qandaappraisals

I'm currently on a 2013 Fuji Touring with stock wheels. I only ride on roads, I weigh about 330 and even though my wheels are 36 hole my rear wheel keeps going out of true. I want to upgrade my wheels and recommendations so far are:

Mavic A719 36 hole on Shimano T670 hub
Velocity Dyad 36 hole on Shimano T670 hub

I've read some reviews that suggest maybe Mavic may not have the quality it once did as the reports of cracked rims are on the rise but this is only from two sources, both on the web.

I'd sure like to hear from other riders who have upgraded as to what they are riding on and what their experiences have been.

Thanks

TrojanHorse

Velocity Deep V or the kinlin equivalent seem to be well thought of for people in your general weight category, but they're a little on the narrow side if you want to run large tires. The chukker rim looks like you could put it on a Hummvee and drive off a cliff.

andr0id

Velocity used to have a bit of uneveness at the rim joint, but since they've move to Florida, I've gotten a few top notch rims from them.

Go with that Dyad, but put in a few more bucks and lace them up on 105 hubs.

Run a 700x25 or larger tire on them. It will ride nice since they are 24mm wide rims.

Unless you ABSOLUTELY know that your local shop excels at building wheels, get them from a reputable online site.

I've had really good experiences with Wheelbuilder.com. I build a lot of my own wheels, but They did my PowerTap for me and it has been rock solid and needed not tweaks for over a year now.

Tell them how much you weigh and they will use the right spokes, don't try to second guess them.

qandaappraisals

Thanks, I'll check out he Chukkers too.

qandaappraisals

One other question. I'm not having any trouble with my front wheel. Does it make sense to only change out the rear or will a new wheel be such an improvement I'll wish I had done the front at the same time?

TrojanHorse

It depends on whether you like being all matchy matchy. I'd say yes, these wheels aren't that expensive and they probably will be a nice improvement.

qandaappraisals

Thanks, I'll check out wheelbuilder.com I was looking at an ebay seller in Colordado who has some pretty good reviews. Also, prowheelbuilder.com but the amount of options was a little overwhelming. I'll probably contact them directly to get their opinions on the build.

andr0id

At 330, the wider 700x25 or 700x28 tires (if they'll fit your frame) will server you better. They will mount better on a wider rim.

So it depends what you got. A lot of stock rims are 20mm wide, so it's not a bad idea to get a front too if you can afford it.

qandaappraisals

I'm riding on 32C's right now and like the ride so I'll probably stick with them

sstorkel

Define "better". I've never had a single problem mounting 25mm or 28mm tires to a standard 19mm-wide rim...

andr0id

Wide tires will balloon out more with a narrow rim. (Think top half of an hour glass shape) That makes them less stable in turns when the wheel is not vertical to the pavement. A wider rim lets the Bead seat width be wider and the tire becomes more stable.

You might not notice it. For heavier people it can make the turns squirrely.

dr_lha

Seconded. I ran 700x32s Vittoria Randonneur Pros on 19mm Deep-Vs. No problems.

Yendor72

Dyads and 105 hubs on my bike right now. About 1300 miles since they were built and I love them. I had my built by Tom at GVH Bikes in Hood River, OR. I did both wheels and the price was right.

Bill Kapaun

Have you tried getting the spokes PROPERLY tensioned on your current wheel?
I'm 98% sure that would fix the problem, assuming your spokes haven't started pulling through the rim.

qandaappraisals

Thanks, good to know.

qandaappraisals

My LBS guy does it by feel, so I guess maybe I should find someone with an instrument that measures tension?

qandaappraisals

Here is a build that prowheelbuilder.com sent over to me. $720 for front and back - just about what I paid for the bike last year. But, these do seem to be pretty bullet proof. Does this seem like overkill to anyone? I can do Velocity Dyad or Mavic A719 wheels machine built for around $250 for a set or $400-$450 hand built.

• FRONT WHEEL SUMMARY
  
• [h=6]Drillings[/h]32
• [h=6]Rim[/h]KINLIN XC279 FRONT 700C BLACK RIM $67.00
  700c / 29er
  Velox for 1 wheel + $4.00
• [h=6]Hub[/h]WHITE INDUSTRIES MI5 RACER BLACK FRONT HUB $140.00
  QR 100mm
  *No Bearing Upgrade
  *No Skewer
• [h=6]Spokes[/h]SAPIM LEADER J BEND BLACK SPOKES $1.05
• [h=6]Lacing Pattern[/h]Three Cross
• [h=6]Nipples[/h]SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK BRASS NIPPLE $0.15
• [h=6]Weight[/h]850.76 grams
• [h=6]Price[/h]$249.24

• REAR WHEEL SUMMARY
  
• [h=6]Drillings[/h]36
• [h=6]Rim[/h]KINLIN XC279 REAR 700C BLACK RIM $67.00
  700c / 29er
  Velox for 1 wheel + $4.00
• [h=6]Hub[/h]WHITE INDUSTRIES MI5 RACER BLACK REAR HUB $285.00
  *QR 130mm Road/Cross
  Ti Shimano/SRAM 8,9,10 or 11spd + $40.00
  *No Bearing Upgrade
  *No Skewer
• [h=6]Spokes[/h]SAPIM STRONG J BEND BLACK SPOKES 2 x 2.3 $1.92
• [h=6]Lacing Pattern[/h]Four Cross
• [h=6]Nipples[/h]SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE BLACK BRASS NIPPLE $0.15
• [h=6]Weight[/h]1053.08 grams
• [h=6]Price[/h]$470.52

Bill Kapaun

What ever method your mechanic uses isn't the point as much as your "current" mechanic isn't doing the job properly.
You need someone else to do it.

bassjones

Dyad. Period.

andr0id

I would say that machine built is what got you where you are today.

Get hand built and discuss your situation with the builder.

Yendor72

And this is the thread I had about it. Yes, it was $374 for both wheels built and delivered.
https://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdale...-wheelset.html

dr_lha

You're paying extra for extremely fancy hubs there.

bassjones

Agreed he is and that's what I have on my race bike. Not sure I'd put those hubs on a touring rig. Not that they're not tough enough. More that I doubt you'd gain any real advantage from those hubs in that application when 105 or Ultegra hubs will do the same job. I LOVE them on my CAAD9 though

qandaappraisals

I agree these hubs add a lot to the overall price. I haven't had time to research them but I thought they were spec'd because of their durability. If Ultegra's will do the job that will save me a bunch. I'll check with the builder and see what the reasoning is.

sstorkel

Stable and harsh, much like low-profile tires on a sports car. Except that your bike doesn't have any suspension to help absorb the bumps...