Lets see those crappy but functional homemake tools
#27
Fresh Garbage
#28
Really Old Senior Member
This is too simple to be crappy-
BB tool retainer-
BB tool retainer-
#29
Banned
1) big cheater bar -tubes on my hot rolled steel flat bar Chain whips .. with 3 piece 1/8" Chain master-links that join the chain to the steel Bar ..
2) a Machined Re-lube and flushing tool that Sun tour New Winner Pro freewheel bodies screw onto ..
the lube port is on the inside of the body of those .
3) A foot long steel bar threaded on the ends with Pedal taps , to straighten out a Bent pedal spindle of a pedal clamped in the bench Vise .
Un Crappy, Latter 2 machined for me by my [late] machinist, Father, 20 years ago .. shop in his garage, not mine..
2) a Machined Re-lube and flushing tool that Sun tour New Winner Pro freewheel bodies screw onto ..
the lube port is on the inside of the body of those .
3) A foot long steel bar threaded on the ends with Pedal taps , to straighten out a Bent pedal spindle of a pedal clamped in the bench Vise .
Un Crappy, Latter 2 machined for me by my [late] machinist, Father, 20 years ago .. shop in his garage, not mine..
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-28-14 at 09:36 AM.
#30
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My addition to the threaded rod headset press is to use the back end of large sockets as the pressure point.
Choose sockets that have nice rounded back edges and fit just inside the bearing cup.
That way you're helping locate it and pressing against the base instead of a flat washer against the rim like so many folks do.
#31
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Peanut butter wrenches aren't made any more, and the remaining ones are expensive. Socket wrenches are heavy. So aixaix (BF member) made this for me. Is it awesome or what?
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#32
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You want crappy? You got it. It's 11pm on a Saturday night and you just want to finish the bike before you go to bed...
The wooden thingee is a 'third hand' for holding brake calipers close to the rim while you get the brake cable length adjusted and the bolt tightened. I've got these in a couple of widths; and sometimes I just use a C-clamp instead.
The little notch on the Dollar Store kitchen knife is a thin 10mm wrench (also handy for brake work) and the large notch is a 36(ish)mm headset wrench.
The wooden thingee is a 'third hand' for holding brake calipers close to the rim while you get the brake cable length adjusted and the bolt tightened. I've got these in a couple of widths; and sometimes I just use a C-clamp instead.
The little notch on the Dollar Store kitchen knife is a thin 10mm wrench (also handy for brake work) and the large notch is a 36(ish)mm headset wrench.

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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#34
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Ditto for this:
Last edited by Camilo; 05-28-14 at 06:04 PM.
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Pedal cage reshaping device:

#37
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Open-end, 13/15mm wrench filed out to accommodate a Schwinn Varsity's front (9/16" or 14mm) and rear (5/8" or 16mm) axle nuts, seat rail clamp and seatpost clamp.
It's pretty light (being made from a dainty 99-cent store item, but works fine as long as the axle nut threads/washers are kept lubricated), and small/light enough for a jersey pocket.
It's pretty light (being made from a dainty 99-cent store item, but works fine as long as the axle nut threads/washers are kept lubricated), and small/light enough for a jersey pocket.

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^ Certainly, late at night the wenches are always more interesting

__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#41
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#42
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@WNG. I have thought of using wood for brake retainer too. Since I didin't have any wood around at the time, I found a big spring hand clamp often used in woodworking for holding items in place. It opens just enough to grap the pads, sometimes the caliper arms. The spring is strong so there aren't gaps between the pads and rim. One will do and will fit almost every brake, will fit between the spokes and have coated jaws too. Not crappy and not homemade but very functional.
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@WNG. I have thought of using wood for brake retainer too. Since I didin't have any wood around at the time, I found a big spring hand clamp often used in woodworking for holding items in place. It opens just enough to grap the pads, sometimes the caliper arms. The spring is strong so there aren't gaps between the pads and rim. One will do and will fit almost every brake, will fit between the spokes and have coated jaws too. Not crappy and not homemade but very functional.
So, I came up with a $0.99 alternative when I spotted these at Harbor Freight. Same idea you hit upon.

Tool Tip 1 par WNG555, sur Flickr
A mini clamp. Nice thing is it's pad is reversible and will spread. Can also be used as a 4th hand tool to stretch center pull straddle cables.
I didn't post it since I can't claim credit for making it. But a great cheap 3rd hand brake tool in a pinch. (pun intended.)
#44
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#45
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Haha! Like minds think alike. I used to implement the old tried method of a leather toe strap for a 3rd hand tool. But I no longer had straps with the adoption of clipless.
So, I came up with a $0.99 alternative when I spotted these at Harbor Freight. Same idea you hit upon.

Tool Tip 1 par WNG555, sur Flickr
A mini clamp. Nice thing is it's pad is reversible and will spread. Can also be used as a 4th hand tool to stretch center pull straddle cables.
I didn't post it since I can't claim credit for making it. But a great cheap 3rd hand brake tool in a pinch. (pun intended.)
So, I came up with a $0.99 alternative when I spotted these at Harbor Freight. Same idea you hit upon.

Tool Tip 1 par WNG555, sur Flickr
A mini clamp. Nice thing is it's pad is reversible and will spread. Can also be used as a 4th hand tool to stretch center pull straddle cables.
I didn't post it since I can't claim credit for making it. But a great cheap 3rd hand brake tool in a pinch. (pun intended.)
If you would, please adjust your way-back machine (which I'm sure you built from junk in the garage!) to three days ago, jump inside, and post this when you arrive...
I have, in the past, used a bunch of small rubber bands stretched between the brake pad nuts, inside of the rim, to do the same thing. I couldn't find a single god damn rubber band anywhere when I was about to deal with the same thing earlier this week!
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Anyone have a unique crown race setting tool? I am not too handy at building tools like you guys...but...have not sprung for this particular tool...
#47
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I thought that might be important too, Chuckk, not knowing any better as I hadn't ever done this task when I built my tool. But I turned those bronze "presses" to fit exactly into and on the flats inside a Campagnolo NR headset. But I'm not sure they'll work on any other model. Have only used it once, so far.
Glenn
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I had just started a job with a machine shop when I found this image online.

This is what came out of it, it's aluminum, but it's held up well so far.

It looks small in this pic, but that's 3/4" threaded rod there.
Not bad for pretty much the first thing I ever made on a lathe.
Not a tool per se, but I've been making a lot of delrin shims to mount modern stuff with a 31.8mm clamp to older bars. Turn it to 31.8 then drop a 1" bit or end mill in the end, the part them off. Hacksaw a slot to snap over the bars and you're good to go.

This is what came out of it, it's aluminum, but it's held up well so far.

It looks small in this pic, but that's 3/4" threaded rod there.
Not bad for pretty much the first thing I ever made on a lathe.
Not a tool per se, but I've been making a lot of delrin shims to mount modern stuff with a 31.8mm clamp to older bars. Turn it to 31.8 then drop a 1" bit or end mill in the end, the part them off. Hacksaw a slot to snap over the bars and you're good to go.

Last edited by IthaDan; 05-29-14 at 07:48 AM.
#49
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Mine is a 14" long chunk of 3/8"-wall aluminum tubing with 1-1/16" I.D. We've got a great steel yard here in Minneapolis that also sells odd bits in copper, brass and aluminum.
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#50
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My free, highly portable wheel trueing stand (fork was free and I already had the C-clamp. Runout gauges to be added as needed.