdotal cents.
Every Continental I've ever flipped had a bent rear axle, every british 3 speed I've ever flipped had a bent front axle and I don't think I've ever had a bike that didn't need at least a little fork alignment work.
Yes, it's a new challenge every day.
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Old 03-24-14, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
Corrected, thanks. The Stronglight cranks did not require the JA Stein Stronglight tool, a regular crank puller did the trick.
I was talking about your reference to JIS bottom bracket threads. Now you've got sailorbenjamin doing the same thing.
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Old 03-24-14, 04:46 PM
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If you think you are going to have an easy time flipping in the Detroit Metro area, you are in for a lesson in the real world. Every bike you touch will have been touched by a guy who thinks he knows what he is doing and was wrong. Every other bike will have been left outside for a couple of years, or in a damp MI basement. Fools errand, IME, and I have a lot of experience.
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Old 03-24-14, 05:31 PM
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Why are you removing the fixed cup on the MB? I would just clean it and regrease it.
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Old 03-24-14, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
You are correct. I sheared a grade 2 bolt going counterclockwise on the outside with my breaker bar socket and upgraded to a grade 5 bolt. I've also applied some heat. It has been PB blasted long enough to try from the loose cup side to see if it is lefty loosey.
I think that method broke up the inside of the other cup.

I think the machined grooves in the Stronglight cup reveal the thread type, my early Sutherland's is not at hand to reference though.
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Old 03-24-14, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ex Pres View Post
Any chance those 3 circles on the BB cup indicate Swiss?
I don't think so. Three rings on the cup doesn't correspond to anything:


Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition
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Old 03-24-14, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
I think that method broke up the inside of the other cup.
It's possible, but I do not use the Sheldon Brown bolt setup when two flats are available. After a nice PB Blaster soaking, I use the Park HCW-4 and hold it on with a bolt, nut, and a couple of washers. I just hand tighten the nut so the wrench doesn't slip off the nut. A couple of taps with a hammer or mallet to the wrench to get the fixed cup moving. Works every time.
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Old 03-24-14, 06:26 PM
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Read this with interest, and realized I have no interest in those type of used bikes!
In a general sense, 95% of the used bikes I see have some challenges, but nothing (normally) like you've encountered.

When I was considering buying a bike shop (should have, but I found another investor after it sold) I was told by the long-time owner, "over half of what you get in here could have been fixed twice as fast if the owner hadn't tried to fix it himself. You will come to love your women customers, because they just stop riding and bring the bike in."

That's stereotypical, but also indicates a certain mindset.

Every bike you touch will have been touched by a guy who thinks he knows what he is doing and was wrong.
I can definitely relate, even with bikes from wrenches who work part time. I figure they have to learn somewhere, but at least I mess up my own bikes.

Fine example: 1998 carbon bike, from a decent wrench.
Rear caliper seized up.
Seatpost binder bolt reamed.
Saddle clamp bolt reamed.
R bar end brake lever loose.
R cable housing compromised inside bar end brake lever.
Stem has a steerer insert that was in upside down, so the top cap wouldn't center.
1.125" spacers used on 1" steerer, and shimmed.
Front caliper clamp bolt reamed.

Much of this I chalk up to "using the parts on hand," and it took longer to get right than I anticipated, but also because I insisted on new cables/housing and the internal routing on older bikes like this is a challenge, to say the least. I still have a click on the top RD pulley, only on the smallest cog, that adjustment doesn't seem to alleviate. I'll get it done, as the bike is worth it. Some "challenges" are essential to overcome, for the build. Some are to be avoided, and some are just plain why I like to wrench. A couple of hours in the shop is excellent, even if I'm not always successful. I wasn't camped in front of the TV. I had my music to listen to, and no one to bother me. If I do things right, I get to ride the outcome.
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Old 03-24-14, 06:37 PM
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Yes. Every bicycle I've worked on has had one issue or another. I do take some pride in putting them back together (correctly). But it doesn't mean there isn't swearing and flying tools during the process.
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Old 03-25-14, 10:10 AM
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The Raleigh O, where are the spaces that complete the headset stack height. If something has been removed then the locknut will snug down on the fork steer tube before the fork is set in place. That could be why it is tight but still seems to rattle arond in the head tube.

Or am I reading this wrong ? Just trying to throw something out there....

On thread, YES many times I have had a work stop because of some small part missing or one part won't cooperate.
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Old 03-25-14, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
I was talking about your reference to JIS bottom bracket threads. Now you've got sailorbenjamin doing the same thing.
Well, I think that one MB was made in Japan. I saved that BB for years thinking I had something special (the frame got totaled) and then one day tried it because I was getting suspicious of it and it fit just fine in some English bike I had (or was it a Japanese bike with an English name on it? I forget.)
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Old 03-25-14, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
You are correct. I sheared a grade 2 bolt going counterclockwise on the outside with my breaker bar socket and upgraded to a grade 5 bolt. I've also applied some heat. It has been PB blasted long enough to try from the loose cup side to see if it is lefty loosey.
That's how you broke the Trek's BB cup.
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Old 03-25-14, 10:47 AM
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I'd say most bikes come with their own challenges but that's a big part of the enjoyment for me. Researching, looking for suitable parts, modifying. I spend countless hours doing that but then I'm not a flipper so I'm doing it for myself with no time constraints.
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