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Craigslist Shopping Spree (80s Trek 950 and Gios Torino). Which would you keep??

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Craigslist Shopping Spree (80s Trek 950 and Gios Torino). Which would you keep??

Old 01-08-15, 10:11 PM
  #1  
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Craigslist Shopping Spree (80s Trek 950 and Gios Torino). Which would you keep??

I went on a bit of a craigslist shopping spree here in Madison, WI the past few weeks. Both bikes appeared here on the forums before...I just went out and bought them. Well now I think I'm going to undo some of my damage and get rid of one of the frames.

What do you think?? Gios Torino or locally made Trek 950?? Both frames are my size and both are Columbus SL tubing.

My purchases:

1) The white powdercoated Gios Torino frameset. $60. Given the BB cutout and fork, looks legit to me. Frame is in excellent shape. No signs of rust or anything. There is the teaniest tiniest paint wrinkle near the downtube braze-on, but I very much doubt it was a repaired bend as it is the only spot and you can just barely notice (all the tubes feel perfectly smooth). For another $10 I got a Campy bottom bracket and banged up Campy crankset. For another $50 I impulsively bought the dude's Record wheelset (Record hubs, open pro rims)...but then I realized it is an 8-speed hub (with Campy 8-speed cassette :-/

2) The Trek 950 that also appeared, with full Super Record group (except for shifters). $375. This one was tough and I watched it for a week or so before impulsively buying it tonight. Frame has been repainted. No dents or anything and the repaint is in good shape. Original owner who knew the entire history of the bike (he showed me original pics, etc). I'm not even sure I want the components, but I figure I can get my money back on eBay. A couple commentors here: "It's a pretty rare bike" and "It has the TREK-branded Cinelli bottom bracket shell, which was only used for a few months. Early production got a standard Cinelli shell marked Cinelli on the bottom, and later production got the Signicast shell with the cast-in cable guides". I think the rear derailleur pulleys might be worn out.

I'm kind of leaning towards the Trek 950 since it was made just 30 miles away from where I live, and I believe the Trek 950 is one of the best steel frames Trek ever made? Then I just need to decide whether to keep the components or not!!


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Old 01-09-15, 12:20 AM
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Gios lugs (white) sure are thinned out nicely!

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Old 01-09-15, 12:36 AM
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Keep the Trek.
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Old 01-09-15, 01:29 AM
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Me, I'd keep the GIOS.

Or keep the one that fits best. There seems to be a difference in size?
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Old 01-09-15, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by non-fixie View Post
Me, I'd keep the GIOS.

Or keep the one that fits best. There seems to be a difference in size?
I took at a closer look at dimensions. Yup, Gios is smaller.

Trek 950 seat tube (center-to-center): 24"
Gios Torino seat tube: 23"

Trek 950 top tube (center-to-center): 23"
Gios Torino top tube: 22"

Plus the Gios appears to have a more aggressive seat tube angle.

I'm 6'1" and already ride a different Trek with the same dimensions as the 950. Fits great. Looks like the Gios is going to be too small! I guess that answers it!

Both are really compact in terms of chainstay length. On the Trek I've never seen such tight clearance between the rear wheel and the seat tube!
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Old 01-09-15, 08:20 AM
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Not so fast. The effective top tube length on the Gios with a steeper seat tube angle might be the same or very close th the Trek.
Everyone needs a project. Keep both. Your cost of entry on the Gios is cheap. Get an Italian bottom bracket for it, transfer the parts from the Trek and try it out in the Spring. Besides you should take the Trek apart for a repack anyway.
That way you get to try the Gios out and see if you like it.... Worst case you will want to refinish it.
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Old 01-09-15, 09:30 AM
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I'd keep them both. For the minimal starting price, the Gios would make a fun project. Just a little thing, but the bolts that hold the jockey pulleys in the SR rear deraileur are installed wrong. The flat heads should be towards the spokes and the nuts should be towards the outside.
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Old 01-09-15, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
Not so fast. The effective top tube length on the Gios with a steeper seat tube angle might be the same or very close th the Trek.
Everyone needs a project. Keep both. Your cost of entry on the Gios is cheap. Get an Italian bottom bracket for it, transfer the parts from the Trek and try it out in the Spring. Besides you should take the Trek apart for a repack anyway.
That way you get to try the Gios out and see if you like it.... Worst case you will want to refinish it.
Wait, doesn't a steeper seat tube angle put you more forward on the bike (like a Tri bike), which makes the "effective" top tube length shorter than the actual?

Yeah, maybe I'll just dump those 8-speed Record wheels and hold onto both frames for a bit. 8-speed seems like kind of a no-mans land. At that point friction gets a bit too difficult and 8-speed indexed shifters (or Ergos) are harder to find.
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Old 01-09-15, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CroMo Mike View Post
I'd keep them both. For the minimal starting price, the Gios would make a fun project. Just a little thing, but the bolts that hold the jockey pulleys in the SR rear deraileur are installed wrong. The flat heads should be towards the spokes and the nuts should be towards the outside.
The pulleys are a bit stiff too. What is the deal with pulleys anyways? Can the bearings wear out? If so, are replacements available?
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Old 01-09-15, 09:55 AM
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The Campy pulleys' bearings seldom wear out; the teeth wear off them. Genuine replacements are expensive but good alternatives exist. They can be taken apart and cleaned/lubed.
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Old 01-09-15, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CroMo Mike View Post
The Campy pulleys' bearings seldom wear out; the teeth wear off them. Genuine replacements are expensive but good alternatives exist. They can be taken apart and cleaned/lubed.
Ugh, the pulleys are labeled Suntour! They must have been replaced.
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Old 01-09-15, 10:29 PM
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I looked hard at the Trek when it was on CL. Even went back and forth a few times with the seller. Probably would have gone for it if not for the weird color. That's a pretty rare bike, though. I'd be tempted to keep it too.
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Old 01-09-15, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ppg677 View Post
Wait, doesn't a steeper seat tube angle put you more forward on the bike (like a Tri bike), which makes the "effective" top tube length shorter than the actual?

Yeah, maybe I'll just dump those 8-speed Record wheels and hold onto both frames for a bit. 8-speed seems like kind of a no-mans land. At that point friction gets a bit too difficult and 8-speed indexed shifters (or Ergos) are harder to find.
Depends on how you set up the saddle in relation to the bottom bracket. If you use the same saddle and crank length and have found your position in relation to the BB, then the variation in seat tube angle will push the effective top tube length forward of the BB "vertical line" longer on a steeper seat tubed machine. On the noted bikes you have here, maybe 8-10 mm. If you let the seat tube set your position, then no, the Trek will have you farther behind the bottom bracket.
I like 8 speed but I have two bikes, some parts and spares. I would not start from scratch right now unless it started with a full bike.
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Old 01-10-15, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop View Post
I looked hard at the Trek when it was on CL. Even went back and forth a few times with the seller. Probably would have gone for it if not for the weird color. That's a pretty rare bike, though. I'd be tempted to keep it too.
Yeah, I went over there and initially passed on it. Repaint was a bit of a hangup and he wasn't going to take the $300 I offered before leaving. I went back and forth too. He even offered me to come over and help him uncover serial. I tried talking him into keeping it and getting back into cycling...he was clearly excited talking about his history with the bike.

It knawed at me all week and I saw it sit there. So finally I upped my offer to $375 and took it. I mean hell, parting out all the campy SR should get me $375 back on eBay if I'm so inclined, right?

I was surprised to hear I was the only person to look at it in-person.
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Old 01-10-15, 08:24 AM
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Easy, keep the Trek. Doing a proper respray resto for it can always be on the agenda, and in the meantime it is likely a better rider (and complete). Besides, you know how the trek suits you in terms of the dimensions.
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Old 01-10-15, 09:20 AM
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As several have said...keep both...while the Trek was quite a bit more money...if you sell off the components, it becomes cheaper. And...the Gios...at $60, not too much investment...and...again, as others said...give it a chance...ride it!
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Old 01-10-15, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
Depends on how you set up the saddle in relation to the bottom bracket. If you use the same saddle and crank length and have found your position in relation to the BB, then the variation in seat tube angle will push the effective top tube length forward of the BB "vertical line" longer on a steeper seat tubed machine. On the noted bikes you have here, maybe 8-10 mm. If you let the seat tube set your position, then no, the Trek will have you farther behind the bottom bracket.
Ah, I had to draw this out on my CAD program to understand this! Indeed, if you set your fore/aft seat position relative to the BB, then a lower (slacker) seat tube angle puts more of the top-tube behind the vertical line (extending from the BB). Thus in some ways, a slacker seat tube angle is really equivalent to a seatpost with more setback if you need it. Or alternatively, the steaper seat tube angle allows you to have that seat more forward then your seatpost might otherwise support.

I don't see what Gios is trying to accomplish here. My wife is a hard-core triathlete, so I understand why Tri-Bikes have such steep seat tube angles. They really want a forward position (relative to BB) in order to be more aggressive and to use less running muscles. But in order to support being so forward-balanced, you also need the aero bar stack.

So if Gios is trying to enable a super-forward (aggressive) position, then surely you need a much longer stem in order to support that position.

I'm skeptical! But yeah, I might just have to build it up to give it a try before putting the frame on eBay.
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Old 01-11-15, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ppg677 View Post
Yeah, I went over there and initially passed on it. Repaint was a bit of a hangup and he wasn't going to take the $300 I offered before leaving. I went back and forth too. He even offered me to come over and help him uncover serial. I tried talking him into keeping it and getting back into cycling...he was clearly excited talking about his history with the bike.

It knawed at me all week and I saw it sit there. So finally I upped my offer to $375 and took it. I mean hell, parting out all the campy SR should get me $375 back on eBay if I'm so inclined, right?

I was surprised to hear I was the only person to look at it in-person.
From what I remember from looking at the bottom bracket photo, the original paint job is some kind of blue-green color. Is that accurate? Wonder what kind of shape it's in. Did the guy say anything about why he repainted it?
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Old 01-11-15, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sedgemop View Post
From what I remember from looking at the bottom bracket photo, the original paint job is some kind of blue-green color. Is that accurate? Wonder what kind of shape it's in. Did the guy say anything about why he repainted it?
Yes, he had a picture of the bike with its original green color. The frame appears to be in great shape. No dings/dents at all. No signs of rust whatsoever.

Says he had it repainted around '95 because the original paint was all scratched/nicked up. He says he puts tens of thousands of miles on the bike. Original Fiamme rims do show some brake track wear....I'm not really sure how much. They are not concave or anything. The chainrings are original too, and they surprisingly don't appear to have that much wear either. Huh. Otherwise the rest of the Campy components seem serviceable. I'll need new gums for the brake levers and new brake pads.
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