Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Worthy of Mountain Bike Drop Handlebar Conversion - 1995 Trek 820

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Worthy of Mountain Bike Drop Handlebar Conversion - 1995 Trek 820

Old 09-26-14, 05:47 PM
  #1  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Worthy of Mountain Bike Drop Handlebar Conversion - 1995 Trek 820

The mountain bike drop bar conversion thread here is one of my favorite. So many creative and wonderful masterpieces and, by what many say, they're a blast to ride. All my bikes are like 20", 21", 52 cm, etc. and all of them are too long in the top tube for drop bar conversion. Not by a lot, but basically I've removed all my drop bars and have other bars.

So I found on CL this 1995 Trek 820. The daughter is selling both her parent's bikes which they bought in colorado, rode a little, then hung them up high in their shop. She even had the receipt and the owner's manual (which I now have). The father's bike was definitely too big, but the bike I bought was 16.5". Top tube length is perfect for a drop bar conversion (not sure what particular drop bars - On One Midge or the like??). It is PRISTINE and I am positive it hadn't been ridden hard or ridden much. It's the "Ice Cyan Blue/Ice Indigo fade color.

The Altus brakes had grey plastic collars which are notorious for cracking, messing up the brakes, so I bought replacement Shimano Altus brakes (included pads), cables. Guy at Universal Cycles overheard me talking about the bike and called me over to show me his computer screen - apparently in 1997 Shimano did a big recall on my particular crank, as well as 2 others. So they're going to contact Shimano & I am getting a replacement crankset/bottom bracket/front derailleur and chain.

All is well this far. Repacked wheel hubs/trued and put Paselas on, repacked/adjusted headset, ultrasonically cleaned rear derailleur, new shifter cable. The saddle is raised to the maximum, which shows 6.75" of seat tube. That seems like a lot visually. I'll need to get a longer seat tube, as I legs aren't in the correct position. All the dimensions are good (stand over for a MTB, reach), but that much seat tube showing always makes me think someone's riding a bike that's too small for them.

How many of you have mountain bikes with lots of seat post showing? If you've got one, then is the bike too small for you?

Here are some close up photos. The paint is fantastic. Everything except saddle is original.

This shows the cracked plastic collar. This was so common there are even videos showing how to replace.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_3801.jpg (83.2 KB, 296 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3794.jpg (100.3 KB, 316 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3795.jpg (100.7 KB, 357 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3796.jpg (99.1 KB, 288 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3792.jpg (99.8 KB, 276 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3793.jpg (98.6 KB, 268 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3791.jpg (95.0 KB, 282 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3786.jpg (100.8 KB, 277 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3788.jpg (98.7 KB, 275 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_3789.jpg (97.7 KB, 263 views)

Last edited by Velocivixen; 09-26-14 at 05:48 PM. Reason: separate photos
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:04 PM
  #2  
Pompiere
Senior Member
 
Pompiere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 2,762

Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 304 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
I recently bought a Diamond Back hybrid with the idea of doing the drop bar conversion. The frame is a little small if I was going to keep it as a mountain bike, but with the extra reach from the drop bars, you need the shorter top tube. There is about 7 inches of seat post showing, but part of that is due to the sloping top tube. Right now I have trekking bars on it, until I acquire the parts to do the drop bars. I have the same brakes as yours, with the same cracking issue. I made a temporary fix by wrapping a zip-tie around it.
Pompiere is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:12 PM
  #3  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
@Pompiere - guys at the bike shop said that Shimano would send them big bins of those grey plastic collars for about 10 years. They finally quit and now make the "upgraded" model. Have you considered what drop bars you'd use? I have some Bontrager short/shallow that I was fitted to, but I'd have to get a quill to thread less converter, etc. Ugly. I do have several mid-'80's drop bars, but they've got to be comfy - short/shallow.

So we've both got the same project on our minds. Brake levers?
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:18 PM
  #4  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 18,458

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 158 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5086 Post(s)
Liked 1,657 Times in 1,090 Posts
The potential problem with a smallish frame in doing a conversion is finding a stem that gives you the right extension. The Nitto Dirt Drop stem is nice and high and I have one if you're interested.

What you want to do is to measure out your road bike and then figure out how to set up your MTB. Ideally you'll have a very similar set up with the mtb as with your road bike.
bikemig is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:25 PM
  #5  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
@bikemig - I've got the cheapie version of what you have. I have the Kalloy stem, which looks like a dirt drop. It's either 80 or 90 mm length. I put it up to the bike and it will get the bars up about 1" and measuring should get me where I need to be.

I could use stem shifters, but I have SunTour bar ends I could use. I like indexing though, and don't know if SunTour bar ends would look right on a mid-'90's bike. I wouldn't hesitate on a mid '80's bike.

What I really want to know is whether having, say 8" of seat post, looks stupid???

Last edited by Velocivixen; 09-26-14 at 06:28 PM. Reason: added
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:31 PM
  #6  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 18,458

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 158 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5086 Post(s)
Liked 1,657 Times in 1,090 Posts
Originally Posted by Velocivixen View Post
@bikemig - I've got the cheapie version of what you have. I have the Kalloy stem, which looks like a dirt drop. It's either 80 or 90 mm length. I put it up to the bike and it will get the bars up about 1" and measuring should get me where I need to be.

I could use stem shifters, but I have SunTour bar ends I could use. I like indexing though, and don't know if SunTour bar ends would look right on a mid-'90's bike. I wouldn't hesitate on a mid '80's bike.
You need to worry about the top tube length just as much as the height. That's a mighty short stem and the top tube length is probably not any longer than on your road bike given how small it is. A saddle with longer rails will help you here. That's why I went with a selle anatomica saddle (it has really long rails).

I wouldn't worry about period correctness; just get something that works right. Shimano bar ends work fine and it's no big deal to spread the rear triangle to fit a modern 135 mm rear wheel. I'm running shimano 8s on my drop bar conversion:

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_0065.jpg (97.1 KB, 340 views)
bikemig is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:34 PM
  #7  
Pompiere
Senior Member
 
Pompiere's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 2,762

Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 304 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
@Velocivixen - I want to stay with the 25.4 mm stem, too. I found the Origin 8 brand, Gary 2. They look like they were made especially for putting on mountain bikes. Nitto also has some nice bars in the classic Randonneur style. All the older drop bars are only 39 or 40 cm wide and I feel constricted after riding my new bike with 44 cm bars. I am looking for a couple pairs because I want to put a wider bar on my Miyata, too. I figured a set of brake levers from the parts bin, unless I run across something else. Cantilevers can use road brake levers.
Pompiere is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:36 PM
  #8  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
@bikemig - your bike is nice. You like more that road stem with horizontal stem portion? I actually have a Nitto Technomic I could try. I understand what you're saying about top tube length. That's what I'm trying to say. This bike has the perfect top tube and I have a variety of stems to try with varying height/reach.

I am interested in knowing what people think about lots (more than 6") of seat tube showing. This is a question about aesthetics. Does that much seat tube indicate you're riding a bike that's too small? Or is that more relevant when talking about road bikes?
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 06:43 PM
  #9  
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 18,458

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

Mentioned: 158 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5086 Post(s)
Liked 1,657 Times in 1,090 Posts
It's virtually impossible to set up a mtb with drops without a lot of seat post showing. If you rode a mtb with little seatpost showing, the bike would in all likelihood be too large. If you go back and look at the thread with the mtb drop bar conversions, they all show a lot of seatpost. The only question is whether you need a dirt drop style stem or whether a nitto technomic will work. I like the nitto better but then I like to have my weight a littler farther forward. The big deal is where your center of gravity as it; if it's off, the bike will ride a bit weird. In any case, this will ride differently than your road bike and will take a bit of getting used to.
bikemig is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 07:03 PM
  #10  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 36,725

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7135 Post(s)
Liked 2,495 Times in 1,326 Posts
I like a lot of seatpost showing. It was quite in fashion for MTBs by the mid-90s, since MTBs were still mostly XC machines back then and low-profile cantis or Vs allowed for tiny rear triangles and LOW top tubes.

Ned Overend liked a pretty long seatpost, and slammed pretty far forward, almost triathlon style.



Especially love those Barracudas, super low seat clusters on them.

LesterOfPuppets is online now  
Old 09-26-14, 07:11 PM
  #11  
Paramount1973 
Senior Member
 
Paramount1973's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: The First State.
Posts: 1,165

Bikes: Schwinn Continental, Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn High Plains, Schwinn World Sport, Trek 420, Trek 930,Trek 660, Novara X-R, Giant Iguana. Fuji Sagres mixte.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 7 Posts
Here is what I did with a 16.5" Trek 930. This is one size down from what I would ride as a mountain bike but has an effective top tube length of 54cm, right in my wheelhouse for a road bike. The handlebars are Civia Emerson short reach, short drop bars with a 26mm clamp diameter. The bar ends are Shimano 8 speed. I have been using it as my fair weather commuter. I love it and recently added cyclocross interrupter brake levers.


P4120228 by galoot_loves_tools, on Flickr
Paramount1973 is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 09:51 PM
  #12  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
I like a lot of seatpost showing. It was quite in fashion for MTBs by the mid-90s, since MTBs were still mostly XC machines back then and low-profile cantis or Vs allowed for tiny rear triangles and LOW top tubes.

Ned Overend liked a pretty long seatpost, and slammed pretty far forward, almost triathlon style.



Especially love those Barracudas, super low seat clusters on them.

Thanks for that article. I read what I could. Interesting about the geometries and how they evolved over time and with the sport.
@Paramount1973 - nice Trek. I'm still thinking about bar ends. I've got the SunTour friction only, I have Shimano 6-speed shifters mounted to bar end pods, but the bike is 7 speed and would like to keep index for awhile. Isn't there something about 6-speed SunTour Accushift shifters working with Shimano 7 speed rear derailleurs? Or do I have it backwards? Or is it both? Hmmmm.

See this is what I love about Classic & Vintage - tracking things down, reading up on things, researching. I love the research then trying to find the parts, then wrenching. It's sort of like art.
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 10:26 PM
  #13  
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,344
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 774 Post(s)
Liked 263 Times in 178 Posts
I wouldn't worry about the seatpost. Like others said, that's pretty common with mtb's.

Heads up re: the Kalloy stem. I'm using one with Midge Bars, and having fought the battle to get them through the clamp, I can't fully recommend it. The Nitto dirt drop must have a narrower contour where the clamp tapers, as others have reported that getting the bars through isn't a big deal with that stem. If you're determined to use the Kalloy, try this method. It worked for me, but I had to crank so hard on the bolt to open the clamp, I nearly put a hole through the dime. I can't comment on other bars, as the Midge is the only one I tried.
due ruote is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 11:01 PM
  #14  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
@due route - thanks for the heads up on that. Good to know about the Kalloy.

Since this is an experiment of sorts I'm thinking about using one of my drop bars from the '80's on it. That way if I don't like it I wouldn't have spent a lot. Brake levers though have turkey wings. Guess I could spring for some Tektro 341's for small hands.
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-26-14, 11:48 PM
  #15  
crank_addict
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,152
Mentioned: 93 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1361 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 393 Times in 258 Posts
Something a little different and more aggressive. I like it but still need a longer seat post. Could use a longer crank + big ring. Using a 1-Eighth track bar on a Profile H2o stem. Easily inverts for a more conventional set--up.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
schwinn hurricane a.jpg (105.0 KB, 316 views)
File Type: jpg
schwinn hurricane b.jpg (104.3 KB, 276 views)
File Type: jpg
schwinn hurricane c.jpg (101.2 KB, 271 views)
File Type: jpg
schwinn hurricane.jpg (99.1 KB, 264 views)
crank_addict is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 12:10 AM
  #16  
eastbay71
Senior Member
 
eastbay71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 691

Bikes: the bikes own me

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Can't wait to see your drop bar conversion. I've done 3 (16", 18" & 19") and I favor the shortest of them. Like others have said make sure you get the stem up high enough. I read an article ( Drop Bars For Off Road: On Set Up And Concerns ) where they were talking about setting up a drop bar bike. They said you should try to have the hooks even with the seat as riding in the hooks is where you want to be on the trail. Their reasoning was the hooks give you the most positive grip and you have the brake levers at your finger tips at all times. My favorite of the 3 is set up with Shimano Sora STIs so braking and shifting are right there. Bar end shifters are neat but not as convenient.
I've tried the On One Midge bar and the Origin8 Gary 2 bar. I prefer the Midge because the drop is not as deep and the dropped portion is much shorter making it easier to shift bar end shifters with your pinky and 3rd finger. Hope to see your finished product soon!


Commuter;

Lightweight;

Wifey's;

Last edited by eastbay71; 09-27-14 at 01:05 AM.
eastbay71 is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 08:21 AM
  #17  
a3inverter 
Senior Member
 
a3inverter's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Boston
Posts: 227

Bikes: More than the boss realizes...

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think a Nitto Dirt Drop stem would look better aesthetically than a Technomic. A bit spendy...but there is also this stem (Specialized-branded, but Nitto):

https://www.benscycle.com/p-2547-nit...ill-stem.aspx?

Pretty steep rise at 65 degrees, but 26.0 gives you more modern bar options (one drawback of the Kalloy dirt drop).

In terms of seat post showing...I think (in Grant I trust) that so long as the top of the seat and the top of the bars are relatively equal, it looks good.

Lastly, with respect to getting indexing going on drop bars I go with shimano indexed bar ends when I can, else I modify flat bar trigger shifters to drop bars. All it takes is a drill with a small sanding drum and about 10 minutes. I run this setup on my Trek 460 and I love it. Beats dropping big coin on brifters.
a3inverter is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 08:21 AM
  #18  
The Golden Boy 
Extraordinary Magnitude
 
The Golden Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 12,687

Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2208 Post(s)
Liked 712 Times in 433 Posts
Originally Posted by Velocivixen View Post

What I really want to know is whether having, say 8" of seat post, looks stupid???
Originally Posted by Velocivixen View Post
I am interested in knowing what people think about lots (more than 6") of seat tube showing. This is a question about aesthetics. Does that much seat tube indicate you're riding a bike that's too small? Or is that more relevant when talking about road bikes?
Originally Posted by Velocivixen View Post
Brake levers though have turkey wings. Guess I could spring for some Tektro 341's for small hands.
If you're talking about opinion about the seat post showing- I think it's fine (acceptable- still looks "off") for off road application- but IMO- not for "road" riding.

I don't mind turkey levers- if they stop OK, which they might with your cantis. I've got decent braking with roller cams- and not a lot of seat post- but I'm probably not having the top tube length issues you've got.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*

Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!

"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
The Golden Boy is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 11:27 AM
  #19  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
Something a little different and more aggressive. I like it but still need a longer seat post. Could use a longer crank + big ring. Using a 1-Eighth track bar on a Profile H2o stem. Easily inverts for a more conventional set--up.

Great looking bike! I can't see the shifters. Haven't had enough coffee perhaps, or this photo was taken when you were Ilsinho it up. What bar is that?
@eastbay71 - your attachments aren't workin for me. Darn! Could you please try to repost using different format? I want to see your bikes. Also I've looked up Sora brifters and they are all 8 speed. My bike is 7 speed with 130 dropouts. So are 7 speed brifters rare? Where can I get some?
@a3inverter - thanks for the link. I, too, prefer the "dirt drop" style of handlebars. I'll check out the Specialized ones too.
@The Golden Boy - I would use this bike as a commuter type and light off road easy stuff.

I appreciate ate that Shimano is going to replace most of my drive train due to the recall, but they'll replace with Altus likely which is ugly & not vintage looking.

Last edited by Velocivixen; 09-27-14 at 11:36 AM.
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 07:43 PM
  #20  
eastbay71
Senior Member
 
eastbay71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 691

Bikes: the bikes own me

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Here you go Velocivixen
My wife's bike with Adam's Trail A Bike
My "lightweight"
My Commuter
eastbay71 is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 07:51 PM
  #21  
eastbay71
Senior Member
 
eastbay71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 691

Bikes: the bikes own me

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Velocivixen View Post
Also I've looked up Sora brifters and they are all 8 speed. My bike is 7 speed with 130 dropouts. So are 7 speed brifters rare? Where can I get some?
Something I found out today, Brifters were introduced simultaneously with 8 speed cassettes and have never been offered in 7 speed. You could use the limit stops to keep the derailleur from throwing the chain off. You would have a unused click on the shifter. In my case I was starting with a complete tear down where nothing was reused just the bare frame so I had few limitations.

Crank Addict's shifters are just outboard of his stem on either side. Most easily seen in the 3rd picture
eastbay71 is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 07:55 PM
  #22  
Velocivixen
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 4,515
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 397 Post(s)
Liked 21 Times in 18 Posts
@eastbay71 - thanks for taking the time to repost. Excellent looking bijes? What models are each of those?

So I dropped the bike off at Universal Cycles and started the paperwork for the Shimano crank recall. They'll contact Shimano Monday. Looked at the new Shimano Tourney 7 speed "grifters". Fugly! And expensive. Ebay has RX100 7 speed bricters for even more. Then I remembered that for front indexing road shifters pull different amount of cable than mountain and my front Derailleur is mountain. So I guess I need to keep front friction. So....no road brifters?

I I might use my Suntour bar cons. Also I can get 8 speed Shimano Bar end shifters and use alternate cable routing on rear derailleur accd to Sheldon Brown. So I can use it on my 7 speed cassette. Does this always work?
Velocivixen is offline  
Old 09-27-14, 07:56 PM
  #23  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 36,725

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7135 Post(s)
Liked 2,495 Times in 1,326 Posts
My favorite 7-speed brifters are 1999 RSX-100. They started getting pricey about 5 years ago, unfortunately, but you can still dig 'em up for $50 after some time spent searching day and night.

I scored a complete bike with 3x7 RSX for $60 in 2012. I used the front derailleur from that bike for drop bar MTB conversion also.

1995 Trek 820 came stock with 135mm rear spacing.

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 09-27-14 at 08:02 PM.
LesterOfPuppets is online now  
Old 09-27-14, 08:04 PM
  #24  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 36,725

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7135 Post(s)
Liked 2,495 Times in 1,326 Posts
I wonder if Shimano would replace your crank with a road triple...
LesterOfPuppets is online now  
Old 09-27-14, 08:17 PM
  #25  
wrk101
Thrifty Bill
 
wrk101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 22,599

Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more

Mentioned: 79 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 906 Post(s)
Liked 322 Times in 242 Posts
Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
It's virtually impossible to set up a mtb with drops without a lot of seat post showing. If you rode a mtb with little seatpost showing, the bike would in all likelihood be too large. If you go back and look at the thread with the mtb drop bar conversions, they all show a lot of seatpost. The only question is whether you need a dirt drop style stem or whether a nitto technomic will work. I like the nitto better but then I like to have my weight a littler farther forward. The big deal is where your center of gravity as it; if it's off, the bike will ride a bit weird. In any case, this will ride differently than your road bike and will take a bit of getting used to.
I guess mine are the exception. But I have long arms and torso, very short legs.

Two Cimarrons, two sizes:

[IMG]IMG_2719 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]
wrk101 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.