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1970? Raleigh Sports Ladies Frame - My New Project

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1970? Raleigh Sports Ladies Frame - My New Project

Old 01-18-15, 02:17 PM
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dweenk 
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1970? Raleigh Sports Ladies Frame - My New Project

I originally began this post on the "For Love of English 3-Speeds" thread, but Velocivixen suggested I begin a new thread. So to begin - I bought this Sports thinking it was a 1960's model, but the hub and saddle were dated 1973. The shifter cable housing ran all the way back to the chainstay (no pulley). The shifter housing was the same type as the brake cable housing. It has a Brooks B-66 saddle (I think), a locking fork, and a rear rack that I could not find in the catalog. I began to think that it was a mishmash of years until I deciphered the license plate and noticed what I believe is the bike shop label.

The license plate indicates that the bike was purchased, or spent some time in Brabant, Belgium. Perhaps that explains the unconventional build. The frame serial number (1624904) indicates 1970, but research tells me that 1970 frames were built up and shipped as late as 1973.

The only parts missing are the chainguard and frame mounted pump. Quite possibly it came with a saddle bag and tool kit, but that is speculation on my part. It has a Miller wheel dynamo and lights, and the lights work. The tires have 650 x 38A , 26 X 1 3/8 x 1 1/2 molded onto the sidewall. Some of the wiring is a bit rough, and I am pondering whether to splice the old wire where it is frayed, or to replace it (dis-assembly may necessitate rewiring).

This project is going to proceed slowly due to work and weather constraints, and I am in no hurry to begin - too cold to clean it properly in an unheated garage. What I intend to do is discover all I can about the bike's origin and find a chainguard and pump. I have a chain breaker and small oiler on order from Harbor Freight - the breaker will be converted to a cotter press - the oiler is for the hub. The hub shifts perfectly by-the-way, it just needed to be ridden a few miles in order to loosen things up.

I had originally intended to make this my wife's birthday present (early February). There is no way that I can complete this by that date, so I'll probably give her a seat bag and show her what is in the works.

I am looking forward to advice and encouragement from other BF members, especially those with Raleigh and 3-speed knowledge.

The bike sellers decal I think


The license plate


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Old 01-18-15, 02:23 PM
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Unless you're really good at splicing wire, the splices would look kind of crappy out where you can see it.
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Old 01-18-15, 02:49 PM
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Yes, I understand that, but I was hoping to hide them. I'd like to be able to pull the fenders without a lot of trouble. I'm talking about hidden weather-proof disconnects.
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Old 01-18-15, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by arex View Post
Unless you're really good at splicing wire, the splices would look kind of crappy out where you can see it.
It may be easier and cleaner to replace the wire than to try to splice it or patch the bare spots. It looks like it simply bolts on at the generator end, and if you open the headlight, you can see how the other end is attached. I really like the brown saddle and the green paint -- a real classic. Some KoolStop brake pads would be a huge safety enhancement.

The missing OEM pump is nothing to fret about, because they were practically worthless, anyway. I found a modern Blackburn pump which fits the downtube pump pegs on my UO-8, and a Zefal which fits the downtube pump pegs on my 1960 Capo. Not period-correct, but I can confidently provide enough pressure to get me home properly in the event of a puncture.
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Old 01-18-15, 03:42 PM
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The original wiring is wrapped around the the down tube clamps, and tied around the chain stay bridge and the end of the fender stay. I am looking at a wiring system that would allow me to remove a fender or light without dis-assembling any wiring.
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Old 01-18-15, 04:54 PM
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there should be a date on the SA hub . i just got a 74 sports and found out a lot about these things . see what the hub date is ..
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Old 01-18-15, 09:35 PM
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If you can solder it is possible to do a neat job splicing wires.

For this job, SN63 is the best solder.

First, strip back the wire so fresh uncorroded wire is exposed. If the wire is tin-plated this should be fairly easy.

Leave no more than 1/8" of wire exposed on either end to be connected.

Tin both ends to be spliced. Be generous with the solder. Get some heatshrink tubing that is of a size where it will shrink to the diameter of the wire or slightly less, cut off a length about 1 inch long and thread one wire through it. Move it well away from the area to be soldered so it does not shrink at the wrong time.

Do not twist the wires together or anything like that. Instead you are just going to rely on on the properties of the solder itself. Hold the wires so that each 1/8" length of the tinned wire is side by side and solder them together.

This will produce a joint that is reasonably strong and has a minimum diameter. Bring the heatshrink up over the solderjoint and heat it up- a lighter works good (don't over do it- less is better than more). You should be all set and the splice will be neat, which is what you are after. Style is everything
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Old 01-18-15, 09:58 PM
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It seems to be a superbe but no generator hub . The ladies sports didn't have the air pump . So where some where in the middle ? Nice saddle.
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Old 01-19-15, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28 View Post
The ladies sports didn't have the air pump .
I think it depends on the year. My daughter's "Sports" has pump pegs:

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Old 01-19-15, 09:44 AM
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I picked up this '66 Lady's Sports a couple of months ago, and it has both pump pegs and the original alloy pump:

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Old 01-19-15, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
I think it depends on the year. My daughter's "Sports" has pump pegs:

That would be a " sports deluxe " ..https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_Raleigh_Cat_70_3_LG.jpg ..some years didn't have a deluxe model sports . What happened to the crank on your daughters bike ?

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Old 01-19-15, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28 View Post
What happened to the crank on your daughters bike ?
It disappeared long before I got hold of it. This is how it came to me:

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Old 01-19-15, 11:14 AM
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Sweet thread! My winter project is revamping a 1970 Raleigh Sports for my partner. I took it all to bits intending to paint and sell it, but she loves the olive green color and the design. She's in grad school so it would be the perfect bike as a commuter/around town rider. I haven't even looked at the bike in 6 months, but I'm resolved to work on it this winter and I'll be using this thread as inspiration.
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Old 01-19-15, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28 View Post
there should be a date on the SA hub . i just got a 74 sports and found out a lot about these things . see what the hub date is ..
My hub is dated 1973 and so is the seat, so for now I'm going with a 1970 frame built up in late '72 or 73. I still can't figure out how the locking fork got there though.
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Old 01-19-15, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Crawford53 View Post
Sweet thread! My winter project is revamping a 1970 Raleigh Sports for my partner. I took it all to bits intending to paint and sell it, but she loves the olive green color and the design. She's in grad school so it would be the perfect bike as a commuter/around town rider. I haven't even looked at the bike in 6 months, but I'm resolved to work on it this winter and I'll be using this thread as inspiration.
Raleigh really nailed it with their bronze green paint. It just looks so "Right" on a 3-sped of that time. I can hardly wait to get this one cleaned up and polished.
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Old 01-19-15, 11:31 AM
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In 73 the pump WAS standard on the sports . The rear rack and steering lock weren't . Who knows what happened to these poor things .
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Old 01-19-15, 11:32 AM
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Just wash it and wax it and let the patina speak for itself. It made it this long, it'll do another 40 just fine.
New cables and tires and brake pads. If you use it an aweful lot you could upgrade to better wheels and still keep it looking correct.
You may also buy a battery light that looks correct but is way brighter. Leave the generator for looks...
Good find.
Here is my mother in law's 66 I rescued.
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Old 01-19-15, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thenomad View Post
Just wash it and wax it and let the patina speak for itself. It made it this long, it'll do another 40 just fine.
New cables and tires and brake pads. If you use it an aweful lot you could upgrade to better wheels and still keep it looking correct.
You may also buy a battery light that looks correct but is way brighter. Leave the generator for looks...
Good find.
Here is my mother in law's 66 I rescued.
I have a vintage looking LED light that i salvaged from a Chinese "Dutch" bike a couple of years ago. It doesn't work, and I doubt it ever worked. I'll have to take a look at it, but I'm inclined to use the old stuff. My wife has a Trek 820 that she rides most of the time. This will be her "Turnpike Cruiser". BTW - that is a nice looking Sports.
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Old 01-19-15, 06:19 PM
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as far as a light , mine had this . im pretty sure it came from the bike shop with it . it seems made for the front post . they come up on ebay once and a while ..[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-19-15, 06:30 PM
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[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-19-15, 07:39 PM
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I recently retrofitted one of those style lamps with LED innards and ran it off a dynohub:

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Old 01-19-15, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
I recently retrofitted one of those style lamps with LED innards and ran it off a dynohub:

show off .. nice bike ..
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Old 01-19-15, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28 View Post
show off .. nice bike ..
And I thought that was the point of these forums?! Hah!
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Old 01-19-15, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
And I thought that was the point of these forums?! Hah!
thats right ! the lantern had a handlebar mount also as the raleigh had a basket . here it is on the 69 stingray and it works under its battery power
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Old 01-20-15, 11:25 AM
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My mistake...I thought you meant repairing the wires by splicing in fresh wire.

Something to consider is under-the-hood electrical connectors for cars. A very positive connection, latched so it won't slip apart, and they have a silicone gasket to keep the water out. I'm most familiar with Mopar connectors, but just about any carmaker will have something similar. Check Napa for new, or search a junkyard for used. The only downside I can think of is the color (probably grey) and the connector will be a little chunky and unsightly, unless you can find a way to conceal it in the light housing or something.
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