New Clyde and New Bike Soon
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New Clyde and New Bike Soon
Hey everyone, first post. I've been lurking for a few weeks.
SO, I am close to purchasing a new bike. I'm currently 6'3 320 lbs., and am looking to lose weight by cycling (along with the diet changes I've made in the past 2 months). For the bike, I'll most likely be going with the well-known Trek 7.2 FX. I'm trying to keep the budget at no more than $550, not including accessories and changing out equipment. I've had two 7.2's in the past, but shamefully did not ride either very often. Since I'm familiar with them though, I think it's a good place to start when I go in for test riding soon. I was considering the Fuji Absolute 3.0 because it's on sale at Performance Bike, but I can't seem to find much info on it online (anyone?).
I know tires are the main concern with Clydesdale/Athena riders, rather than the frame, so I've been looking a little into replacing the stock rims with something more durable...but...I guess that will have to wait until I actually get into the LBS!
Oh and as far as terrain, I'll be riding mostly on flat suburban roads with bike lanes and paved bike trails.
SO, I am close to purchasing a new bike. I'm currently 6'3 320 lbs., and am looking to lose weight by cycling (along with the diet changes I've made in the past 2 months). For the bike, I'll most likely be going with the well-known Trek 7.2 FX. I'm trying to keep the budget at no more than $550, not including accessories and changing out equipment. I've had two 7.2's in the past, but shamefully did not ride either very often. Since I'm familiar with them though, I think it's a good place to start when I go in for test riding soon. I was considering the Fuji Absolute 3.0 because it's on sale at Performance Bike, but I can't seem to find much info on it online (anyone?).
I know tires are the main concern with Clydesdale/Athena riders, rather than the frame, so I've been looking a little into replacing the stock rims with something more durable...but...I guess that will have to wait until I actually get into the LBS!
Oh and as far as terrain, I'll be riding mostly on flat suburban roads with bike lanes and paved bike trails.
#2
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Welcome,
If the local bike shop has a bike you like, that definitely is the better route. Me personally, I would start out buying lights and and a mirror and see how well the stock tires held up. Hope to be hearing soon about your maiden voyage.
If the local bike shop has a bike you like, that definitely is the better route. Me personally, I would start out buying lights and and a mirror and see how well the stock tires held up. Hope to be hearing soon about your maiden voyage.
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Congrats on starting the new diet changes, that's where real weight loss occurs.
Riding a bike helps minimally with that as well, but mostly helps with health and fitness.
If you are thinking you will be losing a lot of weight, you might want to buy the first bike at some place like Performance Bike or REI where you have a year to return it. That way if you lose a lot of weight and get the itch for a new, maybe road bike (which happens a lot) you can always get your money back out of the first bike.
Riding a bike helps minimally with that as well, but mostly helps with health and fitness.
If you are thinking you will be losing a lot of weight, you might want to buy the first bike at some place like Performance Bike or REI where you have a year to return it. That way if you lose a lot of weight and get the itch for a new, maybe road bike (which happens a lot) you can always get your money back out of the first bike.
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At 6'3", you probably need to go with the largest sized hybrid Trek makes. Make sure you buy a frame large enough to fit your frame.
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If you don't want the bike anymore, sell it on Craigs List, or donate it, or something a responsible person would do.
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That does seem like taking advantage. I once knew a guy who bragged about doing stuff like this with clothing, using generous return policies to "buy" himself new jackets, pants, shoes, and sweaters every year by returning items he had already worn.
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Patagonia changed it's policies as well regarding refunds for worn merchandise.
We end up all paying cash or otherwise, for the abuses of a few.
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I do get a kick out of you trying to shame people and suggest they are wholly irresponsible people for using a store's written policy

Here they are for you to review:
REI Help Center - 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed
We stand behind everything we sell. If you are not satisfied with your REI purchase, you can return it for a replacement or refund. Items must be returned within a year of purchase.
Exchanges / Returns - Performance Bike
We stand behind every product we sell. If an item does not meet your expectations, simply return it. We guarantee your money back for a full year.
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Absolutely. Most everyone knows that adults getting back into riding bikes generally have no clue what kind of bike they need and what they will actually do with it. So buying one without a return policy is literally a crap shoot. Some good local bike shops offer a 30 day return policy, some 45 days. REI and Performance Bike took it one step further and increased the reason to buy there. If you don't feel right about using a policy that these companies decided to enact for their customers, then don't. But others will and absolutely should if they feel like doing so.
I do get a kick out of you trying to shame people and suggest they are wholly irresponsible people for using a store's written policy
Here they are for you to review:
REI Help Center - 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed
We stand behind everything we sell. If you are not satisfied with your REI purchase, you can return it for a replacement or refund. Items must be returned within a year of purchase.
Exchanges / Returns - Performance Bike
We stand behind every product we sell. If an item does not meet your expectations, simply return it. We guarantee your money back for a full year.
I do get a kick out of you trying to shame people and suggest they are wholly irresponsible people for using a store's written policy

Here they are for you to review:
REI Help Center - 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed
We stand behind everything we sell. If you are not satisfied with your REI purchase, you can return it for a replacement or refund. Items must be returned within a year of purchase.
Exchanges / Returns - Performance Bike
We stand behind every product we sell. If an item does not meet your expectations, simply return it. We guarantee your money back for a full year.
How is using a bike for just under a year (presumably one that meets the rider's expectations up until the point where he or she decided it was time for an upgrade), then returning it for a refund a day, or a week before the 1 year anniversary of the purchase not taking advantage? The OP presumably is getting exactly what he purchased and if he does what you propose, is taking advantage of a generous return policy to subsidize an upgrade.
I have a friend who had a problem with a bike he bought at a LBS whose situation might apply and this is it. This guy isn't much of a cyclist, and doesn't know much about bikes. The bike in question is a Fuji hybrid, purchased some years ago at a LBS. Either because of a manufacturing defect, or damage during assembly, his front shifting was never quite right. During months after the purchase, he brought it back to the LBS and they never really addressed the problem. Then he put the bike away over the winter and forgot about it until the following spring, when the same problem cropped up. At this point, the original LBS said he had used up all his free adjustments and wanted to charge him. Frustrated, he took the bike to another bike shop, who told him one of his chainrings was damaged, and that was the cause of the problem. And they replaced the chainring and fixed the problem.
Now, this fellow was within his rights to ask for a replacement because the bike never met his expectations from the LBS that sold him the bike.
Last edited by MRT2; 11-29-15 at 12:15 PM.
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How is using a bike for just under a year (presumably one that meets the rider's expectations up until the point where he or she decided it was time for an upgrade), then returning it for a refund a day, or a week before the 1 year anniversary of the purchase not taking advantage.
And I guess it depends on what definition you are referring to when saying taking advantage. If you mean to make use of, then yes. If you mean to cheat in some way, then no.
Using a written policy within its limits is not cheating. Either you choose to use it as it is written or your choose not to.
If you altered the date on your receipt and kept it longer than a year and then returned it, then you would be cheating the policy.
It sounds as if you are not happy with REI and Performance Bike's return policy and that would be something you should take up with them, not their customers.
Last edited by Jarrett2; 11-29-15 at 12:25 PM.
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While no one in this thread suggested using it in that way, that still falls within the policy. If you are not satisfied or it didn't meet your expectations within one year, then the option to return it is there. Whether that's one day after purchase or 364.
And I guess it depends on what definition you are referring to when saying taking advantage. If you mean to make use of, then yes. If you mean to cheat in some way, then no.
Using a written policy within its limits is not cheating. Either you choose to use it as it is written or your choose not to.
If you altered the date on your receipt and kept it longer than a year and then returned it, then you would be cheating the policy.
It sounds as if you are not happy with REI and Performance Bike's return policy and that would be something you should take up with them, not their customers.
And I guess it depends on what definition you are referring to when saying taking advantage. If you mean to make use of, then yes. If you mean to cheat in some way, then no.
Using a written policy within its limits is not cheating. Either you choose to use it as it is written or your choose not to.
If you altered the date on your receipt and kept it longer than a year and then returned it, then you would be cheating the policy.
It sounds as if you are not happy with REI and Performance Bike's return policy and that would be something you should take up with them, not their customers.
I would also ask if you think my other example, of a guy who basically bought himself a new wardrobe every year by taking advantage of generous return policies for several years in a row was taking advantage or just holding the store up to its word. My view is, what he did was not much better than stealing since the store is absorbing a loss and passing it onto their honest customers.
Last edited by MRT2; 11-29-15 at 12:32 PM.
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Let me make an analogy. Say you order a steak at a restaurant and it is overcooked. As a customer, you are within your rights to send it back. Now, if you eat the entire steak, save a morsel or two, is it taking advantage to send the steak back or worse, demanding a refund? I think most folks would say it is. Why? Because for the first 95% of your meal, it seemed to meet your expectations. Then suddenly, on the last bite it doesn't?
I don't want to keep derailing the OP's thread. I've stated my suggestion already. OP, good luck with the new bike hunt and weight loss goals. I hope it all goes well.
Last edited by Jarrett2; 11-29-15 at 12:39 PM.
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I will just say that if I buy a product, it is satisfactory in quality and purpose, and I use that product for a year then I must be satisfied with it. The fact that after 1 year I am tired of it, outgrow it, or just want something else is not a valid reason to return it claiming that the product does not meet my expectations. Some people are OK with that, but I would not do it as I feel that would just be wrong. I don't think I am alone in that thinking.
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Thanks, will let you all know how it goes. I imagine I will upgrade to a road bike in the future once I'm better suited to their weight limit, but we'll see, gotta get there first one pound at a time.
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An alternative that would be much more rugged is an X-large 90's era steel mountain bike with 26" wheels, if you're comfortable getting a used bike. You should be able to find a pretty decent one for $500.
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The Trek FX 7.2 is a great bike to start out with. In fact my wife still rides one that she bought almost 10 years ago and it's in great shape.
In my opinion, I think you are best off buying a bike from a local bike store when you are starting out. They can help make sure that you've at least got an approximate fit, and they can help with any repairs and adjustments as you go along.
I agree with some of the others that you should see if you can make a go with the stock wheels and maybe buy lights & fenders (if you get much rain where you live).
Best of luck, and keep us updated on your journey!
In my opinion, I think you are best off buying a bike from a local bike store when you are starting out. They can help make sure that you've at least got an approximate fit, and they can help with any repairs and adjustments as you go along.
I agree with some of the others that you should see if you can make a go with the stock wheels and maybe buy lights & fenders (if you get much rain where you live).
Best of luck, and keep us updated on your journey!
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I did end up selling each of them to make rent. I hope they wound up going to better homes than I provided, but I'm SERIOUS this time around!
Whatever I wind up with will be through a LBS here that has a good reputation!
Whatever I wind up with will be through a LBS here that has a good reputation!
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I am just wondering if maybe this wasn't the right bike for you, given that you already sold two of them. The right bike is the one that will get you excited to ride.
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I will definitely be trying others in the same price range, and I'm excited to start riding again in general, but I will go with whatever feels best! I did enjoy both FX's but I was not fitness oriented at all then (i.e. super lazy) and younger when I cared more about what a big guy on a bike looked like, so I just never rode either of them very often. I also only mashed the pedals and got exhausted over short distances, so while the short rides were enjoyable to that point, it would be a while before I came back for another round of punishment. Thankfully I know about spinning now!
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CircleofOne:
When I started again this May (first bicycle since my teenage years... back in the 90s), I grabbed a couple nicer, newer cycles (05 Trek 4300 and a 2012 Specialized Sirrus) off of craigslist. I have a decent amount of experience on vehicles, so figured I would not have a problem doing at least 80% of service and repairs on them. I have less in them and all accessories, gear, and tools than I would have in one of the bikes new. Just a thought.
I am 6'4", a hair under 300 pounds when I started. What really got me going pretty hardcore was commuting... I am fortunate enough to only be a little over 5 miles each way from work, and have a wonderful place that I can put my bike inside all day, and no one messes with it or even notices it.
What I have put the vast majority of miles this summer (around 800+) was the Sirrus. Very similar bike in price range, style, etc. All summer, with the stock 700x32's (the Trek you're looking at has 700x35s... even better), I used one spare tube, and broke a spoke once when I upped the pressure beyond my usual 60 PSI. The day the spoke broke, I bumped it to 80 before I left the house to try it out. I would say along with a spare, grab an extra spoke or two and a spoke wrench. Not that you cannot ride it with a broke spoke... I have heard you can, I just did not want to lose more.
Be easy on the equipment, and check out different tire pressures before you really get cruising. The 80PSI felt really rough right from the get go. If I had listen to my instinct, I never would have had the problem. Now I am down to about 270, (w/ diet and exercise) I haven't had a problem. I grabbed a backup/beater 97 GT Vantara to commute on (love the way steel rides, BTW), which has 700x40 tires on it, which I run at the same PSI (60), which offers a more supple ride.
Good luck on your decision. I hope you stick with it, and come to love riding as much as I have.
When I started again this May (first bicycle since my teenage years... back in the 90s), I grabbed a couple nicer, newer cycles (05 Trek 4300 and a 2012 Specialized Sirrus) off of craigslist. I have a decent amount of experience on vehicles, so figured I would not have a problem doing at least 80% of service and repairs on them. I have less in them and all accessories, gear, and tools than I would have in one of the bikes new. Just a thought.
I am 6'4", a hair under 300 pounds when I started. What really got me going pretty hardcore was commuting... I am fortunate enough to only be a little over 5 miles each way from work, and have a wonderful place that I can put my bike inside all day, and no one messes with it or even notices it.
What I have put the vast majority of miles this summer (around 800+) was the Sirrus. Very similar bike in price range, style, etc. All summer, with the stock 700x32's (the Trek you're looking at has 700x35s... even better), I used one spare tube, and broke a spoke once when I upped the pressure beyond my usual 60 PSI. The day the spoke broke, I bumped it to 80 before I left the house to try it out. I would say along with a spare, grab an extra spoke or two and a spoke wrench. Not that you cannot ride it with a broke spoke... I have heard you can, I just did not want to lose more.
Be easy on the equipment, and check out different tire pressures before you really get cruising. The 80PSI felt really rough right from the get go. If I had listen to my instinct, I never would have had the problem. Now I am down to about 270, (w/ diet and exercise) I haven't had a problem. I grabbed a backup/beater 97 GT Vantara to commute on (love the way steel rides, BTW), which has 700x40 tires on it, which I run at the same PSI (60), which offers a more supple ride.
Good luck on your decision. I hope you stick with it, and come to love riding as much as I have.
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Awesome, thanks for the tips DumbPartsGuy!
I noticed on my old Trek's the tires would ride a little flatly, but I had a Walmart pump that may not have had an accurate gauge. Will be picking up a decent one this time around so I can figure out what the best PSI is for me.
I noticed on my old Trek's the tires would ride a little flatly, but I had a Walmart pump that may not have had an accurate gauge. Will be picking up a decent one this time around so I can figure out what the best PSI is for me.
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Welcome to the gang, Co1!
There is a famous tire pressure chart that should help you out. But if that doesn't work because it doesn't stretch to enough weight, or tire width, then I also tried to make a formula to replicate the chart. In any case, the bottom line is, more load requires more pressure. Tire sidewall should provide a max safe pressure (which will be a little conservative, you can probably go 10-20% over), so you can start with that and work down. If hitting a branch or curb or pothole can cause the rim to hit, then pressure is too low, you are in danger of "snakebite" punctures. If max sidewall pressure is still not enough, then wider, higher-volume tires are needed. I see the Fuji Absolute comes with 700x28, that's only the beginning of wide tires, I'd start looking for 35.
The other concern is not tires so much as wheels, more specifically spokes. Featherlite racers like fewer spokes for (minimal) aerodynamic gains, but you (and I) need more spokes to share the load. 32 is a minimum (and should be professionally tensioned), 36 is good.
There is a famous tire pressure chart that should help you out. But if that doesn't work because it doesn't stretch to enough weight, or tire width, then I also tried to make a formula to replicate the chart. In any case, the bottom line is, more load requires more pressure. Tire sidewall should provide a max safe pressure (which will be a little conservative, you can probably go 10-20% over), so you can start with that and work down. If hitting a branch or curb or pothole can cause the rim to hit, then pressure is too low, you are in danger of "snakebite" punctures. If max sidewall pressure is still not enough, then wider, higher-volume tires are needed. I see the Fuji Absolute comes with 700x28, that's only the beginning of wide tires, I'd start looking for 35.
The other concern is not tires so much as wheels, more specifically spokes. Featherlite racers like fewer spokes for (minimal) aerodynamic gains, but you (and I) need more spokes to share the load. 32 is a minimum (and should be professionally tensioned), 36 is good.
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Dude, thanks so much for the chart RubeRad, really appreciated. I'm leaning towards the Trek at this point because of the 700x35s. I'm hoping the stock wheels hold up (have heard varying success stories), but we'll see. Surely one of the LBS around here can do a good custom build if needed.
Hopefully will be going in this weekend for test riding and possible purchase!!
Hopefully will be going in this weekend for test riding and possible purchase!!
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Back at the end of July I bought a Trek Verve 2. I weigh 265 lbs and ride street or MUPs. Here in Houston, both have cracks. Not Grand Canyon style but 1/2"-3/4" deep. The rear wheel started breaking a spoke a month. Tire pressures 70-80 psi (the upper range recommended for the tire).
After the third spoke, the LBS/dealer replaced it, at no charge, with a (Weinmann?) AC19 with butted spokes. In the meantime, I looked into the issue and the problem is fatigue. Most of the wheels are woefully under-tensioned. I bought a tension meter which arrived a day before my new wheel. As it came, the Drive Side was tensioned fairly uniformly at 80 kg, while the Non Drive Side was below the charts and estimated at 45-48 kg... After a lot of discussions with the LBS (and 200 km later) they upped the tension to 105/73 on the average. Time will tell...
Going around the LBS, I tested by hand random spoke pairs. My feeling is that most entry to mid range bikes were under-tensioned as well. Only the higher end, low spoke number wheels appeared to have significant tension in them. I don't know whether they do this to go through a break in period, or for some other reason...
After the third spoke, the LBS/dealer replaced it, at no charge, with a (Weinmann?) AC19 with butted spokes. In the meantime, I looked into the issue and the problem is fatigue. Most of the wheels are woefully under-tensioned. I bought a tension meter which arrived a day before my new wheel. As it came, the Drive Side was tensioned fairly uniformly at 80 kg, while the Non Drive Side was below the charts and estimated at 45-48 kg... After a lot of discussions with the LBS (and 200 km later) they upped the tension to 105/73 on the average. Time will tell...
Going around the LBS, I tested by hand random spoke pairs. My feeling is that most entry to mid range bikes were under-tensioned as well. Only the higher end, low spoke number wheels appeared to have significant tension in them. I don't know whether they do this to go through a break in period, or for some other reason...
Last edited by GerryinHouston; 12-03-15 at 07:34 AM. Reason: small editing