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Late 70's early 80's Moto Mirage Restoration

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Late 70's early 80's Moto Mirage Restoration

Old 03-21-15, 08:46 AM
  #1  
awaffa2003
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Late 70's early 80's Moto Mirage Restoration

Hey all, new to the site but I've been lurking for some time trying to gather bicycle know-how. I'm pretty new to the whole thing, being a lifelong motorcycle enthusiast, I didn't pay much attention to bicycles until I got my dad's old Motobecane Mirage. He said it was ready to go, which it wasn't. Taking it to a local bike shop, they said it needed a new rear wheel as the old hub wasn't cost effective to service and the rim was bent. The front hub also needed bearings so I figured, why not just replace both wheels. So while the wheels were off, I started looking at the rest of the bike and thought the parts could use a good cleaning of all the grease and road grime.... a day later and the whole bike is disassembled, bagged and labeled with parts going in one at a time to my ultrasonic cleaner. Paint is next. The forks are stripped, but the frame is proving a tad more difficult. In any case, just wanted to share my new project and passion for bicycles with you guys. Any painting tips would be appreciated.
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Old 03-21-15, 09:17 AM
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The color of the Jaguar is the color I want to paint the bike. Pearl white head tube, silver fork and rear frame lowers with gold pinstriping under the lugs. It's not going too bad. I'm ready to prime, but what is a good grit to end on? Or would it matter with self etching primer?
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Old 03-21-15, 09:45 AM
  #3  
jimmuller 
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Nice looking bike. In the first pic of the fork, what are those splotches in the paint? Primer, or a cleaning solution?

The reason I ask is that the frame appears to be in good shape. It is your bike to do with as you please but a common phrase around here is "it is original only once". Essentially it argues against wanting to repaint an old frame "just because". A good paint job is neither easy nor cheap, and since it was your dad's bike why not keep the original color? Making it look new isn't always the right idea, given that it has a lot of history otherwise known as age. The soft metallic blue is sort of iconic.

But if the paint is already trashed, and especially if you do painting already and have access to the stuff and place to do it, then paint it. I suspect if you did car painting you wouldn't need to ask us about what grit to end on.

The same arguments hold for your wheel replacement. Don't necessarily believe what a LBS guy says. The question really is, what is wrong with the hubs that you can't service them yourself? Corroded bearing races are a show-stopper, but cleaning and repacking bearings is easy and required no more than the right cone wrench. A tube of Phil Wood grease is cheap and bearings are ridiculously cheap.

The rim may be a problem. If the wheel is just a bit out of true then maybe it can be tweaked straight again. A new rim and spokes are no more expensive than a new cheap wheel. Are both wheel trashed or just one?

What I'm sayin' (and trying to be respectful when saying it) is, don't necessarily jump to a full-bore rebuild/replace/upgrade on everything. Here in C&V we like 'em looking worn and ridden too! A common noobie mistake is to ask "Should I repaint my bike? I've already striped it. I want to restore it to is former glory... And the LBS guy said I needed index shifting so I bought a 128-speed Shimano system but it doesn't fit and I want all aero cables" when in fact, it was a common mid-level good-riding bike in its day and is now both rare and a family heirloom. Instead, ride it a bunch, learn its personality, let the color sink into your eyes in all sorts of light, listen to how it speaks when you shift or sings at speed on (new) tires.

But that's just my opinion.l

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Old 03-21-15, 10:11 AM
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Thanks Jim, all points duly noted, but the paint had quite a few good dings in it causing rust spots that didn't sit well with me. Also the crank had some good gouges in it so the anodizing was stripped and the parts are being polished. This is not a fun job, but the result is quite rewarding.
So no, it's not a full rebuild, just a sprucing I suppose. A gentleman I ran into outside the bike shop asked me what I had there and I showed him the wheels, he said I should hang them up in my shop as antiques lol. Kinda liked that idea.
But no, I don't wan't a million gears, I would like to keep it as original as possible with the only exceptions being the paint, wheels and cassette.
Possibly a new seat, but the idea is to get this thing on the road asap.

Edit: Jim, I think I'm well on my way to proper cycling...I'll be using toe clips lol.
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Old 03-21-15, 02:17 PM
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i consider a full rebuild the same as a full overhaul, which includes: complete disassembly (except for three headset parts pressed into the frameset and the bottom bracket fixed cup), overhaul of all components (headset, bb, rear derailleur, and both hubs), reassemby, final adjustment, and then adding new consumables (cables and housing in the least).

as far as what an lbs says about your wheels, they may be full of it, or maybe not. they would certainly like to sell you a new set. refurbishing wheels is a lot of work. but i do it nearly every time i buy a bike.

i love to overhaul hubs. it's fun. what's not always fun is the rest of it: oiling all nipples, retensioning them, replacing spokes/nipples either bent or won't turn, polishing any warp out of a rim, truing a bent rim, etc.

but there's really nothing like a new set of wheels. feels like a new bike.

good luck.
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Old 03-21-15, 05:21 PM
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Yeah, honestly I'm not trying to get into the hubs. Lacing and truing is out of my capacity, as are the tools to do it. That and the used wheel that the lbs guy was going to try and sell me is the same price as the one I'm looking at online. Is alloy vs. steel rims a touchy subject around here?
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Old 03-21-15, 05:47 PM
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Alloy is the way to go. You can probably get a decent pair of alloy wheels at your local bike shop (LBS) starting at about $120 or so.
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Old 03-21-15, 05:53 PM
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Alloy vs steel rims is actually an important point of differentiation. Steel rims are much heavier and much slicker when wet. I would think the Mirage would have had alloy rims, though maybe not if it's from the early 70s.

As noted above, overhauling hubs is no big deal if you're at all handy and have a few tools, some grease and bearings. It is kind of a satisfying ritual. Truing can easily be done 'well enough' by the eyeball-and-brakepads method if they're only slightly out. If the old rims are seriously out or the hubs have problems, there are lots of older wheelsets in good condition or inexpensive newer ones available, all pretty cheap. I don't know that paying someone to true a set of 27" Normandy/Weinmann wheels would be a good investment; if the rims are steel then absolutely not!

The Mirage was an entry-level bike so don't worry about originality, there are lots of them around including some that never saw rain.
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Old 03-21-15, 06:07 PM
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Sun CR18 27 5,6,7 Speed Freewheel hubs Road Bike Wheelset [72274726665] - $115.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

27" wheel set for $115 with Sun CR18 rims.
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Old 03-21-15, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by awaffa2003 View Post
Yeah, honestly I'm not trying to get into the hubs.
you should. park cone wrenches are like $5 each. i have three of them allowing me to adjust any hub. (two 13/14mm, and one 15/16mm.) a socket set and an adjustable wrench are also useful.

Lacing and truing is out of my capacity, as are the tools to do it.
that's what i thought, and i paid some idiot to build a bad set of wheels for me. i also paid for a bunch of simple 'truings' before i bought a $4 park wrench and started reading sheldon brown. anybody that can bake a cake can build a wheel. all that's needed is that wrench, a screwdriver, a rubber band, and your upside down bike frame. just follow sheldon's wheel building page to a 't.'

it's really simple. i'm on a mission to spread the good word about this, because people are too easily led astray thinking there's some magic about it.
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Old 03-22-15, 02:13 PM
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Would these front/rear sets do?
Amazon.com : Wheel Rear 27 x 1-1/4, Silver, 36H Bolt On : Bike Wheels : Sports & Outdoors by Wheel Master
or
https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver...bxgy_sg_text_y by Sta-Tru

And I SWEAR!!! I don't need a million gears! BUT I'm looking on Amazon for parts and I see cheap 5 gear cassettes from $10-$13...as well as a Shimano 6 speed for $14. My LBS was trying to sell me a Shimano for $21, not gonna happen.

My newest problem is that when I prime and sand, my surfaces stay fine, but the corners of the lugs keep rubbing down to bare metal. I can't keep painting and getting the coats thicker when the corners end up bare. Brush??
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