What are you doing today(C&V bicycle related)?
04-17-19, 06:39 PM
#1251
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Pico Rivera, CA
Posts: 4,153
Bikes: 1983 Basso Gap...2013 Colnago CX-1...2015 Bianchi Intenso
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1151 Post(s)
Liked 1,097 Times
in
630 Posts
The smallest details helps me see the big picture.
New O rings for the record calipers.
New O rings for the record calipers.
04-17-19, 07:00 PM
#1252
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 795 Post(s)
Liked 520 Times
in
366 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
@ryansu
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
04-17-19, 07:04 PM
#1253
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 12,494
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 245 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3933 Post(s)
Liked 4,879 Times
in
2,859 Posts
Originally Posted by ryansu
Thanks Man have fork will Travel I will PM you.
04-17-19, 07:09 PM
#1254
Senior Member
@ryansu Gugie is right. I have cut steerer threads with a die and it works fine. It works especially well if you already have some pre-existing threads to start the die down - this keeps the die straight and square with the steerer when it starts doing real cutting.
The dies are made of tool steel which is quite a bit harder than the alloy steels nice forks are made. Any claims that threads can't be cut with a die is nonsense. Yes, if you are working under very tight tolerances in a machine shop, a lathe will always cut cleaner threads, but that tight of a tolerance is not even close to being needed for steerer threads.
The only time to be careful with a die is with chrome-plated steerers. The chrome is very hard and might dull the die a bit, depending on the die.
Put either the die or the fork in a vise and make sure you have good leverage on whichever is not clamped down.
The dies are made of tool steel which is quite a bit harder than the alloy steels nice forks are made. Any claims that threads can't be cut with a die is nonsense. Yes, if you are working under very tight tolerances in a machine shop, a lathe will always cut cleaner threads, but that tight of a tolerance is not even close to being needed for steerer threads.
The only time to be careful with a die is with chrome-plated steerers. The chrome is very hard and might dull the die a bit, depending on the die.
Put either the die or the fork in a vise and make sure you have good leverage on whichever is not clamped down.
04-17-19, 07:13 PM
#1255
Senior Member
Originally Posted by malcala622
The smallest details helps me see the big picture.
New O rings for the record calipers.
New O rings for the record calipers.
04-17-19, 10:24 PM
#1256
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,950
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Mentioned: 162 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 488 Post(s)
Liked 394 Times
in
233 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
@ryansu
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
Many places will not thread a steerer with a manual tool. The claim is that steerers are threaded on a lathe (true statement for new steerers), and you'll wear out the cutting tool. I thought this was the gospel, never cut the threads using a threading tool. The people that go to this church claim the manual tools are for chasing threads, not cutting new ones.
Then I took the UBI framebuilding class, and found that my frame and fork design required a longer threaded steerer than they had in stock. The head instructor found a longer threaded one, handed me the Park threading tool, and told me to have at it.
Bring me that fork, we'll chuck it with some frame clamps in a vice, and you can have at it with my tool. The thing that gets worn out are your arms...
When I asked Elliott Bay Cycles to extend the treads on a replacement fork with a very long steerer tube, they said said they’d only add 1/2” maximum, while I was looking for much more (it was really long steerer, and I was putting it in a 60cm frame). I eventually found a shop that would do it with a die. It wasn’t a difficult process. @ryansu, the shop that did that extension was Alki Bike & Board, just up the street from you. But I also think @gugie would do a better job with appropriate cutting oil, etc.
However, I’ve learned why Elliott Bay would limit the thread extension - the stem expander puts high internal radial stresses on the steerer tube, and a conical-style expander concentrates those stresses in one a short length of the steerer. Imagine if that’s happening in the threaded, hence weakened, section of a steerer. I’m pretty sure that’s what happened to the steerer tube on @RiddleOfSteel’s ‘74 Paramount before his rescue and @gugie’s incredible fix. The steerer tube was broken just above the start of the threading, well below the top of the head tube. BTW, a wedge-style expander has the advantage of spreading the radial stress over a length of the steerer.
So if you do proceed with this fork with extended threads, it sure seems like a very long quill stem, such as the ever-popular Nitto Technomic, would be highly advisable, with a modified minimum insertion that keeps the expander wedge below any threads.
04-17-19, 10:29 PM
#1257
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Pico Rivera, CA
Posts: 4,153
Bikes: 1983 Basso Gap...2013 Colnago CX-1...2015 Bianchi Intenso
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1151 Post(s)
Liked 1,097 Times
in
630 Posts
Originally Posted by TenGrainBread
Very meticulous restoration. Can't wait to see the finished product!
04-18-19, 12:04 AM
#1258
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 12,494
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 245 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3933 Post(s)
Liked 4,879 Times
in
2,859 Posts
Originally Posted by Dfrost
@merziac, I am amazed that you remembered that I was involved in a steerer tube threading project!
When I asked Elliott Bay Cycles to extend the treads on a replacement fork with a very long steerer tube, they said said they’d only add 1/2” maximum, while I was looking for much more (it was really long steerer, and I was putting it in a 60cm frame). I eventually found a shop that would do it with a die. It wasn’t a difficult process. @ryansu, the shop that did that extension was Alki Bike & Board, just up the street from you. But I also think @gugie would do a better job with appropriate cutting oil, etc.
However, I’ve learned why Elliott Bay would limit the thread extension - the stem expander puts high internal radial stresses on the steerer tube, and a conical-style expander concentrates those stresses in one a short length of the steerer. Imagine if that’s happening in the threaded, hence weakened, section of a steerer. I’m pretty sure that’s what happened to the steerer tube on @RiddleOfSteel’s ‘74 Paramount before his rescue and @gugie’s incredible fix. The steerer tube was broken just above the start of the threading, well below the top of the head tube. BTW, a wedge-style expander has the advantage of spreading the radial stress over a length of the steerer.
So if you do proceed with this fork with extended threads, it sure seems like a very long quill stem, such as the ever-popular Nitto Technomic, would be highly advisable, with a modified minimum insertion that keeps the expander wedge below any threads.
04-18-19, 05:26 AM
#1259
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,071
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 438 Post(s)
Liked 791 Times
in
337 Posts
I was grieved to find that the chain wear on my Nishiki was over 1% as I had been doing more riding than checking. Ugh! So time for a new chain. But, oh, check the FW too. Yup the 3rd and 4th cog were shot too. Unless....... So I got out the MOACW (see the new "Mother of all Chain Whips" thread) and spun the threaded cogs off that Suntour Perfect FW. As expected #3 and 4 are splined so I could flip them over. My cog checker indicated that they'd be just fine that way. Cleaned everything and spun #5&6 back on then put it in storage. To ride another day.
New chain on the Nishiki then a test ride. Back in the rotation.
New chain on the Nishiki then a test ride. Back in the rotation.
04-18-19, 08:12 AM
#1260
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,982
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 950 Post(s)
Liked 1,330 Times
in
756 Posts
@ryansu, Davidson is not the place to go to, He usually does not do repairs or resto. He will but when he does it's usually for his own productions. R&E or Cyclefab are more go to places for this type of service needed.
04-18-19, 10:01 AM
#1261
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 795 Post(s)
Liked 520 Times
in
366 Posts
Originally Posted by Mr. 66
@ryansu, Davidson is not the place to go to, He usually does not do repairs or resto. He will but when he does it's usually for his own productions. R&E or Cyclefab are more go to places for this type of service needed.
I had the same sense from Davidson that perhaps the piece work is not where they wanted to spend their time which is fair.
Last edited by ryansu; 04-18-19 at 10:05 AM.
04-18-19, 12:11 PM
#1262
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,272
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 499 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7066 Post(s)
Liked 1,917 Times
in
1,160 Posts
@ryansu, that might be an opportunity to use a 1" threadless headset and stem.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-18-19, 12:36 PM
#1263
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,870
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 795 Post(s)
Liked 520 Times
in
366 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
@ryansu, that might be an opportunity to use a 1" threadless headset and stem.
04-18-19, 01:40 PM
#1264
Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times
in
6 Posts
Arranging delivery of my recent find, a 1993 Bridgestone RB 1 in yellow with Ritchey designed biplane fork. Hoping my short reach brake calipers will work when I build it up with Shimano 600EX parts.
04-18-19, 10:10 PM
#1265
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,358
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3163 Post(s)
Liked 4,734 Times
in
2,465 Posts
Finally did something for the Crescent in overhauling these power shifters ...
And they're still working!
And they're still working!
04-19-19, 08:17 AM
#1267
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, USA
Posts: 40,272
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 499 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7066 Post(s)
Liked 1,917 Times
in
1,160 Posts
Thank you for the exploded view, @SurferRosa. I've never taken those apart. I really like them.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
04-19-19, 02:34 PM
#1268
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,358
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3163 Post(s)
Liked 4,734 Times
in
2,465 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
Thank you for the exploded view...
I think there are some 35 pieces to these shifters. They make Symmetrics (with their internal cam) look simple.
04-26-19, 06:08 PM
#1269
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 8,105
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 1,805 Times
in
915 Posts
Curtis is getting a new fishing bike.
https://baynature.org/article/a-fishing-expedition/
I stop and talk to him whenever I'm riding down that way and need to pay him for all the fish stories, lol.
04-27-19, 11:34 AM
#1270
Hump, what hump?
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: SC midlands
Posts: 1,937
Bikes: See signature
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 336 Post(s)
Liked 227 Times
in
145 Posts
Today I'm looking at my '82 Basso Gap and planning a ride. There's a Trek 400 Elance nearby, awaiting disassembly.
__________________
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
04-27-19, 11:41 AM
#1271
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,262
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super(2)Lemond Maillot Juane (2) & custom,PDG Paramount,Serotta CSI,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Prologue TT,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,Klein Quantum II
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2148 Post(s)
Liked 3,468 Times
in
1,381 Posts
Today will be about test riding. I want to see how the Evans bike I picked up recently feels and then I want to do a shakedown on the NOS mid 90s Vitus Argal that was finished yesterday.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
04-27-19, 02:18 PM
#1272
Raging Suntourophile
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 4,040
Bikes: Schwinn Volare ('78); Raleigh Competition GS ('79)
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 764 Post(s)
Liked 671 Times
in
333 Posts
Trying (again) to solve the sometimes-there tik-tik-tik in my SS drivetrain. Pedals have been eliminated as the source. Today I'm pulling the beat-to-hell 600 arabesque crankset and installing an 80s Cyclone I have laying around.
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
04-29-19, 10:56 AM
#1273
1/2 as far in 2x the time
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,935
Bikes: Yes, Please.
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times
in
220 Posts
Yeah there's still some winter dust. But adjusted and rideable. Some Cable housings are too long but shifts 7 gears liked a dream. Not sure why not 8, but I'm old and don't use the bottom cog anyway.
Here's my favorite new ride, with a modern version of one of my old team jerseys. Pretty decent color match, wait till you see what's under the jersey. Period correct, I think.
I am at home today with a sick daughter, who just needs reassurance that I'm around, so I'm doing a little spring cleaning, and stand-testing bikes before I ride them around the block. I hope to have N-3 rideable today, maybe even N-2 by tonight. Fun stuff! (Not so much for my daughter, but it's nothing serious). Finally happy with the bike/wheel pairings. I'm a wheel nut
and it's taken a while, I've decided about saddles and bar tape mostly too, at least for now
Last edited by Last ride 76; 04-29-19 at 02:10 PM.
04-29-19, 11:24 AM
#1274
Senior Member
I solved my gearing problem. I love riding my Trek 750 with last generation Super Record, but trying to ride around SW Wisconsin with 42x24 granny gear just doesn't work anymore. It is do-able, but just not a good idea. So I stumbled across a TA Carmina crank. These are the cranks that let you install your own spider and run just about any combination of rings and sizes. Peter White Cycles has lots of TA stuff in stock so I got a 110 spider and a couple of TA Zephyr rings, and now I have gear inches (48/34 rings) compatible with my terrain and age. I used the existing Campy spindle and get almost the same chain line - the right crank leaves room for a third ring so it kicks the chain line out a few mm. It shifts the front really well, in part because the modern TA rings have ramps. They look pretty good on a CV also.
04-29-19, 04:36 PM
#1275
1/2 as far in 2x the time
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,935
Bikes: Yes, Please.
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times
in
220 Posts
Originally Posted by ldmataya
I solved my gearing problem. I love riding my Trek 750 with last generation Super Record, but trying to ride around SW Wisconsin with 42x24 granny gear just doesn't work anymore. It is do-able, but just not a good idea. So I stumbled across a TA Carmina crank. These are the cranks that let you install your own spider and run just about any combination of rings and sizes. Peter White Cycles has lots of TA stuff in stock so I got a 110 spider and a couple of TA Zephyr rings, and now I have gear inches (48/34 rings) compatible with my terrain and age. I used the existing Campy spindle and get almost the same chain line - the right crank leaves room for a third ring so it kicks the chain line out a few mm. It shifts the front really well, in part because the modern TA rings have ramps. They look pretty good on a CV also.
