Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Late 40's BSA "club" bicyle.

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Late 40's BSA "club" bicyle.

Old 08-14-14, 03:03 PM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,737
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times in 8 Posts
597 mm is virtually impossible to get. I'd upgrade a club bicycle to 650B both because smaller wheels look good on it and its the size used on French cyclotouriste bikes of the period and good tires are now available in the size thanks to 27.5" MTBs.
NormanF is offline  
Old 08-15-14, 07:46 PM
  #27  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Time Trialer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 24

Bikes: 1948 BSA 3-speed with 3-cog Cyclo derailleur; Colin Lang- 1973 vintage all-Campy road bike, Schindelhauer Ludwig XIV

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by NormanF
597 mm is virtually impossible to get. I'd upgrade a club bicycle to 650B both because smaller wheels look good on it and its the size used on French cyclotouriste bikes of the period and good tires are now available in the size thanks to 27.5" MTBs.
That is an excellent suggestion. Tire choice looks interesting, but rims appear to be more limited. I was able to buy 40 hole 590 rims, but I have not seen a 40 hole in the 584 in the quick search I just did. I am setting this up to be rail trail capable with a fatter tire for loose surfaces. 650B might be a good choice for my spare SA hub with a 36 drilling.
Time Trialer is offline  
Old 08-15-14, 08:09 PM
  #28  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,809

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Liked 575 Times in 340 Posts
650A, 590, is probably the better choice. You can get Sun CR18 rims in both 32 and 40 hole drillings, and pretty good tires. Being closer to the original size, things like brakes and fenders will still fit.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-03-15, 03:17 PM
  #29  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Time Trialer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 24

Bikes: 1948 BSA 3-speed with 3-cog Cyclo derailleur; Colin Lang- 1973 vintage all-Campy road bike, Schindelhauer Ludwig XIV

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Been working on the bike a bit now that I have some time. I built up my wheels with CR18 rims and Panaracer tires. They should be great on some of the unpaved rail trails.
I have been cleaning up a set of Bluemel Lightweights that have been in the rafters for decades.
I previously mentioned that I bought a 44 T crank, but it is not going to work out. The original BSA arm/chain ring assembly is a lot thinner than the later Raleigh-made crank I bought. The Raleigh axle is longer on the chain ring side to accommodate this and the only Raleigh axle I have is for a wider BB so that won't work either. Has anyone ever removed a chain ring and re-installed it? If that could be done without destroying it, I would look into milling the arm down so it will fit the BB axle (line up the crank pin) and reattaching the chain ring. For now, I'll just put it back together as original.

At one time, I put some Motobecane mixte flat handlebars on the bike, but I found them too narrow for me. I bought some Nitto north road style bars and found today I do need a new stem as well.

I had to make up new brake cables. The originals are double-ended and they were stretched to the limit of the adjusters. I bought some karps for the cut end and had to file them down and shorten them to fit in the original levers. Not crazy about a karp, but short of manufacturing cable ends it is the best I can do for now.

I had a heck of a time finding axle nuts for the front Dyno hub wheels. I ended up scrounging in a drawer in a bike shop I work at in 1972.
Time Trialer is offline  
Old 01-03-15, 04:22 PM
  #30  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,809

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Liked 575 Times in 340 Posts
If your chain ring is swaged to the arm, I would consider that joint permanent. Getting the two apart and back together again without irreparable damage would be more or less impossible. Much easier to replace the chain or, better yet, just get bigger cogs for the hub.

The front dynohub takes a common size axle nut. Any bike shop should have them. They're the same as on the rear solid axle of all the cheap bikes sold today.

Double end brake cables are also reasonably easy to make. You need a good crimper (I use an old Bell Systems one, easy to get on eBay $10-15). Use that to crimp a spoke nipple to the cable. I know it sounds dodgy, but try it. You'll find it virtually impossible to remove once in place.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-03-15, 08:28 PM
  #31  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Time Trialer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 24

Bikes: 1948 BSA 3-speed with 3-cog Cyclo derailleur; Colin Lang- 1973 vintage all-Campy road bike, Schindelhauer Ludwig XIV

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great suggestion on the spoke nipple. As for the crank, I may just mill off the swage, cut it down and have it electron beam welded. It would be nice to have the option of changing the rear sprockets, but parts are not easy to find.
Time Trialer is offline  
Old 01-03-15, 10:57 PM
  #32  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,809

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Liked 575 Times in 340 Posts
Originally Posted by Time Trialer
Great suggestion on the spoke nipple. As for the crank, I may just mill off the swage, cut it down and have it electron beam welded. It would be nice to have the option of changing the rear sprockets, but parts are not easy to find.
If you can have that crank milled and welded as you describe, it shouldn't be hard to weld three cogs together to make a gear cluster to fit a splined AW driver. Alternately you could use a threaded driver (your hub may already have one) and put on it any freewheel you like.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-04-15, 05:16 PM
  #33  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Time Trialer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 24

Bikes: 1948 BSA 3-speed with 3-cog Cyclo derailleur; Colin Lang- 1973 vintage all-Campy road bike, Schindelhauer Ludwig XIV

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The crank is expendable. If it does not work out, I still have the original parts. The SA threaded driver, however, is not as it is a difficult part to find. If I break it trying to get the sprockets off, the character of the bike is completely changed. I would not risk it without spares, as this is just "nice to have" .

It looks like the Cyclo cluster has a special tool to lock down the cluster so a chain whip can be used to unscrew the sprockets.
Time Trialer is offline  
Old 04-24-15, 06:46 AM
  #34  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Time Trialer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: New England
Posts: 24

Bikes: 1948 BSA 3-speed with 3-cog Cyclo derailleur; Colin Lang- 1973 vintage all-Campy road bike, Schindelhauer Ludwig XIV

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did some updating over the winter to set up the bike for rail trail riding.

I bought Nitto North Road handlebars and a new stem to replace the original stem and a flat bar I installed decades ago that was too narrow for me. This meant new cables and the crimped spoke nipple trick worked perfectly for the double-ended cable issue. The only unanticipated problem is that the stem interferes with the headlamp unless it is up really high. I need to put some miles on the bike to find the most comfortable riding position and then I will deal with the lamp.

I built new wheels with CR18 rims and mounted Panaracer tires to get a more stable wheel for unimproved roads. I use one of my Dynohubs for the front wheel. The wheel I had had a Ross hub so it was a replacement. It has been so long that I don't remember if I put it on in my shop days or not. Very likely, as we used those wheels for bike repairs in the 70's.

My Blumel fenders finally came down from the rafters after 40 years. I still need to re-shape the mudflap.

A 44T chainring would be nice, but I want to keep the BSA crank. The new chain was a huge improvement.



Attached Images
File Type: jpg
600_2627-1 (2) (1024x684).jpg (105.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg
600_2629-3 (2) (1280x854).jpg (105.9 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by Time Trialer; 04-24-15 at 07:03 AM. Reason: add photo
Time Trialer is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bike Cottage
Classic & Vintage
12
08-21-15 08:39 PM
Steve Whitlatch
Classic & Vintage
8
06-07-15 05:39 AM
haz_bikes
Classic & Vintage
17
07-27-14 10:08 PM
randyjawa
Classic & Vintage
15
08-28-13 10:38 PM
Speedphone
Classic & Vintage
13
05-15-12 11:57 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.