3speedslow

ryansu

What the fork!? prepping my Cresta GT to try a replacement fork from an 86 Schwinn Passage.

Bianchi84

No pictures. Just removed, cleaned and lubed chain and derailleurs on the Cannondale, Bianchi's turn next week (depending on the weather).

curbtender

Installed a quick release on a folder...

merziac

Brilliant!

noglider 

@non-fixie, I collect stems, too, so I can make adjustments. It's gotten out of hand. I might have two dozen stems now. And of course, they don't have removable faceplates, so making changes is labor intensive.

@malcala622, the Gios is one of my favorites, because it's beautiful and not gaudy like so many Italian bikes. It's for you, right? Please let us know how it rides. I've never tried one.

noglider 

As for me, no wrenching today, but we rode our tandem, and there's some wrenching ahead. Twice today, shifting down in front, the chain jammed between big and middle chainrings which halted us damned fast and almost pitched us off the bike. There's so much to learn in tandeming, and now I've learned that a jammed drivetrain is much more serious than on a single bike. I've also learned I can't dismount on the right side, especially when the road is pitched downward to the right.

malcala622

@noglider this one is all mine. I dont usually pos builds for clients or friends.

ill report back soon on how it rides

rccardr 

Slightspeed

45 mile ride to Malibu and back on the '78 PR10. When I got home I saw I won an Ebay bid on a pair of Ballila brakes for a newly acquired Legnano GP. Never heard of Ballila before, but mine has a stripped screw that looks too short, and are pretty badly oxidized. Ebay ones look prettier, and have a release mechanism, so I hope they solve a couple of problems.

Peugeot at Magu Rock.


Problem screw.

RiddleOfSteel

Completed converting my Davidson from a 2x10 dry weather bike to a 3x10, fendered, rain bike, complete with Shimano 6603 STI shifters, crankset, and 6600 long cage RD. The standardized chainring setup did not like a 26T small ring, nor a slightly used 39T middle ring in conjunction with 410mm chainstays. Back up to a pretty new 42T middle ring (even 10-speed specific, FWIW) and a 28T small ring. FD is dialed in and wasn't hard to set up. 12-27T cassette out back. VERY finicky! I would have really liked the entire chainring set to have been inboard another 2-3mm as I had the space. That would make the angle between the 27T cog and the 42T middle ring less extreme and prone to making the chain shift to the 24T cog when back pedaling.

For now though, everybody is playing nice, pedaling forwards and backwards (well, backwards 95% of the time). This is the first time I've had issue with this sort of thing on a triple as generally I've run triples on longer wheelbase bikes. Though the triples that I have had that were fine on road/race geometry frames, were either fully Campagnolo, or full Campagnolo with a FSA carbon triple crankset. At least the fenders clear the 23mm tires easily. The bike also looks pretty good too, so I'm hoping that will carry the day after a long build process over the last two days.

In other news, it's a tire re-shuffling, of which I have just two more to do.

noglider 

@Slightspeed, good stuff. And I love California scenery. I've been to various parts of the state and loved all of it.

Balilla was around for a long time. Some lower end Bottecchia bikes had Balilla center pull brakes. They looked too thin to work well, but I'm told they're fine.

non-fixie 

Yes! I was thinking the same thing. It'l be a long term project, though, as all the other bits will have to have a comparable level of elegance and simplicity for it to work. A while back a beautiful Raleigh touring bike with upright bars came up for sale: my size, navy blue with gold lining, built with Reynolds 753. That would have been perfect. There was just the small matter if its €1,600 price tag ...

non-fixie 

Well, the upside is that stems don't take up much room. And instead of replacing the stem you can just build a new bike and address the other niggles at the same time.

noglider 

I'm afraid to ask how many bikes you have. I bet you don't even know.

non-fixie 

I'm fairly sure I'm pretty close to N. I think.

non-fixie 

Delivered this to a coworker today. She'd told me earlier she'd planned a multi-day tour to Belgium for the Easter weekend. On her 55 lbs Cortina.

Took me 10 minutes to find this twilight zone beauty locally for €40. And another 30 minutes to pick it up. Cleaned it, set the saddle at the correct height and added a rack from my stash of decommissioned racks (don't like 'em).

ryansu

What am I doing today? realizing hopeful optimism is no substitute for accurate measurements. The replacement fork I got off ebay was 2 cm longer in the steer tube than the original but the threaded section is the same 3 cm length for both meaning I don't have the threads needed to snug up the headset. Sigh.



no more threads

merziac

Davidson or Rodrigez should be able to help.

ryansu

Thanks - I had the same thought - Here is the response I got from Davidson in response to my question about adding threads.

Sometimes you can add, but most times it doesn't work well. When it had to be done

no matter the cost and perfectly we have had a machinist do it at a cost of about

$200-250. So if it's a restoration of a valuable bike that might be right to do.

If not the case, start over more carefully.

I am taking the starting over option and chalking this one up to hard earned knowledge

Dean51 

I've successfully extended the threads on two steerer tubes. I added ~3/4" to a bike of my own and ~1/4" for the owner of my LBS. I used a VAR 40B tool that I purchased from a shop that was closing. The 3/4" project took me about 15 minutes to complete and the extra threads on both steerers blended in perfectly with the original threading. I would encourage you to keep looking for someone willing to take on the job.

Dean

merziac

Paging @gugie

@Dfrost may have some input as well.

ryansu

Actually @gugie was the first place I went and he very graciously rebent the original fork for the Cresta, after my crash, and it works and it rides just fine, its just feels different now more like a race bike than a tourer. So my thought was to find a replacement vintage Canti fork to see if I could recapture the feel of the tourer. I am learning allot about forks

merziac

Alright, well I don't think it can hurt to try and thread the fork some more if it can be done without causing any harm. If it doesn't work out its below the normal level and could be ok. That will depend on the craftsman. I know fork threads are tricky so if Mark doesn't want to take it on you may be stuck. If'n it was me I would figure it out for myself, good bad or ugly, as a lifelong mechanic/technician I have fixed and saved most of the threaded debacles I have encountered but that's just me. Been very lucky on many occasions without a doubt.

gugie 

@ryansu

Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.

Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.

Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...