tronnyjenkins 

I'm new to vintage, but thinking 80's? Might pick it up if it's worth the trip.

oddjob2

1982+/- Catalogs at cyclespeugeot.com

SkyDog75

It's hard to tell from that pic since all the components are on the other side of the bike, but my guess is a 1983 UO-14. Pretty low in Peugeot's model lineup. I'm basing the guess on comparisons to catalog pics & specs: midnight blue, same decal scheme, had no chrome on the fork, downtube shifters, and centerpull brakes.

As for whether it's worth the trip, I suppose that depends on how much it costs!

tronnyjenkins 

I grabbed it for $80.
Will give details about it when I get home.

jimmuller 

I can't tell what model it is any better than anyone else, but it looks like you did well! I'm not a big fan of the tri-bar but that's easily changed anyway. If that bike has alloy wheels (I can't tell but it looks like it) and if the derailleurs are good then you are in good shape. Ride, report, repeat!

(But do check maintenance items like bearings, tires, etc.)

tronnyjenkins 

Indeed, it has light alloy wheels. Weinmann with Maillard hubs. Not sure what the components are. I'm pretty new to old, haha.


Will do! I'm in the middle of restoring an old Le Tour II, so I've already got the tools, etc.
I'm thinking it's not too valuable monetarily, but maybe a decent bike to keep around when I don't want to worry about someone stealing my Allez Sport. What pedals are those? Nashbar?

tronnyjenkins 

Oh, and those tri bars are definitely coming off. Haha. I'll leave the free Cateye and pump though

Chombi

Fully lugged and forged Simplex dropouts means it's not a low end model. It's most likely mid level.
Is there any tubing decals on the frame. I suspect it's at least straight gauge CrMo (Maybe Vitus?) at the main frame tubes.
Definitely a very good bargain for what you paid for it!

jimmuller 

Yeah, as I said earlier, nice bike. Those derailleurs look like early or mid-80's. The rear may be an SX810GT or similar. I can never remember the exact number, but it doesn't matter. That's what we have on our Peugeot tandem, not the lightest in the world but by golly they do work. The crank looks like an early 80's Peugeot-branded Stronglight, also what came on our tandem. I couldn't say what those pedals are. Everybody has their own opinion on pedals and mine don't extend to those modern contraptions.

clubman 

You got a decent $80 rider and something to play with. I suspect those cranks may be Sugino made, should say on the inside. Clean it, tune it and go. Please ditch wheel reflectors with tri-bars

Lascauxcaveman 

Yep, you did fine. That (SX630?) rear derailleur would probably go for about $80 on eBay. It's not the best shifting long cage of its era, but is uncommon enough so that it exacts a premium price. And are those concave rims? They are sought after by enough vintage afficianados the they would fetch another $80 or more as a wheelset. And even if you don't care about the value of the parts, it'll be a decent ride once you have it nicely tuned and lubed. Enjoy!

oddjob2

Is there a paper tag on the left chainstay by the pedal. Top line is SN, bottom line is model designation, then frame size.

bertinjim 

tronnyjenkins-

You've got a nice rider there. The mainframe will probably be Vitus 181 or 172 or Reynolds 501. The equipment is good quality French and the crankset is a Stronglight 99 which is excellent. Clean it up and enjoy!

SkyDog75

Nice score for $80! I think it is a 1983 UO-14. (It's an awfully nice bike for a "low end" UO-series bike. Much, much nicer than the ubiquitous UO-8's from the previous decades!)

Here are the specs from the catalog:

tronnyjenkins 

Thanks you guys. I'm almost positive it's an '83 UO14 as you have said, just can't find the paper on the chainstay. All the specs match though.
I'm actually headed over right now to look at one that hopefully matches my birth year of '86. It's an oddly good week on Craigslist. If I pick it up, that'll be three bikes in one week. My wife is going to murder me.

tronnyjenkins 

I think it's an '86 Galibier (PGN10)? I really like the fact that it has 700c rims and is a bit lighter than the blue one. I'll fix 'em both up and see which one rides nicest!
It's FILTHY and the tires are a bit on the crunchy side...

Chombi

Per the label on the chainstay, it is a model "PH501", not a PGN.
The PGN has full Reynolds (butted) 501 frame and fork. The PH501 only has it on the 3 main tubes (could be straight gauge too). The fork and stays would be High Tensile tubing from Peugeot (Peugeot HLE or Carbolite 103). The PGN has full lugs on its frame while the PH501 uses Peugeot's proprietary "internally brazed", lugless type construction.
TDespite being a lower mid level bike, the PH501 should still be relatively light, compared to most bikes of the same level from other manufacturers and should ride very good as most 80's Peugeots do. It's more geared towards the sport/light tourers, so do not expect it to perform like a race bike,....... unless you do enough mods to it.

tronnyjenkins 

Dang, you're right! Haha. I wasn't expecting the model to be that obvious to be honest. I had missed that in the '85 catalogs.
I'm mostly just looking for a fun cruiser. My riding buddies are going to be very surprised when I show up on one of these Peugeots on Saturday...

tronnyjenkins 

How important is it to tear down and re lube the bottom bracket on both of these bikes? I've done everything else (hubs/bearings/degreased/checked chain stretch/degreased and relubed headset) but I don't know if I can get the bottom bracket open with the tools I have.
It seems to spins freely, but I know that grease has got to be pretty old, judging from what I found in the wheels.

jimmuller 

It isn't important to re-lub the BB unless the grease is dried out or a bearing is fractured or it has collected a bunch of dirt or one of the races is becoming pitted. But how would you know? In other words, you can keep riding it but if you want to guarantee greater longevity then repacking it is work doing. Get a set of BB tools and the correct crank extractor. Or borrow them. Or take the bike to a co-op. If you do it yourself, don't remove the drive-side bearing cup. Clean it from inside the BB shell. If it looks pitted then you'll have to replace it, but otherwise do not remove it. Repacking the BB isn't hard, can be fun. But it does require the correct tools. If you work on many other bikes you'll be glad you have them.

dddd

I often just lay the bike on it's side and apply thick oil to the spindle/cup interface, allowing the few drops time to sink into the bearings depending on how cold it is.
Don't move the cranks while the bike is laying there, you don't want the oil to mix with the dirt and crud that is present.
Then do the other side.
Then it should be good for a thousand miles no problem if the adjustment is ok.
If the bike accumulates mileage, I give the bb a proper rebuild.
You can even shoot grease into the assembled bb using a flattened capillary tube on a spray can:

tronnyjenkins 

Thanks for the tip! I didn't think about spray can lithium grease.

So, if I do feel ambitious, what tools do I need to service this guy, that doesn't come in this kit?
I think the cranks are Sugino?

jimmuller 

That toolkit? It does not contain the the BB tools you'll need. In fact, except for the crank extractor it won't do at all. Modern BB's use a tool with splines which insert into the cups. What you need is a wrench with a large hook that has a tab on the end, like this:

Sugino Bottom Bracket Cup Lockring Remover Tool Wrench Spanner 15020363 | eBay

or this:

Park Tool Bottom Bracket Hook Spanner Wrench - HCW-5 - REI.com

That Sugino tool came in a set paired with another tool with a set of pins that fit into holes in the adjustable cup so you could hold it steady while tightening the lock ring:

Sugino Mighty Competition Adjusatble Bottom Bracket Adjustable Cup Pin Tool | eBay

One more thing to consider. That crank extractor (upper left corner, underneath that triangle thingy) must have the correct threads. That one is most certainly the typical threads, but TA and Stronglight each used different threads at least up until the early 80's. If that one doesn't fit your crank arms exactly perfectly with no slop, then it isn't the right one.

That toolkit does have a bunch of stuff you may eventually find useful, such as the chain tool, modern Shimano FW tool, cone wrenches, the chainring bolt wrench. I couldn't say what any of the quality is like. But it doesn't contain what you are looking for.

tronnyjenkins 

I already have the kit and have been putting it through it's paces. It's NOT Park Tool quality, but for the limited amount of work I do, it'll be OK.
Thanks for the info regarding the proper tools. I just had no idea where to start and wasn't having a whole lot of luck on Google for this specific type of Peugeot.

tronnyjenkins 

Think this is an '86 Ventoux Jamaica Blue? Looks like a Reynolds 501 sticker on the DT and maybe the fork?
Perhaps a 54 frame? Hard to tell with no better pics.
This one is kind of far from me, but might make a cool conversion since the decals are faded so bad.

https://cyclespeugeot.com/PDFs/1986pdf.pdf