Removing TA cranks with Stronglight puller
 

I've done some web searches, and I am reminded of stuff I used to know. TA cranks had a 23mm thread, and Stronglight had a 23.35mm thread (until 1982). Pretty much all other cranks use a 22mm puller. As I understand it, some people have managed to remove a Stronglight crank with a TA puller, but since the threads of the puller are slightly smaller than the threads of the crank, some have ruined their cranks this way.

Now, I have a TA crankset and a Stronglight puller. I might have trouble threading the puller in. If I don't have trouble, it should work just fine.

Right?

The best article I've found is this one by Sheldon Brown. I don't like his advice to use a TA puller on a Stronglight crank, but that's fine, as I won't be doing that anyway.

It might work, but Park CCP-2 crank pullers (which are no longer made, but have a TA-threaded side if you flip the head) are readily available for $15 or so on eBay. I'd do that if I were you. I did that, because I were me.

park ccp-2 | eBay

Edit: never mind. As others pointed out it's the CCP-1 that is TA-threaded. You may borrow mine if you like.

Boy. Good question, Noglider. Usually people have the opposite problem, having to go the other way. I did that for a while. Pulled my Stronglight 99 with my Park CCP-1, with a couple of wraps of teflon pipe thread tape on the threads. Never felt right but I did it. Then I bought the Stein tool for Stronglight cranks.

As you said, it's going to be a bit snug threading that sucker in there. Will it damage the soft threads in the crank? Maybe. And if you use your tool you might never be able to safely go back to the correct puller, should you want to.

Tricky proposition. I think if it were me, I'd go for it. Unless it's some super nice or rare model TA crank.

If you're in no hurry I'll send you the head of my CCp-2 to use.

Top

^+1. I would not chance enlarging the threads. Seems like a perfect excuse to buy another tool. ;) Note that the Park CCP 2 crank pullers in the link above do not have the double-end for both standard and TA cranks. I could be wrong, but I think it's the CCP-1 that had a double-sided nut for TA and standard cranks. They come up on ebay, too, but not as often.

Here's another useful rundown on crank and extractor options from that old stranger Kurt:
'The Headbadge': Square Taper Crank Extractors for Vintage Roadbikes

I agree with [MENTION=29368]rootboy[/MENTION]. If it is tight at all I would back out and not try it, unless you are willing to sacrifice a crank arm. If you do, then it would be interesting to see if the TA puller still works. The problem is that tolerances vary from crank to crank and puller to puller not to mention the amount of material wear to both. I doubt you could come to a comprehensive conclusion. Certainly not with a sample of one.

It is indeed the CCP-1

I don't want to be trite, but why don't you try threading the SL puller into the TA Crankset and get back to us? I'm also thinking that by using the SL puller, you could easily wear it down by .35mm; .02 inches

I have an extra [CCP1]one (somewhere) the weld to the handle broke .. need to fabricate a new handle .. D shaped hole , weld it on.

SL (that extra 0.35mm) did their own thing.. Sutherlands 3rd.. says their own separate, or .. "SL VAR 22, TA VAR 408"

The Park Tool will fit standard [<C>], TypeII(japan)& TA. .. [the flip over] .
Dont use the Park tool on Stronglight cranks.

Great Q. I'm just now thinking how did I remove the TA cranks on our tandem??? Can check later this evening but do know that this CCP-2 has been the golden tool for almost all..... almost with caution. You're welcome to borrow.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=402032

That's fine. My feeling is testing it with a little information and some opinions is better than testing it without these opinions and information.

I have to find the extra bit of chain that's going on the bike before I pull the cranks. I'm pulling them to put on a larger chainring. The cranks are pretty rare. They are 155mm in length.

Come to think of it, I can change the chainring without pulling the cranks, so maybe I won't be pulling them any time soon. Still, this thread has been helpful.

0.35mm seems tiny. In fact, it's a little surprising the difference is enough to ruin some threads. Well, no wonder it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't.

I feel lucky I bought this Stronglight puller long, long ago!

And thank you, [MENTION=43632]top506[/MENTION] and [MENTION=260407]jeirvine[/MENTION], for offering to loan yours! I don't think it will be necessary, and I will let one of you know if I'd like to accept your offer.

...I've been using a Park double sided puller for years on both TA and Stronglight cranks without incident. YMMV

If you simply purchase a hex head bolt of the correct threading and length and diameter (use the old thing on
the busted handle for a reference), you can neck it down on the end with a grinder to clear the crank hole and
use the thing with a box end wrench as the handle......it works way better than that stupid original handle.

+1 Just checked. The CCP-2 indeed fits the TA crank on our tandem. Good luck

It is one thing to compare dimensions of holes, another to compare threads. I don't know if there are other differences in the cut of the threads between the two dimensions. Remember the 23.35 represents the major diameter not the minor nor the thread pitch or angle. .020 may not appear to be much, and in 2alarmers case, may not make a difference either, but it does for some.

With a unusal crank lenght, I would not take a chance.

Center bolt on the Park tool is 9/16 X 24 tpi. That should be an easy bolt to find. Right? ;)

A couple problems with this idea: 1) the CCP-2 is single-ended, 22.0mm and won't fit either TA or Stronglight, and 2) the CCP-1 and CCP-2 handle shafts use different thread and thus the heads aren't interchangeable:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/park-ccp.jpg

TA went standard thread at some point. Cyclotourist, Professional and Tevano use the 23 mm size. What model is your crankset?

Cut them off with a hacksaw. Easy peasy.

That an interesting side by side, John. My CCP-1, the double ended tool, has what looks like the finer thread shaft, as in the top example in your pic. Mine is 24 threads per inch. Your tool shaft looks like a courser thread in the lower example. Odd.

Stoker is a triple and I believe is like a Pro 5 Vis and that uses an M22 extractor. Actually, thanks for asking and reminds me to double check all including the capt. crank. Lost in the year and models changes.

What gets me is we had the caps on the rear and a vintage rare bell disappear on this bike. Yep, but whatever and eventually had to find replacements. (Like the days finding the Benz gunsight ripped off the hood). Normally and for the majority of the bikes, I pull the dust caps and set aside but not with the 'gucci' ride with the 'bride'. I had some Stronglights thinking they would suffice, but they didn't fit. A very gracious and fellow C&Ver came to the rescue and all is back to normal.

Interesting that the extractor head on my CCP-2 looks different in length vs. this pic. Tired brain but thinking I purchased the tool in the 1980's?? Lazy but for all this talk, perhaps I'll check with a pitch gauge.

I would pay $40 for a T.A. puller before I'd risk using a Stronglight puller on my Professional 3 pin, and I did. At the time I couldn't find them anywhere but Yellow Jersey and they're no discount store!

...I actually do not recall, but as stated, the #1 and the #2 are threaded differently.

It proved impossible to come up with a bolt for the #2 , but the specialty fastener guy here took the old handle and driver from my #1 into the back and came out with several of them pretty quickly. Why park went to an impossible to replace threading on the #2 is grounds for speculation. #conspiracy