Tandem Tom

I am starting my 1984 Miyata 610 project and I am wondering about some rim suggestions for the 27" to 700c conversion. I put my Mavic Open Pros on to see if the the original cantis will work and they will. But after looking at the Mavic site the maximum tire width is 28mm. I really would like to go 32mm to maybe 38mm.
So your suggestions would be great!
Thanks!

oddjob2

Sun CR18s run about $49 (treefortbikes.com) per pair or built up for $120.


Sun CR18 Road Bike Sealed Bearing 700c Wheelset 126mm Rear [072774744381] - $120.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

MacGyverBurrito

I've been wanting to get a set of velocity atlas rims. they're aesthetically pleasing and I've heard good things about them. pretty pricey though.

Tandem Tom

On the Sun CR18 what is the will tire that it will take?

desconhecido 

The CR18 is 22.5 mm outside and 19 mm inside. According to the Sheldon Brown tire size chart, appropriate size is 28 to 44. Lots of people (including me) have 650A CR18s on old three speeds and they take the 26 X 1 3/8 tire (35) and it's a nice, easy size for the rim. 38s should be fine.

Chrome Molly

H Plus Son TB14's will handle that size tire and have a nice vintage look to them. I don't on a set yet, but people seem to like them as much or more than Mavic rims.

gomango

I'll have a set soon on my Della Santa.

I'm building another wheelset first for a friend, then these for myself.

My RA doesn't allow much building nowadays, but it's fun when it isn't flairing.

dddd

Using 700c rims on a bike with cantilever brakes that was built for 27" wheels means that the brake pad trajectory will tend to be more vertical than normal, relative to the pad's inward travel.

So, when choosing rims, it's important to preserve some combination of tall brake tracks and added rim width, since extra width changes the pad trajectory to a more-horizontal path and a taller sidewall allows for a safe increase in tolerable vertical motion of the pad as it mashes into the rim's brake track.

The wider 700c rim also keeps the braking leverage more similar to what it was when using 27" rims. I've converted my Trek 720 and a couple of Miyata tourers to 700c and was happy with the results. I never tried it with narrow rims, but rims in the 22-25mm range worked well for me.

Dfrost 

+1 on the H plus Son TB14. Built up a set last summer and they are very nice rims.

This was an interesting rim comparison:
https://fairwheelbikes.com/c/reviews...y-rim-roundup/

gomango

Yes that is helpful.

Thanks.

lasauge 

I'll second the recommendation for Sun CR18's, I've built two wheelsets with those rims and been quite happy with them overall. They're relatively heavy and tend to make for challenging tire installations, but on the positive side they're cheap, tough, and look great whether you go for the polished or matte finish.

Pompiere

Rivendell has these Velocity twin hollow 700x22 36 hole rims for $25 each. I bought a pair and they look at home on a vintage build.
Velocity Twin Hollow rim - 700c, 36h

JohnDThompson 

I run 37mm wide tires on CR-18s here.

dddd

The twin-hollow rims are essentially singlewalled rims of the style made popular by the Super Champion Mod58 rims.

They aren't as resistant to wheel collapse since the cross-section doesn't strongly resist twisting the way that doublewall rims do, so a heavier rim is needed to achieve any certain amount of wheel strength.

Singlewall rims don't support presta valves the way doublewall rims usually do, so careless use of a hand pump or pump head may cause the valve to pull/tear free and leak. Shraeder valve tubes don't have this problem so are the best choice with singlewall rims.

I do a lot of riding (even some racing) on singlewall rim wheels and am mostly very satisfied with them, but where wheel strength and choice of valve type is concerned they are at a disadvantage to doublewalled rims.

dddd

Did you mean to ask what is the widest tire the rims will take?

You can run a 45mm tire on narrow, 20mm roadracing rims, it's what I used to do when racing cross country mtb on 700c wheels.

The tire will have more sideways flex at any given pressure, with a lazier steering response than with a wider rim.

Also, the tubes tend to rupture adjacent to the valve stem if the stem portion of the tube isn't gently pulled down into the rim well before and during initial inflation, this because the inflated tube pins itself to the inside of the tire, making the thick rubber "pad" at the valve stem hang up inside the tire with the adjacent, thin portions of the tube over-stretching as inflation pressure pushes and stretches it down toward the rim's inner wall.
Inflation pressure doesn't effectively pull the tube smoothly and evenly around the corner that is created by the tire sidewall bulging outward from the rim sidewall, so generously-sized (wider) tubes are recommended when the rim is much narrower than the tire, especially when road-width rims position the tire's beads close enough together so as to hinder the thicker rubber around the valve stem from falling into the rim cavity.

gerv 

They do look good but the OP has a touring bike and these look like single wall rims.

jiangshi

5 years riding OP's and Conti 35's. If you inflate too much, that's a no go. I run low pressure (60PSI or lower)on them, never a pinch flat or a rim blow off. I use mine for off road/gravel mostly, but your end use really depends on what tire you want to run. If you already have Open Pro's, use them and see.

Nothing ventured...

Tandem Tom

The Mavic Open Pro have a Campy hub as they are set up for my '92 Serrotta Colorad II. This bike is a bit to "nervous" so that is why I started l looking for and found the Miyata.
Thanks for all the replies!