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Regina freewheels ranking, was Oro the best?

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Regina freewheels ranking, was Oro the best?

Old 10-20-20, 03:17 PM
  #26  
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Not that I am an expert by any means, but I would put the CX-s against most of the Japanese freewheels from the same rough period...And I love the Sun Tour range. That was probably the best of the Regina products...America, in my opinion, a bit less so, but they were trying for something different with that one.
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Old 10-20-20, 06:40 PM
  #27  
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Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. I’d like to learn as much as possible about this bike - I’ll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
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Old 10-20-20, 06:55 PM
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My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
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Old 10-20-20, 06:55 PM
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An off-topic question re early CA Masis. In addition to the serial number and size stamping on the bottom bracket, I noticed +CF+ stamped next the M cut-out. Anyone know what that means?
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Old 10-20-20, 07:04 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
Absolutely agree, thanks. For now, I asked the shop to simply assemble and tune the bike mostly for mock-up and photos - I donít even want to clean it yet. I plan to go slow and have things done right to get it on the road.
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Old 10-20-20, 08:32 PM
  #31  
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As long as we're on the subject I will put this here for posterity. Someone may find it useful in the future.



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Old 10-21-20, 10:40 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by majmt View Post
An off-topic question re early CA Masis. In addition to the serial number and size stamping on the bottom bracket, I noticed +CF+ stamped next the M cut-out. Anyone know what that means?
it is actually +GF+
The casting house Georg Fischer
Still in business. I do not think they do bike components any more.
Depending on the depth in the casting and the amount of file effort, it goes from fully visible to missing.
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Old 10-21-20, 11:46 AM
  #33  
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this thread went completely off topic! the question was what was the best Regina freewheel not if you liked them!
I think think the answer is America, why else would they have marketed them in nice wooden boxes?
my '68 Masi Special sports a Mallaird 700 Corse freewheel (no wobble and a very precision sounding clack (no slipping ever)
and a Regina Record chain (lower plate height gives a more elegant look plus it shifts smoother and it looks COOL)
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Old 10-21-20, 12:00 PM
  #34  
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^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? I liked Atom freewheels too.

As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.

BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.

Originally Posted by steve sumner View Post
this thread went completely off topic! the question was what was the best Regina freewheel not if you liked them!
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.

When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.

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Old 10-21-20, 05:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? I liked Atom freewheels too.

As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.

BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.



Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.

When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
Halloween is coming, Zombie Jamboree.

Maillard had a good concept with the 700 freewheel kit, one or two threaded cogs and the rest slid on. Good in concept, but took too much time.
There was another racer lazy aspect, always best to set up the race and training wheels with the same brand/model of freewheel, no derailleur adjustment required.
That is if the mechanic double checked that the hub spacing was on the various wheels was uniform. Campagnolo made spacers in .5, 1.0 mm thickness if one needed.
Guys would have a training freewheel and a racing freewheel, or just swap out to race wheels.
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Old 10-21-20, 07:22 PM
  #36  
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As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked

Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.

all part of the secret Vintage code.
This is very interesting! I have a NOS Everest freewheel that was sold to me as English thread but maybe Italian thread, as there is no marking on back of freewheel, if this rubric works for Everest. I known English and Italian threads are close but I do have Campag rear hubs with both threads so I would like to match accordingly.

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Old 10-21-20, 09:30 PM
  #37  
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I actually like my Maillard and Maillard/Sachs Freewheels much more than my Reginas.
They are not really that bad, but, the only freewheel I ever had to fix because of bad internal tolerances between the inner and outer bodies was a Regina freewheel (I think it was a CX, IIRC.) that was knocking on me. Never had such ever happen with my other brand freewheels.
What also irritates me with Regina freewheels is, they all seem to really get stuck tight (Even if I greased the freewheel and rear hub threads) on to my hubs, requiring a whole lot of effort to take off my hubs. I actually broke one of my chain whips doing so, some years ago. First time it ever happened to me.

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Old 10-22-20, 06:33 AM
  #38  
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Having just serviced a Regina 5 speed Oro with buggered removal notches, I'd say my favorite two notch Regina is either a Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. Jus' sayin'.
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Old 10-22-20, 07:35 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Having just serviced a Regina 5 speed Oro with buggered removal notches, I'd say my favorite two notch Regina is either a Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. Jus' sayin'.
Small world. I just transplanted a GS body onto an Oro cluster with buggered notches.

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Old 10-22-20, 08:40 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Having just serviced a Regina 5 speed Oro with buggered removal notches, I'd say my favorite two notch Regina is either a Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. Jus' sayin'.
A little update on that Regina extra you built for my ItalVega , it is still working flawlessly and the "click" is music to my ears. The one you did for my daughter's Raleigh is also working very well. I also like SunTour Perfect or Winner, and Shimano(early) freewheels . I have a removal tool for the Regina that keeps the slots intact when removing. It employs a threaded retainer that accepts the skewer and keeps it snug when in the vise . Unfortunately most of the Regina FW's I have seen have buggered up slots and that can be a problem.
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Old 10-22-20, 08:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
it is actually +GF+
The casting house Georg Fischer
Still in business. I do not think they do bike components any more.
Depending on the depth in the casting and the amount of file effort, it goes from fully visible to missing.
Thanks. Yes, I can see now that it is a G and not a C. I was hoping CF stood for ConFente
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Old 10-22-20, 12:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked

Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.

all part of the secret Vintage code.
Unfortunately, whether Caimi (Everest) marked their freewheels in some manner is not evident.

English thread Record hub example:
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freewheel-markings.jpg (85.3 KB, 101 views)
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Old 10-22-20, 02:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by majmt View Post
Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. Iíd like to learn as much as possible about this bike - Iíll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
Wow, a Martano still on a Masi? It must not have been ridden much, as the tire might indicate. They were notoriously soft and bent easily.
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Old 10-22-20, 02:15 PM
  #44  
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Oftentimes if a Regina freewheel is really tight it's because it is an Italian threaded freewheel on an English threaded hub. Not always, but often.

Freewheel threads should always be very well greased. Use teflon if you have it.

AFA the mangled up two notches, that is caused by improper removal technique 99% of the time. Two notch freewheels of all types can be removed without mangling, if care is taken.* The splined bodies are more tolerant, but less convenient since the outer hub locknut usually needs to be taken off, unless you still have an old Phil spline tool. Mine disappeared somewhere along the line... Downside of the Phil tools is they usually failed after a while, being so thin-walled in order to fit between the locknut and freewheel body.

*I realize that doesn't do anyone much good now, 30-40+ years later, when many of the remaining vintage freewheels are mangled.

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Old 10-22-20, 04:25 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dmanders View Post
Wow, a Martano still on a Masi? It must not have been ridden much, as the tire might indicate. They were notoriously soft and bent easily.
I wish I could post a few photos but I’m still short on my post count after seven years. When I make it to 10 posts, I’ll put up some photos of the bike in a new thread. There are so many knowledgable members here that I would really love to hear their informed input.

This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 10-22-20, 04:41 PM
  #46  
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I do agree that the sound of the Regina is really sweet.
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Old 10-23-20, 03:43 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by majmt View Post
I wish I could post a few photos but I’m still short on my post count after seven years. When I make it to 10 posts, I’ll put up some photos of the bike in a new thread. There are so many knowledgable members here that I would really love to hear their informed input.

This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
I don't think the Martanos lasted a month on my 73 Masi bought new. I can't remember what I switched to (Fiamme?) but I eventually landed on Mavic GP4s as my go to rim. I liked the Everest freewheels but Oros were easier to get in the right sizes. Personally I would go hi-end tubular, e.g., Vittoria Corsa, for the full experience. The Clement Criterium silks my bike came with were as sweet a tire as ever made.
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