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Freewheel removal notch stripped!

Old 08-29-14, 05:42 AM
  #26  
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I love it how an original post-er kinda just takes off while the rest of us pontificate, cogitate and masturbate. FUN!
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Old 08-29-14, 05:49 AM
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[MENTION=29368]rootboy[/MENTION] - Nah how often does that happen? .....Nearly every post!
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Old 08-29-14, 06:02 AM
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I know. I learn a lot from all the seemingly superfluous posts, about all sorts of things like flying needles and such.
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Old 08-29-14, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Sorry about the delay. I was traveling a good part of yesterday and of course didn't have internet access.

There are multiple challenges associated with these dang New Winner freewheels.

As you can see, they use the adjustable bearing race/retaining ring which requires the special Suntour tool to open them up and service them. This makes dis-assembly on the hub very challenging. To do so, you need to remove the top cog(s), and I have met many a New Winner where the cogs do not budge and chainwhips and cog teeth break. To complicate the challenge further, I'd guess about a third to half of the two piece retaining ring/bearing race WILL NOT un-thread. Yes the percent is that high.

For all of the above reasons I recommend that these New Winners never be purchased, even if NOS. And if you do succeed in removing it, immediately trash it, or send it to me to attempt cog removal (I have about a 40% success rate). Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but these freewheels are truly a PITA and not worth salvaging.
Are you talking about the 2 or 4 prong new winner freewheels? I never liked the design of the 2 prong and as someone else mentioned the park 2 prong tool is not the best. I've never had an issue with the 4 prong and always thought that new winner freewheels were and are pretty good freewheels. I use these on my vintage bikes.
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Old 08-29-14, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Are you talking about the 2 or 4 prong new winner freewheels? I never liked the design of the 2 prong and as someone else mentioned the park 2 prong tool is not the best. I've never had an issue with the 4 prong and always thought that new winner freewheels were and are pretty good freewheels. I use these on my vintage bikes.
Specifically the 2 prong. But more specifically, the New Winner models with the adjustable bearing races. I've rarely had an issue with Suntour Perfect or ProComp freewheels.
[MENTION=29368]rootboy[/MENTION], you are just too bad! But I've been thinking the same thing!
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Old 08-29-14, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dddd
I saw one of these freewheels, in lightly-used condition, sell for about $150 last week on Ebay.

Was a six-speed with 13-26t ratios.

These things are really prized by some!

. . .
Wow, I just installed a NOS new winner on one of my bikes, 13-26 7 speed. Maybe I need to take it off before I devalue it too much?
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Old 08-29-14, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
[MENTION=29368]rootboy[/MENTION], you are just too bad! But I've been thinking the same thing!
I know. Forgive me. I shouldn't type until the drugs take hold….
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Old 08-29-14, 09:17 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Specifically the 2 prong. But more specifically, the New Winner models with the adjustable bearing races. I've rarely had an issue with Suntour Perfect or ProComp freewheels.
The Regina two-prong body is much more delicate and unforgiving in my experience. If you have a 13T outer cog, sometimes it helps to remove that cog to allow the remover tool to seat better on the notches. I think those Regina bodies were designed to hold only 4 cogs, and additional cogs just cobbled on top of the old design.
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Old 08-29-14, 09:31 AM
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I once knew a girl named Regina
who took lots of heat for her body
an old fashioned girl,
but certainly not shoddy
who still looks pretty good
if you've seen her.
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Old 08-29-14, 09:32 AM
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Please don't attack me about this. If the freewheel is junk, then....



I just went through this a couple of months ago with a "peeled" regina

It was wobbling badly so obviously had an internal problem. So, it was probably junk anyway, but we couldn't get it off to change it out.
(This was a Regina freewheel on a 1972 MERCIAN with a Campy Record hub. 40 years of time to get frozen.. This is the type of freewheel that just has two slots in the center hub, and the tool which has two tangs that go into these two slots)
I was at the LBS and "we" immediately wiped-out the center of the hub even though we were using the correct tool.

So, I bought it back home and first I welded the center of the inner hub to the outer freewheel part. Interior edge of the small cog to the interior flat surface of the freewheel. Had a little grease flaming but not bad. Then as you can see in the image, I welded a big nut to the outer cog. I then clamped the big nut in the vice and rotated the whole wheel and the freewheel came right off with no damage to the threads on the hub. This freewheel is now my paperweight.

and yes we had a skewer through the hub and clamped tightly on the tool to hold it to the hub, and the tool was clamped into the vice and we were gripping the wheel trying to turn the freewheel loose. The interior of the center freewheel hub simply peeled away.

My method took ten minutes and the heat transfer is part of this.. the heat expanded the steel freewheel during the welding process
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Old 08-29-14, 09:35 AM
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Good tip on the heat, Hoss. Wonder if the first step on removing an old Regina two-prong should be some heat if it feels like it isn't going to budge.
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Old 08-29-14, 11:50 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 1987
I would say the same for old Regina freewheels with tiny notches and where all cogs are threaded on. The cogs can be incredibly stuck. I had to use a very long steel tube for leverage around my chainwip. And on the second larest cog the chainwip broke. And the weak noteches are just a joke, you smudge them like butter.
I nearly destroyed a 2 prong Regina freewheel; sheered off part of the notch like the OP; using a QR. I took it apart and ground down another flat spot and almost stripped it again; again with a very tight QR this time. I then realized that the problem was the prongs on the Park Freewheel tool where slightly wider than the FW tool notches, so the prongs would not bottom out in the notches. I ground down the prongs a small amount and tried it again
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Old 08-29-14, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by onespeedbiker
I then realized that the problem was the prongs on the Park Freewheel tool where slightly wider than the FW tool notches,
Bingo. It's not a great tool for the job.
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Old 08-29-14, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
Bingo. It's not a great tool for the job.
Well it was after I modified it, but I guess that's your point..
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Old 08-29-14, 09:59 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions and further digressions. I managed to get the freewheel off tonight. I made sure to line up the less buggered notch with the prong of the tool that was in better shape. I tightened the quick release all the way, which I had not done before. When that still didn't work, I improvised a lever extension out of a steel post hole digger with a T joint at the top luckily just big enough for the handle of my big adjustable wrench to fit through. Feeling that sucker finally give made my day!

Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
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Old 08-30-14, 06:25 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by arimajol
Thanks for the suggestions and further digressions. I managed to get the freewheel off tonight. I made sure to line up the less buggered notch with the prong of the tool that was in better shape. I tightened the quick release all the way, which I had not done before. When that still didn't work, I improvised a lever extension out of a steel post hole digger with a T joint at the top luckily just big enough for the handle of my big adjustable wrench to fit through. Feeling that sucker finally give made my day!

Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
Glad you were successful! Nothing worse than to lose a wheel because of a stubborn PITA New Winner!

Lots of options for 7 speeds in that range. I just built a 12-32 7 speed Sachs for a C&V member but he's decided to go in a different direction. Lot's of inexpensive possibilities out there.
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Old 08-30-14, 06:37 AM
  #42  
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If you can live with 13-28 both Shimano and SunRace can help you out.

Top
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Old 08-30-14, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by onespeedbiker
Well it was after I modified it, but I guess that's your point..
Yes. It is sort of a cheaply made tool. I finally bought a VAR tool for my Regina freewheels, and it is a much more high quality tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Freewheel-Remo...AR+regina+tool

Last edited by rootboy; 08-30-14 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 08-30-14, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh

As you can see, they use the adjustable bearing race/retaining ring which requires the special Suntour tool to open them up and service them.
Rev, do you HAVE said tool? I have one of these on the Vitus, and while I was able to get the cogs off there might be issues in the future.

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Old 08-30-14, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by top506
Rev, do you HAVE said tool? I have one of these on the Vitus, and while I was able to get the cogs off there might be issues in the future.

Top
Yep! Even have a loaner I can send out like the local library.
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Old 08-30-14, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by top506
If you can live with 13-28 both Shimano and SunRace can help you out...

Does anyone make a 13-28t 6-speed freewheel any more? Looking for something under $30.
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