Got my bike, started riding
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Got my bike, started riding
So, I posted a few weeks back, thought I'd stop in again. I bought my bike, not really my first bike, but my first bike in a decade or two.
Here she is:
Started out easy, a few 3-5 mile rides. Easing up to more difficult rides. This week I've been doing a 6.5 mile route around the town I live in. It's got some small hills, nothing that big, ranges from about 230 elevation up to about 325. No real flat stretches though. Last week I started doing that ride in about 47-48 minutes, yesterday I clocked it at 38.02. Gaining both confidence and endurance.
Here she is:
Started out easy, a few 3-5 mile rides. Easing up to more difficult rides. This week I've been doing a 6.5 mile route around the town I live in. It's got some small hills, nothing that big, ranges from about 230 elevation up to about 325. No real flat stretches though. Last week I started doing that ride in about 47-48 minutes, yesterday I clocked it at 38.02. Gaining both confidence and endurance.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Very N and Very W Ohio Williams Co.
Posts: 2,458
Bikes: 2001 Trek Multitrack 7200, 2104 Fuji Sportif 1.5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Looks good , before long you will need a second water bottle cage :-)
#8
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The bike shop should of told you this and you probably already know but just a tips to keep you happy with your bike:
- the cables will stretch a little as they breakin over the next couple hundred miles and the shifter/derailer and brakes will need adjustment; you now it is time when they don't seem to work as well on your practically new bike (jumping shifting, Mia shifts, etc)
- keep the seat post up so you leg is almost fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke; a lot of new riders (including me then) like to drop the seat so they can put their feet down when they stop. Doing that is hard on your knees and creates a lot more work riding; it's like trying to walk up a flight of stairs while squating. Just use the pedal to step up and step down from the seat.
- high pressure tire loses pressure rapidly. If your tires are near 100 psi they will drop to 80 in a couple weeks; a lot of energy is wasted ( to friction) running low tire pressure, and you risk a pinch flat. So pump them up every two or three weeks.
-spinning faster with less load is easier on your knees
-try to maintain a relative straight chainline; your drivetrain will last longer and work better. Use the little gear in front with big gears in back, middle gear in front with middle gears in back, and big gear in front with little gears in back.
- padded bike shorts are real good
- bike shoes make a huge increase in performance once you get use to them; I can do about double the distance with them vs without, and lower gearing is less needed.
- bike lights and reflective vest/windbreaker if riding at dawn/dusk/night.
- riding with friends makes the time fly by (most of the time)
(Sorry if you already know all this and think I suck )
edit: wrote 50 psi, intended to write 80 psi, corrected to show 80psi
- the cables will stretch a little as they breakin over the next couple hundred miles and the shifter/derailer and brakes will need adjustment; you now it is time when they don't seem to work as well on your practically new bike (jumping shifting, Mia shifts, etc)
- keep the seat post up so you leg is almost fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke; a lot of new riders (including me then) like to drop the seat so they can put their feet down when they stop. Doing that is hard on your knees and creates a lot more work riding; it's like trying to walk up a flight of stairs while squating. Just use the pedal to step up and step down from the seat.
- high pressure tire loses pressure rapidly. If your tires are near 100 psi they will drop to 80 in a couple weeks; a lot of energy is wasted ( to friction) running low tire pressure, and you risk a pinch flat. So pump them up every two or three weeks.
-spinning faster with less load is easier on your knees
-try to maintain a relative straight chainline; your drivetrain will last longer and work better. Use the little gear in front with big gears in back, middle gear in front with middle gears in back, and big gear in front with little gears in back.
- padded bike shorts are real good
- bike shoes make a huge increase in performance once you get use to them; I can do about double the distance with them vs without, and lower gearing is less needed.
- bike lights and reflective vest/windbreaker if riding at dawn/dusk/night.
- riding with friends makes the time fly by (most of the time)
(Sorry if you already know all this and think I suck )
edit: wrote 50 psi, intended to write 80 psi, corrected to show 80psi
Last edited by Thattalldude; 06-11-15 at 04:25 PM.
#10
SuperGimp
It certainly gives you more leeway if you forget one day. Nobody likes pinch flats!
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cabot, Arkansas
Posts: 1,538
Bikes: Lynskey Twisted Helix Di2 Ti, 1987 Orbea steel single speed/fixie, Orbea Avant M30, Trek Fuel EX9.8 29, Trek Madone 5 series, Specialized Epic Carbon Comp 29er, Trek 7.1F
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Great Job !!
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Very N and Very W Ohio Williams Co.
Posts: 2,458
Bikes: 2001 Trek Multitrack 7200, 2104 Fuji Sportif 1.5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I do the "thumb check" every day, and pump on alternate days with 700x25, usually down about 5psi.
Treat any atypical out of the ordinary pressure drop as a "flat" and IMHO do not leave the house without looking for why the pressure was lost :-).
Treat any atypical out of the ordinary pressure drop as a "flat" and IMHO do not leave the house without looking for why the pressure was lost :-).
#13
Just Plain Slow
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 6,026
Bikes: Lynskey R230
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 297 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Congrats on the new bike...and getting out there and gettin' it done!
My wife has a Cannondale Quick with those same wheels. I have to say, I was very concerned about the side-by-side spoke design. There is very little metal between the spokes, however, it's been a few years and we've had no problems. I would take a close look from time to time, but so far, we give that bike a resounding
My wife has a Cannondale Quick with those same wheels. I have to say, I was very concerned about the side-by-side spoke design. There is very little metal between the spokes, however, it's been a few years and we've had no problems. I would take a close look from time to time, but so far, we give that bike a resounding
#14
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I run standard tubes with 28mm conti 4 seasons at 110psi and it takes about 2 or 3 weeks to get down to 90psi. I pump at least once a week. Standard tubes have much better pressure retention & flat protection, cheaper, only very few additional grams, although it's the worst place to have more weight. Main reason I don't run thin tubes is all the pumping they require...
So yeah if you are running ultra light (super thin) tubes you need to pump up way more often just like you're saying.
150 lbs guys in my office running 32s at 80psi only pump them up every 2 or 3 months; I am alway harping on them to pump them up; no pinch flats in years of weekly rides, but they only ride on paved bike trails..
So I guess would change my comment to: "pump them every 2 or 3 weeks at minimum, and more often would be a lot better"
All new riders I encounter hate all the pumping and think it should be like cars and needed only every few months... So was just suggesting the minimum he could get away with...
#15
SuperGimp
They probably hate pumping because they have awful pumps. I have an el-cheapo pump and it's 3-4 strokes and I'm back up over 100 psi on 25mm tires. What's to hate?
#16
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I guess it's because they're squeesing in a ride on their lunch break, and want to just grab the bike and take off... A lot folks aren't into all the minor adjustments and monitoring most bikes require... We're the weirdos that like it
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 866
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Welcome to the obsession!!
As for pumping, for me, it is just a part of my regular check up routine before I go out riding. I double check the brakes, tire pressure, lights and tail lights are installed and working(ride at 4:30 - 5 AM), Put on reflective bits, check helmet, put on eyeglasses and setup Take A Look rear view mirror, etc.
Pumping daily only take a second or two and only needs a pump or two to get it back to my desired pressure. If I feel I don't need to, I have a Topeak digital gauge that I verify they are at least OK. When I am lazy, it is just easier to check with the gauge on the pump since I usually need a little.
Form a routine before you go. You never know if that little checkup could save you injury or worse. I once caught that I forgot to reengage the brake lever and the brakes were still out wide for when I changed tires. I would have had little to no front braking ability. Another time, for some reason, I found the brake off center and needed adjustment.
As for pumping, for me, it is just a part of my regular check up routine before I go out riding. I double check the brakes, tire pressure, lights and tail lights are installed and working(ride at 4:30 - 5 AM), Put on reflective bits, check helmet, put on eyeglasses and setup Take A Look rear view mirror, etc.
Pumping daily only take a second or two and only needs a pump or two to get it back to my desired pressure. If I feel I don't need to, I have a Topeak digital gauge that I verify they are at least OK. When I am lazy, it is just easier to check with the gauge on the pump since I usually need a little.
Form a routine before you go. You never know if that little checkup could save you injury or worse. I once caught that I forgot to reengage the brake lever and the brakes were still out wide for when I changed tires. I would have had little to no front braking ability. Another time, for some reason, I found the brake off center and needed adjustment.
#18
got the climbing bug
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,204
Bikes: one for everything
Mentioned: 82 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Liked 908 Times
in
273 Posts
actually super thin tubes made from latex don't need much pumping at all, these are also found in tubular tires. Expensive but if you want to be lazy and not pump every ride, they are the way to go.
I pump every ride, few PSI plus or minus makes a HUGE difference in ride quality and bike handling. I need to trust my tires when decending at speeds.....
I pump every ride, few PSI plus or minus makes a HUGE difference in ride quality and bike handling. I need to trust my tires when decending at speeds.....
__________________
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
Rule #10 // It never gets easier, you just go faster.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Very N and Very W Ohio Williams Co.
Posts: 2,458
Bikes: 2001 Trek Multitrack 7200, 2104 Fuji Sportif 1.5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
actually super thin tubes made from latex don't need much pumping at all, these are also found in tubular tires. Expensive but if you want to be lazy and not pump every ride, they are the way to go.
I pump every ride, few PSI plus or minus makes a HUGE difference in ride quality and bike handling. I need to trust my tires when decending at speeds.....
I pump every ride, few PSI plus or minus makes a HUGE difference in ride quality and bike handling. I need to trust my tires when decending at speeds.....
#20
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah, looks like he got that backwards:
"..The only downside is that latex tubes are more porous than their black butyl counterparts. You'll need to air them up before every ride and if they sit a week or more, they'll appear totally flat. But all serious racers check their pressures before each ride anyway, right? Vittoria Latex Presta Tubes are available with a 51m..."
"..The only downside is that latex tubes are more porous than their black butyl counterparts. You'll need to air them up before every ride and if they sit a week or more, they'll appear totally flat. But all serious racers check their pressures before each ride anyway, right? Vittoria Latex Presta Tubes are available with a 51m..."
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Very N and Very W Ohio Williams Co.
Posts: 2,458
Bikes: 2001 Trek Multitrack 7200, 2104 Fuji Sportif 1.5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
They could make an external pressure gauge, a calibrated "thumb check", it is so simple an idea I'm sure somebody already did. It would only really give you a plus or minus reading from a zero point. I have thought about cooking one up, might be that a device used to measure rubber durometer would work :-). An active system that works via ANT or Bluetooth is probably not far off either, that might be nice :-).
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,114
Bikes: 2006 Raleigh Cadent 2.0, 2016 Trek Emonda ALR 6, 2015 Propel Advanced SL 2, 2000 K2 Zed SE
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 115 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah, looks like he got that backwards:
"..The only downside is that latex tubes are more porous than their black butyl counterparts. You'll need to air them up before every ride and if they sit a week or more, they'll appear totally flat. But all serious racers check their pressures before each ride anyway, right? Vittoria Latex Presta Tubes are available with a 51m..."
"..The only downside is that latex tubes are more porous than their black butyl counterparts. You'll need to air them up before every ride and if they sit a week or more, they'll appear totally flat. But all serious racers check their pressures before each ride anyway, right? Vittoria Latex Presta Tubes are available with a 51m..."
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,892
Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.3 C - 2014
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My tire pressure calculator says that for my weight (~250#), the front tire should be at 80 psi, and the rear tire should be at 125 psi. Since my the max PSI on my tires is 100 PSI, I put it at about 85/105 psi. Also, because I know that a little air escapes when I take the pump valve on the presta valves.
GH
#24
"Fred"--is that bad?
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 214 Represent!
Posts: 512
Bikes: Felt f85 (11); Trek 7.3 FX (07); Schwinn Super Sport (86); Specialized Rockhopper (87)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I like the looks of the black/red/white. I had a Trek road bike that had a red/black/silver color scheme. I always thought it was just about the ugliest bike I had ever seen. I finally traded it off for my Schwinn. (Which just happens to be one of the best looking bikes I have ever seen--it worked out well in the end.) I would have kept the Trek if it looked as good as yours.
To piggyback on what Thattalldude said, you should start watching YouTube videos and/or reading instructions on how to do basic maintenance yourself. At a minimum you need to be able to change a flat, and have the supplies to do so. (It might be a good idea to try taking your tube out and putting it back in while you are at home, just so you are sure of how to do it 'in the wild'.) You should probably be able to adjust your brakes and derailleurs, and clean/lubricate your chain. There are a TON of really good YouTube videos on how to do all this stuff. Watch a couple and you should be good to go.
To piggyback on what Thattalldude said, you should start watching YouTube videos and/or reading instructions on how to do basic maintenance yourself. At a minimum you need to be able to change a flat, and have the supplies to do so. (It might be a good idea to try taking your tube out and putting it back in while you are at home, just so you are sure of how to do it 'in the wild'.) You should probably be able to adjust your brakes and derailleurs, and clean/lubricate your chain. There are a TON of really good YouTube videos on how to do all this stuff. Watch a couple and you should be good to go.
Last edited by DTSCDS; 06-12-15 at 02:58 PM.