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Just had one of "those" fixed BB cups.

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Just had one of "those" fixed BB cups.

Old 06-23-14, 07:09 AM
  #1  
Bikedued
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Just had one of "those" fixed BB cups.

Early nineties C'dale M 500. The fixed cup took a wrench, hammer, and penetrating oil. It was tight as hell until the last thread or two. The surprising part? No rust, no corrosion, not cross threaded. No explanation for the effort involved. No shavings, and both sets of thread are in remarkably good shape. HUGE sigh of relief!! Just wondering why it was so dang tight. No evidence of loctite, or anything like it. Unless they used super glue?? I feel lucky now, better buy a lottery ticket!!,,,,BD
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Old 06-23-14, 07:15 AM
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Yeah, those can be really tight sometimes. I like the Stein fixed cup wrench, Tools_for_Cranks
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Old 06-23-14, 07:33 AM
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Precession is no joke. There's a reason pedals are left and right threaded and English BBs follow suit.
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Old 06-23-14, 07:52 AM
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Maybe a small end BB thread and a big end cup thread?
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Old 06-23-14, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Reynolds View Post
Maybe a small end BB thread and a big end cup thread?
Dull tools on each or one, and the actual dimension changes.
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Old 06-23-14, 08:59 AM
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@Bikedued - So was there cussing involved?
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Old 06-23-14, 09:39 AM
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Aluminum oxide buildup, just like an alloy seat post or quill. Heat would have helped in this case, as the aluminum bb shell would expand first.
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Old 06-23-14, 10:51 AM
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Yes there was cussing. Heat didn't seem to help and the threads wete super clean once it came out
,,,,BD
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Old 06-23-14, 12:41 PM
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One of my bikes was "professionally" redone- they didn't bother to grease the cups.

Took it to the LBS and it was 2 days of soaking in Break-Free or PB Blaster.
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Old 06-23-14, 01:09 PM
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Maybe the BB is slight oval?
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Old 06-23-14, 01:31 PM
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BTDT!
Mine was a cartridge BB in a Diamondback Sorrento SE aluminum frame. C-clamp, Park BBT22, 2 ft breaker bar, and another 2 foot pipe. Took a lot of torque. It surrendered and the threads were clean as a whistle.

I just went through Hell and back removing a seized SPD pedal off a road crankarm. Huge bench vise, Shop pedal wrench, detroyed 15mm combo wrench, rounded pedal axle, damaged vise jaws. Stripped the pedal down to the axle, used a Dremel to regrind flats, secured to vise jaws...slipped numerous times. But I ended up winning this argument when the 1/2" breaker bar slipped into the square taper, finally broke it free. Afterwards, I found some sort of dried grey gummy paste in the threads, I can only assume the previous owner used thread locker.
:-\
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Old 06-23-14, 02:29 PM
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unless painting the frame or replacing the bb, the fixed cup stays on.

but still ... my curiosity sometimes gets the better of me, and i'll give it a hard turn with a wrench 'just to see.'
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Old 06-23-14, 03:13 PM
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BB is completely shot. Spin the cranks and you could hear it from 10-20 feet away. I am robbing the full Deore LX group from the marble paint Sante Fe I found last year. It's pretty amazing how light or heavy the C'dales could be just from components and wheels.,,,,BD

I will probably sneak a paint job in there somewhere. It's not in horrible shape, but it's cookie dough with grass green and goldenrod graphics. It also has some deeply scratched and chipped areas. Can't stand it. Have not decided on a color yet.
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Old 06-23-14, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by eschlwc View Post
unless painting the frame or replacing the bb, the fixed cup stays on.
I usually pull the fixed cup everytime I rebuild my Raleigh RRA, every year or two. Not sure what the big deal is? That way, they never get stuck
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Old 06-23-14, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
Yeah, those can be really tight sometimes. I like the Stein fixed cup wrench, Tools_for_Cranks
I second the use of the Stein fixed cup wrench ! Just used one to rid my 89 Bianchi of it's worn out fixed cup. Worked like a charm.
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Old 06-23-14, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pars View Post
I usually pull the fixed cup everytime I rebuild my Raleigh RRA, every year or two. Not sure what the big deal is? That way, they never get stuck
i feel these things like square tapers and bottom brackets have a limited life, so i leave them in place unless certain maintenance is needed. i don't ride in the rain, so, once the bb has been overhauled, i leave it alone for at least three or four years. if it were my only bike, i might overhaul it every two. with hubs or headsets, i don't mind servicing them more often.
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Old 06-23-14, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by eschlwc View Post
unless painting the frame or replacing the bb, the fixed cup stays on.'
I know a lot of people do this, but I find removal is needed to do a thorough cleanup and careful inspection of the cup. Of course, I am starting with bikes where the bb has not been serviced in 30 to 40 years.

Now removal every year or two? Not so much.
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Old 06-24-14, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
I know a lot of people do this, but I find removal is needed to do a thorough cleanup and careful inspection of the cup. Of course, I am starting with bikes where the bb has not been serviced in 30 to 40 years.

Now removal every year or two? Not so much.
+10

Only 1% of fixed side cups have been a puzzle to remove in my comprehensive experience.
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Old 06-24-14, 10:05 AM
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You must be lucky. In my experience 1 out of 4 bikes have a frozen fixed cup.,,,,BD
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Old 06-24-14, 10:22 AM
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I saw a mechanic remove a very stubborn fixed cup by welding a 3/8" scrap piece of steel on it to hold in a vise, using the frame as a lever. It came out OK, but I thought maybe it was the heat that loosened it.
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Old 06-24-14, 10:39 AM
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I forgot to mention that I tried putting another fixed cup in it last night. You guessed it. It went in in about a turn and a half to two turns, then stopped cold. You can chase threads on an aluminum frame I hope?,,,,BD
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Old 06-24-14, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
I forgot to mention that I tried putting another fixed cup in it last night. You guessed it. It went in in about a turn and a half to two turns, then stopped cold. You can chase threads on an aluminum frame I hope?,,,,BD
Indeed you can.

In a pinch, or lacking proper taps, you can make a rather useful chasing taps out of a junk cup with good threads by filing a slot or two perpendicular to the threads- this creates a relief for chips and whatever you're chasing out to go. The key is to not bugger up the edges of the slot too badly while you file. Also works for bolts: find a sacrificial one and get filing.
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Old 06-24-14, 12:30 PM
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^ +1. You can use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the slots on a hard steel cup.
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Old 06-24-14, 02:00 PM
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I have a nice BB to put in. Alloy cups with adjusters on both sides, and replaceable cartridge bearings. The cups are stamped with the Specialized S, and I believe the spindle is stainless? It feels almost as light as titanium, but is the wrong color for Ti. Probably the lightest square taper BB I've ever held in my hands.,,,,BD

I am trying to keep the finished bike under 25, and hopefully as low as 23 pounds..
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Old 06-24-14, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
I have a nice BB to put in. Alloy cups with adjusters on both sides, and replaceable cartridge bearings. The cups are stamped with the Specialized S, and I believe the spindle is stainless? It feels almost as light as titanium, but is the wrong color for Ti. Probably the lightest square taper BB I've ever held in my hands.,,,,BD

I am trying to keep the finished bike under 25, and hopefully as low as 23 pounds..
Might your spindle be hollow/line bored through.
I have a French made, Bador "Competition" model BB with cartridge bearings and dual adjustable cups. The spindle is definitely steel (or lower grade, magnetic stainless steel), and I also found it to be unusually light. I discovered later that the spindle was hollow and concluded that's why it is so light......
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