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Newbie Needs Upgrade Advice On a Schwinn World Sport

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Newbie Needs Upgrade Advice On a Schwinn World Sport

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Old 09-05-14, 01:05 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ejaggers
BFisher,
I bought a donor ’72 Schwinn Breeze yesterday for $17 for the fenders which were in such good shape. The tires were horrorable and I couldn’t read the size of the wheel, but the guy told me it was a 27”. Got it home and it was a 26” so I can’t use the fenders. I can’t stock pile bikes like I do bass guitars or my wife will have a cow.

MRT2,
I saw that Nishiki thread, he did a excellent job. This looks like a perfect example of personal satisfaction being more important than street value, because he went all out. Although many members tried to talk him out of it, I have to tip my hat to Duane Behrens for such an outstanding job: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/923773-project-1980-nishiki-sport.html


eschlwc, Thanks for the info. All of that sounds reasonable (and worth it) to me. I really like the new brake levers/hoods, how much does that cost?

Has anyone else fixed up a World Sport**********
I have, but mine is a later '86 model, made by Giant, that has a double butted cro-mo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. Here is how it turned out:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ort-redux.html
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Old 09-05-14, 01:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wrk101
Cruiser is LAST on my list.

Vintage cruisers were almost all universally bottom end: really heavy, high ten steel or gas pipe frame, steel wheels, crappy brakes, any gearing included bottom of the barrel parts, often oddball tires. I can accomplish the same thing with a vintage rigid frame mtb, but enjoy much better brakes, much better frame, much better wheels, much better components, much lighter weight, standard tire sizing, same price = NO CONTEST.

Many vintage cruisers enjoy a "nostalgia premium" = price is higher than the build quality and bike utility would dictate. I am more into paying for utility/quality rather than perceived nostalgia. In my area, I cannot go half a block without riding up a serious hill. More/easier gearing = will be ridden more = mtb.
Okay wrk101, you’ve talked me out of a cruiser, but why a MTB over a road bike with bar like Paramount1973 above???
I’ve been looking at difference road bikes, and am getting familiar with them, but hadn’t looked at one MTB.


Originally Posted by Paramount1973
I have, but mine is a later '86 model, made by Giant, that has a double butted cro-mo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. Here is how it turned out:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/829016-black-swan-1986-schwinn-world-sport-redux.htm
Paramount1973,
The Black Swan is beautiful!!!
Can you help me understand each of your upgrades? Why are the components you’ve listed below better than stock?
For instance, other than less weight or appearance (black), seems like a crank is a crank. Help me out here:

1. triple Mirage crankset
2. Alivio MTB derailleur
3. 28.6 Suntour XCE bottom-pull MTB front derailleur
4. front chainring than the 30t on the Mirage and stumbled on a $6 26t
5. 700c wheelset from the LBS and got a set with
6. Shimano 2200 hubs and Mavic CXP-22 rims.
7. 8-speed SRAM 11-28.
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Old 09-05-14, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101
……Look at that list of mods you made to your guitar. Were there cheaper versions of any or all of those parts? Me I know nothing about guitars, so I would not know, but I am guessing there probably are…….
You are 100% correct, but the difference is that I know guitars, and I’m trying to learn about bikes, but it gets confusing and quick!!!

With guitars people do some U/G’s for bragging rights; I’ve done it too. For instance, on one of my basses, I replaced the cheap plastic nut with a custom nut made out off dear antler. It doesn't look any better, nor affect the sound. Some musicians will say they can hear a difference with this type of U/G, but in reality the difference is so slight if at all. Other U/G’s yield a big difference, but I know what to expect when I do them.

The reason I made the list above is that I have no idea what the expected result is, so I was hoping someone would explain. I read some of you guys post and ya’ll are talking so far over my head it’s a shame.

Really nice bikes BTW!!!
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Old 09-05-14, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ejaggers
You are 100% correct, but the difference is that I know guitars, and I’m trying to learn about bikes, but it gets confusing and quick!!!

With guitars people do some U/G’s for bragging rights; I’ve done it too. For instance, on one of my basses, I replaced the cheap plastic nut with a custom nut made out off dear antler. It doesn't look any better, nor affect the sound. Some musicians will say they can hear a difference with this type of U/G, but in reality the difference is so slight if at all. Other U/G’s yield a big difference, but I know what to expect when I do them.
Does a bone nut make a difference? To me, it's not a matter of looks or tone- the biggest thing a nut can do is allow the string to move in it. When you hear that *ping* either tuning or bending- that's your nut (or your saddles) releasing. It's not so much of a big deal on a bass, but with a guitar, as you play the strings bend- if you bend enough, the string can catch in the nut, and then there's greater pressure on one side and the guitar is out of tune. I may have bone nuts in my older guitars, but I use graphite powder in the slots regardless. I've changed my saddles to GraphTech- best $30 in gear I've spent. I didn't know you could play a whole set and not have to tune.
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Old 09-06-14, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
Does a bone nut make a difference? To me, it's not a matter of looks or tone- the biggest thing a nut can do is allow the string to move in it. When you hear that *ping* either tuning or bending- that's your nut (or your saddles) releasing. It's not so much of a big deal on a bass, but with a guitar, as you play the strings bend- if you bend enough, the string can catch in the nut, and then there's greater pressure on one side and the guitar is out of tune. I may have bone nuts in my older guitars, but I use graphite powder in the slots regardless. I've changed my saddles to GraphTech- best $30 in gear I've spent. I didn't know you could play a whole set and not have to tune.

If the nut is broken or the slots are too wide then of course it needs to be changed. But if it’s fitted correctly, I would bet $$$ you couldn’t hear the difference between a cheap plastic, and the same size Graph Tech TUSQ. The nut is taken out of the equation unless you’re hitting open strings anyway. On the other hand, what musician will admit to this, we’d swear that we could hear a mouse peeing on cotton 50 yards away, and he’s peeing in the key of F#.

Now quid pro quo:

Tell me why one crank is better than another, other than weight. I saw a crank on CL for $250, that’s twice what my bike is worth.

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Old 09-06-14, 11:58 AM
  #31  
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Once again, it's not about the tone- it's the string catching in the nut. Bone is less prone to it than plastic/nylon.

As far as cranks- it's a matter of weight, strength and pretty. Cast, hot forged, cold forged, CNCd... There's other things like cottered/cotterless- the BCD (which will determine what chainrings you can use) non-round chainrings, bent cranks, single, double or triple, trouser guard... There's a host of different issues that would determine what cranks you would or could use.
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Old 09-07-14, 10:21 AM
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wrk101, what happen to your posts??? I thought they contain very solid and straight forward information.
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