What's a Clyde worthy SRAM groupset?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126
Bikes: Steel 1x's
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
What's a Clyde worthy SRAM groupset?
So with Shimano, I've heard that Clydes shouldn't go Dura Ace as the lighter parts might not fare well under Clyde weights. And that Ultegra is the top of the Shimano mountain for Clydes.
Is the same true of SRAM? Should Clydes not go Red? Stick with Force?
Is the same true of SRAM? Should Clydes not go Red? Stick with Force?
#2
SuperGimp
I fail to see how the cyclist's weight has any bearing on the componentry.
I have Red on my main ride, personally. Works great.
I have Red on my main ride, personally. Works great.
#4
Runaway Breadtruck
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Merrimack, nh
Posts: 279
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8, Giant Defy Advanced 2, TT Cruiser, GT Zaskar, Diggler scooter
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I think its more about how much power you can apply through the component. Years ago when I was mtn biking a lot I was putting in the top-o-the-line bottom brackets, and I kept breaking them. When I dropped down a level or two they used heavier, and stronger parts, so I stopped breaking them.
these days that may no longer be true, and some components like a derailleur should not see a force load anyway, so for those it shouldn't matter.
these days that may no longer be true, and some components like a derailleur should not see a force load anyway, so for those it shouldn't matter.
Last edited by Haff; 06-15-15 at 02:54 PM. Reason: bad grammah
#5
SuperGimp
I've been as high as 245 and as low as 211 and I think I have about 8,000 miles on some of the components (shifters, brakes). I've replaced the crank twice and both derailleurs but not for performance reasons. Went from a standard to a compact to a power meter crank, and the FD needed swapping when I got a braze on frame, and I got the wifli RD to tackle some particularly ornery hills near me. I still have the older parts - they're perfectly functional.
One thing I'd steer clear of is the supposed top of the line BB - ceramic bearings in a BB are a complete waste of time, and SRAM says you need to clean them every couple hundred miles. Um, no thanks.
One thing I'd steer clear of is the supposed top of the line BB - ceramic bearings in a BB are a complete waste of time, and SRAM says you need to clean them every couple hundred miles. Um, no thanks.
#6
Senior Member
DA9000/DA9070 on three different bikes, well over 6000 miles and I was north of 295 for about 1/3 of that. Zero issues.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 341
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac SL6 | Litespeed Ultimate Disc | Chumba Terlingua, Stella
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have Rival22 on my cross bike, and Force22 on my road bike. Both are great groupsets, and I haven't had any issues with either.
#8
got the climbing bug
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,204
Bikes: one for everything
Mentioned: 81 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Liked 908 Times
in
273 Posts
Force on my CX and mixed Force/red for the roadie. A bit easier to replace if gravity doesn't like me, or someone else....
__________________
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,690
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD9-4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Apex and Rival are both great group sets at the lower price levels. Not "low price" really, but you'll find them
in sub-$2000 bikes...
in sub-$2000 bikes...
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,126
Bikes: Steel 1x's
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Cool, thanks for the info. I recently got a used bike that had 5-year old Rival/Force setup and I dig it. When I replace those components, I intend to go SRAM. Just wasn't sure if Force or Red.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,062
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18320 Post(s)
Liked 15,299 Times
in
7,231 Posts
Maybe the alleged wireless electronic shifting SRAM will be out by then.
After many years of riding SRAM I recently switched back to Shimano (DA 9000). It took me about 5-6 rides to completely retrain my brain to use the DA shifters properly. I kept trying to use the inside lever to shift both up and down. Didn't work so well. I am starting a tour tomorrow on my LHT. When I return home and jump on the road bike for the first time I will probably reach down for the non-existent bar end shifters.
After many years of riding SRAM I recently switched back to Shimano (DA 9000). It took me about 5-6 rides to completely retrain my brain to use the DA shifters properly. I kept trying to use the inside lever to shift both up and down. Didn't work so well. I am starting a tour tomorrow on my LHT. When I return home and jump on the road bike for the first time I will probably reach down for the non-existent bar end shifters.
#12
SuperGimp
After many years of riding SRAM I recently switched back to Shimano (DA 9000). It took me about 5-6 rides to completely retrain my brain to use the DA shifters properly. I kept trying to use the inside lever to shift both up and down. Didn't work so well. I am starting a tour tomorrow on my LHT. When I return home and jump on the road bike for the first time I will probably reach down for the non-existent bar end shifters.
Oh, and I really enjoy being able to shift while braking. I guess I do that a lot more than I thought.