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Narhay's Raleigh Super Course

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Narhay's Raleigh Super Course

Old 02-17-15, 12:29 AM
  #1  
Narhay
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Narhay's Raleigh Super Course

I purchased this one for near market value today which is a bit unusual but when I saw it I couldn't stop thinking about it and had to have it. It was just the right colour, mostly original and a size I've been meaning to try out (58cm seat tube c-c, 59cm c-t). I will turn it into a rider. If anyone knows the year I'd be interesting. I'm thinking like 1974-1975-ish.

Plans are to tear down, rebuild and service all bearings. I'd like some brown Cane Creek brake hoods, brown bar wrap (suggestions?), Panaracer Paselas with tan walls, upgrade the seatpost, may upgrade the derailleurs and add barcons, swap the narrow saddle for a regular width B17, throw a new nickel plated freewheel, Kool Stop continental brake pads, new chain and drop about 5 pounds by binning the kickstand, dork disk and lighting system.

- 58cm seat tube c-c, 59cm c-t Reynolds 531 main tubes Raleigh Super Course
- Replacement 1" chrome fork with English threading, 190mm steerer tube and Tange headset. The previous owner (94 year old man) said he had not crashed it but someone had stolen the fork? Odd but there is no frame damage. The fork is damaged beyond repair. I am looking for a replacement original fork or something equivalent.
- Brooks B17 Champion Narrow Saddle in brown/natural colour. I may see if I can trade this for a standard B17 width at some point.
- Weinmann 750/610 Vainqueure 999 centerpull brakes
- Suntour GT rear derailleur (heavy, steel?..may replace)
- Suntour VX front derailleur. Missing cage bolt...may replace).
- Weinmann brake levers with original white Carlton hoods. Are the non-aero Cane Creek hoods a good fitting replacement?
- Huret downtube shifters. I may go with some Suntour barcons eventually but I'll try these for now.
- Suzue hubs, 27" x 1-1/4" Araya Rims. Are 1-1/4" wide tires safe to put on these rims? I was hoping for 1" Panaracer Paselas but I guess that won't happen...or can it?
- Suntour freewheel with a huge range
- GB stem and bars
- Sweet lighting system with bar end mounted switch
- Awesome kickstand
- Unknown steel quill pedals with markings RI 501.
- Standard clamp seatpost. Looks like 26.2 or 26.4. Anyone know? I'd like to replace it with a modern aluminum seatpost.
- Stronglight 52-42 steel cottered crank. The inner chainring is rubbing the chainstay at some parts of the rotation and it just looks like it isn't put together properly (loose chainring) or bolted in the right order. Is this the way they are supposed to look?





















Last edited by Narhay; 02-17-15 at 01:47 AM.
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Old 02-17-15, 12:32 AM
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Old 02-17-15, 12:35 AM
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And I threw a couple hours of work into it already stripping it down. Everything came out quite nicely, actually. Nothing was stuck, save one item. The freewheel ate my Filzer Suntour freewheel remover. I thought something would give way as I was hanging off the wheel and it finally did. POPPPPP POW ZINNNNG across the room...TING, TING, TINGTINGITNGITINGITNG as it settled. What the heck? I thought maybe the freewheel had given up the ghost. Well, freewheel 1, remover 0.







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Old 02-17-15, 01:27 AM
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Well this just put a bit of a damper on things. I guess I'll need to source that fork sooner rather than later. Just as well, this Tange fork has some rust at the crown.

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Old 02-17-15, 05:02 AM
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Those white hooded levers clean up very good. You should keep those.

Good luck. Super Courses are nice riding bikes!
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Old 02-17-15, 08:24 AM
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The Super Course of that era is a true classic worth fixing up and riding.

I remember the super-long Huret shift levers that Raleigh used a couple of model years before yours. I like yours better, but SunTour barcons would be good, as well. The SunTour rear derailleur is an upgrade from the original Huret.

The correct seat post outer diameter is probably 26.4mm, which is what my 1959 Capo, a straight gauge Reynolds 531 frame comparable to yours, takes.

Too bad about the freewheel. If it is in decent shape, you can just leave it on when you repack the wheel bearings. This is a bit awkward and inconvenient, but I have done it, using lots of grease to hold the individual bearings in place. If the ratchet or cogs are shot, consider disassembling the freewheel and grabbing the body in a vise to unscrew it from the hub.

A few tricks I have used for freewheel removal:
0) try to get some penetrating lube oil or spray into the freewheel-hub contact area; soak overnight, if possible
1) put the puller in a bench-mounted vise and secure it with the quick release skewer
2) leave the tire on the rim, for better grip and leverage
3) grab the tire at 3:00 and 9:00 and give it an abrupt anticlockwise jerk
4) if that fails, give it a quick reversing clockwise - anticlockwise double jerk
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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Old 02-17-15, 08:36 AM
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You may use any 27" tire on those rims, with the caveat that you should keep the pressure below 80 PSI if the rims are smooth-sided, rather than hooked. This in turn would argue for wider tires, such as 27x1-1/4", which take a lower pressure than narrower ones. 27x1" is a safe choice only if you have hooked rims. Sometimes the tire sidewall will tell you whether the tire requires a hooked rim, or it may give two different maximum pressure ratings.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 02-17-15, 08:45 AM
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Probably 1972 or '73. By '74 the SuperCourse was the MkII model. Wheels aren't original and probably would have come with Simplex mechs rather than Huret. I might actually have a replacement fork for you, but that's provided I can straighten the fork on my '69 Super Course (which currently is using the replacement from a later model).
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Old 02-17-15, 08:45 AM
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Thank you for the suggestions. I would like to remove the freewheel because of the spoke protector. I like to disassemble everything when I get it so that I can completely rebuild it...it is almost therapeutic. Now that it is stuck on there pretty good I will have to remove it...one way or another. Funny how the cotters popped right out without a fuss but the darn freewheel breaks my tool.

I researched new forks last night. Looks like eBay might be the best bet for one of the chrome hi-ten sunlite replacement forks for about $40. I was hoping to get something cr-mo but they only appear to be available in 1-1/4" diameters.
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Old 02-17-15, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by John E View Post
You may use any 27" tire on those rims, with the caveat that you should keep the pressure below 80 PSI if the rims are smooth-sided, rather than hooked. This in turn would argue for wider tires, such as 27x1-1/4", which take a lower pressure than narrower ones. 27x1" is a safe choice only if you have hooked rims. Sometimes the tire sidewall will tell you whether the tire requires a hooked rim, or it may give two different maximum pressure ratings.
Thank you...I'll pull the tires off tonight and see what I'm working with.
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Old 02-17-15, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Probably 1972 or '73. By '74 the SuperCourse was the MkII model. Wheels aren't original and probably would have come with Simplex mechs rather than Huret. I might actually have a replacement fork for you, but that's provided I can straighten the fork on my '69 Super Course (which currently is using the replacement from a later model).
Thanks for the approximate dating. I was going on the riveted heron headbadge (not oval) and no strikethrough in the Super Course decal. I was erring to the later side of early 70s as the RALEIGH decal was all capitals and slightly slanted.

I doubted the mechs and wheels were original but the wheels seem to be in quite good condition. I actually have a Nuovo Record RD and I will find a 28.6mm clamp on NR FD that I may throw on there. Maybe overkill but they're two pieces of kit I'll keep around if I ever sell this bike.

I'm still concerned about the chainstay rubbing on the smallest chainring. It seems like the crankset is put together correctly but obviously the fact that it rubs is incorrect. The bottom bracket is 68mm wide so looks like I don't have to worry about 26TPI threading issues.
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Old 02-17-15, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
Thank you for the suggestions. I would like to remove the freewheel because of the spoke protector. I like to disassemble everything when I get it so that I can completely rebuild it...it is almost therapeutic. Now that it is stuck on there pretty good I will have to remove it...one way or another.
I feel your pain cuz I'm the same way. I've just been down this path with my 68 Grand Prix. After almost 40 years that FW body was real stuck. I disassembled the FW in place to expose the body. Frankly it was a month of leaking penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) into the gap between the body and the spoke protector. Several Saturdays sitting next to the hot wood stove and more oil. Finally I used my hot air blower then clamped it in my real good vice with nice sharp jaws. Grabbed 3:00 and 9:00 and snapped it CCW and it came free. Remember when you remove the pawls you have two clamping points (at least on my Atom FW I did) that could be grabbed tight in the vice. These clamp point are well above the bearing race so I knew that if the body got damaged by the vice jaws (it did not) I could just file it clean and keep going.

Good luck. Take you time. It's winter after all.
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Old 02-18-15, 02:26 AM
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Thanks...I'm going to soak it and bring it to the co op and use their vice. I've been using a wrench clamped in my work stand and it has actually worked more times than I can count but I'll need to borrow their suntour tool now too.

I made a little progress today. I cleaned out the bottom bracket and the cup races are nice. The crank has a bit of light pitting but it cleaned up nicely with the wire wheel. The spindle isn't too bad but there is a slight bit of pitting forming. I'm still at a loss as to how to deal with the rubbing chainring. Is the spindle too short? Not seated far down the spindle when the cotter was pressed in? Chainring loose or incorrectly installed? The chain also fell between the chainrings and got stuck when I was shifting on the work stand. Maybe the chainring spacers are too wide? I dunno...I'm at a loss until I can put the crank back on.
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Old 02-18-15, 02:49 AM
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It must be a '72 then. My '73 had Capella lugs...and it seems like I remember reading that they were a one year only lug (but I very well could be mistaken on that).

The RALEIGH and the SUPERCOURSE look the same as mine though.

Either way, you've got a real beauty there.

I have some of the original parts laying around if you need anything. I'm not gonna be using them.
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Old 02-18-15, 07:28 PM
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You could try a 1mm spacer between the fixed cup and the bb shell to pull that crankset away from the frame a bit. Or 2 mm if you have enough clearance on the nds.
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Old 02-18-15, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Essthreetee View Post
It must be a '72 then. My '73 had Capella lugs...and it seems like I remember reading that they were a one year only lug (but I very well could be mistaken on that).

The RALEIGH and the SUPERCOURSE look the same as mine though.

Either way, you've got a real beauty there.

I have some of the original parts laying around if you need anything. I'm not gonna be using them.
You are correct - the Capella lugs denote a 1973 model, and were only used that year.
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Old 02-20-15, 03:52 PM
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I will be away for the next 10 days so progress is halted for the time being.

I did manage to order a few items and everything should arrive by the time I return.

Deda Mistral brown leather wrap
Dia-compe brown brake hoods
New chrome 27" fork. Unfortunately I had to go with high ten as I wasn't able to find a 27" fork that would match with a 1" threaded steerer made out of cr-mo or better.
New brake hangers
Panaracer Pasela 27*1" tan wall tires
New rim tape
New 5 speed sunrace freewheel 14-28. I wasn't able to find anything new with a max cog of 26 teeth so I can use my campy nr rd. Not sure which rd I will go with now.
New chain KMC Z33 NP
New cables and black jagwire/sunlite housing
Kool stop salmon continental brake pads
Sunlite fluted seatpost in 26.4
Brake housing button for the lever because the mirror replaced one.

It is looking like it will come together sooner rather than later but there are still a number of issues to address.
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Old 02-21-15, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
The chain also fell between the chainrings and got stuck when I was shifting on the work stand. Maybe the chainring spacers are too wide? I dunno...I'm at a loss until I can put the crank back on.
What a funny old world! I've just had THAT problem too. I thought that I had an original chain but it must be a replacement - fell between the rings when shifting down, about half the time. I even asked the PO about what a PIA that must have been. "I don't remember that. It was thirty years ago that I rode it."

My crankset is the Nicklin version of the '60s Williams cranks. Probably never been off the bike and surely never taken apart since that day, at the corner of Walter and Raleigh, that they assembled the machine. The chain that came on the bike measured 8mm across the plates and the spacing between the rings was 8mm. How weird. Is that normal for that era? All original Nicklin spacers too. I puzzled over this for a week or two then decided to change the spacing - set aside the stock spacer nuts from between the big and small ring.

FYI this set has three bolts, hex head on the outside. The first set of spacer nuts have a turned down shoulder that fits into the ring and centers the bolt. The small ring goes on top of those nuts and the second, identical, set of nuts screw on to center the small ring and tighten that on. All the spacer nuts were 4mm thick at the hex section = 4mm spacing between the rings. The rings are not flat - their dished shape creates the other 4mm of the total 8mm spacing. So I had to rummage around in my piles of stuff "too small and too interesting to throw away" in order to find something I could to use to center the bolts in the big ring, instead of the first set of nuts. Did that.

I then took the vernier caliper to the hardware store and selected 3 steel washers that fit over the bolts and were the same thickness (actually a wee bit less than 2mm). I used those instead of the stock spacer nuts and put it all back together, using blue Locktite thread juice. Now the spacing is just under 6mm and the shifting is just fine. Chain line on the small ring is still OK too ~ 40mm. The ancient chains must have been greater than 8mm wide though. Must have run OK on the 5.5mm spaced cogset. I donno.
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Old 02-21-15, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
The chain also fell between the chainrings and got stuck when I was shifting on the work stand. Maybe the chainring spacers are too wide? I dunno...I'm at a loss until I can put the crank back on.
Originally Posted by Prowler View Post
What a funny old world! I've just had THAT problem too. I thought that I had an original chain but it must be a replacement - fell between the rings when shifting down, about half the time.
This is becoming a common problem as cog spacing becomes narrower to allow packing more cogs onto the rear cluster. I've seen it with my old TA cranks: modern chains are narrow enough to fall between the chainrings and jam. If you can find a wider chain, it usually helps (7-speed is about the widest available these days); otherwise cobbling around with spacers as you've done will work.
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Old 02-21-15, 01:30 PM
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I have a couple KMC chains with 7.3mm wide pins as stated on the box. My chainring spacers were just your standard donut shape. I'll rummage around to find something smaller as that may help the rubbing issue as well.
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Old 02-21-15, 01:41 PM
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...l#post17485109
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Old 02-21-15, 08:10 PM
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Thanks. I read through many of those pages and will post this one once I have a before and after.
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Old 02-23-15, 09:56 PM
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I'm just about convinced the bike is early 1973 before Capella lugs showed up. Does anyone know what Reynolds 531 decal this bike should have?

I am half convinced I should get a paint match for the front fork and paint the upper portion of them. And possibly a whole set of new decals as these ones are peeling off.

Ive sourced a few more items for this build.

Campagnolo Nuovo Record rear dérailleur
Campagnolo Nuovo Record front dérailleur, 28.6mm clamp
Dura Ace First Generation crank 52-39 and 68mm bottom bracket. I purchased a new sugino ring to replace the worn 39T on the crank.
Suntour barcons and some nos lever covers
DNP Epoch 14-24 5 speed freewheel
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Old 02-24-15, 07:37 AM
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Fwiw, the '73 Raleigh catalog does list Capella lugs for the Super Course, and the '72 catalog lists Nervex. I wouldn't be surprised if there was some overlap, however.
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Old 03-07-15, 12:53 AM
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The items for the rebuild have arrived.

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