Help identifying Peugeot model so I can fix it up.
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Help identifying Peugeot model so I can fix it up.
I picked up a Peugeot off of Craigslist recently with the hope of fixing it up for my wife. This will be my first rebuild. It looks to be in decent shape, but I already know some of the parts will need to be replaced. I want to know more about it so I have a better idea about what I will need to fix and potential problems. I would also appreciate any suggestions for replacement parts. According to the web, it looks to be around a 77-78 model, nothing high end it seems, but I haven't found any pictures online that look exactly like it.
Frame 1
Frame 2
Rear Derailer
Front Derailer
Breaks
Shifter
Downtube
Fork
Pedal
Stem of death
Badge
Numbers
Rim
Quick release
Chain stays damage? 1
Chain stays damage? 2
Chain stays damage? 3
The chain stays have an area underneath where the paint has been worn off. The tubes also look a bit crimped. It's the crimping that worries me. I'm not sure if the tubes came that way or if the bike had an unfortunate encounter with a clamp at some point and if that would be a deal breaker.
The front derailer needs to be replaced, as the plastic has cracked.
I hear a lot about how cheap the rear simplex derailers are, but I also hear they get the job done and don't self destruct too often.
The seat is not original, but it is torn up and needs to be replaced.
I read that there doesn't seem to be an adapter to turn the BB in to a 3 piece for the french bikes, so replacing and repacking the bearings looks like the only option.
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
Replacing the break pads is obvious, but is it recommended to upgrade them? My wife likes the suicide handles and I would like to make them safer to use without spending a bunch of money and dealing with the difference in french tubing sizes.
Thoughts?
Frame 1
Frame 2
Rear Derailer
Front Derailer
Breaks
Shifter
Downtube
Fork
Pedal
Stem of death
Badge
Numbers
Rim
Quick release
Chain stays damage? 1
Chain stays damage? 2
Chain stays damage? 3
The chain stays have an area underneath where the paint has been worn off. The tubes also look a bit crimped. It's the crimping that worries me. I'm not sure if the tubes came that way or if the bike had an unfortunate encounter with a clamp at some point and if that would be a deal breaker.
The front derailer needs to be replaced, as the plastic has cracked.
I hear a lot about how cheap the rear simplex derailers are, but I also hear they get the job done and don't self destruct too often.
The seat is not original, but it is torn up and needs to be replaced.
I read that there doesn't seem to be an adapter to turn the BB in to a 3 piece for the french bikes, so replacing and repacking the bearings looks like the only option.
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
Replacing the break pads is obvious, but is it recommended to upgrade them? My wife likes the suicide handles and I would like to make them safer to use without spending a bunch of money and dealing with the difference in french tubing sizes.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Jesterer; 10-21-14 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Fixed Frame 2 picture link
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I can't tell you the model, but it is a low-end model. Tells are the stem shifters, non-forged dropouts, steel rims, what looks like a steel cottered crank. With some component changes/clean up I think it would still make a nice resto.
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kick stand
Welcome to BikeForums! The chain stays were subject to a "kick stand" clamped on to the bike, no issues, typical entry level model. Other than that, it's a nice bike once cleaned, but don't dump a lot of money in to it.
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Moots VaMoots 2012-Peugeot Mixte 1974-Peugeot Mixte 1973
Moots VaMoots 2012-Peugeot Mixte 1974-Peugeot Mixte 1973
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After a quick google search for "77 Peugeot UO8" I found some bikes that seem to be right on the money. Thanks!
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It's a 1977-78ish Peugeot UO-8.
Looks like damage from a kickstand. Hard to say for certain without seeing it in person, but I usually wouldn't be too concerned with some slight crimping there, especially on a frame like this one whose tubing isn't particularly thin-walled.
Your frame likely has a French threaded bottom bracket shell. While not plentiful, there are some French bottom brackets available. Velo Orange carries a modern cartridge style bottom bracket that'll fit. "Action" branded French bottom bracket cups are available through Harris Cyclery and elsewhere. If you go with one of these options, you'll need to select a spindle length that matches whatever crankset you choose to use, since you'll be ditching the cottered crankset as well.
On my UO-8, I used a Japanese quill stem, which needed to be sanded down a bit to fit into the fork's steerer tube as French stems are 22.0 millimeters in diameter and most other stems are 22.2 mm. Whatever stem you decide to go with, you'll need to make sure you've got appropriately sized handlebars as well (or a shim). French sized handlebars are 25.0 millimeters instead of the more common 25.4 mm (1 inch).
You wouldn't want to use an adapter to mount a threadless stem on this bike. For one thing, the adapter wouldn't be French sized and would likely need to be sanded down. Secondly, a modern threaded stem would look SO out of place on a UO-8.
No need to replace the brakes. They'll work fine given new pads, new cables and housing, and some time spent on adjustments.
The weak point in the braking system would likely be the chromed steel rims. Brake pads don't grab those very well, especially when wet.
The chain stays have an area underneath where the paint has been worn off. The tubes also look a bit crimped. It's the crimping that worries me. I'm not sure if the tubes came that way or if the bike had an unfortunate encounter with a clamp at some point and if that would be a deal breaker.
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
You wouldn't want to use an adapter to mount a threadless stem on this bike. For one thing, the adapter wouldn't be French sized and would likely need to be sanded down. Secondly, a modern threaded stem would look SO out of place on a UO-8.
The weak point in the braking system would likely be the chromed steel rims. Brake pads don't grab those very well, especially when wet.
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Good to hear about the chain stays. I hear you about the money, but I have to spend enough to make it safe AND get my wife to like using it, so I have to ride that line. Do you have any suggestions? Obviously, I can't get away from tires, tubes, seat, brakes and front derailleur. Safety wise: stem?, rims (to alloy)?
#8
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Like others have chimed in with, this looks like a UO-8.
I had one of these for a few years and LOVED how it rode.
Looks like it is from a clamp-on kickstand. Don't know if it is cosmetic only or if it is actually structural.
I think the seat tube diameter is an oddball size, you probably want to research what derailleurs will fit the frame.
Velo Orange to the rescue!
Grand Cru Bottom Bracket, French Thread - Bottom Brackets - Components
Or, you could use a new JIS square-taper spindle and bearings with your existing cups, if you make the opening in the cups larger.
A new stem will also require new bars to go with it.
One option is to swap in the stem, bars, fork and headset from another frame with an ISO threaded fork.
Another is to take an older 'standard' aluminum alloy stem and slightly sand down the shaft - the most likely area of interference with the existing headset will probably be the where the stem passes through the lock nut.
New pads are a good idea. Alloy rims are an even better idea. I'm assuming you want to stop if your rims get wet?
Good luck with the build, and keep us updated!
I had one of these for a few years and LOVED how it rode.
The chain stays have an area underneath where the paint has been worn off. The tubes also look a bit crimped. It's the crimping that worries me. I'm not sure if the tubes came that way or if the bike had an unfortunate encounter with a clamp at some point and if that would be a deal breaker.
I think the seat tube diameter is an oddball size, you probably want to research what derailleurs will fit the frame.
Grand Cru Bottom Bracket, French Thread - Bottom Brackets - Components
Or, you could use a new JIS square-taper spindle and bearings with your existing cups, if you make the opening in the cups larger.
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
One option is to swap in the stem, bars, fork and headset from another frame with an ISO threaded fork.
Another is to take an older 'standard' aluminum alloy stem and slightly sand down the shaft - the most likely area of interference with the existing headset will probably be the where the stem passes through the lock nut.
Good luck with the build, and keep us updated!
#9
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.... and SkyDog75 made my post redundant.
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Make sure the brakes are working properly! The wheels have to be changed, do to steel rims verses aluminum (for better stopping), and try to replace those cheaply made derailleurs with Japanese entry level, they will work better. Overall you'll be spending over $150, if thats in your budget go ahead and upgrade the Peugeot. Here's a photo of my wife's Peugeot U08 Mixte:
Mind you, these are parts kept from other bikes that I bought and sold, my cost is next to zero, other then the original purchase nearly 40 years ago .
Mind you, these are parts kept from other bikes that I bought and sold, my cost is next to zero, other then the original purchase nearly 40 years ago .
Good to hear about the chain stays. I hear you about the money, but I have to spend enough to make it safe AND get my wife to like using it, so I have to ride that line. Do you have any suggestions? Obviously, I can't get away from tires, tubes, seat, brakes and front derailleur. Safety wise: stem?, rims (to alloy)?
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Moots VaMoots 2012-Peugeot Mixte 1974-Peugeot Mixte 1973
Moots VaMoots 2012-Peugeot Mixte 1974-Peugeot Mixte 1973
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Make sure the brakes are working properly! The wheels have to be changed, do to steel rims verses aluminum (for better stopping), and try to replace those cheaply made derailleurs with Japanese entry level, they will work better. Overall you'll be spending over $150, if thats in your budget go ahead and upgrade the Peugeot.
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#13
Still learning
The front derailer needs to be replaced, as the plastic has cracked.
$15
I hear a lot about how cheap the rear simplex derailers are, but I also hear they get the job done and don't self destruct too often.
You have a metal one, not the Delrin, no need to replace.
The seat is not original, but it is torn up and needs to be replaced.
Origin 8 Aero, $15 on ebay.
I read that there doesn't seem to be an adapter to turn the BB in to a 3 piece for the french bikes, so replacing and repacking the bearings looks like the only option.
Good luck with the cotter pins, maybe take to an LBS to remove. $15 labor, $30 to overhaul the whole thing
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
If it's still good after 40 years, don't worry about it.
Replacing the BRAKE break pads is obvious, but is it recommended to upgrade them? My wife likes the suicide handles and I would like to make them safer to use without spending a bunch of money and dealing with the difference in french tubing sizes.
Diacomp Grey Matter=made for steel rims, $9 for 4, they work fine enough.
Thoughts?
Tires, tubes, rim strips = $40-$60
Belkin brake and shifter cable set = $7 at Dicks, Wallyworld, or Hardware store.
Bar wrap = $10
Ball bearings = $5 or less
You can find most of what you need at niagaracycle.com, great prices.
$15
I hear a lot about how cheap the rear simplex derailers are, but I also hear they get the job done and don't self destruct too often.
You have a metal one, not the Delrin, no need to replace.
The seat is not original, but it is torn up and needs to be replaced.
Origin 8 Aero, $15 on ebay.
I read that there doesn't seem to be an adapter to turn the BB in to a 3 piece for the french bikes, so replacing and repacking the bearings looks like the only option.
Good luck with the cotter pins, maybe take to an LBS to remove. $15 labor, $30 to overhaul the whole thing
I haven't removed the stem yet to see if it has started cracking, but I would like to replace that as well because of the bad reputation of the AVA and ATAX stems. I hear there are stem adapters to attach a modern stem, but do they work for the french sizes? Is there a better option?
If it's still good after 40 years, don't worry about it.
Replacing the BRAKE break pads is obvious, but is it recommended to upgrade them? My wife likes the suicide handles and I would like to make them safer to use without spending a bunch of money and dealing with the difference in french tubing sizes.
Diacomp Grey Matter=made for steel rims, $9 for 4, they work fine enough.
Thoughts?
Tires, tubes, rim strips = $40-$60
Belkin brake and shifter cable set = $7 at Dicks, Wallyworld, or Hardware store.
Bar wrap = $10
Ball bearings = $5 or less
You can find most of what you need at niagaracycle.com, great prices.
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I have a Japanese SR (Sakae Ringyo) quill stem in French/Peugeot fitment that I'd be willing to let go. If you're interested, send me an email.
#16
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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I was going to say mid- to late 70's UO-8. It was not the cheapest derailleur bike in Peugeot's lineup at that time. That would be the AO-8, similar bike, same frame but non-chrome fork and lesser components.
That rear axle is not original unless Peugeot downgraded it. It should be QR.
That rear axle is not original unless Peugeot downgraded it. It should be QR.
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#18
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Sorry. Quick Release, as shown in your front hub pic with the Maillard lever. Your rear derailleur pic shows a solid axle held on by a nut and another covering nut.
I didn't pay too much attention to the details during that time period so they may have changed some things from what I know. When I got my UO-8 ('72 unless I totally misremember) the hubs were high-flange Normandy with QR skewers front and rear with steel Rigida Cro-Lux rims. The slightly lower cost AO-8 had solid axles held on by wingnuts, and less pretty steel rims. It is possible that either or both of your wheels were swapped out at some time. Or maybe someone bent the rear axle and saved a few $'s by using the cheaper axle. For any number of reasons the front skewer or entire wheel could have been swapped out too.
Just for yucks, look for the brand name on the hubs themselves, and both rims too.
I didn't pay too much attention to the details during that time period so they may have changed some things from what I know. When I got my UO-8 ('72 unless I totally misremember) the hubs were high-flange Normandy with QR skewers front and rear with steel Rigida Cro-Lux rims. The slightly lower cost AO-8 had solid axles held on by wingnuts, and less pretty steel rims. It is possible that either or both of your wheels were swapped out at some time. Or maybe someone bent the rear axle and saved a few $'s by using the cheaper axle. For any number of reasons the front skewer or entire wheel could have been swapped out too.
Just for yucks, look for the brand name on the hubs themselves, and both rims too.
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Agree with others that it's worth fixing up (it's a classic bike) but not worth investing a lot of money in. The one change I would make though is I'd buy a set of alloy wheels. The bike will ride better and brake better in the wet. They're not too expensive even when new. Velomine usu. has pretty good prices on 700c alloy wheels that take a freewheel. You may have to spread the frame but that is no big deal. The brakes should reach down to 700c. This is a big performance boost. If you sell the bike one day, keep the old wheels and throw them back on the bike.
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Sorry. Quick Release, as shown in your front hub pic with the Maillard lever. Your rear derailleur pic shows a solid axle held on by a nut and another covering nut.
I didn't pay too much attention to the details during that time period so they may have changed some things from what I know. When I got my UO-8 ('72 unless I totally misremember) the hubs were high-flange Normandy with QR skewers front and rear with steel Rigida Cro-Lux rims. The slightly lower cost AO-8 had solid axles held on by wingnuts, and less pretty steel rims. It is possible that either or both of your wheels were swapped out at some time. Or maybe someone bent the rear axle and saved a few $'s by using the cheaper axle. For any number of reasons the front skewer or entire wheel could have been swapped out too.
Just for yucks, look for the brand name on the hubs themselves, and both rims too.
I didn't pay too much attention to the details during that time period so they may have changed some things from what I know. When I got my UO-8 ('72 unless I totally misremember) the hubs were high-flange Normandy with QR skewers front and rear with steel Rigida Cro-Lux rims. The slightly lower cost AO-8 had solid axles held on by wingnuts, and less pretty steel rims. It is possible that either or both of your wheels were swapped out at some time. Or maybe someone bent the rear axle and saved a few $'s by using the cheaper axle. For any number of reasons the front skewer or entire wheel could have been swapped out too.
Just for yucks, look for the brand name on the hubs themselves, and both rims too.
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Both rims are Rigida Cro-Lux, and both hubs are Normandy. I'm guessing that they just stopped offering the QR on the rear wheel by the late seventies.
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Looking at catalog scans on cyclespeugeot.com, you seem to be right. In 1977 & 1978, the pics show QR on the front only and the description says the hubs are "Normandy alloy high flange w/quick release front".
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I've run into a problem. I can't seem to get the stem bolt off. Either the bolt head is stripped, or I (and the LBS) don't have the right sized hex key. Does anyone know if the peugeot had an unusually sized hex bolt? My other option is to drill out the bolt head and knock the wedge loose.
Also, I had the LBS remove the bottom bracket for me. Now I have a few options. I could replace the ball bearings, regrease, and reassemble, or I could replace with the Velo orange bottom bracket and put on a different crankset. I have also heard of replacing the original cups with these. Now, I'm a bit hazy on these options. Replacing the bearings and regreasing, is straight forward, assuming the cups are good, but then I would still have to deal with the cottered mess when I want to do maintenance. Replacing the bottom bracket with the Velo Orange seems good, but it's expensive, requires specialized tools to insert and I have to find a crankset (also expensive) that will be compatable with my shifting system, correct? With the cup and bearing replacement, I would still be stuck with the cottered crankset I have, it would just make maintenance easier, right? Am I off anywhere? What do you guys think of these options.
Also, I had the LBS remove the bottom bracket for me. Now I have a few options. I could replace the ball bearings, regrease, and reassemble, or I could replace with the Velo orange bottom bracket and put on a different crankset. I have also heard of replacing the original cups with these. Now, I'm a bit hazy on these options. Replacing the bearings and regreasing, is straight forward, assuming the cups are good, but then I would still have to deal with the cottered mess when I want to do maintenance. Replacing the bottom bracket with the Velo Orange seems good, but it's expensive, requires specialized tools to insert and I have to find a crankset (also expensive) that will be compatable with my shifting system, correct? With the cup and bearing replacement, I would still be stuck with the cottered crankset I have, it would just make maintenance easier, right? Am I off anywhere? What do you guys think of these options.
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What??? Only 2 wheels?
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I could replace the ball bearings, regrease, and reassemble, or I could replace with the Velo orange bottom bracket and put on a different crankset. I have also heard of replacing the original cups with these.
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If cost is the consideration, stay with the cottered cranks and original cups etc. Just regrease and reassemble. Nothing really wrong with the cottered cranks and you will not likely take them out more than once a decade anyway . If you do need to more often just invest in the proper tool.
To tighten the fixed cup one approach I have used is to thread it in by hand until as tight as I can do it, then pick the whole frame up, put the fixed cup edges in a vice, and rotate the whole frame to get that cup nice and tight. Good for removing them too.
For the stem bolt, it should be the normal 6mm. Are you getting no purchase at all on the bolt head or is the bolt spinning but not coming out of the wedge?
To tighten the fixed cup one approach I have used is to thread it in by hand until as tight as I can do it, then pick the whole frame up, put the fixed cup edges in a vice, and rotate the whole frame to get that cup nice and tight. Good for removing them too.
For the stem bolt, it should be the normal 6mm. Are you getting no purchase at all on the bolt head or is the bolt spinning but not coming out of the wedge?
Last edited by markk900; 10-25-14 at 06:16 PM.