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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 01-03-18, 10:15 AM   #26
Null66
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I was 285 plus pack had a 48sp phil woods disc hub with chukker rim. Was running 48's, then down to 32's when I was 260, now at 245-ish running 28 front 32 rear and loving it.

I hate missing rides due to equipment. I hate walking.

Overbuilt? Sure but so am I.
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Old 01-07-18, 08:13 PM   #27
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I have a old Mavic 36 spoke touring rim on a Deore hub. It works and at around 300 I have no problems. Just learn to avoid smashing into stuff. I ride those rims on gravel and bad roads.
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Old 01-11-18, 01:38 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by illusiumd View Post
True this. I have to admit - riding in dense urban traffic it's sometimes impossible for me to see these things coming cause I'm too focused on car doors and pedestrians in rush hour mayhem. The bomb I hit on the A23 flatted me out. I don't know what bent the HED. I do wonder is 80psi on a 23mm rim with a Conti 4Season too low?

I think I'm going to re-purpose my old T11 hub with a new 36h Archetype and take a wheel building class.

A different question: do you need to be doing the dense urban riding on your road bike? If you're both commuting and joyriding on the same bike, maybe it's time to buy a cheap, wide-tire hybrid or old MTB with big ol' tires for the kind of urban riding where you can't dodge potholes, and save the road rims for the open road. (And pick your line, go carefully on the way out of town if you need to do urban riding on the start/finish of road rides.)

I've dented one A23 on a pothole -- it was pitch dark out, the road was a little damp and even with a good headlight I didn't spot it until it was too late to even get out of the saddle and take some of the impact on my knees. Knocked both my water bottles out of their cages. Didn't pinch flat, marvelously enough. But I chalked that up to rider error and replaced the rim. Stuff happens when you ride your bike at 3am.
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Old 02-05-18, 05:18 PM   #29
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@Bill in VA...I'm using Chinese carbon rims (from light-bicycle.com) that are 28mm wide and 46mm deep while weighing the same as the Stans Grail rims I've currently got. These will support the 32mm Compass tires really nicely, or the 35mm Compass tubeless I want to try next. The wider rim should allow the wider tires to have a better shape. The transition from tire to rim will be more aero than going all the way down to a 23 or 24mm rim, and the extra 20mm or so of depth should also improve the aerodynamics of the wheel.

I ordered Sapim CX-Sprint spokes for the front wheel, and Sapim Force spokes for the rear. The CX-Sprint spokes are just a thicker, stronger version of the aerodynamic CX-Rays, that also cost half as much. The Force spokes are the 2.0/1.8/2.18 triple-butted ones that should be stronger at the j-bend, so the rear wheel will have very robust spokes with less chance of breakage. I didn't go with the CX-Sprints for the rear wheel because whatever aero benefit they would have over round spokes is far less than they will have in the front, and the Force spokes will add some durability against breakage due to the thicker j-bend area.

The hubs I ordered are 36h White Industries CLD. I'm constantly tempted to regret not ordering the rims in 32h for the front, but I just remind myself that I'm a heavy rider (currently around 287lbs and dropping), and even when I reach my dream weight in another year or two I'll still be a heavy rider (dream weight for me right now is 220-230, realistically I'll probably not go lower than the 240s). I am sure I would have been fine with 32h for the front (the wheels I built for my previous bike have 32 spokes both front and rear and have been fine for thousands of miles), but going from 32h to 36h will add just a small amount of weight, while fulfilling my design goal of building a very tough, durable clyde wheelset.

Everyone will think this is the stupidest build they've ever seen. I don't really care. It's an idea I latched onto and then just couldn't let go until I'd tried it: can a very tough and durable wheelset be built that is superclyde-proof that also has as much aerodynamic and nice wide tire support as can be salvaged from a really tough build? ...
That build doesn't sound stupid it sounds awesome! Have you completed them yet?
The only thing I would comment on is that your tire width won't lend itself to creating an aero profile very well, but the ride quality will certainly be great. Tires can always be played with in the future though anyway- they aren't set in stone. Technically your tire shouldn't be wider than your rim for max aero effect (if should be narrower actually, but who the hell wants to ride 25's?!).

OP- Hopefully you've looked at the tire pressure calculator and upped your tire size from 23mm to something bigger.
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Old 02-07-18, 10:18 PM   #30
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I exclusively ride on Mavic Open Pros with Ultegra hubs and have for the last 12 years. I broke one spoke on the rear of my first set due to it getting over tensioned by a shop that didnít know what they were doing. You can pick up a set from Performance Bike for around $350. By far the best wheels IMO.
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Old 02-11-18, 02:08 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by illusiumd View Post
Looking for advice on new rear wheel build - rim brake - non-disc. I'm weighing about 240 these days and have a terrible habit of hitting nasty potholes/curbs. Had the Velocity A23 36H laced to WI T11 - destroyed that rim over about two years.

Then did HED C2 32H laced to Ultegra in May of 2016. Just bent that - so LBS says I have about a couple months left on the HED.

Any other rims besides the Dyad, A719, or Archetype - that I should be looking at? Anyone had experience with Kinlin? Was looking at the Kinlin XR31...
Covet skinny tire road wheels, and XXxl MAMIL? you pinch flat and have rims damaged hitting potholes..?

Physics may be against you..

you may want to consider a bike with clearances for wider tires.. the now popular Gravel bike.. 700-42

Sort of a lower BB 'cross bike',, then you have a bit more air cushion between the rim and that pothole..

I toured with 700-35 tires, full solo self contained load, so my 200+#, + tent, bag clothes etc.
rims Mavic Mod 4, (tandem stuff) 40 /48 spoke F/R..


Others may offer solutions to keep your road bike .. I rarely ride mine any more ..








..
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Old 02-14-18, 01:23 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by pdlamb View Post
If you're breaking wheels riding over curbs, maybe you should look at bigger wheels; the kind that take 4" tires. I doubt it's your weight that's causing problems, just your riding habits.
I agree about ditching your riding habits. Anything mechanical can be broken. Buying "Better wheels" will just drain your wallet - and the wheels will still break.

FWIW, I have driven by touring bike since 2006 in the outback of Australia and have hit rocks etc. Both wheels are still fine. I use PW 48 spoke hubs and a 26" double walled rim (cannot remember the name - something like Dyno-Lite). The spokes are not butted and are laced 4X. Schrader (spelling??) valves. Tires are Schwalbe Marathon versions.
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