Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
Reload this Page >

Best road tire pressure for a Clyde

Notices
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

Best road tire pressure for a Clyde

Old 04-14-15, 07:05 PM
  #1  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Best road tire pressure for a Clyde





My S-WORKS TURBO specs are 115 to 125 psi but ive been breaking things even at 109.

Im at 100 psi and getting better ride and deflection.

Is 90 psi unheard of for a 275 pound man ?
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 07:24 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
ChrisZog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 181

Bikes: 2005 Specialized Sirrus Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've always heard that us clydes are better off riding at the max pressure for the tires. Lower pressure will feel better but won't it wear the wheels faster? I'm riding on 700c 32s at 80 PSI (the max). My wife is not an athena and she complains of bumpy roads when she rides at 120psi on her 28s so she deflates a bit.

I think tubless tires can go a bit lower but are heavier. That may be one option if your wheels are tubeless ready. Does that bike have Zertz like the Secteur and Roubaix? I assume those would deal with the road "noise" a bit more.
ChrisZog is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 07:26 PM
  #3  
RR3
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
What is the width? 26mm? If so, you might be able to get away with 85psi front and 100psi rear.....give or take 10 psi.

If they are 24mm, 90psi in the rear might risk pinch flats and I would say it would be a bit low for your weight......90 psi front should be reasonable.

The wider the tire, the lower pressure you need. The more weight on a wheel/tire, the more pressure it needs to run optimally. When I was 250, I ran 32mm tires at 70 front and 80 psi rear. I am lighter now and run 28mm front at 75-80 psi and 32mm rear at 75-80 psi. I run 90 front and 105 rear on 25mm tires on my fast bike.

It does not look like your frame has room for wider tires?
RR3 is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 07:46 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
echefanthony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 59

Bikes: 2015 Fuji Tread 1.5 2013 Gravity 27Five Singlespeed

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by CNC2204




My S-WORKS TURBO specs are 115 to 125 psi but ive been breaking things even at 109.

Im at 100 psi and getting better ride and deflection.

Is 90 psi unheard of for a 275 pound man ?
I'm 225 when at the beginning of the season and I have always pumped my tires up to the max. When I didn't because I wanted a nicer ride I would get more pinch flats. Also if you run lower pressure your likely to do some damage to your wheels if you hit something just a little bit the wrong way. This is all from bad experiences so I've learned my lesson and pump them up to the max just before every ride.
echefanthony is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 07:49 PM
  #5  
RR3
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
How will lower pressure do damage to a wheel? Unless it is so low that you get pinch flats, I don''t buy it.
RR3 is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 07:56 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
echefanthony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 59

Bikes: 2015 Fuji Tread 1.5 2013 Gravity 27Five Singlespeed

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by RR3
How will lower pressure do damage to a wheel? Unless it is so low that you get pinch flats, I don''t buy it.
It depends on how heavy you are too, think about the wheel hitting something at a lower preasure if the tire doesn't have enough preasure to withstand the hit you could possibly have the hit go all the way down to the wheel causing damage. I've seen slow motion videos before showing how it happens with lower preasure tires. I don't know exactly what the safe lowest preasure is but imo it probably depends on weight and tire width.
echefanthony is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 08:39 PM
  #7  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RR3
What is the width? 26mm? If so, you might be able to get away with 85psi front and 100psi rear.....give or take 10 psi.

If they are 24mm, 90psi in the rear might risk pinch flats and I would say it would be a bit low for your weight......90 psi front should be reasonable.

The wider the tire, the lower pressure you need. The more weight on a wheel/tire, the more pressure it needs to run optimally. When I was 250, I ran 32mm tires at 70 front and 80 psi rear. I am lighter now and run 28mm front at 75-80 psi and 32mm rear at 75-80 psi. I run 90 front and 105 rear on 25mm tires on my fast bike.

It does not look like your frame has room for wider tires?
Yes, 700x26 but the tire crown is very narrow and contact patch very small like a 23 or 24.

Ive run 23's, 25's & 28's [not all on this bike].

The S-WORKS TURBO is the fastest tire ive run, i average upper 30's every ride.

I'm sticking with 100 psi til the tires soften up a little [new] and it gets hotter.

I will drop 15 to 20 pounds in the next couple months easy, do it every summer.

Bout the time i get looking good this thing called winter comes along and screws everything up ...

Last edited by CNC2204; 04-14-15 at 08:42 PM.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 08:43 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204
Im at 100 psi and getting better ride and deflection.

Is 90 psi unheard of for a 275 pound man ?
I use this formula. It works as well as anything I've tried. For most Clydes, it's going to suggest running at the maximum pressure your tire (and rim) can support. I would think that at 90-100psi you'd be asking for pinch flats (or bent rims!) should you ride on pavement that's less than billiard table smooth.
sstorkel is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 08:52 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
echefanthony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 59

Bikes: 2015 Fuji Tread 1.5 2013 Gravity 27Five Singlespeed

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by CNC2204
Yes, 700x26 but the tire crown is very narrow and contact patch very small like a 23 or 24.

Ive run 23's, 25's & 28's [not all on this bike].

The S-WORKS TURBO is the fastest tire ive run, i average upper 30's every ride.

I'm sticking with 100 psi til the tires soften up a little [new] and it gets hotter.

I will drop 15 to 20 pounds in the next couple months easy, do it every summer.

Bout the time i get looking good this thing called winter comes along and screws everything up ...
I think you'll be ok at that preasure. Just try it out and see how it goes, check your wheels after your rides and just make sure they're true. Btw that damm winter thing is annoying, Lol! After all that dedication and hardwork, haha. I just moved down to FL from NJ this year, I'm pretty pumped that I can ride just about all year long now.

Last edited by echefanthony; 04-14-15 at 08:55 PM.
echefanthony is offline  
Old 04-14-15, 09:37 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Jarrett2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126

Bikes: Steel 1x's

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204
The S-WORKS TURBO is the fastest tire ive run, i average upper 30's every ride.
Wait... what?
Jarrett2 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 05:01 AM
  #11  
RR3
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
OP......one tip if you are going to run lower tire pressures, check your tire pressures before each ride. One of my tire pump guages runs a little higher than my hand held guage.....just not accurate. I run latex tubes because they are faster and less prone to flats but they require air every day so tire pressure is a 30 second routine before every ride for me. Even "normal" butyl tubes lose air and if you say have them at 90 psi and forget to pump them up before the next ride a few days later, you could be more susceptible to pinch flats. The last tip......raise out of the saddle when coming to a big bump. By putting your momentum upwards, less strain will be on the wheels or tires. I have bridge built in the 1800's on one route and it sits at the bottom of a hill like all good creeks. I can't say I jump.....just trying to lets me blast over it w/o harming wheels....similar on potholes. Lower pressures tend to be less flat prone due to punctures. If your frame fit 28's, the rolling resistence is lower than 25's in the real world and it might put you into the 40's... .....assume you meant that you ride 30 miles on a ride because nobody averages upper 30's in MPH or KPH on a solo ride of any distance. Just look at the times posted at the District TT championships.....lots of guys just average that......

I got my first flat in 9,000 miles last Sunday and I ride supple, fast tires. (It was time to replace the rear tire but lazily thought I could squeek thru another 200K but the glass strewn Jersey shore had more sinister plans for me)
RR3 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 05:28 AM
  #12  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
35 to 39 mph for top speeds is what i meant by upper 30's.

I may be 275 but im fast and powerful, women and light guys always catch me uphill but i blow them away on the downhill, its a vicious cycle.

I check pressure daily with a digital readout gauge.

Ive run Spesh Armadillos last 2 years which is full kevlar and never flatted, the TURBO has a kevlar belt [blackbelt protection] but not full kevlar for speed.

Im hoping i have no issues 60 miles out.

Last edited by CNC2204; 04-15-15 at 05:31 AM.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 05:54 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Jarrett2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126

Bikes: Steel 1x's

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
So you're saying that at 275 lbs on your 60+ mile rides, your average speed is somewhere between 35 to 39 mph?
Jarrett2 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 05:59 AM
  #14  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
"TOP" speed is what i just posted.

Average is usually 16.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 06:02 AM
  #15  
RR3
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,226
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204
"TOP" speed is what i just posted.

Average is usually 16.
16mph is pretty darned good especially if there are any climbs or red lights. You have some good power and if that extra weight comes off, I want to be on your wheel!!!.

I have a hard time averaging more than 15 mph but many of my rides have 80-100 feet climbing per mile and my "flat" ride has 45 feet per mile.
RR3 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 06:06 AM
  #16  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks ! Come to STL and we will ride.

I ride sundays with a Triathlete that picks the route, usually a combo of trails & open road.

He's good at putting the hurt on me.

I asked him to not tell me the route ahead of time so i won't want to do it.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 06:30 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Jarrett2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126

Bikes: Steel 1x's

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Ah gotcha, that sounds a lot like my rides. I'm hell on the downhills at 275 lbs

I run Gatorskin/GatorHardshell 25's on my Roubaix @ 120 psi and no problems in the last 1700 miles or so.

You said something was breaking. What's breaking?
Jarrett2 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 06:44 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
BigDB67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 92

Bikes: 2014 Novara Strada - 2013 Cannondale Quick 4 - 2015 Ghost Tacana 3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204

I may be 275 but im fast and powerful, women and light guys always catch me uphill but i blow them away on the downhill, its a vicious cycle.
I second that!

I ride with max pressure most times. Right I am 280ish and on my roadie i have 120 PSI. When it gets hotter it will dip close to 110 PSI.
BigDB67 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 06:52 AM
  #19  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Ah gotcha, that sounds a lot like my rides. I'm hell on the downhills at 275 lbs

I run Gatorskin/GatorHardshell 25's on my Roubaix @ 120 psi and no problems in the last 1700 miles or so.

You said something was breaking. What's breaking?
My TARMAC has been in the shop 3 times in 2 weeks.
Last week my rear wheel needed truing and last saturday i broke a spoke highballing it on the lumpy bumpy park trail because they were have a all wknd Marathon on the roads is ride around town.

My LBS is very cool does tuneups & tweaks free with purchase and didn't charge for the first spoke due to warranty.

I need to keep it under MACH 1 on those park trails which are fine at 11 mph but not 30.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 07:03 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Jarrett2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126

Bikes: Steel 1x's

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Are you running the stock wheels? If so, that's the problem. 24/28 spoke wheelsets are no good for our size.

Check this place out:

Excel Sports - Custom Wheel Builder

Here's an example set that I worked up using their online builder very similar to what I run on my Roubaix:

Front Wheel

DT Swiss 350 Front Hub 32 Hole$51.21
DT Swiss RR 440 Rim Black 32 Hole $87.21
DT Swiss Revolution 14/17 Gauge Spokes Black $43.20
DT Swiss 14g Alloy Silver $8.32
3 Cross
Labor $25.00
Sub Total $214.94
Less Discount -$18.99
Total $195.95
Total Weight 728g

Rear Wheel

DT Swiss 350 11 Speed Rear Hub 32 Hole Shimano$160.11
DT Swiss RR 440 Asymmetric Rim Black 32 Hole $87.21
DT Swiss Competition 14/15 Gauge Spokes Black $20.00
DT Swiss Competition 14/15 Gauge Spokes Black $20.00
DT Swiss 14g Brass $4.48
3 Cross
3 Cross
Labor $25.00
Sub Total $316.80
Less Discount -$29.18
Total $287.62
Total Weight 959g

Those would be solid for you and possibly lighter than the stock wheelset.

You can also spend more on lighter hubs and save some weight there.

The stock 24/28 spoke wheels on my Roubiax only lasted a few hundred miles before the recurring problems started.

Last edited by Jarrett2; 04-15-15 at 07:07 AM.
Jarrett2 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 07:47 AM
  #21  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Bro i'll check into that.

Just moved into a house and things are tight, lots of extra costs popping up here and there.

I raced AMA motorcycle events for years and one of the reasons i got out was repair costs.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 07:59 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Central PA
Posts: 4,843

Bikes: 2016 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross v5, 2015 Ritchey Road Logic, 1998 Specialized Rockhopper, 2017 Raleigh Grand Prix

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 374 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times in 11 Posts
I run 100 psi on my 25mm Gatorskins @ 250lbs, just because, and they seem comfortable and smooth. I guess the max is 120 PSI for that tire, perhaps I should just try a little higher PSI?
dr_lha is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 08:24 AM
  #23  
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,437

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6257 Post(s)
Liked 4,280 Times in 2,398 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204
My TARMAC has been in the shop 3 times in 2 weeks.
Last week my rear wheel needed truing and last saturday i broke a spoke highballing it on the lumpy bumpy park trail because they were have a all wknd Marathon on the roads is ride around town.
There is little that can "break" due to the pressure of air in the tires. You might break the tire or tube if the pressure is too high or you might damage a rim (not really "break") and "break" the tube (pinch flat) if the pressure is too low. But there is little else on the bike that will be influenced by the tire pressure.

Since you are popping spokes and if you are breaking other parts...seatposts, handlebars, frames, wheels, etc...you should consider how you ride. Don't just slam the bike into every pothole and crack on the road. Post over them by lifting and supporting your body with your legs. Allow your legs and arms to absorb the impact and the bike to move upward away from the impact. It saves wear and tear on the bike.

You may also want to consider stronger wheels. Those are low spoke count wheels which puts a lot of stress on a few spokes. Stronger wheels, by the way, aren't necessarily heavier nor does it mean a wider heavier rim. I use a 32 hole wheel on my fast bike with 2.3/1.8/2.0 Pillar spokes, T-11 White Industry hubs and Velocity A23 rims. They weigh 2 lbs less per set than the low spoke count wheels I had originally and they are much stronger.

Wheel strength, by the way, does not come from the rim. Use any rim you like but if you want strong wheels build with the 2.3mm head spokes. They are about 50% stronger than 2.0 mm spokes with very little weight penalty.

As I've said many times on these forums, mountain biking teaches you how to do this and why it is needed in the first day of riding off-road. It takes a lot longer to figure it out on a road bike.

Originally Posted by ChrisZog
I've always heard that us clydes are better off riding at the max pressure for the tires.
There are far too many factors to make such a broad statement. Heavily weight bikes risk blowout from over pressure if the tires are at the max or above. Generally, as long as you aren't pinch flatting, your pressure is probably high enough.

Originally Posted by RR3
How will lower pressure do damage to a wheel? Unless it is so low that you get pinch flats, I don''t buy it.
Low pressures certainly can result in wheel damage for the reasons that echefanthony pointed out. I see lots of "blipped" rims due to low pressure.

What I don't get is how high pressures can "break things" on a bike.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!




Last edited by cyccommute; 04-15-15 at 08:33 AM.
cyccommute is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 08:30 AM
  #24  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 790
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cyccommute
By "breaking things" what do you mean? Breaking what? There is little that can "break" due to the pressure of air in the tires. You might break the tire or tube if the pressure is too high or you might damage a rim (not really "break") and "break" the tube (pinch flat) if the pressure is too low. But there is little else on the bike that will be influenced by the tire pressure.

If you are breaking other parts...seatposts, handlebars, frames, wheels, etc...you should consider how you ride. Don't just slam the bike into every pothole and crack on the road. Post over them by lifting and supporting your body with your legs. Allow your legs and arms to absorb the impact and the bike to move upward away from the impact. It saves wear and tear on the bike. As I've said many times on these forums, mountain biking teaches you how to do this and why it is needed in the first day of riding off-road. It takes a lot longer to figure it out on a road bike.



There are far too many factors to make such a broad statement. Heavily weight bikes risk blowout from over pressure if the tires are at the max or above. Generally, as long as you aren't pinch flatting, your pressure is probably high enough.



Low pressures certainly can result in wheel damage for the reasons that echefanthony pointed out. I see lots of "blipped" rims due to low pressure.

What I don't get is how high pressures can "break things" on a bike.
I broke a rear spoke last Saturday commuting on a trail. 1500 miles on the TARMAC since last Sept and $4K later i shouldn't be "breaking" anything.

Tires were too hard and going too fast likely.

Me breaking things is nothing new, i grew up in the "Husky" section.

By 9th grade i was 200 pounds and wore mens clothes.
CNC2204 is offline  
Old 04-15-15, 08:37 AM
  #25  
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,437

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6257 Post(s)
Liked 4,280 Times in 2,398 Posts
Originally Posted by CNC2204
I broke a rear spoke last Saturday commuting on a trail. 1500 miles on the TARMAC since last Sept and $4K later i shouldn't be "breaking" anything.

Tires were too hard and going too fast likely.

Me breaking things is nothing new, i grew up in the "Husky" section.

By 9th grade i was 200 pounds and wore mens clothes.
I edited my post while you were posting.

No, you aren't breaking spokes because the tires are too hard. You are asking too much of the wheels and/or you need to work on your technique. Try to ride lighter in the saddle. I'm not a little guy nor am I weak but I do ride lighter in the saddle than most little guys I ride with.

It's unrelated to the tires and their air pressure.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!



cyccommute is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.