Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
Reload this Page >

CUBE TOWN PRO for a 6' 4"" 330 LBS Clyde

Notices
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

CUBE TOWN PRO for a 6' 4"" 330 LBS Clyde

Old 11-23-19, 12:28 PM
  #1  
BANANAJACK
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
CUBE TOWN PRO for a 6' 4"" 330 LBS Clyde

Dear friends of the forum Do you think the CUBE TOWN PRO bike would be a good candidate for a Clyde (beloved myself) 6 '4 "and 320 LBS?
BANANAJACK is offline  
Old 12-02-19, 03:06 PM
  #2  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,665
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 485 Post(s)
Liked 130 Times in 96 Posts
Yes, it should be good.

A couple things to keep in mind:

You will need the 62cm size. This is the largest size they make, according to the Cube website. Many bike shops do not appreciate the challenge of getting tall riders fitted properly to their bike, and will try to persuade you to buy whatever they have in stock, even if the fit isn't ideal.

The weak point will be the wheels, specifically the rear wheel, and specifically specifically the spokes in the rear wheel. Either get the shop where you buy it, or find a wheel builder, to bring up the tension in the spokes.. Loose spokes, and spokes that loosen over the first 50 or 100km, are the first step leading to broken spokes.

The Shimano Nexus hubs are very good quality and are crazily easy to adjust, but it is important to keep them adjusted. The adjustment can usually be done in about 2 minutes by setting cable tension with the barrel adjuster on the shift lever so that two marks line up on the rear hub when you are in (I think) 4th gear. If there is any grinding or popping out of gear the insides of the hub will wear out more quickly, so learn to do this adjustment.

Also pay attention to any looseness or rattling in the wheel hubs and cranks and headset. Bearings need to be kept in adjustment to ensure they have a long life.

It is possible that the suspension fork and suspension seatpost that come with the bike are not suitable for someone your size. It's not really a big problem except you should realize they might be close to bottomed out and have little function during your regular use. The bike shop will likely have a rigid seatpost they can swap in to give you one less thing to worry about, but swapping a fork is a bigger ask, if they even have an appropriate rigid fork to install..
There is possibly a 'preload' adjuster on the suspension fork that might get it closer to being useful for you.
For these reasons I would also consider, if I were you, keep looking for a bike without suspension bits for the same reason.
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 12-06-19, 12:52 AM
  #3  
tallbikeman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yolo County, West Sacramento CA
Posts: 133

Bikes: Modified 26 inch frame Schwinn Varsity with 700c wheels and 10 speed cassette hub. Ryan Vanguard recumbent. 67cm 27"x1 1/4" Schwinn Sports Tourer from the 1980's.

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 15 Posts
I went through a phase of having Shimano IGH hubs on at least one bicycle. I started with a 7 speed coaster model which worked very well on a little used bicycle. I then progressed to a 7 speed model with Shimano's hub brake, not the disc model. After a couple of years of regular use around town the hub started having shifting problems. I then got real good at taking the hub apart and properly lubing the interior which helped. Eventually a couple of years later the little tiny bits that actually shift between the gears failed and the hub was junk. I then bought an 11 speed Alfine model and it wore out even sooner. It never would hold its oil properly and had to be topped on a regular basis. Eventually after a couple of years the hub started pulling hard and wouldn't shift right. I couldn't find any bicycle mechanic that wanted to work on it. I eventually replaced that hub with a 10 speed cassette hub/derailleur and have been very happy with it. I'm now out of the IGH hub market and am staying out. I'm 6ft 5in and weigh above 220lbs forever. Mr. Laurier is absolutely right in bringing up the proper fit deal for us big guys. I ride frames that are 66cm and above. I put 13/14 guage spokes on the cassette side of my rear 36 hole wheels. I use 180mm cranks because my legs work better with that size. I use pedal extenders so I can get my whole shoe onto the pedal and not hit my ankle bones on the crank. I love 29inch wide flat bars which don't look out of place given my size. If you have lots of money there are bicycle manufacturers that cater just to us with 36inch wheelsets, 225mm cranks, frames and components rated to above your weight. In my case I get old steel 10-12 speeds off of Craigslist and set them up myself for use. This cuts the cost way down and provides perfectly adequate bicycles for what I do. They made very large mass made bicycles in the late 70's and 80's and these are now cheap used bicycles. I'm not sold on the idea that a 62cm bicycle would fit you properly without modification. Good luck in finding your bicycle.
tallbikeman is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.